New York, Shawangunks. On 12 November, Matt Hale and Kevin Bein (18) were doing a climb named “Sultana.” They had finished one pitch and Bein set off to lead the second, while Hale belayed on a ledge about 20 feet off the ground. Bein clipped thro...
FALLING ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RedoubtOn August 25, 1985, three highly experienced climbers were ascending a chimney on the west face of Mt. Redoubt. About 12 meters above a belay station, the leader dislodged a large boulder, raining...
A Climber’s Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia by William Lowell Putnam, based on previous editions by J. Monroe Thorington. Fourth Edition. New York: American Alpine Club, 1963. xvii + 248 pages, 16 plates. Price $4.50 ($3.50 to mem...
Kolana Rock, North Face. On Memorial Day weekend, Warren Harding and I made the first ascent of this 1800-foot face in Hetch Hetchy Valley. An attempt in March had failed after three awkward aid pitches, a bivouac, and an oncoming storm. We left o...
A Climber’s Guide to the High Sierra, edited by Hervey H. Voge. Second edition. San Francisco, Sierra Club. 298 pages, 16 glossy prints, 33 sketches. Price $4.75.The second edition of this Climber’s Guide is a basic necessity in the library of all...
Minus Three, by Gene Mason, Englewood Cliffs, N.J.: Prentice-Hall, Inc., 1970. 190 pages, 12 color photos. $7.95.Dr. Gene Mason, specialist in anesthesiology at an Everett, Washington, hospital, writes this personal account of his ascents of the h...
Mountaineering In Scotland, by W. H. Murray. 8vo., xii, 252 pp., 31 photographic illustrations, 5 maps. New York, 1948: The Macmillan Company. Price, $4.50.None of the Scottish mountains rises much above 4000 feet, and their average elevation is c...
Attempts on Saraghrar and Other Peaks. The Bayerland section of the German Alpine Club (DAV) was led by Heinz Köbrich, and further composed of Erich Griessl, Walter Kellermann, Sepp Rieser, Jürgen Vogt and Fritz Widerer. Not receiving permission f...
Nuptse, Southeast Buttress Winter Attempt. Americans Jeff Lowe and Marc Twight did not get quite as high on their buttress in the winter as they had last spring. This winter they abandoned their climb after reaching 6700 meters on December 31. The...
Ojos del Salado, El Solo and other peaks. A joint expedition by the Polish Academic Speleological Club and the Federatión de Andinismo de Chile chose the massif of Ojos del Salado to carry out a program of climbing and scientific research. The gro...
FALL ON ROCK–LOWERING ERROR, COMMUNICATION PROBLEMUtah, Big Cottonwood CanyonOn June 16, Doug Grennan (18) and eight friends were top-roping sport climbs in the upper S-Curves area of Big Cottonwood Canyon. Doug was climbing a 5.10 route on the ri...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club membership has grown to 1200. Once again the year was an unusually active one. Many of our courses and mountain camps were again offered for credit by the University of Iowa. Under the instruction of John and Jim Ebert,...
Torre Norte del Paine, 1989. In October and November of 1989, John Catto and I traveled to Chilean Patagonia to attempt the Central and North Paine Towers. On October 26, we established our Base Camp at the traditional Campo Italiano in perfect we...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT Wisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn June 18, 1987, Jon Currie (24) was climbing Berkeley when he fell from 12 meters. His foot became entangled in his harness, which caused him to turn upside down....
Broad Peak Attempt. A French expedition led by Michael Vincent and composed of Yves Astier, François Rebuffet, Jean-Claude Chaix, Marc Donzelle and André Berthet unsuccessfully attempted Broad Peak. Astier made a solo attempt from May 28 to June 2...
Tragedy on Chopicalqui. Three German climbers, S. Tilman, Ulrich Bernard and D. Albrecht, were swept to their deaths by a windslab avalanche down the northern slopes from near the summit of Chopicalqui.
Bífida, Ridge Between Cuatro Dedos and Bífida, and Cerro Grande. Gerold Dünser and I were based at the Bridwell Camp near Laguna Torre from January 20 to March 24. Our objective was to climb the Egger-Maestri route on Cerro Torre, but knowing how ...
Mount Fairchild, Honcho Boncho Buttress, Rocky Mountain National Park, 1992 and 1994. On June 20, 1992, Doug Byerly and I climbed a new line on the Honcho Boncho Buttress (east cirque) of Mount Fairchild. Power Struggle ascended the prominent dihe...
FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Petit GreponOn July 6, 1991, at 1200, Mike Dobry (24) took a lead fall on the 5.8 crux of the South Face of Petit Grepon in Rocky Mountain National Park. He sustained an open...
STRANDED, FATIGUE, INEXPERIENCE, PARTY SEPARATED Quebec, Old Stoneham CliffsLate on August 22, 1993, Benoit L. (24) and Stephan G. (25) decided to climb Old Stoneham bluff, and started up with minimal equipment that included a rope, flashlight, an...