Bridge Mountain, Northwest Face, Desert Alpine, Previously Unreported. The name of the route, Desert Alpine (V 5.11 A1+, 18 pitches), doesn’t come, by any means, from the style that we climbed it in, but from the fact that it is, by Zion standards...

FALL ON ROCK, NUT FAILURENew Jersey, Yards CreekWe have begun receiving reports from this relatively new climbing area. In this instance, it was reported that a climber fell while leading. He was just short of the top when he slipped and his upper...

Kuti Dorkush, Batura Group. Irishmen Jack Bergin and Mairi Keenleyside climbed virgin Kuti Dorkush (c. 6000 meters). From Gilgit, they continued by jeep to Bar. Base Camp was near the junction of the Kukuar and Sat Marao Glaciers at 3200 meters. A...

California, San Gabriel Mountains, Mt. Baden-Powell. On February 19, Charles Brubaker (20), William Glass (20), Roy O’Brien (19), and Larry Sheets (17), set out to climb Mt. Baden-Powell (9399 ft.) The party planned to follow the summer trail. In ...

HIGH ALTITUDE CEREBRAL EDEMA (HACE)Alaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressThe “Kiwi Denali” expedition included Richard Walshe, Andre Bell, Dave McKinley, and Pete O’Connor. On June 6 three of the members, including Walshe, Bell, and O’Connor, depar...

Gangotri I, Ascent. A Japanese team led by Yutaka Morizane climbed Gangotri I (6672 m) in the Gangotri area twice via the northeast ridge: On September 30, Daisuke Naromi summitted with Rie Nishimoto, and on October 1, Yatuka Morizane reached the ...

Bear’s Tooth, East Face Attempt. Doug Klewin and I on June 15 attempted the east face of the Bear’s Tooth, the peak adjacent to the Moose’s Tooth and south of it in the intimidating cirque of the Buckskin Glacier. We climbed three pitches up the l...

FALLING ROCK, FALL ON ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainA party of four rock-climbing instructors from the Vernon Army Cadet Camp, who were training in Banff, were climbing a rock buttress above the Banff Army Cadet Camp on June 26, 19...

Castle Peak, Left Side of North Face. The north face of Castle Peak features six distinct granitic buttresses. Our climb ascended the last buttress on the left side of the face. On September 12, Sue Harrington and I climbed two pitches of slabs to...

Mt. McClellan, Granite Mountain, and Pernod Spire, various new routes. On the east face of Mt. McClellan, in the Enchantments near Leavenworth, Rolf Larson and I climbed a new route in July. The Madcap Laughs (IV 5.10+ C1) starts with four pitches...

Dhampus. Eight members of a French commercial expedition, including the leader Jean Coudray and a 60-year-old member, on October 26 climbed Dhampus via the west ridge from a camp at 16,400 feet.Michael J. Cheney, Himalayan Club, and Elizabeth Hawley

Jichu Drake Attempt and Sepchu Kang. Our women’s expedition went as the first mountaineering expedition to Bhutan on April 16. We had intended to climb the east ridge of Jichu Drake (previously incorrectly identified* as Tsherim Kang). We set out ...

Kalu and Spiti. An. English party of J. G. G. Stephenson, D. T. Osselton, J. M. Stopford, and J. P. O’F. Lynam climbed and explored in Kalu and Spiti during the summer of 1958. No details of what they did are available.

Mount Everest, Attempt. Our expedition, “Comarques de Girona-Everest 1996,” was composed of seven members, all of them from Girona (Catalonia, Spain): Anna Agusti, Quico Campos, Jordi Tosas, Francesc Maso, Carles Figueras, Salvador Coll and Joan C...

Climbers on the Highest Point of Each Continent. It seems that reaching the highest point of each of the continents has become a North American specialty. The first to complete all of them was our member, Dick Bass, when he climbed Everest earlier...

FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARRESTWyoming, TetonsPaul Gordon (36) was a four-year resident of Jackson Hole and a moderately experienced climber. On August 18, 1982, he and Maureen Flanagan hiked to Amphitheater Lake to practice snow climbing on t...

Cuerno Principal, South Face, Attempt. From January 24 to February 2,1999, Corrado Pipolo and Mauro Florit (Italy) climbed four new pitches (510d A1) on the south face of Cuerno Principal in the Valle del Frances before poor weather conditions for...

Knud Rasmussen Land, Sortebrae Mountains, first ascents. On May 27, 2006, a Twin Otter ski-plane transferred my group from Isafjordur in Iceland to N 69° 05.016', W 27° 38.879' on a tributary glacier feeding into the main Borggraven system. These ...

FALL ON ICE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, PLACED NO PROTECTIONNew York, AdirondacksOn January 29, 1984, Vic Benes fell during the approach to an ice climb on the south side of Lower Cascade Lake off Route 73 in the Adirondacks. The fall occurred after ...

FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONMontana, Beartooth Wilderness, Silver Run PeakOn August 24, around 0600, my wife, Rebecca Hodgkin, and I left camp —located just off the West Fork of Rock Creek Trail near Quinnebaugh Meadows—to climb Pensive Tower (III ...