Ancohuma, Various Ascents. The Joint Services Expedition to the Andes (JSE Andes ‘95) took place in Bolivia from April 25 to June 14, 1995. The expedition combined mountaineering in the Cordillera Real with physiological research and hang-gliding....
Cuerno Norte, Caveman Route. In the French Valley, Americans Ted Bonetti and Steve Schneider made the second ascent of Caveman, a mostly free 1,500-foot climb on the northwest buttress of Cuerno Norte, confirming the excellent quality of the climb...
Nepal Himalaya, Various Ascents, and Elizabeth Hawley’s Law of Economic Development. This season saw more teams from southeast Asia than ever before, although they are not yet coming in large numbers. Over the years, as countries have become more ...
Manaslu, South Face. An expedition of guides of the German Alpine Club (DAV) Mountain and Ski School had hoped to climb the unascended south ridge of Manaslu. They had Base Camp at 13,125 feet. They climbed a rock buttress to establish Camp I at 1...
McKinley, Rapid Ascent. On June 4 late in the afternoon, Mugs Stump left the camp at 14,000 feet on the West Buttress of McKinley and crossed to the West Rib, which he descended to the northeast fork of the Kahiltna. He then climbed the Japanese C...
Annapurna IV Attempt. An expedition of three Swiss, two Germans and an Austrian, led by Austrian Harald Navé, got no higher than 5700 meters on the normal route, the northwest ridge and northwest face, of Annapurna IV. Heavy snowfall resulted in s...
Mount Everest, Winter Attempt from Tibet. At the same time as Kazuyuki Takahashi was leading a successful winter ascent of Mount Everest from Nepal, his wife Michiko Imai Takahashi was leading an 18-member team from Tibet. Husband and wife had hop...
Chatarake and Kang Bum. Bas Gresnigt and I made a climbing expedition to western Bhutan. Our first objective was a mountain that the Swiss trekking map of Bhutan calls Chatarake and is given as 6500 meters high. This is also called Djodrake by loc...
Shisha Pangma. New Zealanders Steve Bruce and Dick Price reached the summit of Shisha Pangma by the standard route on May 16, followed on May 20 by leader Mike Perry and Mark Whetu, who descended on skis. The latter is a Maori. A nine-man Austro-S...
Snow Creek Wall. Three routes were done on this relatively untouched wall during the past summer. The most interesting involved 700 feet of climbing, done in August on the south portion of the wall by Galen McBee and Ed Cooper. Over 50 pitons and ...
Bharat Kunta. A team from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police led by B.C. Kulbe climbed this peak in the Kedarnath massif. Kalyan Singh, Nima Dorje, Ang Phutar, Prithvi Prasad, Kunwar Singh and Tripan Singh reached the summit (21,580 feet) on September...
Huandoy Group, Attempted Traverse. It was reported that Brad Johnson and Bruce Normand attempted a traverse of all four Huandoy summits, succeeding on all but one. The pair first climbed the Northeast Face of Huandoy Sur from the Pisco high camp, ...
In 1997, I climbed four small, “new” towers in the Fisher Towers with various partners. In April, Jon Butler and I made the first ascents of two towers, Large Marge and The Projects, below the Titan Trail. In December, Jesse Harvey, Mike Baker a...
New Routes on the East Face of Longs Peak. Tex Bossier and I made several new routes on the east face of Longs Peak during June of 1963. The difficult Grey Pillar route begins 120 feet right of the Diagonal. The first two leads ascend a steep aid ...
Three generations of Americans on the Matterhorn. In A. A. J. ii, 511, 513, we recorded ascents of Monte Rosa and Matterhorn in 1881 by Henry White Warren, bishop of the Methodist Episcopal church, with Peter Knubel. Rev. Warren’s interest in moun...
Chiquito Dome. The route named “Archline,” as reported by Conrad van Bruggen and Fremont Bainbridge in A.A.J., 1981, page 174, had been previously climbed in 1974 by Ian Raistrick, Darien Hopkins and Hugh Woodland. They had placed no bolts and the...
Grandes Jorasses. On 6 August 1951, after four days of extraordinarily difficult climbing, in bad weather, A. Heckmair and H. Köllensperger completed the Cassin route on the N. face of the Grandes Jorasses. Guides and chasseurs, headed by Lionel T...
Fitz Roy. There was conflicting information on page 585 of A.A.J., 1978. At the top of the page we reported incorrectly that an Italian expedition had climbed the north buttress of Fitz Roy. Lower on the same page Vojslav Arko correctly stated tha...
Condoriri Group, Various Activity. Slovenes David Podgorelec and Aleš Kovac from the Kozjak Maribor Mountaineering Club spent a week at Condoriri in 1997. On June 28, they attempted Aguja Negra (5280m) and got to the breche on the eastern arête, w...
Torre Egger, Southwest Face. During February and March Italians Bruno Di Dora and Giuliano Giongio climbed the southwest face of Torre Egger. The face was objectively very dangerous because of falling ice and rockfall. The route had previously bee...