Close Calls: Climbing Mishaps and Near-Death Experiences. John Long. Helena, MT: Falcon Publishing, 1999. 182 pages. $12.95.John Long is a Yosemite hardman from the 1970s and the author or editor of some 17 books on rock climbing. In Rock Jocks, W...
FALL ON ROCK - BELAY FAILURE (UNSECURED ROPE, DISTRACTION)California, Yosemite Valley, ChurchbowlOn Nov. 6, Betsey (20) and I, Mike (19), (pseudonyms) spent the day climbing at Churchbowl with friends. I had climbed in the park several times over ...
A Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada, by Howard Palmer and J. Monroe Thorington. Third edition. 12 mo.; xviii + 275 pages. New York: The American Alpine Club, 1940. Price $3.00 ($2.50 to A. A. C. members).The third edition of this ha...
Nebelet tower group, new routes. Ethiopia: the birthplace of humanity, coffee, Emperor Haile Selassie, and … climbing? Maybe. The people of northern Ethiopia understand getting vertical: they have churches carved into sandstone pinnacles. To get t...
Lagunak Ridge, Ama DablamRandy HarringtonWE HAD originally planned on having six expedition members. One, however, was a no-show from the very start; another opted for a different climbing expedition after reaching Base Camp. This left four of us:...
"Ben come out quick! You’re missing sun hour!” Kevin’s voice was muffled, as I was down in the snow cave chowing hot dogs, tortillas, and Nutella. Inertia was strong down in our subterranean home where gluttony and vices prevailed, but I couldn’t ...
CHARLES THEODORE DOTTER, M.D.1920-1985Dr. Charles Theodore Dotter, chairman of the Department of Radiology at the Oregon Health Services University School of Medicine, died on February 15 at the age of 64.He was bom in Boston in 1920, graduated in...
New icefall climbing. In 2004, Adam George, Philippe Wheelock, and I (all from Colorado), with assistance from Kelsang Phuntsok and Tashi Sherpa from Sikkim, Carlene Grant from Canada, and Andreas Prammer from Austria undertook what we believe to ...
Mountaineering Periodicals: Mountain, Ascent, Climbing, Off Belay, Mountain GazetteIn an age when general periodicals falter, there appears to be a plunge into specialized literature. Environment, camping and mountaineering are included in this se...
The JournalsWith the ever increasing activity in world mountaineering it has become more and more difficult to keep abreast of the literature in book form, and many readers are turning to the journals with their abridged accounts of large-scale ex...
DISLODGED ROCK – FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUEWyoming, Grand Teton, Black DikeOn July 17 around 1200, Paul Iman (23) contacted Rangers G.R. Fletcher and D. Hardesty at the Lower Saddle of Garnet Canyon. He was returning from the Black Dike area about a qu...
Early American Ascents. (Additional notes follow, with page references to the book published by the Club in 1943.) P. 1: In 1748, the young Quaker, Francis Rawle, introduced the Philadelphia custom of making the Grand Tour, scions of wealth and ge...
Our original plan was to approach Yangmolong from Sanglongxi (pronounced song-lung-see, a.k.a. Sanchu) Valley and climb from the east. We arrived in the valley on October 17 and spent the night in the lower village, which has a population of ca 30...
Chaupi Orco Area, Various Ascents. A 19-strong German Alpine Club Youth expedition (JDAV), accompanied by Bolivian guide Aldo Riveros, made a number of first ascents and new routes in the Chaupi Orco area from August 14-20, 1995. On the ridge to t...
Copap I, II and III Traverse, 1978. In July of 1978 Norman Benton and I camped at 17,050 feet on the Copap plateau. We crossed snow-fields to the lowest point in the ridge between Copap IV and Copap III. From there we followed along the ridge over...
Left Twin Brother, Ghetto Brother. Over six days in late October, Eric Draper, Bryan Bird, Kirsten Kremer, and I established the 1,700-foot Ghetto Brother (VI5.10 A3, 11 pitches). The route follows dihedral features just right of center on the spo...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Maroon BellsThe body of a Carbondale minister, killed when he slid out of control down an icefield while mountain climbing, has been recovered by military helicopter from the 13,200-foot level of Maroon ...
Pasu I, Ski Ascent and Descent. After a 26-hour bus trip up the Karakoram Highway, we took two days to reach Base Camp at 4000 meters on a flowered meadow up the large Pasu Glacier. We spent the next days finding a good route up the trough beside ...
Idaho, Sawtooth Range, Mt. Heyhurn. On August 27, Gerald Fuller (27) and James Ball (34) were attempting an untried sixth-class ascent of the North face of Mt. Heyburn. Fuller had climbed 20 ft. above his belayer to the top of a small block. Then ...
SNOW BLINDNESS, ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESSAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 15, both a South African McKinley expedition, consisting of Ian Bailey, Steve Camp, and Anthony Tonder, and a Taiwan Chen expedition consisting of Boa Hwan You and Mei Hsing Chen...