Api, ascent. This rarely visited 7132m peak was climbed on October 6 and 8 by five members of Ayumi Nozawai’s six-man Japanese team. The climbers, all members of the Barbarian Club, established base camp at 4000m in the Api Khola and then repeated...
Broad Peak North. Our expedition of firemen from Tarragona took twelve days to get to Base Camp at 4900 meters, having difficulties with the porters and the sirdar. The route we took was a repeat of that climbed by Poles Kurtyka and Kukuczka in 19...
Draupadi-Ka-Danda and Jaonli Ascents and Tragedy. A 29-member Japanese team to Draupadi-Ka-Danda and Jaonli was led by Yoshiki Yamanaka. There were four instructors and the rest were divided into a basic course and an advanced one. Their original ...
Mountaineers. At the time of going to press, we have unfortunately received no summary of the year 1948 from the Mountaineers, Inc. On the basis of evidence to be found in other communications, one surmises that excellent proof of continued activi...
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. The Blue Ridge Section reorganized in 1986 with the election of new officers. The Section wishes to extend its invitation to other Club members to take advantage of our location in “Lobby City, U.S.A.,” for pursuing cli...
Baruntse in the Post-Monsoon. Baruntse (7129 meters, 23,389 feet) continues to be one of the most popular peaks in Nepal. In the autumn seven expeditions climbed or attempted the peak, all but one on the normal southeast ridge. The expeditions, le...
Zang Brakk, Czech Start Canadian Pinish. I was coming to the end of my summer guiding season in the Alps when I applied for the John Lauchlan Award to pursue my dream of exploring new routes in the Karakoram. After Lilla Molnar—a good friend and s...
Igdlorssuit Havn Tower, West Face, Ujarak. Five climbers from Croatia (Boris Cujic, Darko Dular and Vladimir Pausic) and Slovenia (Miha Kajzelj, Igor Kalan) climbed in Igdlorssuit Havn, in south Greenland, from July 23 to August 8. We made a first...
Denali: Deception, Defeat and Triumph (Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2001; hardbound, $38) collects the works of Frederick Cook, Belmont Browne, and Hudson Stuck—“the stories of the fake, the almost, and the actual first ascent”—together in one...
Huascarán Norte, Northeast Buttress Variant, 1980. On June 21, 1980 J-M. Boucansaud and I completed a variant of the French route of 1973 led by Maurice Barrard on the lovely northeast buttress of Huascarán Norte. The first three rope-lengths were...
Johnson Mountain, West Face, Mojo Rising. Located on the left-hand side of Johnson Mountain, Mojo Rising (IV/V 5.10 A1, 9 pitches, 3 bolts) was first climbed in April by Dave Littman and I. It climbs the obvious and vertical crack system that term...
FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTION, RAPPEL FAILURENew Hampshire, Whitehorse LedgeOn January 31, Clin Cummins (21) was leading the second pitch of a vertical icicle which then ascends 80 feet up a slab of 60-degree ice. He fell 200 feet to the base ...
Chaukhamba II, Northwest Ridge. A nine-member Korean expedition, led by Nam Ki Chang, climbed Chaukhamba II (7068 m), which is situated at the head of the Gangotri Glacier, on May 14 via a new route on the northwest ridge. Summitters were Cho Chul...
McGinnis Peak, East Face, Hayes Range. “Cutthroat Couloir” forms the right comer of the east face of McGinnis Peak with the southeast ridge on its left side. Our ascent of the peak by Cutthroat Couloir may be the most difficult climb yet done in t...
Kang Guru, Southwest Ridge. Our expedition, made up of Yoshichiko Segi, Daizo Yamamoto, Hiruyasu Sugita, Kenji Murata, Seiki Iwabuchi, Ryuomaru Iwabuchi, Dr. Tadahiko Wada and me as leader, made the third ascent of Kang Guru by a new route, the so...
Jichu Drake, or Tsherim Kang. Although our permission was for a 7000-meter peak, on the summit our altimeter showed about 6800 meters. (In communication with the Editor, Bhutanese authorities gave the altitude as 6790 meters or 22,277 feet.—Editor...
Rakaposhi. Before 1958 Rakaposhi (25,550 feet) was attempted by six expeditions, the most recent of which was the joint Anglo-American expedition of 1956. (A.A.J., 1957, 10:2, pp. 54-63.) The British-Pakistani Forces Himalayan Expedition 1958 was ...
Cerro Mascara, The Magic Carpet Ride. During the months of January and February, 1999, Conny Amelunxen and I completed the first ascent of the 800-meter east face of The Mummer (Cerro Mascara) in the Bader Valley of Torres del Paine in Chile. This...
“Leaning Tower,” Jemez Mountains. Though they appear relatively gentle from the distance, the Jemez Mountains have many canyons, towers and crags and offer many climbing possibilities. In the Las Conchas area, rhyolite crags rise as high as 200 f...
Cerro Natividad and Other Ascents, 1990-1. On March 19, 1990, four Argentine climbers led by Antonio Beorchia made the second ascent of the highest point of the Cordon de Manrique (5026 meters, 16,490 feet). On the summit, Boerchia found pieces of...