North Barum Gol Valley, Hindu Kush. During June and July five Americans, Stu and Barbara Krebs, Pat and Clarice Caywood and I, calling ourselves the ”1964 American Hindu Kush Expedition,” visited the North Barum Gol valley of the Hindu Kush Range ...
East Peak of Ingalls Peak, Direct South Face. On September 10 Hal Lee and David Hiser completed the first direct ascent of this face with an enjoyable class 4–5 climb over extremely variable rock.
Taulliraju, North Face, 1979. On July 16, 1979 Peter Busch and I set up Base Camp in the Quebrada Jancapampa. The climb was hard from the beginning. To get out of Base Camp, we had to fix 500 feet of rope up the 2000-foot-high bluffs. We then clim...
Vampire Peaks, New Routes. Pike Howard and I flew to Summit Lake in the Vampire Peaks area on July 8. Our intentions were to explore the peaks west of Mount Mulholland on the Moraine Hill Glacier and continue the exploration of the Vampire Peaks. ...
Aguja Nevada III, South Face and Ranrapalca, Southwest Face. On July 7 Alex MacIntyre and I set off to do the south face of the Nevado de Carás I only to discover the successful pair returning. We changed our objective to the south face of the Agu...
Messrs. K. A. Henderson and R. L. M. Underhill accomplished the ascents of three major peaks in the Wind River range in Wyoming, near Green River pass. From a camp on a minor pass between Trail Creek and Stroud Creek, a peak to the east, 13,500 ft...
Musembeah Peak, West Buttress. The best climb that Layton Kor and I did while in the Grave Lake region of the Wind River Range was the western buttress of Musembeah Peak, on the east shore of Baptiste Lake. This buttress leads to the main summit a...
Bezingi Wall Traverse Attempt. José Bermúdez and Neil Wilson attempted to make an alpine-style traverse of the committing 15 kilometer Bezingi Wall from Shkara (5200 meters) to Lyalver during August 1994. On the seventh day they retreated down the...
Burgundy Spire, North Face, Winter Ascent. Two months of no climbing have Kit Lewis, Kevin Joiner, and me desperate for adventure. Kit suddenly decides that we should climb Burgundy Spire over the Christmas holidays. December 26 finds us staggerin...
Sajama. On June 24, Richard Hartshorne, Walter Schmiemann and I drove to the base of Sajama (21,424 feet) from La Paz. Establishing a high camp on the northwest ridge on June 25, we climbed to the summit and back to camp on June 26. On November 7 ...
Kahiltna Dome, Choo-Choo Express. On April 23 Erick Lawson and David Mullins climbed a route, which they called Choo-Choo Express, directly up the east face of Kahiltna Dome. They left their camp at ca 9,000' on the Kahiltna Glacier, descended abo...
FALL ON ROCK, STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWashington, Mount PilchuckAfter nightfall on January 11, 1981, rescuers were notified that Mark Winder (25) and a companion, Mike Depew (23), were stranded halfway up a rock cliff above Lake 22, northeas...
Nun, East Ridge. An eight-man Japanese expedition made a new route on the east ridge of Nun when K. Takahashi and S. Saito left on October 22 from Camp III at 21,325 feet and reached the summit on October 25 after three bivouacs. The expedition wa...
Manaslu, First American Ascent, and Last 8000er to be Climbed by an American. On September 11, on Manaslu’s standard Northeast Face route, Dr. Alan McPherson Jr. (British) and I placed Camp I at 5800 meters above the rock band south of the Naike C...
“Wolf Peak, Howling Ridge.” This route is located on the north ridge of the minor summit between Sperry and Vesper peaks. Viktoria Stepitova and I approached the climb via the Headlee Pass trail, then over the pass between Sperry and Vesper into t...
1951-631964GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeaths TotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta10410426British Columbia13724518Yukon Territory101000Quebec111000United StatesAtlantic — North571973529— South2...
Gurney Peak and P 8520, Kichatna Mountains. (See USGS map, Talkeetna B6). The north buttress can be seen from the “Glacier of the Shadows” (so named by the Roberts Party, A.A.J., 1967) which runs directly north from the summit of Gurney. The buttr...
Attempt on Nanda Devi, ascent of Devistan I, Maiktoli, and Trisul, Garhwal. Our trip this year was the sequel to a reconnaissance we had made to the Nanda Devi area last summer; it was financed by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, the Mount Ev...
Cerro Torre, Various Activity. Beside the ascent mentioned above, the Compressor Route saw only one other repeat this season: Heinz Zak, Peter Janschek and Elmar Springer (Austria) climbed it on February 21. The Austrians as well as the Americans ...
Climbs in the Western Cariboos. In August Alex Fabergé, Don Hubbard, Linnea Stewart, Art Wilder, my wife Nancy, our one-year-old daughter Mai-Britt and I helicoptered into a 5700-foot Base Camp at Tranquility Lake, three miles east of 9800-foot Mo...