The Titan, The Wasteland. It was reported that Walt Shipley and Bill Lee nailed “what may be the Titan’s last natural line,” The Wasteland (A3+ 5.8), an 1,100-foot nine-pitch route that required roughly 35 bolts. It lies on the tower’s west face, ...

Devils Tower, The Sabre. Tex Bossier and I made this new route on the west face in six hours of difficult climbing. It lies between the McCarthy and Vulture routes. It follows a thin aid crack for 300 feet, with belays in slings, passes a roof on ...

Chain of Mont Blanc. A new hut with capacity of 100-150, for summer climbing and spring skiing, is to be built near the site of the present Grands Mulets, and a similar structure will also be placed at 2600 m. on the Trélatête Glacier. On August 1...

Rainbow Wall, Sauron ’s Eye and Emerald City. Brian McCray and I had eyed the most obvious feature of the Rainbow Wall, a huge arch in the center of the wall that expands up half the wall, for some time. Mike Ward had started a route on the right ...

FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE—Wyoming, The Tetons. David Jensen (age unknown) signed out at the Jenney Lake Ranger Station on July 4 to climb the North East Snowfields route of Mount Owen. He was unsuccessful, and near the top of the Run — Don t Wa...

Udren Glacier. Alfons Hagn, leader, Franz Meiberger, Herbert Schmuck and Arne Stainer of the Lofer Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (Ö.A.V.) wanted to attempt P 6999 (22,963 feet) and the north peak of Istor-o-Nal (23,780 feet) from the souther...

Devils Thumb, Mount Burkett, Northeast Ridge and Other Peaks, Stikine Icefield. Dave Dahl, Bruce Tickell, Bill Zaumann and I spent three-and-a-half days in early July snow-shoeing up the Baird Glacier system from Thomas Bay to a previously placed ...

Nance Peak, Supercleavage. This peak, actually a dome, rises out of some of the most remote territory in Yosemite National Park. The 1500-foot south face is split by an enormous couloir leading straight to the summit. Tim Butler, Joe Kiskis and I ...

Bipeng Valley, Longgesali. On September 3-4 Saburo Mizobuchi, Keiichi Nagatomo, Naoki Ohuchi, and Tomohiro Sugai climbed a new route (400m, 13 pitches, IV AO) on Longgesali (a.k.a. Panyanjuhui, 5,420m). They also made unsuccessful attempts on the ...

McMillan Spire, North Face. This much talked-about face was finally-climbed on July 16 by Jerry Fuller and me on a three-day traverse of the Southern Picket Range. Our plan was to go light, with a minimum of food, cooking and equipment. We slept i...

Argentine-Chile boundary. The first ascent of Mt. Fitzroy (11,500 ft.) in Patagonia is reported to have been made in January 1952 by two French climbers, members of a party from the Section Lyon- naise of the Club Alpin Français. Fitzroy, a specta...

AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AthabascaOn August 30, 1980, Glen Parker (26), Dolores Parker (20), and Roy Walter (18) were ascending the normal route (north glacier, saddle, north ridge) on Mount Athabasca. They were roped together with...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION–BELAY ANCHOR, INADEQUATE BELAYBritish Columbia, Squamish, SickleTwo climbers were ascending a route called Sickle on the Apron on May 20. They were anchored to a conifer tree, about five to ten centimeters in di...

Cerro Heim Group Exploration and Ascent of Cerro Jani, Southern Patagonian Icecap. Our expedition was composed of Joe Browne, John Tincklepaugh, Alfredo Rikker, my brother Pedro and me. We explored the two possible routes of access to the Heim gro...

Nevado de las Virgenes, First Ascent, and Other Activity in La Choco Cota. Although previously reported as ascended, Nevado de las Virgenes, so christened by Theodor Herzog in 1911, remained unclimbed until June, when our Spanish expedition (Adolf...

Mount Sinyala. Mount Sinyala (5445 feet) was first climbed on April 11 by Mike Sherrick, Bill Amborn, Jim Wilkerson and me. Composed of Coconino sandstone and Kaibab limestone, the peak rises 1200 feet above the Sinyala Mesa on the south rim of th...

Routes on Fitz Roy. The following routes have been done on Fitz Roy:1. 1952, French (Terray et a1.), east face. M.A. Azema, The Conquest of FitzRoy, London: Andre Deutsch, 1957.2. 1965, Argentine (Fonrouge and Comesaña), supercouloir (supercana- l...

Peaks above Chhutidum Glacier. Michael H. Westmacott, his wife Sally, Dr. H. R. Thomlinson and I placed our Base Camp at the junction of the Kotgaz and Chhutidum glaciers on July 31. We had hoped to climb Lunkho West but from a reconnaissance camp...

Alaska Section. The slide shows in Anchorage have been a great way to bring our members and others together on a regular basis to network and find out what concerns the public has on climbing related issues. Eight of these popular shows were prese...

Streaked Wall, Lord Helmet. According to www.alpinist.com and confirmed by Brian McCray, he and Chad Umbel established Lord Helmet (9 pitches, VI 5.9 A4) over 11 days in May, spread over two trips. They drilled about 60 holes (including belay anch...