The Friends of the Western Mountains is an informal organization, founded in 1926, to stimulate greater interest in and appreciation of the scenic beauty of the mountain regions of the western United States. Members receive a yearly series of pict...
Fremont Peak. The usual route on Fremont Peak starts from a high col on the southwest buttress which separates the drainage of the lakes below (west of) Indian Pass from that of the main Titcomb Valley. Several hundred feet east of this col is a p...
Mount Elbrus, Lower Dongasorun, North Face Ascent and Descent by Snowboard. In mid-May our Russian guide Misha (who was along as much for his mastery of the language as his knowledge of Elbrus), Wade McKay, and I made an ascent of Lower Dongasorun...
Ice Climbing Near Valdez. An explosion of activity in climbing new routes resulted from good ice conditions and increasing interest by locals and visitors, stimulated by the preparation of a guidebook to the area. Starting in early November, by th...
Illimani. A traverse of the three peaks of Illimani was made by three Argentines of the Club Andino de Mendoza, Guillermo Vieiro, Ulises Sila Vitale, Rafael Juarey, together with Ernesto Sánchez, a member of the Club Andino Boliviano. Climbing the...
Mt. McKinley, West Buttress, Patience for Purity. On June 12 and 13 Robert Adams and I climbed a new 3,500' route (Patience for Purity, Alaska Grade IV, 5.9 AI85°) on the western end of the west buttress of Denali. After an eight-day storm, which ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXHAUSTIONWashington, Mount IndexMichael Welch (28), a Seattle climber, died January 11, 1981, in a fall from a rock wall near Index, Snohomish County authorities said.Welch was climbing without ropes with his older...
Nun. Eighteen of a 27-man team of the Indian Border Security Force, led by Lieutenant Colonel Prithipal Singh Cheema reached the top of Nun (23,410 feet) in two waves on June 25 and 27 via the north ridge. Six of them skied down the northeast face...
Manaslu, Ascents and Tragedies. Peter Sperka, an experienced mountaineer and ski alpinist from the High Tatras, organized the Slovak expedition to Manaslu (8163m). They had bad weather and conditions. In spite of this, they pitched Camp III at 740...
Lichtenberg Mountain, Northeast Ridge. With mountain bikes offering quick access, Jens Kuljurgis and I made a one-day excursion of this climb. The route began on the west comer of the ridge, where we encountered an awkward (narrow) body jam in hal...
TABLE I Reported Mountaineering AccidentsYearNumber of Accidents Reported U.S.A.-CAN.Total Number of Persons Involved U.S.A.-CAN.InjuredU.S.A.-CAN.KilledU.S.A.-CAN.19511421103195229321713195324271412195431413181955343929131956467151181957455328181...
P 6486. On April 29 Marty Corcoran and I snowshoed from the Glenn Highway 10 miles up still frozen Granite Creek. After checking out the peaks up one of the east forks of Granite Creek, on May 3 I soloed P 6486 for a first ascent.Larry Swanson, Mo...
Nilkantha, Garhwal. An Indian expedition finally succeeded in climbing beautiful 21,640-foot Nilkantha, which had repulsed seven previous attempts, including Willi Unsoeld’s try in 1949. (A.A.J., 1956, 10:1, pp. 75-80.) The expedition was under th...
Cerro Standhardt, Northwest Ridge, Aguja Innominata, Corallo Route, and Cerro Torre, Compressor Route. Timothy O’Neill and Nathan Martin climbed the Corallo Route (V 5.11) on Innominata on January 12 with Bruno Sourzac; the Northwest Ridge (V 5.11...
Nusatsum, Bella Coola Region, Coast Range. In June Ed McClanahan and 1 made a new route on Nusatsum. (First ascent, 1952, by W. and D. Long, R. Skinner.) We ascended the 6500-foot-high north couloir, 4000 feet of it ice with a tricky little icefal...
New Hampshire, Joe English Hill. On 16 April, a New England College instructor (Mr. Dan H. Allen), three students and one non-student were climbing together at Joe English Hill in New Boston, New Hampshire. The three students were ascending one of...
HYPOTHERMIA, HEART FAILUREBaffin Island, Auyuittuq National ParkOn August 25, 1985, a man (42) was hiking alone. What transpired during the day is not known, but when he arrived at Overlord Campground in the evening, he was wet, shivering, and had...
Land of Tempest: Travels in Patagonia, 1958-1962, by Eric Shipton. 224 pages, 1 colored frontispiece, 24 black & white pictures, 3 maps. New York: E. P. Dutton, 1963. Price $5.95.This is a fascinating account of exploratory mountaineering in P...
Wawona Dome. West Face. In full view of the Yosemite south entrance highway, close to Wawona Village, the dome’s face had no true routes. On October 14, 1970, Larry Moore, Bob Romanowitz, and I started up the obvious chimney in mid-face. Despite g...
A Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada, by J. Monroe Thorington. Sixth edition, with the collaboration of William Lowell Putnam, xx + 381 pages, one route diagram and a four-page key map of the 1:50,000 quadrangles. New York: American ...