Beyond the Limits: A Woman ’s Triumph on Everest. Stacy Allison with Peter Carlin. Little Brown & Company, Boston. 1993.What can you say about a book promoting Everest as “the world’s most challenging mountain” and which provides a rare close-...
Thunder Mountain, Paikea's Journey, and Mt. Providence, Divine Providence. Jeremy “Jay” Piggott of New Zealand and I based ourselves and friends on the southwest fork of the Tokositna Glacier during the last two weeks of May. We completed alpine-s...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. An expedition from Bergamo led by Augusto Zanotti made the third ascent of the Kinshofer route on the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat. They were three weeks on the mountain and established four camps. They found ladders and ...
After a first visit to the area in 2008 (see AAJ 2009), Robin Collins (Australia), Geoff Bonney (UK), Paul Walker (UK), my wife Sandy, Willem-B Stern (Netherlands/Switzerland), and I returned to the fine mountains of Paul Stern Land. The combined ...
THE EARLY-JUNE clouds finally part after two weeks of drizzly, miserable weather in the Ruth Gorge. Like clockwork Doug Geeting flies in with another hopeful group, allowing Mike Helms and me to depart. Maybe we can get above these depressing clou...
SYLVANUS JOHN EBERT1907-1996John Ebert, founder of the Iowa Mountaineers, Inc., was one of the great legacies in American mountaineering. While living in the heartland of the Midwest, in the middle of silos and cornfields, 800 miles from the close...
Dhaulagiri Attempt and New Route up the East Face. Marjan Kregar, Andrej Štremfelj, Dr. Iztok Tomazin and I planned to climb a new route to the right of the Kurtyka-MacIntyre route on Dhaulagiri’s 3500-meter-high east face alpine-style, reaching t...
Parón, Bartonellosis to summit mushroom. Owen Samuel, Mike Pescod, Tony Barton, and I set off up the Santa Cruz Valley on June 2, two days after arriving in Peru. We set up a camp at 4,700m on the moraine ridge below the northeast face of Artesonr...
The Central Howser SpireDAVID BERNAYSOn a spectacular camp on a rock island on the height of land between Pigeon Spire and the Howser massif, Dr. George Austin, James McCarthy, John Rupley and I assembled on the evening of August 7, planning our a...
Foraker, Northeast Ridge Attempt. Our party consisted of Louis Blöchlinger, Roger Habersaat, Remo Leiggener, Hans Ruedi Läogli, Swiss, and George Menard and me, Americans. We began on May 19 from the southeast fork of the Kahiltna and reached the ...
Shivling, West Ridge and Northeast Face. Boštjan Kekec, Rupar Uroš, Damjan Vidmar, Aco Pepelnik and I got to Base Camp at Tapovan on September 3, but on the 7th I left for New Delhi. I returned with food on September 13. Meanwhile Uroš and Kekec h...
Direct Southwest Face of Yosemite Valley’s El CapitanEdward CooperIN THE history of mountaineering the climbing developments in Yosemite Valley are uniquely and wholly American. Nowhere in the world has climbing advanced so far in so little time. ...
Tsaranoro Be, east face, Old Master. A seven-member Slovak team visited the Tsaranoro massif. In six days of climbing, during August 27-31 and September 3-4, Dusan Beranek and Richard Nyeki put up a new route, Old Master, on the east face of Tsara...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST,INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsOn July 14,1986, Steve Adkison (24), Abigail Mackey (21), Nicola Rotberg (20), Andrew Lewis (20), Herminio Delgado (21), and Alicia Zbehlik (22) set out to climb the ...
New Facts About Early Wyoming AscentsOrrin H. BonneyAn adventure into exciting new information spurred research for the Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas. (Reviewed in this issue.—Editor.)It soon became apparent that Fremont and ...
WHEN KENT MENEGHIN, Glenn Randall, Joe Kaelin, and I planned a route on Mount Huntington (12,240 feet), we wanted to keep pace with the trend in Alaskan climbing towards fast, lightweight ascents. Few of the routes being pioneered today could b...
Rakaposhi Attempt. We had hoped to make the first ascent of the east ridge of Rakaposhi. In 1985, Austrians led by Edi Koblmüller climbed to the east summit (7010 meters, 23,000 feet) via the north spur. Before we arrived, Japanese attempted the c...
The Rocky Mountains: A Vision for Artists in the Nineteenth Century. Patricia Trenton and Peter H. Hassrick. University of Oklahoma Press, Norman, in association with the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, Cody, Wyoming, 1983. XIX + 418 pages, 129 bl...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. Sixteen new members during the year brought the total membership to 140. Ten local outings were held from April through October with attendance of 273 members and 200 guests. During the outing period, the Iowa Mountain...
West Face of the South Tower of Howser SpireFred BeckeyOne of the great mysteries in the Bugaboos has been the west faces of the Howser Spires, which are not only the most magnificent walls in the range but are on the highest and most alpine peaks...