Langsisa Ri in Winter. A Korean expedition led by Lee Dong-Myung made the sixth ascent of Langsisa Ri, climbing its south face. On December 14, Kim Bo-Youl and Dawa Tshering Sherpa reached the summit.Elizabeth Hawley

Trango Valley, first ascent of The Flame, new route on Shipton Spire. In August Josh Wharton and I, hailing from Colorado, put up two new routes in the Trango Valley of Pakistan. Following a 40-day stint of rain, broken up by two clear days to rel...

Tilitso, Post-Monsoon. There were two successful expeditions to Tilitso (7134 meters, 23,406 feet) in the post-monsoon season. Fourteen Swiss and a Pole from the University of Bern, led by Karl Kobler, climbed the northeast spur to the north ridge...

Castle Rock, Tumwater Canyon. Bruce Gibbs, Ed Cooper, and Ron Priebe climbed the last clean route left on this rock early in the spring. This route, called the “Century,” followed a long rib just to the right of the “Sabre” chimney, and was primar...

Arizona Mountaineering Club. The A.M.C. finished a typically Standard year in 1985. We taught more than 60 people beginning rock climbing during our biennial basic climbing school near Phoenix. We also taught a small advanced rock-climbing school ...

Peak 29, West Face Attempt. The Yokohama Mountaineering Association Expedition was led by Fumia Tamaka and included nineteen, one an American and one a woman. They attempted the west face of Peak 29 (24,652 feet). They reached 19,000 feet on April...

Balconies, Shake and Bake, Pinnacles National Monument. In May Chris Vandiver and I discovered perhaps the most sustained and spectacular free route at Pinnacles. We climbed the Balconies’ east face by way of a 350-foot indented, black water strea...

Mount Logan, East Ridge. By May 12 Brian Cabe, Steve Mock, Ed Rosette, Ed Sondeno, Chuck Swenson, and Gigi Swenson were all assembled at Base Camp at 2380 meters between the Hubsew and East ridges. Our original goal was to make the third ascent of...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Little MatterhornOn August 16, 1992, at 1000, Jon M. Hofstra (23) fell about 1000 feet while descending unroped from the summit of the Little Matterhorn do...

Everest Attempt. On August 20, Jan Harris and I arrived at the 5600-meter-high Rongbuk Glacier Base Camp. On the 24th, we placed Advance Base at 6400 meters at the foot of the North Col. We established Camps I and II on the North Col and north rid...

Peaks in the Chogolungma Group. It seems incredible that neither of our expeditions to Malubiting Central in 1974 or 1975 really got to the mountain. This year we were thwarted by frightful air service from Rawalpindi to Skardu and incorrect word ...

Second Ascent of Nanda Kot. An all-Naval expedition, consisting of Instr. Lt. M. S. Kohli, leader, Surgeon Lt. Y. C. Sharma, A. S. Pabreja, K. P. Sharma, and D. B. Ambastha, left Delhi on April 27. Sirdar Ang Tsering and Da Temba accompanied the p...

Cashmere Crags, West face of the Mole. Better late than never? On September 15, 1957 Gerry Honey, Jim Fraser and I climbed the west face of the Mole from our camp on the small lake at its base at the head of Rat Creek. The route was the obvious in...

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED California, Yosemite Valley, Sunnyside BenchOn August 7, 1994, James Howell (21) free-soloed Lazy Bum, a 5.10d route on Sunnyside Bench. To get back to the ground he traversed several yards left and down to...

Siykhem Nuruu National Park, exploration and a first ascent. Our six member team from the north of England comprised Ken Findlay, Stuart Gallagher, John Given, Les Holbert, Karl Zientek, and myself. We had as our goal exploration of the area aroun...

Shiva (6,142m), north face, attempt. In 2008, while climbing a new route on Mahindra in the Miyar Valley (AAJ 2009), we were captivated by a mysterious peak to the northwest. I later discovered it was Shiva, first climbed in 1988 by Junko Tabei. I...

Mount McKinley, Wickersham Wall Attempt. John Smolich, Craig Van Hoy and Andy Politz attempted the Canadian route on the Wickersham Wall. They carried everything to the base of the wall in six days from the Kahiltna Base Camp. They put in a high c...

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park—On September 8, Jim Bjorken (24), Dick Blankenbeckler (25), and Tom Creese (24) were climbing the Grand Teton. At about 10 a.m., when the party was above the notch behind the Molar Tooth, showers appeared to be m...

Selkirk Range of British ColumbiaGlacial Retreat. The change in ice and snow conditions parallels that in the Rockies, and the hot summer of 1941 is accelerating this in all areas. It is especially noticeable in the vicinity of Glacier, where the ...

Dongfang. On April 27, Horst Adamek, Josef Wissenberger, Karl Zöll, Jongbu Sherpa and I made the first ascent of Dongfang (7003 meters, 22,976 feet). This lies 14 kilometers north-northeast of Everest.Sigi Hupfauer, Deutscher Alpenverein