Cottontail Tower, East Face, Fisher Towers. This is an area known for soft, dirty rock and aid routes with long bolt ladders. Mine was the first major route without bolts and other drilled protection. There were long run-outs of A4, with potential...
Roraima, Hotel Guácharo. Kurt Albert, Renato Botte, Ivan Calderon, Michael Thaler, and I established Hotel Guácharo (550m, 7a+) in February 2009. This southeast face route is equipped at belays, with the rest mostly traditionally protected. The ro...
FALL INTO BUILDING–MISCALCULATED PENDULUM SWING FROM CRANEColorado, BoulderOn December 6, Ryan Young and Jacob Fuerst climbed over the chain-link fence surrounding a University of Colorado construction site, and walked straight to the base of the ...
Taulliraju, east buttress, second ascent. Possibly the most notable event in the Blanca during 2002 was not the creation of a new route but the second ascent of a major line that had remained unrepeated for 20 years. Over eight days from June 26 t...
California: (3) Stinson Beach Cliffs, Warm Springs, Marin County. On 12 February 1950 Robert L. Swift, 19, an experienced member of the Sierra Club, from Alameda, Cali fornia, fell during a scheduled Sierra Club practice climbing trip on which he ...
Nevado de Pissis and Other Ascents, 1990. Italians led by Luciano Gadenz was active in early 1990 in the high, barren area south of the Ojos del Salado. The other members were Giacomo and Renzo Corona, Giampaolo Depaoli, Silvio and Tullio Simoni a...
At the end of July, Florian Hill (Austria and Germany) and Robert Rauch (Bolivia and Germany) began climbing new ice, rock, and mixed terrain below the gable- end of the southwest ridge of Illimani. The initial passages were threatened by large,...
Gasherbrum II, Italian Women’s Altitude Record. Our expedition, for reasons of permissions, consisted of Gabriel Slovina Ubaldini, Valerio Bruschi, Enrico Mutti, my wife Goretta and me, but Goretta and I actually operated completely independently ...
Niut 1, Coast Range. Victor Josendal, Harvey Manning, and Robert Sipe, all from Seattle, climbed Niut I (9,082 feet) during the second week of July 1955. We reached the summit of this unclimbed peak near Lake Tatlayoko after a day and a half backp...
Castleton Tower, North Face. Newsworthy is the first ascent of a new route on the north face of Castleton Tower, The Sun, The Moon, The Stars (IV, 5.11, A3+), climbed by Jim Beyer and Pat Mclnerny. Started in October, the five- pitch climb was com...
FALL ON ROCK, NO PROTECTIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Grotto CreekOn May 20, 1990, W.M. fell while climbing on Grotto Slabs, sustaining cuts, scrapes, and bruises to his left hand, right thigh, and the right side of his rib cage. He continued climb...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, POOR POSITIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 26, a climber (33) was descending un-roped with his team members along the ridge below Washburn’s Thumb at approximately 16,500 feet. At this location the ter...
Rakaposhi Attempt. Twelve climbers from Crna in northern Slovenia attempted to make the second ascent of Rakaposhi’s north ridge, which was first climbed by Japanese in 1979. We established Base Camp, Camp I and Camp II at 3600, 4300 and 5350 mete...
Langtang Ri Winter Ascent. An expedition of three Koreans made the sixth ascent of Langtang Ri (7205 meters, 23,638 feet). On December 9, leader Park Young-Seok, Youn Tae-Young and Nepali Bir Bahadur Tamang reached the summit via the southwest rid...
Shimshal Valley, exploration and survey. In 2001, when the Yokohama Alpine Club went to the Shimshal Pass area to climb Mungarig-Sar (Lupjoi-Sar), we found the whole area to be almost completely unsurveyed. We had so much trouble identifying the s...
Tukuche and Dhampus Ascents. A French expedition led by Jean Moatti made the 16th authorized ascent of Tukuche (6920 meters, 22,703 feet). On September 28, Frédéric Buet and Lhakpa Norbu Sherpa reached the summit via the northwest ridge. This same...
Idaho Alpine Club. Our club, located in Idaho Falls, engages in diverse activities that include cross-country skiing, rafting, kayaking, bicycling, and backpacking in addition to climbing and mountaineering. Our 150 members have a strong interest ...
Lamjung Himal. The Hong Kong Expedition of the British Mountaineering Association was organized by Major J.L. Barker and led by Captain Michael Burgess. This nine-man team made the first ascent of the 22,921-foot peak. Their highest camp was Camp ...
Castle Crags, North Face of Castle Dome, Northern California. On June 22, Clay Cox, Mike Seeley and I climbed this route located in Castle Crags State Park. The climb began with a descent of a gully west of the Dome, to a large fir tree, just befo...
Wood Peak, Sinclair Spur, and Mount McArthur, North Ridge. The Anglo-American team of Geoff Hornby, Tom Nonis, Stephen Jones and Dean Freeman landed on the Hubbard Glacier on May 1. On May 3 they climbed a new route on the west face of Wood Peak (...