Udren Glacier. Alfons Hagn, leader, Franz Meiberger, Herbert Schmuck and Arne Stainer of the Lofer Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (Ö.A.V.) wanted to attempt P 6999 (22,963 feet) and the north peak of Istor-o-Nal (23,780 feet) from the souther...
Devils Thumb, Mount Burkett, Northeast Ridge and Other Peaks, Stikine Icefield. Dave Dahl, Bruce Tickell, Bill Zaumann and I spent three-and-a-half days in early July snow-shoeing up the Baird Glacier system from Thomas Bay to a previously placed ...
Nance Peak, Supercleavage. This peak, actually a dome, rises out of some of the most remote territory in Yosemite National Park. The 1500-foot south face is split by an enormous couloir leading straight to the summit. Tim Butler, Joe Kiskis and I ...
Bipeng Valley, Longgesali. On September 3-4 Saburo Mizobuchi, Keiichi Nagatomo, Naoki Ohuchi, and Tomohiro Sugai climbed a new route (400m, 13 pitches, IV AO) on Longgesali (a.k.a. Panyanjuhui, 5,420m). They also made unsuccessful attempts on the ...
McMillan Spire, North Face. This much talked-about face was finally-climbed on July 16 by Jerry Fuller and me on a three-day traverse of the Southern Picket Range. Our plan was to go light, with a minimum of food, cooking and equipment. We slept i...
Argentine-Chile boundary. The first ascent of Mt. Fitzroy (11,500 ft.) in Patagonia is reported to have been made in January 1952 by two French climbers, members of a party from the Section Lyon- naise of the Club Alpin Français. Fitzroy, a specta...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AthabascaOn August 30, 1980, Glen Parker (26), Dolores Parker (20), and Roy Walter (18) were ascending the normal route (north glacier, saddle, north ridge) on Mount Athabasca. They were roped together with...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION–BELAY ANCHOR, INADEQUATE BELAYBritish Columbia, Squamish, SickleTwo climbers were ascending a route called Sickle on the Apron on May 20. They were anchored to a conifer tree, about five to ten centimeters in di...
Cerro Heim Group Exploration and Ascent of Cerro Jani, Southern Patagonian Icecap. Our expedition was composed of Joe Browne, John Tincklepaugh, Alfredo Rikker, my brother Pedro and me. We explored the two possible routes of access to the Heim gro...
Nevado de las Virgenes, First Ascent, and Other Activity in La Choco Cota. Although previously reported as ascended, Nevado de las Virgenes, so christened by Theodor Herzog in 1911, remained unclimbed until June, when our Spanish expedition (Adolf...
Mount Sinyala. Mount Sinyala (5445 feet) was first climbed on April 11 by Mike Sherrick, Bill Amborn, Jim Wilkerson and me. Composed of Coconino sandstone and Kaibab limestone, the peak rises 1200 feet above the Sinyala Mesa on the south rim of th...
Routes on Fitz Roy. The following routes have been done on Fitz Roy:1. 1952, French (Terray et a1.), east face. M.A. Azema, The Conquest of FitzRoy, London: Andre Deutsch, 1957.2. 1965, Argentine (Fonrouge and Comesaña), supercouloir (supercana- l...
Peaks above Chhutidum Glacier. Michael H. Westmacott, his wife Sally, Dr. H. R. Thomlinson and I placed our Base Camp at the junction of the Kotgaz and Chhutidum glaciers on July 31. We had hoped to climb Lunkho West but from a reconnaissance camp...
Alaska Section. The slide shows in Anchorage have been a great way to bring our members and others together on a regular basis to network and find out what concerns the public has on climbing related issues. Eight of these popular shows were prese...
Streaked Wall, Lord Helmet. According to www.alpinist.com and confirmed by Brian McCray, he and Chad Umbel established Lord Helmet (9 pitches, VI 5.9 A4) over 11 days in May, spread over two trips. They drilled about 60 holes (including belay anch...
Swat Kobistan. A German expedition, Stefan Rausch, leader, Franz Grundner, Wolfgang Hasse, and Eugen Näf, climbed first in the Mankial and Siri Dara groups. They all climbed on July 7 the Central Peak (17,500 feet), a second ascent, and Mustagh (?...
Hanuman Tibba. This peak of 19,450 feet was climbed on October 5 by a ladies’ expedition led by M. C. Usha. The summit was reached by Miss Sobha Kapur, Miss Bharati Bannerji, Miss Sudha Talwar and Sherpa Lobsang. The expedition met bad weather all...
K2, South-Southeast Spur, Attempt. A seven-member Basque team led by Ramon Agirre (38) reached 7000 meters on the south-southeast spur but were turned back by too much snow and avalanches that came down from the Shoulder (8000 meters). While estab...
Staunings Alps, East Greenland. An expedition led by Toni Gobbi of twelve Italians climbed in the Staunings Alps. They arrived in the region in June. They climbed the following peaks, none of them first ascents: West Greenland Peak (8333 feet), Ke...
Huascarán Norte, North Face. After acclimatization climbs on Artesonraju and Alpamayo, Kurt Saurer and I on May 19 left the lake in the Llanganuco and walked up to the north face. We spent a bad night in a snowstorm without a tent. The next day we...