The Murchisons RevisitedGeorgia EngelhardIN 1938, when Eaton Cromwell, the writer and Edward Feuz made the first ascent of the S. and N. Murchison Towers,1 we viewed with interest the three other virgin peaks of the district, and decided that at s...

Cerro Largo, first ascent, northeast ridge; Cerros Hyades, Turret, and Escuela, first winter ascents. After making the first winter crossing of the Northern Patagonia Ice Cap in July 2006, we wanted to climb mountains on the northeast side of the ...

Chon-Turasu Valley, attempt on Koroleva and ascent of Molodezhnyi. In August I climbed with Graham Holden in the Chon-Turasu Valley of the Western Kokshaal-Too. We reached our 3300m base camp by Ural Truck in a problem- free three-day drive from B...

Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The year 1971 was a successful yet heartbreaking one for the club. Disaster struck three of our most active members: Dr. Grace Hoeman, Hans Van der Laan, and Buddy Jai- dinger. Grace and Hans were killed on April 12 ...

Mizhirgi (5,025m), north ridge, winter ascent. In early January 2009 Sasha Gukov, Sergey Kondrashkin, Alik Izotov, and Viktor Koval made the first winter ascent of the north ridge of Mizhirgi East Peak (4,927m). Mizhirgi is an eastern subsidiary s...

Pilgrimage on BhagirathiAt the mercy of the mountain godsby Yuri Koshelenko, Russiatranslated by Natasha Lagovskaya and Liana DarenskayaOn October 14, 1998, at high noon, just 20 steps away from the summit, Igor Potankin and I were peacefully enjo...

It was my sixth visit to the Karavshin. Our group of five arrived when the season was in full swing. The meadows were full of climbers from Zelenograd, Moscow, and Tomsk. Coming in with us was a group of 20 from St Petersburg. Taras Tsushko and I ...

Kamet West Ridge Attempt. Our expedition was a joint effort of the Royal Air Force and the Indian Air Force. British airmen were Robert Appleyard, G. Stamp, Gordon Turner, Brian Kirkpatrick, Philip Smithson, Colin Scott, Martin Owens, Paul Horth, ...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, PROBABLE UNIQUE WEATHER EVENTWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton, Lower ExumOn July 19, George Gardner (58) fell to his death while solo climbing the Lower Exum Ridge of the Grand Teton. Gardner and other ...

Shivling’s Direct North ButtressThe quest for the magic lineThomas Huber, GermanyIf I continued climbing, I wouldn’t be able to calculate the risk anymore. I was standing on a tiny ledge in the middle of an overhanging wall. Iwan Wolf, ten meters ...

Koh-e-Maghrebi (6,040m), probable first ascent. Spanish mountaineers David Cejudo Fernandez and Luis Miguel Lopez made a rare visit to Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor, where they made the probable first ascent of a 6,040m peak, subsequently named Ko...

Second ascent of the Mustagh Tower, Eastern Arête. While the British were attacking the Mustagh Tower from one side, a strong French party under Guido Magnone was on another, consisting of André Contamine, Paul Keller, Robert Paragot, and Dr. Fran...

ICE FALLWashington, Mount Shuksan, Hanging GlacierOn August 21, 1991, two experienced climbers—Curt Veldhuisen (29) and Gary Gray (33)—signed out at the USFS Ranger Station and proceeded to their base camp in the White Salmon drainage below Mount ...

Central Kokshaal-Too, history prior to 2007. With the eastern (Dankova) and western (Kizil Asker) sectors of the Western Kokshaal-too having now been explored by a number of non-CIS climbing parties (beginning with a French-German team to the Dank...

Mount Koven, First Ascent*. The word had been going around Alaska for a couple of years that Mount Koven was unclimbed. Mark — and Randy Waitman hiked in one August for a try, and though rotten rock turned them back, they were psyched enough to pl...

Mount Thor: Direct West FaceEric BrandMOUNT THOR is located 16 miles above the Arctic Circle in the Weasel Valley on Baffin Island. Our goal was to climb the 4,500-foot west face, tackling the 1,600-foot overhanging headwall.Previous attempts on M...

Everest, record day and first snowboard descent. May 23 saw the record for the number of climbers reaching the summit in a single day completely smashed. Before last year the record stood at 40, these ascents taking place on the May 10, 1993. On M...

Kumbhakarna—My WayTomo Cesen, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, YugoslaviaFOR A YEAR, I debated with myself whether to try to climb Kumbhakarna solo. At one time, 1 spent an entire fortnight thinking of nothing else. After all, its direct north face was ...

Sunset Slabs. In January and February, Steve Spaar, Mark Lane, and I made the first ascents of some fine routes on this remote rock. The rock is located on the south side of Bear Peak just northwest of the Devil’s Thumb. The extremely long and dif...

Cordillera Real, Various Ascents. Bolivia, and especially the Cordillera Real, is being visited by many Argentines. In early July, 1995, a large group made various ascents. The most remarkable was a new route on Pirámide Blanca (5230 m) which Mari...