Ellesmere Island, Barbeau Peak and Various Ascents. In June, an expedition to Ellesmere Island made a rare ascent of Barbeau Peak, highest point in the Canadian Arctic, and cleared up some confusion concerning its location. The eight-man party was...

Thorndike Peaks, Ellesmere Island, North West Territories. This expedition, sponsored by the Explorers Club (Flag #200), operated during May in the Thorndike Peaks, south of the entrance to Makinson Inlet, on the east coast of Ellesmere Island. Th...

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Stawamus ChiefJim Brennan (20) and Bruce Macdonald, both experienced climbers, were climbing Uncle Ben’s route (5.8, A3) on Stawamus Chief on August 1, 1983. They were nearing t...

West Mendenhall Tower, Great White Conqueror. In March, with the help of a Mugs Stump Award, my new friend Sam Magro and I went looking for steep ice and mixed lines on the north side of the Mendenhall Towers. After we arrived the weather fell apa...

FALL ON ICEAlberta, Kananaskis Country, 2-Low 4-ZeroOn December 3,1 took a leader fall. The fall was a result of a left-hand tool plant shearing off a substantial block of very brittle ice while I was placing the other tool. The left tool proceede...

Manaslu Tragedy. A heavy blow struck the Croatian Manaslu expedition from Yugoslavia led by Vinko Marevec when on April 24 Nejc (Jernej) Zaplotnik and Ante Bucan were killed in an avalanche of rock and ice. Their companion, Srecko Gregov was badly...

Mount McKinley, Northwest Face of the West Buttress. A full article on this climb appears earlier in this Journal.

Selected Poems on West Penwith and Reflections, by Arthur Westlake Andrews. Foreword by Geoffrey Winthrop Young. Vol. 1 (Vol. 2 in preparation). Tregerthen, St. Ives, Cornwall: published by the author, 1957. (Obtainable from John W. Saundry, Chape...

Annapurna II Attempt. This two-man Japanese team, Kunihiko Kondo and Kazuo Yamamoto, attempted the south face of Annapurna II with no fixed camps or Sherpas. They gave up on October 13 at 7500 meters because of the dangers of the route, which incl...

Colque Cruz I, I Am Dynamite; Peak Bethia, possible first ascent. On August 2 Alistair Gurney and I made the first ascent of the southwest face of Colque Cruz I (6,102m) in Peru’s remote Cordillera Vilcanota. Our route up the icy 650m face, I Am D...

Yarydag, New Route. Yarydag, located in the republic of Daghestan in the south of Russia, is part of a ten-kilometer by 15-kilometer plateau located on the border of Azerbaijan and Russia. It is about 250 kilometers from Makhachkala, the capital o...

Condoriri and Huayna Potosí, Cordillera Real. From September 7 to October 4, Patrick Gabarrou and I made new routes, climbing ice gullies. The conditions were poor, with warm, unstable weather, little ice in the gullies and the rainy season two mo...

Aguja Guillaumet, Rayo de Luz and Disfrute de la Vida. Michal Pitelka (Czech) and I climbed two new routes on the west face of Guillaumet. On December 31,2008, and January 1,2009, on the right side of the face we established Rayo de Luz (450m, 11 ...

Mount Everest. An expedition of ten Swiss and two Italians was led by Romolo Nottaris. They had hoped to climb the 1980 Japanese route on the direct north face of Mount Everest in the post-monsoon period. After three months of effort, Nottaris bro...

Various ascents and ski descents. A dry winter in several areas James Bracken and I were interested in required us to adopt a “go where there’s snow” approach. Unfortunately, where there’s snow in the Andes, there’s often prodigious wind. Bariloch...

Basingthang Peaks. During October, Peter Mould led a combined climbing-trekking expedition to northwest Bhutan which had permission to tackle unclimbed “trekking peaks” up to 5700 meters from a Base Camp at 4200 meters on Basingthang yak pasture, ...

Cimes et Merveilles, by Samuel. 4to ; 40 pages of text and 89 photographic illustrations, 23 of them in color. Paris: B. Arthaud, 1952.Not to be confused with Samivel’s prize-winning motion-picture of the same title, this is the author’s pictorial...

Chinchey, Pucaranra, Peak in Cayesh Group, San Juan. Our expedition consisted of Richard Dietz, David Neff, Ben Pfeiffer, John Spezia, Gordon Thomas and me as leader. On June 16 we located Base Camp on a small grassy pampa at 14,000 feet at the he...

Washington—Mt. St. Helens: A party of 3 inexperienced 17 year old boys started for the top on October 26, 1952. They did not have ice axes, crampons, or ropes. About half way up two of them decided to return because of icy glaciers and crevasses. ...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Longs PeakOn April 15, Randy Joseph (33) fell suddenly and without warning during a lead on Longs Peak of Alexander’s Chimney. Conditions were mixed thin ice and bare rock, with protection mostly rock d...