Bhrigupanth, Southeast Face. It was reported that Karel Stkora led an eight-man expedition from the Czech Republic that successfully climbed Bhrigupanth (6772 m) on September 27 via the southeast face. (High Mountain Sports 174)
Moose’s Tooth Attempt and Barrille, 1984, In April 1984, Dave Jones and I spent ten days in the Ruth Gorge. We first explored variations for reaching the lower snowfields of the German route on the Moose’s Tooth. On the southern face above the ice...
FALL INTO CREVASSEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabasca GlacierNear noon on May 9, 1982, Peter Aitchison (39), Dorland Brown (31) and Everett Fee (36) (all experienced in mountain touring) were skiing up the middle of the Athabasca Glacier in the Ca...
Mount Stuart, Lost Planet Airmen. Between the northwest face and north ridge on Mount Stuart lie several pitches of superb crack and slab climbing. On June 27, Tobin Kelly and I climbed through small séracs just left of the northwest-face route an...
Boola Boola Buttress, Black Velvet. On our fall’s first foray into the obscure and unknown, on August 16 Jens Holsten and I explored the exceedingly featured granite of Boola Boola Buttress. Unable to locate the 1984 Jim Yoder route, due to a vagu...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. A nine-man Austrian expedition led by Adolf Huber attempted the standard route, the northeast ridge. They placed three camps and reached 22,650 feet on September 26. Then came a four-day storm that destroyed so much equipment a...
Kilimanjaro, Breach Icicle. On July 21 Scott Fischer and Wes Krause completed the first American ascent of the Breach Icicle (the Breach Wall Direct) on Kilimanjaro. The only other ascent was made in 1978 by Reinhold Messner and K. Renzler.
Mrigthuni. An Indian expedition made the first ascent of 22,490-foot Mrigthuni on the southern rim of the Nanda Devi basin in Garhwal. On June 19 Gurdial Singh (leader), Aamir Ali, Rajendra Vikram Singh, and two Garhwali porters reached the summit...
Mount Everest, North-Northeast Face, New Route. In May, a Russian team led by Sergei Antipine from Krasnojarsk, Siberia, made an ascent of Mount Everest by the north-northeast couloir to the left of the classical route via the North Col. This new ...
Altitude of Vinson Massif . The original elevation was established in the early 1960s by using photoalidade techniques based on altimeter elevations. At that time, the elevation was found to be 5140 meters or 16,863 feet. During the 1979-80 field ...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPEDWyoming, TetonsOn August 11, 1982, Randall Melvin (32) was a student in an ice-climbing seminar on the Teton Glacier. Melvin had just completed climbing a belayed ice pitch and was traversing, unroped, across a six-met...
Escudo, North Face, Bukowski Route. Our original goal was the striking north pillar of Escudo. In 30 days, Jack Lewis and I managed only seven pitches on the pillar because of continual bad weather. High winds cut through one of our fixed ropes an...
West of Knud Rasmussen Land, first ascents. A Brathay Exploration Group (U.K.) expedition, comprising Peter Clutton-Brock, Miles Doughty, Anna Griffith, Gavin Henderson, Thomas Moorcroft, Andrew and James Watson, and Paul Williams (leader), climbe...
FALL ON ICE, ILLNESSNew Hampshire, Stairs MountainOn November 24, 1984, Rob Walker (27) and Matt Peer had walked six kilometers to a remote ice climb on Stairs Mountain. After ascending twelve meters unroped, Walker apparently fainted as he was tr...
FALLING ROCK–DISLODGEDColorado, McCurdy State Park, BlockbusterMy partner was injured while climbing a route near “Blockbuster” on September 9. A loose block (about 6x6x4 feet) pulled while he was following. He struck his knee on the way down. Tha...
Split Mountain, “Horseshoe Arête.” While climbing Middle Palisade, Cameron Burns and I noticed a massive ridge coming off P 13,803, curving west, northwest and finally north, encircling Lake 11,599 and forming a huge north- facing bowl. In late Au...
Upuigma Tepui, Nido del Tiric-tiric. In February, after flying from Santa Elena der Uruyen to the Pemmon village of Yunek, two days’ walk took us to base camp. Then Kurt Albert, Bernd Arnold, Ivan Calderon, and I opened Nido del Tiric-tiric (350m,...
FALL ON ROCKColorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Escape ArtistA 37-year-old climber fell yesterday afternoon (October 23) at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park while ascending the Escape Artist route on the North Rim wall. Nearby cl...
Alpamayo to north ridge, Sensations of History. On August 8 the Catalans Josep Escruela and Tino Tain climbed the gully to the right of the Ferrari Route. From the Alpamayo-Quitaraju pass they reached the start of the Spanish-Chilean Route, subseq...
California: (2) Devil's Slide, near San Francisco. On 24 September 1950 Harry E. Bates, 46, of Oakland, fell 75 feet to his death while trying to climb down the sheer face of this sea cliff. He had climbed about 20 feet down the side when he sudde...