Baffin is a landscape of frozen fjords, exotic wildlife, massive big walls, and sea ice as far as the eye can see. I went to the island in early April and did not leave until the second week in June, having the experience of a lifetime along...
Two Expeditions in the Northern PurcellsPETER ROBINSONIn late August 1953 four friends and I completed a high-level traverse through a large unexplored section of the northern part of the Purcell Range of British Columbia.1 Unfortunately the weath...
Some of the remotest and wildest summits on earth are located in Alaska, and climbing them is a great adventure. Our goal was to reach, climb, and exit Taku D Peak, between the Taku and Matthes Glaciers in the middle of the Juneau Icefield, withou...
Dark Shadows Falling. Joe Simpson. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1997. 27 color photos. 207 pages. $24.95.Joe Simpson’s Dark Shadows Falling is his third non-fiction work since his mega classic Touching the Void. This latest book probes what Simpson ...
Andavite/Chopiraju Central, Fight Club. In the summer we, both 21, spent several weeks in the Cordillera Blanca. During our first stay in the Cayesh Valley (climbing Maparaju, San Juan, and Andavite’s South Ridge) we got a good view of the south f...
The Norwegian Expedition to Tirich Mir. In 1949 two Norwegian climbers, Arne Randers Heen and I, made a reconnaissance of Tirich Mir. It was long since there had been a Norwegian expedition to the highest mountains in Asia. In October 1907 Rubenso...
The Mountaineers. Most of the formal climbing activity in The Mountaineers is centered on the climbing courses that the club has been conducting since the early 1930’s. A basic course is presented for those who have limited experience in the mount...
Annapurna South Face. An international climbing team with French sponsorship, L’Esprit d’Equipe, has been assembled for six expeditions to seven 8000-meter peaks for a three-year period, 1988 to 1990. Several of the climbers were previously member...
Cajavilca III, Southeast Face, and Contrahierbas, attempt. John Pearson and I accessed the glacial basin below the east faces of Nevados Contrahierbas and Cajavilca from the northeast, and I am pretty sure we were the first climbers to do so. It’s...
The Trekker’s Guide to the Himalaya and Karakoram. Hugh Swift. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1982. 342 pages, black and white photographs, maps, bibliography. $10.95.This book covers a large geographic area, so naturally the descriptions of in...
Sickle Moon Attempt, Kishtwar Himal. The five-man Tokyo Agricultural University Expedition, led by Hiroshi Yamamoto, had Sickle Moon (21,568 feet) as its objective. They were turned back by a rock peak with a 1650-foot blue-ice slope and returned ...
1951-051959-052006 2006USACAN.USA CAN.TerrainRock431052868Snow226835536Ice2541585River1430Unknown22100Ascent or DescentAscent285358773Descent219237135Unknown248131Other™700Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock340729060Slip on snow or ice97120719Fall...
Arctic Alpine Ascents on Bylot Island. During the past summer I was a member of an expedition sponsored by the Arctic Institute of North America and the New York Zoological Society. The expedition went to Bylot Island, north of Baffin Island at 73...
Aguja Poincenot (3,002m), southeast face, Via Russo. In 2011 Sergey Dashkevitch (29), Arkadiy Seregin (52), and I (45) attempted a new route on the east face of Poincenot but retreated in bad weather. We returned in 2012 having as our goal the lon...
FALL ON ROCK, IMPROPER PROCEDURE, INADEQUATE BELAY, FATIGUE, MIS-COMMUNI CATIONIllinois, Crab Orchard National Wildlife RefugeOn May 31, 1989, an experiential education program was involved in the fourth day of a five day course being conducted in...
FALL OR SUP ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FATIGUE, DARKNESSNorth Carolina, Linville Gorge Wilderness, Shortoff Mountain, Paradise AlleyOn January 12, John Matthew (40) and Nathan Z. (30) both moderately experienced climbers, set off to climb M...
Wilderness Skiing, by Lito Tejada-Flores and Allen Steck. San Francisco and New York: Sierra Club, 1972, 310 pages, 11 photographs, numerous drawings, $6.95Wilderness Skiing, hot off the presses of the Sierra Club’s publishing empire, is a timely ...
Hombori region; Hand of Fatima, Hombori Tondo and Naama Tondo various new routes. In January our team from the Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne traveled to the Hombori region of Mali, our goal being to put up new routes on the Hand of Fatima. We...
Pioneer Ridge, Mount McKinley. In June 1956 six of us made an attempt on Pioneer Ridge on Mount McKinley. The party consisted of Keith Hart (leader) the Australian, Leon Blumer, Pete Schoening, Al Krup, Keith Randall, and Donald Claunch. We left t...
Washington, Snoqualmie Pass, Guye Peak. About 0800 on 25 March Shawn Taylor (21) and A1 Boullion (19) led their party for the summit of Guye Peak via a small gully on the southeast side. There were 20 people in all, about one-half of which had had...