The Cordillera Oriental has been explored during the last decade by Tony Barton and various partners. It was reading about his new route in 2010 with Tom Chamberlain on the south face of Huaguruncho (Huagaruncho, 5,723m, AAJ 2011) that sparked ...
Dhaulagiri Attempt and Tragedy. An Austrian expedition led by Edi Lindenthaler and composed of Josef Inhöger, Erich Unterberger, Hans and Hansjörg Linderthaler, Franz Müllender, Hans Gapp and Martin Homegger had hoped to climb the northwest ridge ...
Mount Everest, Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition. The 1999 Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition was conducted to search for evidence of the 1924 British attempt on Mt. Everest and to recover information about the high point reached by Georg...
Mamostong Kangri. The expedition which I led was composed of 25 members of the Ladakh Scouts. No additional high-altitude porters were used. We left Leh, traveled via Diskit, Sasmoma, Saser La, Shyok River, Thangman (Kichik Kumdan) Glacier to Mamo...
Everest Attempt. Belgian Karl Huyberechts attempted to climb the South Col route on Everest solo. He got to 8500 meters on May 8 but had to turn back from there because of problems with his oxygen equipment.Elizabeth Hawley
Czarsky Tron, southwest wall, new route. In February 2003 a team from Krasnoyarsk climbed a new route on the southwest face of Czarsky Tron (Czar’s Throne, 2,500m) located in the Kodar Range, Eastern Siberia. The temperature on the arrival at base...
White Limbo: The First Australian Climb of Mt. Everest. Lincoln Hall. Kevin Weldon, McMahons Point, 1985. 262 pages, color photographs, route diagrams, map, glossary. $40.00 (US).The rich and varied lore of mountaineering literature devoted to Mou...
INADEQUATE BELAY, FALL ON ROCKIdaho, City of Rocks National Reserve, Parking Lot RockOn August 19 Jeff Everett (49) was lowered off the end of his seventy-meter rope on “Delay of the Game.”He fell at least 20-30 meters, impacting ledges and a Maho...
TABLE IIGeographical DistrictsAccidents1947-19541955Atlantic States—North 141South20 Central — 2 Colorado 324Utah 40Wyoming 193Montana & Idaho 61Arizona & Nevada 50California 234 Oregon 173Washin...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, NO HARD HAT Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn February 3, 1993, at 1200, Carl Siegel (30) and Tim Cumbo (35) were descending the Cables (North Face) Route on Longs Peak after having successfu...
Grosse Zinne. The north face of this forbidding pillar, one of the most impossible looking walls in the Dolomites, has at last succumbed to the “hardware” technique that in the Eastern Alps goes under the name of rock-climbing. A number of attempt...
Everest Attempt via the Japanese Couloir. An Italian expedition led by Giuseppe Pozzoli was unable to climb the north face of Everest. They got to 7000 meters in the Japanese Couloir on September 29.Elizabeth Hawley
Georgia, Cliff in vicinity of Camp Wahsega near Dahlonega—On 23 November, Robert D. Bridger (21), a Ranger student participating in scheduled training fell to his death. He was riding down on a suspension traverse constructed of a one inch manila,...
FALL, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXPOSURE.—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Joe Ebner (28), Richard Rose (41), Bill Joiner (25), and Larry Fanning (28) were members of a six-person expedition climbing Mount McKinley via the Pioneer Ridge Route. The party left Won...
Nuptse, north face, The Crystal Snake. In terms of high-standard technical ascents at altitude the highlight of the season was the new route on the north face of Nuptse by Argentinean guides, Damian and Willie Benegas.The brothers made their first...
Istor-O-Nal North Attempt. We had hoped to climb Istor-O-Nal North (7373 meters, 24,190 feet) by the Lapuch route. The members were Germans Kurt Bartenschlager, Gerhard Grassl, Eckard Kunze, Norbert Pfab, Austrians Erich Bosina, Adolf Deichstetter...
Mount Russell Attempts, 1980 and 1981. In May 1980 Dave Pahlke and I attempted the northwest ridge of Mount Russell (11,670 feet). The route was too dangerous and was abandoned at about 9300 feet due to poor ice and constant exposure to avalanches...
STRANDED DUE TO SHOULDER DISLOCATION Alberta, Mount LouisOn August 10, G.G. and G.B. were beginning the exit pitches on the summit tower of Mount Louis. They were attempting the classic Perren Variation (5.7). While starting to lead the first pitc...
A review of the mountains near the head of the Pare Chu. The Pare Chu lies northeast of the Spiti River, not far from the Indo-Tibet border. Since 1995 it has been easy for foreign mountaineers to gain access to the areas west of the Spiti River, ...
Tilitso Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt. Tilitso (7134 meters, 23,405 feet) was successfully climbed by three expeditions in the fall. All were by the northeast spur to the north ridge. Led by Hubert Fritzenwallner, a group of 9 Austrians complet...