Mount Everest, North-Northeast Face, New Route. In May, a Russian team led by Sergei Antipine from Krasnojarsk, Siberia, made an ascent of Mount Everest by the north-northeast couloir to the left of the classical route via the North Col. This new ...
Altitude of Vinson Massif . The original elevation was established in the early 1960s by using photoalidade techniques based on altimeter elevations. At that time, the elevation was found to be 5140 meters or 16,863 feet. During the 1979-80 field ...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING UNROPEDWyoming, TetonsOn August 11, 1982, Randall Melvin (32) was a student in an ice-climbing seminar on the Teton Glacier. Melvin had just completed climbing a belayed ice pitch and was traversing, unroped, across a six-met...
Escudo, North Face, Bukowski Route. Our original goal was the striking north pillar of Escudo. In 30 days, Jack Lewis and I managed only seven pitches on the pillar because of continual bad weather. High winds cut through one of our fixed ropes an...
West of Knud Rasmussen Land, first ascents. A Brathay Exploration Group (U.K.) expedition, comprising Peter Clutton-Brock, Miles Doughty, Anna Griffith, Gavin Henderson, Thomas Moorcroft, Andrew and James Watson, and Paul Williams (leader), climbe...
FALL ON ICE, ILLNESSNew Hampshire, Stairs MountainOn November 24, 1984, Rob Walker (27) and Matt Peer had walked six kilometers to a remote ice climb on Stairs Mountain. After ascending twelve meters unroped, Walker apparently fainted as he was tr...
FALLING ROCK–DISLODGEDColorado, McCurdy State Park, BlockbusterMy partner was injured while climbing a route near “Blockbuster” on September 9. A loose block (about 6x6x4 feet) pulled while he was following. He struck his knee on the way down. Tha...
Split Mountain, “Horseshoe Arête.” While climbing Middle Palisade, Cameron Burns and I noticed a massive ridge coming off P 13,803, curving west, northwest and finally north, encircling Lake 11,599 and forming a huge north- facing bowl. In late Au...
Upuigma Tepui, Nido del Tiric-tiric. In February, after flying from Santa Elena der Uruyen to the Pemmon village of Yunek, two days’ walk took us to base camp. Then Kurt Albert, Bernd Arnold, Ivan Calderon, and I opened Nido del Tiric-tiric (350m,...
FALL ON ROCKColorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Escape ArtistA 37-year-old climber fell yesterday afternoon (October 23) at the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park while ascending the Escape Artist route on the North Rim wall. Nearby cl...
Alpamayo to north ridge, Sensations of History. On August 8 the Catalans Josep Escruela and Tino Tain climbed the gully to the right of the Ferrari Route. From the Alpamayo-Quitaraju pass they reached the start of the Spanish-Chilean Route, subseq...
California: (2) Devil's Slide, near San Francisco. On 24 September 1950 Harry E. Bates, 46, of Oakland, fell 75 feet to his death while trying to climb down the sheer face of this sea cliff. He had climbed about 20 feet down the side when he sudde...
Aguas Calientes, Second Ascent. Brian Baker and I formed the 1991 British Andean Volcanoes Expedition, which lasted from July 28 to September 7. We climbed Licancabur (5916 meters, 19,411 feet) on August 5, Aguas Calientes (5924 meters, 19,435 fee...
Over the course of a week in the Cordillera Central in late May, Beto Pinto and I opened three new lines of difficulty MD+. The north face of Suiricocha (5,495m) had nine pitches, finishing with a steep (80°+) pitch of ice and loose rock. The we...
Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) Attempt. We were Dr. Dave Bong, Gary Le Moine, Richard Soaper and Ethan Van Matre, lead team, and Jonell Geller, Bill and Dana Isherwood and I, support team. We reached the 17,400-foot Gasherbrum Base Camp at the conflue...
Northern Selkirks. August 1955 saw the Northern Selkirks under siege by a group of eight climbers, including Graham Matthews, David Michael, and Richard Irvin. The initial phase was the air drop of supplies at Tangier Summit and on the Sir Sandfor...
Fisher Towers, 1992-3. The major event of the Fisher Towers was Rob Slater’s repeat of all the towers listed in Eric Bjørnstad’s Desert Rock, including all the “Mystery Towers” and River Tower, a grand total of 23 formations— nothing short of outs...
LOOSE ROCK, UNROPED FALLAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Grassi Lakes areaWhile hiking with friends near Canmore on September 22, 1990, Mark undertook some solo climbing on the rock faces next to the second lake. He was about three meters off the ground ...
HAPE, FAILURE TO TURN BACKAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 11, a guided client (52) first started experiencing a productive cough and wet lung sounds at 11,200 feet. After a carry from 11,200 feet to 13,500 feet, he felt a bit better an...
Kunyang Chhish Tragedy. A Japanese expedition led by Seichi Wada tried unsuccessfully to climb Kunyang Chhish. On July 19 Takumi Onuma fell and was killed after his rope was cut by a falling block of ice. Further details are not available.