“Sweet Jesus, man, this blows. I hate alpine climbing.” It had become our trip’s mantra. But short memory resulted in Scott DeCapio and I climbing three routes from the Tokositna Glacier, all in pure alpine style, of course. We climbed light, lead...
Mascara, East Face, Attempt, Cuerno Este and Cuerno Chico, New Routes. We were in Paine National Park from December 11-January 21. The aim of our stay with Robert Tanner (Germany) was to climb Cerro Mascara from the Bader Valley. The Welsh Camp, w...
East Tooth, East Face. The Three Teeth of Sawtooth Ridge offer an impressive view from the west, but from the east they are even sheerer and less recognizable. The east faces of the Middle Tooth and East Tooth merge into one imposing 700-foot wall...
Study of this report reveals an increase in the proportion of accidents involving climbers of little or no experience and without experienced companions. Of the 28 climbing accidents in 1948 on which data were available, 20 resulted directly from ...
Dhaulagiri, Pear Route. After many tries, the Pear Route on Dhaulagiri has finally been climbed. An 18-man Japanese expedition was led by Norio Sasaki. They established six camps, the highest at 26,100 feet. On October 18 Noboru Yamada, Kozu Komat...
LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS FALL ON SNOW, FATIGUEUtah, Mount Olympus, North FaceThe previous year we (Michael and Jane Feldhaus, 33 and 31), along with Paul (41) and Marion (36), had completed the same route on Mount...
Gams in ihrer Bergheimat, by Franz Graf Zedwitz. 8 vo., 73 pages, with 94 illustrations from photographs. Berlin-Lichterfeld: Hugo Bermiihler Verlag, 1939.One of the most expert German photographers and game observers has made a book of the chamoi...
Count Zero on HuntingtonClay Wadman, UnajfiliatedIn 1991, I SAT IN BASE CAMP with my friends Gordy Kito and Ritt Kellogg while Jay Smith and Paul Teare climbed the Phantom Wall. (See AAJ, 1992, pages 50-58.) We had been stormbound for ten days whe...
Travel and Mountaineering in the CaucasusWm. Osgood FieldIT is only within the last seventy years that foreigners have gone to the Caucasus to see the region, explore its valleys and climb its mountains. At first conditions of travel were very bad...
Colorado Climbing Notes, 1934The past climbing season in Colorado was even better than the memorable season of 1933, if we are to judge a season by the number of first ascents and new routes produced. Indeed, the past season records possibly eight...
Hooked on Traprock: Rock Climbing in Central Connecticut. Ken Nichols. Amereon House. Photos, cartoons. 504 pages. $27.95Comment: Ken’s talents as a guidebook writer are less famous than his exploits in the “bolting wars.” His descriptions are lim...
South Walsh, attempt. Our flight in was delayed for five days due to poor weather, and we left three days early due to the high probability of further poor flying conditions. Paul Geddes, Willa Haraysm, Dave McCormick, Ted Rosen, and I were on the...
AVALANCHEWashington, Mount ShuksanOn June 26, 1983, Peter Travis (19) and John Nelson (20) were killed when an avalanche on Price Glacier, on the north flank of Mount Shuksan, swept them down an avalanche chute and over a cliff.John Trombold, one ...
Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon had a most active year of mountaineering in 1961 under the direction of climbing chairman, Erwin Rieger. When a club adheres to a policy of well-organized, official climbs as do the Mazamas, there is necess...
P 5900, “Tekone Peak,” Tirich Mir Massif. Our expedition consisted of Mike Browning, Dana Coffield, Bruce and John Gordon, Ed Ramey and me as leader. On July 1 our expedition flew from Rawalpindi to Chitral and the next day took the three-hour jee...
Peak 4810, East Face, New Route. Alexander Pogorelov and Vitaly Polohov from Rostov-on-Don established a new route (6B, 1100m) on the east face of Peak 4810, fixing the initial pitches of the route from August 4-11, then climbing it from August 14...
Scholar Mountaineers, by Wilfrid Noyce. 164 pages, with 12 full- page illustrations and wood-engravings by R. Taylor. London: Dennis Dobson, 1950. Price, 12/6.What does the title Scholar Mountaineers lead one to expect? Maybe a series of essays ab...
Mt. Robson. Emperor Face, Haley-House. When I got the call, Joe Josephson was on the other end of the line. Joe and Barry Blanchard were looking for a third to join them on an attempt on the Emperor Face, and so began what we came to call “the ann...
Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, by Steve Roper and Allen Steck.San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1979. 324 pages, 189 photos.To those with a passion for active climbing or “armchair” participation, Fifty Classic Climbs may at first not seem...
The Reconnaissance of the Minya KonkaArthur B. Emmons, IIION the southeastern borders of Tibet, where the high plateau drops abruptly down into the fertile plains of Western China, lie several ranges of peaks which are generally looked upon as a c...