Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Nunavut Territory, Arctic Alpine Ascents on Bylot Island

Arctic Alpine Ascents on Bylot Island. During the past summer I was a member of an expedition sponsored by the Arctic Institute of North America and the New York Zoological Society. The expedition went to Bylot Island, north of Baffin Island at 73...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Aguja Poincenot (3,002m), Southeast Face, Via Russo

Aguja Poincenot (3,002m), southeast face, Via Russo. In 2011 Sergey Dashkevitch (29), Arkadiy Seregin (52), and I (45) attempted a new route on the east face of Poincenot but retreated in bad weather. We returned in 2012 having as our goal the lon...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Improper Procedure, Inadequate Belay, Fatigue, Miscommunication, Illinois, Crab Orchard National Wildlife Refuge

FALL ON ROCK, IMPROPER PROCEDURE, INADEQUATE BELAY, FATIGUE, MIS-COMMUNI CATIONIllinois, Crab Orchard National Wildlife RefugeOn May 31, 1989, an experiential education program was involved in the fourth day of a five day course being conducted in...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall or Slip on Rock, Failure to Follow Route, Fatigue, Darkness, North Carolina, Linville Gorge Wilderness, Shortoff Mountain, Paradise Alley

FALL OR SUP ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FATIGUE, DARKNESSNorth Carolina, Linville Gorge Wilderness, Shortoff Mountain, Paradise AlleyOn January 12, John Matthew (40) and Nathan Z. (30) both moderately experienced climbers, set off to climb M...


Book Reviews AAJ
Wilderness Skiing

Wilderness Skiing, by Lito Tejada-Flores and Allen Steck. San Francisco and New York: Sierra Club, 1972, 310 pages, 11 photographs, numerous drawings, $6.95Wilderness Skiing, hot off the presses of the Sierra Club’s publishing empire, is a timely ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Mali, Hombori Region; Hand of Fatima, Hombori Tondo and Naama Tondo Various New Routes

Hombori region; Hand of Fatima, Hombori Tondo and Naama Tondo various new routes. In January our team from the Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne traveled to the Hombori region of Mali, our goal being to put up new routes on the Hand of Fatima. We...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Pioneer Ridge, Mount McKinley

Pioneer Ridge, Mount McKinley. In June 1956 six of us made an attempt on Pioneer Ridge on Mount McKinley. The party consisted of Keith Hart (leader) the Australian, Leon Blumer, Pete Schoening, Al Krup, Keith Randall, and Donald Claunch. We left t...


In Memoriam ANAM
Washington, Snoqualmie Pass, Guye Peak

Washington, Snoqualmie Pass, Guye Peak. About 0800 on 25 March Shawn Taylor (21) and A1 Boullion (19) led their party for the summit of Guye Peak via a small gully on the southeast side. There were 20 people in all, about one-half of which had had...


Book Reviews AAJ
Close Calls: Climbing Mishaps and Near-Death Experiences

Close Calls: Climbing Mishaps and Near-Death Experiences. John Long. Helena, MT: Falcon Publishing, 1999. 182 pages. $12.95.John Long is a Yosemite hardman from the 1970s and the author or editor of some 17 books on rock climbing. In Rock Jocks, W...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock — Belay Failure (Unsecured Rope, Distraction), California, Yosemite Valley, Churchbowl

FALL ON ROCK - BELAY FAILURE (UNSECURED ROPE, DISTRACTION)California, Yosemite Valley, ChurchbowlOn Nov. 6, Betsey (20) and I, Mike (19), (pseudonyms) spent the day climbing at Churchbowl with friends. I had climbed in the park several times over ...


Book Reviews AAJ
A Climber's Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada

A Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada, by Howard Palmer and J. Monroe Thorington. Third edition. 12 mo.; xviii + 275 pages. New York: The American Alpine Club, 1940. Price $3.00 ($2.50 to A. A. C. members).The third edition of this ha...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Africa, Ethiopia, Nebelet Tower Group, New Routes

Nebelet tower group, new routes. Ethiopia: the birthplace of humanity, coffee, Emperor Haile Selassie, and … climbing? Maybe. The people of northern Ethiopia understand getting vertical: they have churches carved into sandstone pinnacles. To get t...


Feature Article AAJ
Lagunak Ridge, Ama Dablam

Lagunak Ridge, Ama DablamRandy HarringtonWE HAD originally planned on having six expedition members. One, however, was a no-show from the very start; another opted for a different climbing expedition after reaching Base Camp. This left four of us:...


Feature Article AAJ
Arctic Rage Pushing Through the Storm on the East Face of the Moose’s Tooth, Alaska

"Ben come out quick! You’re missing sun hour!” Kevin’s voice was muffled, as I was down in the snow cave chowing hot dogs, tortillas, and Nutella. Inertia was strong down in our subterranean home where gluttony and vices prevailed, but I couldn’t ...

| Published N/A


In Memoriam AAJ
Charles Theodore Dotter, M.D., 1920-1985

CHARLES THEODORE DOTTER, M.D.1920-1985Dr. Charles Theodore Dotter, chairman of the Department of Radiology at the Oregon Health Services University School of Medicine, died on February 15 at the age of 64.He was bom in Boston in 1920, graduated in...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Sikkim, New Icefall Climbing

New icefall climbing. In 2004, Adam George, Philippe Wheelock, and I (all from Colorado), with assistance from Kelsang Phuntsok and Tashi Sherpa from Sikkim, Carlene Grant from Canada, and Andreas Prammer from Austria undertook what we believe to ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mountaineering Periodicals: Mountain, Ascent, Climbing, Off Belay, Mountain Gazette

Mountaineering Periodicals: Mountain, Ascent, Climbing, Off Belay, Mountain GazetteIn an age when general periodicals falter, there appears to be a plunge into specialized literature. Environment, camping and mountaineering are included in this se...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Journals (The Alpine Journal, The Climber's Club Journal, The Scottish Mountaineering Journal, The Himalayan Journal, The New Zealand Alpine Journal, Appalachia, The Canadian Alpine Journal, Mazama, The Sierra Club Bulletin)

The JournalsWith the ever increasing activity in world mountaineering it has become more and more difficult to keep abreast of the literature in book form, and many readers are turning to the journals with their abridged accounts of large-scale ex...


Accident Reports ANAM
Dislodged Rock — Fall on Rock, Fatigue, Wyoming, Grand Teton, Black Dike

DISLODGED ROCK – FALL ON ROCK, FATIGUEWyoming, Grand Teton, Black DikeOn July 17 around 1200, Paul Iman (23) contacted Rangers G.R. Fletcher and D. Hardesty at the Lower Saddle of Garnet Canyon. He was returning from the Black Dike area about a qu...


Notes AAJ
Alps, Early American Ascents

Early American Ascents. (Additional notes follow, with page references to the book published by the Club in 1943.) P. 1: In 1748, the young Quaker, Francis Rawle, introduced the Philadelphia custom of making the Grand Tour, scions of wealth and ge...