Swat Kobistan. A German expedition, Stefan Rausch, leader, Franz Grundner, Wolfgang Hasse, and Eugen Näf, climbed first in the Mankial and Siri Dara groups. They all climbed on July 7 the Central Peak (17,500 feet), a second ascent, and Mustagh (?...
Hanuman Tibba. This peak of 19,450 feet was climbed on October 5 by a ladies’ expedition led by M. C. Usha. The summit was reached by Miss Sobha Kapur, Miss Bharati Bannerji, Miss Sudha Talwar and Sherpa Lobsang. The expedition met bad weather all...
K2, South-Southeast Spur, Attempt. A seven-member Basque team led by Ramon Agirre (38) reached 7000 meters on the south-southeast spur but were turned back by too much snow and avalanches that came down from the Shoulder (8000 meters). While estab...
Staunings Alps, East Greenland. An expedition led by Toni Gobbi of twelve Italians climbed in the Staunings Alps. They arrived in the region in June. They climbed the following peaks, none of them first ascents: West Greenland Peak (8333 feet), Ke...
Huascarán Norte, North Face. After acclimatization climbs on Artesonraju and Alpamayo, Kurt Saurer and I on May 19 left the lake in the Llanganuco and walked up to the north face. We spent a bad night in a snowstorm without a tent. The next day we...
Huarancante, Cordillera Volcánica. On October 13 I climbed Huarancante (c. 17,725 feet) from the Arequipa-Chivay road via the north fork of the Río Sulluma and the southwest ridge, traversing to the northwest peak, which is the highest one.John Ri...
Pata de Indio and Cerro Agua Negra, Central Andes. The newly opened international pass of Agua Negra, connecting San Juan, Argentina with La Serena, Chile, has made for easier access to the mountains. Alfredo Ceballos and I walked from the hamlet ...
FALL ON ROCK, POOR POSITION—IMPROPER SPOTTINGColorado, Horsetooth ReservoirOn May 28, 1985, Paul Beiser and I (Joe Eyre, 28) were bouldering at Horsetooth Reservoir. I was spotting for Beiser when he fell from two to three meters above me. He land...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 17 October Karel Dohnal (26), was leading his first direct aid climb on the Camp Four Tree route. He had placed direct aid pitons to a position approximately 25 feet up the vertical wall. He then placed a dir...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FULL PACKAND STEEP SLOPEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn July 3, 1987, Piotr Jankowiak (35), of the four-man Polish Denali Expedition, fell almost 800 meters to his death while descending the Messner Couloir. Jankowiak ...
Bona and Churchill, Wrangell-St. Elias Mountains. A considerable number of people have been climbing in the Bona-Churchill group. Dave Custer believes that a total of 22 climbers in five separate parties attempted Bona in May and June, of whom som...
Aspirant mountain guide Rolando Morales and ULAGM guide Beto Pinto, who has put up 20 new routes in the Cordillera Central, climbed the southeast face of Tunshu South. Morales and Pinto entered the Reserva Paisajística Nor Yauyos, southeast of L...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. Slovene climbers, Stane Belak and Marjan Kregar, were anxious to complete the route unsuccessfully attempted by them and two others in the autumn. Actually these two Yugoslavs in the pre-monsoon season of 1986 did not climb the...
Putha Hiunchuli. An eight-man joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition led by Kaneo Nakamura climbed Putha Hiunchuli by the south ridge to the south face, the standard route. On October 4 the summit was reached by Akira Mizutani, Yoshinori Nakajima, Pas...
Mount Everest, Kanshung Face. Mrs. Santosh Yadav led an Indian expedition that largely repeated the line up Everest’s east face pioneered by a small British-American-Canadian team (Anderson-Webster-Teare-Venables) in the spring of 1988. Kusang Dor...
Rimo I. Rimo I was first attempted by an Indo-British expedition in 1985 via the southwest spur (AAJ, 1986, pages 261-6, with photos). In 1986, an expedition with members from India, Australia, New Zealand, England and the United States attempted ...
Everest Climbed by Nepalese. A 24-man expedition of the Royal Nepalese Army was led by Lieutenant Colonel Chetra Bahadur Gurung. This was the first all-Nepalese expedition to succeed on Everest, making the 100th ascent of the mountain. Among the s...
Ullu-Tau (4,207m), north face, new route. In June 2003 a team of Czech climbers Bohuslav Vlcek, Jan Skalik, and Ondra Vespalec climbed a new route on the 1,400-meter high north face of Ullu-Tau (4,207m). Ullu-Tau is at the end of Adyr-Su Valley in...
Painted Mountains: Two Expeditions to Kashmir. Stephen Venables. Hodder & Stoughton, London, 1986. 239 pages, color photographs, route diagram, maps, bibliography. £12.95.For all the current celebration of the small, “alpine-style” expedition,...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLEDGeorgia, Tallulah Gorge State ParkJoshua Robertson (20), an avid rock climber, died of injuries from a fall on April 20. He was climbing with three others. Sources said the fall happened on P2 of Mescaline Daydream (...