Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest Attempt

Everest Attempt. Belgian Karl Huyberechts attempted to climb the South Col route on Everest solo. He got to 8500 meters on May 8 but had to turn back from there because of problems with his oxygen equipment.Elizabeth Hawley


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Russia, Siberia, Czarsky Tron, Southwest Wall, New Route

Czarsky Tron, southwest wall, new route. In February 2003 a team from Krasnoyarsk climbed a new route on the southwest face of Czarsky Tron (Czar’s Throne, 2,500m) located in the Kodar Range, Eastern Siberia. The temperature on the arrival at base...


Book Reviews AAJ
White Limbo: The First Australian Climb of Mt. Everest

White Limbo: The First Australian Climb of Mt. Everest. Lincoln Hall. Kevin Weldon, McMahons Point, 1985. 262 pages, color photographs, route diagrams, map, glossary. $40.00 (US).The rich and varied lore of mountaineering literature devoted to Mou...


Accident Reports ANAM
Inadequate Belay, Fall on Rock, Idaho, City of Rocks National Reserve, Parking Lot Rock

INADEQUATE BELAY, FALL ON ROCKIdaho, City of Rocks National Reserve, Parking Lot RockOn August 19 Jeff Everett (49) was lowered off the end of his seventy-meter rope on “Delay of the Game.”He fell at least 20-30 meters, impacting ledges and a Maho...


Accident Tables ANAM
Table II

TABLE IIGeographical DistrictsAccidents1947-19541955Atlantic States—North 141South20 Central — 2 Colorado 324Utah 40Wyoming 193Montana & Idaho 61Arizona & Nevada 50California 234 Oregon 173Washin...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak

FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, NO HARD HAT Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn February 3, 1993, at 1200, Carl Siegel (30) and Tim Cumbo (35) were descending the Cables (North Face) Route on Longs Peak after having successfu...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Italy, Alps, Grosse Zinne

Grosse Zinne. The north face of this forbidding pillar, one of the most impossible looking walls in the Dolomites, has at last succumbed to the “hardware” technique that in the Eastern Alps goes under the name of rock-climbing. A number of attempt...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Everest Attempt via the Japanese Couloir

Everest Attempt via the Japanese Couloir. An Italian expedition led by Giuseppe Pozzoli was unable to climb the north face of Everest. They got to 7000 meters in the Japanese Couloir on September 29.Elizabeth Hawley


Accident Reports ANAM
Georgia, Cliff in Vicinity of Camp Wahsega near Dahlonega

Georgia, Cliff in vicinity of Camp Wahsega near Dahlonega—On 23 November, Robert D. Bridger (21), a Ranger student participating in scheduled training fell to his death. He was riding down on a suspension traverse constructed of a one inch manila,...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall, Inadequate Equipment, Exposure—Alaska, Mt. McKinley

FALL, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXPOSURE.—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Joe Ebner (28), Richard Rose (41), Bill Joiner (25), and Larry Fanning (28) were members of a six-person expedition climbing Mount McKinley via the Pioneer Ridge Route. The party left Won...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Nuptse, North Face, The Crystal Snake

Nuptse, north face, The Crystal Snake. In terms of high-standard technical ascents at altitude the highlight of the season was the new route on the north face of Nuptse by Argentinean guides, Damian and Willie Benegas.The brothers made their first...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Istor-O-Nal North Attempt

Istor-O-Nal North Attempt. We had hoped to climb Istor-O-Nal North (7373 meters, 24,190 feet) by the Lapuch route. The members were Germans Kurt Bartenschlager, Gerhard Grassl, Eckard Kunze, Norbert Pfab, Austrians Erich Bosina, Adolf Deichstetter...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Russell Attempts, 1980 and 1981

Mount Russell Attempts, 1980 and 1981. In May 1980 Dave Pahlke and I attempted the northwest ridge of Mount Russell (11,670 feet). The route was too dangerous and was abandoned at about 9300 feet due to poor ice and constant exposure to avalanches...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded Due to Shoulder Dislocation, Alberta, Mount Louis

STRANDED DUE TO SHOULDER DISLOCATION Alberta, Mount LouisOn August 10, G.G. and G.B. were beginning the exit pitches on the summit tower of Mount Louis. They were attempting the classic Perren Variation (5.7). While starting to lead the first pitc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
India, Himachal Pradesh, Spiti, A Review of the Mountains Near the Head of the Pare Chu

A review of the mountains near the head of the Pare Chu. The Pare Chu lies northeast of the Spiti River, not far from the Indo-Tibet border. Since 1995 it has been easy for foreign mountaineers to gain access to the areas west of the Spiti River, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Tilitso Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt

Tilitso Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt. Tilitso (7134 meters, 23,405 feet) was successfully climbed by three expeditions in the fall. All were by the northeast spur to the north ridge. Led by Hubert Fritzenwallner, a group of 9 Austrians complet...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Ancohuma, Various Ascents

Ancohuma, Various Ascents. The Joint Services Expedition to the Andes (JSE Andes ‘95) took place in Bolivia from April 25 to June 14, 1995. The expedition combined mountaineering in the Cordillera Real with physiological research and hang-gliding....


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Chilean Patagonia, Cuerno Norte, Caveman Route

Cuerno Norte, Caveman Route. In the French Valley, Americans Ted Bonetti and Steve Schneider made the second ascent of Caveman, a mostly free 1,500-foot climb on the northwest buttress of Cuerno Norte, confirming the excellent quality of the climb...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nepal Himalayas, Various Ascents, and Elizabeth Hawley's Law of Economic Development

Nepal Himalaya, Various Ascents, and Elizabeth Hawley’s Law of Economic Development. This season saw more teams from southeast Asia than ever before, although they are not yet coming in large numbers. Over the years, as countries have become more ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu, South Face

Manaslu, South Face. An expedition of guides of the German Alpine Club (DAV) Mountain and Ski School had hoped to climb the unascended south ridge of Manaslu. They had Base Camp at 13,125 feet. They climbed a rock buttress to establish Camp I at 1...