Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon had a most active year of mountaineering in 1961 under the direction of climbing chairman, Erwin Rieger. When a club adheres to a policy of well-organized, official climbs as do the Mazamas, there is necess...
P 5900, “Tekone Peak,” Tirich Mir Massif. Our expedition consisted of Mike Browning, Dana Coffield, Bruce and John Gordon, Ed Ramey and me as leader. On July 1 our expedition flew from Rawalpindi to Chitral and the next day took the three-hour jee...
Peak 4810, East Face, New Route. Alexander Pogorelov and Vitaly Polohov from Rostov-on-Don established a new route (6B, 1100m) on the east face of Peak 4810, fixing the initial pitches of the route from August 4-11, then climbing it from August 14...
Scholar Mountaineers, by Wilfrid Noyce. 164 pages, with 12 full- page illustrations and wood-engravings by R. Taylor. London: Dennis Dobson, 1950. Price, 12/6.What does the title Scholar Mountaineers lead one to expect? Maybe a series of essays ab...
Mt. Robson. Emperor Face, Haley-House. When I got the call, Joe Josephson was on the other end of the line. Joe and Barry Blanchard were looking for a third to join them on an attempt on the Emperor Face, and so began what we came to call “the ann...
Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, by Steve Roper and Allen Steck.San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1979. 324 pages, 189 photos.To those with a passion for active climbing or “armchair” participation, Fifty Classic Climbs may at first not seem...
The Reconnaissance of the Minya KonkaArthur B. Emmons, IIION the southeastern borders of Tibet, where the high plateau drops abruptly down into the fertile plains of Western China, lie several ranges of peaks which are generally looked upon as a c...
Nevado Quitaraju, south face. Brits Nick Bullock and Al Powell opened a new route on the great south wall of Nevado Quitaraju (6040m). This route is to the right of the Slovenian line (the only previous route on this wall). The first climbers expl...
GunnjØrns Fjeld, Watkins Mountains, East Greenland. This second phase of a joint Anglo-Danish project was concerned with exploration and scientific work in the Blosseville Coast area. The first phase in 1969 explored the inland icecaps and attempt...
Ján Smolen (Slovakia) and Ondra Beneš, Jiri Lautner, and Tomáš Sobotka (Czech Republic) established El Sendero De Los Indigenas (7c/UIAA 9), on the east face of Acopan Tepui from Jan 7—11. The 425m route has 11 pitches: 3, 7a, 7c, 7c, 7b, 6b, 6a, ...
Lhotse Shar. Lhotse Shar, the east peak of Lhotse, is difficult. Out of 20 expeditions attempting it from 1970 to 1988, only five have succeeded and seven climbers have fallen to their deaths on its slopes. A 16-man Swiss expedition of the Zermatt...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTINCTS-NOT TO CLIMB THAT DAYCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Low Profile DomeAt 1630 on September 8, Ranger Mike Yost received a call at the Tuolumne Meadows Ranger Station regarding an injured climber at the ...
As always, we are very grateful to the Editorial Board and to those friends without whose unstinting assistance this section could not have been compiled. It is impossible to mention all who have helped who are not members of the Editorial Board. ...
This is the forty-third issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the twelfth that has been done jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: First, an apology. In last year’s report of a fatal accident o...
SUDDEN DEATH ON SUMMITAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressThis Alpine Ascents International climbing expedition flew into the base camp of Mount McKinley on June 20th with two guides and six clients, one of whom was James P. Nasti (51), a first t...
Mt. McKinley: The Pioneer Climbs, by Terris Moore. College, Alaska. University of Alaska Press, 1967. Distributed by University of Washington Press. 202 pages, many photographs, 8 maps. Price $6.95. Mount McKinley is superlative in several respect...
Koh-e-Urgund Attempt, Koh-e-Awal. Unfortunately our undertaking turned out sadly. Two of my companions, Werner Bergmann and Horst Kaltow disappeared on August 30 near Camp II on Koh-e-Urgund, presumably buried in an avalanche. Before that, I had f...
Valle Cochamó, overview and various ascents. At pitch 13 on the white granite of the 1,000m Trinidad wall, Argentine Esequiel Manoni and I were interrupted by a condor’s 2m wing span slicing the air, as the curious bird swept by our position. Belo...
Putha Hiunchuli. Our expedition consisted of Jung Sang-Kun, Yoon Dae-Hyo, Kim Kyung-Nam, Kang Young-Ki and me as leader. We approached via Nodanda and Beni and got to Base Camp at 4200 meters on March 20. We climbed the south ridge and south face....
The Seven Summits. Americans have been in the lead in climbing the highest points of all the continents. Now, Dolly Lefever has been added to the list as the third woman and the first American woman. In the past, there has been a question as to wh...