Washington—Mt. St. Helens: A party of 3 inexperienced 17 year old boys started for the top on October 26, 1952. They did not have ice axes, crampons, or ropes. About half way up two of them decided to return because of icy glaciers and crevasses. ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTColorado, Longs PeakOn April 15, Randy Joseph (33) fell suddenly and without warning during a lead on Longs Peak of Alexander’s Chimney. Conditions were mixed thin ice and bare rock, with protection mostly rock d...
Shisha Pangma Attempt. Our climbing party consisted of Chuck Huss. Ken Nolan, John Pelner, Art Porter and me. We arrived at Base Camp at 16,000 feet by truck on April 12, anticipating a straightforward climb on the normal route from the north. Wit...
Trollvegen (Troll Wall), Suser gjennom Harryland, first quasi-winter and third overall ascent. Rolf Bae, Sigurd Felde, Trym A. Sæland, and I wanted to try a winter ascent of the Franskeruta on the Troll Wall, but poor weather and resulting avalanc...
El Capitan, Cleanup of the Nose. The Conservation Committee of the AAC provided a generous grant to a group of climbers from Prescott College in Arizona to clean the Nose Route of El Capitan and to educate climbers about conservation ethics on the...
Mount Temple, East Face. The east face of Mount Temple was climbed for the first time by Don Claunch and Fred Beckey on June 7. From the Razorback-Temple col the route follows the ridge (third class) to the final wall. The last lead is an interest...
Broad Peak. Again this year there were a number of expeditions to Broad Peak (8047 meters, 26,400 feet), only three of which were successful. A Japanese expedition from Tokyo University led by Keijiro Hayasaka repeated the standard route. Leader H...
Geldhung. The Durgapur Mountaineering Association went from Malari to Base Camp at Patalpani. On September 7 Sibapada Chakraborty, Amit Sinha, Dipak Pal and two Sherpas reached the summit (20,214 feet) of this virgin peak.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan ...
The Temple (Methow Range), Southwest Buttress. On July 8, 1964, Norm Weber and I completed a new route on the southwest corner of this dome-shaped peak located near the south end of Kangaroo Ridge. This route is on the longest side of the peak and...
Miyar Valley, Neverseen Tower (5,700m), Mai Blau. Eloi Callado and I arrived there at the beginning of September, and after setting up our base camp (4,800m) at the glacier’s moraine we started carrying the stuff to the base of the wall (5,050m). ...
Shivling Attempt, Direct North Buttress, Alpine-Style. Christoph Hainz and I arrived at Base Camp at 4150 meters below Shivling on May 22. We spent the next seven days acclimatizing. On May 30, we moved up to bivouac at 4700 meters. At four A.M. o...
Huandoy Sur, Oro del Inca. On August 9, Pavle Kozjek (Slovenia) climbed a new route on the northeast face of Huandoy Sur (6166 meters). He started early at 4:30 a.m. from the moraine camp, crossed the bergschrund and started to climb a very steep ...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Owen CouloirOn June 9, 1992, H. Kammeyer (33) and his partner departed from a high camp at the Lower Saddle for an ascent of the complete Exum Ridge route on the Grand Teton. Th...
Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas, by Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney. Denver, Colorado: Sage Books, 1960. 389 pages; 99 ills.; 24 maps; index. Price $6.50.We owe a great debt to the Bonneys for preparing this long-needed gui...
Doric Column, The Big Nasty. It was reported that Bill Lee and Walt Shipley put up a new 600-foot route via the “obvious” line on the Doric Column’s southeast face. The Big Nasty (A4 5.9R) was climbed over three days in November; ten holes were dr...
Longs Peak, a new route on The Diamond. On August 14, Robert Boucher, his wife, a five-man support party and I strolled up to Chasm Lake on Longs Peak. After lunch, we climbed the North Chimney to Broadway, the great ledge at the base of the 1000-...
Mont Blanc. From the effects of the late John Barrymore (1882–1942), the American actor, we have secured his certificate of an ascent of Mont Blanc, made on September 1, 1921, in company with M. Myrtil Schwartz of Strasbourg, the guides Joseph Dem...
The Desert, Various Activity, Previously Unreported. Utah 95 passes through Comb Ridge, a dramatic, deep cut in the Navajo sandstone. In March, 1997, Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson put up Magic Man, a five-pitch, 250-foot 5.10+ route on the Praye...
FALLING ROCK—Wyoming, The Tetons. Paul Potters (25), Ivan Rezucha and William Parks were climbing the north face of the Grand Teton on the morning of July 11. Potters was leading approximately 150 feet above the bergschrund when he pulled off a l...
Trek up Ziwar Valley, Chitral. Our first expedition was organized as a reconnaissance for future trips by two senior high school teachers, Sadao Karibe and me. We arrived at Chitral by air on July 29, unfortunately without our unaccompanied baggag...