P 6992, P 6911 and Bamchu. Base Camp was set up by the Japan Himalaya Mountaineering Association Expedition on a glacial lake at the end of the Changabang Glacier on August 31. After unsuccessful attempts were made on Changabang, thwarted by avala...
Gross Bühlenhorn, Furka Region, Switzerland. On August 26 Pedro Casanellas and I completed the first ascent of the “Via Professori,” a new line on the southwest face of the Gross Bühlenhorn. The line, which I had noticed in 1971 while ascending th...
The North Face of the MatterhornGraham R. ThompsonTHE alarm woke me slowly at one A.M. I turned on the cot and looked out the window. To my dismay the sky was full of stars. It was awful to have to roll out from under the blankets, but I would hat...
The Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon, ended their fiscal year with 2718 members. Climbing activities of the year included 157 climbs for the May-through-September summer season, four of which were cancelled because of bad weather. Twenty-s...
Logmun Tower, Dirt Box, previously unreported. In 2001, before making an attempt on the north ridge of Shingu Charpa, Nils Davis, Brian McCray, Brenton Warren, and I climbed two routes on the Logmun Tower. The Davis-Offenbacher route, Dirt Box, to...
LOSS OF CONTROL ON GLISSADE – FALL INTO CREVASSE/MOAT, POOR VISIBILITY, MISPERCEPTION, NO HARD HATWashington, Mount BakerOn July 2, my girlfriend Sheryl Costello (34) and I (45) climbed the Coleman Headwall route on Mount Baker in excellent condit...
SIERRA NEVADA RED SNOWWILLIAM H. Thomas, Scripps Institution of Oceanography1Author’s note: I am very grateful to the Gilkey Research Fund of the American Alpine Club, the Society of Sigma Xi, the University of California Water Resources Center an...
Portrait of an Explorer. Hiram Bingham, Discoverer of Machu Picchu. Alfred M. Bingham. Iowa State University Press, Ames, Iowa, 1989. 141 black and white photographs, 6 sketch maps, 382 pages. Hardbound. $29.95.Although Hiram Bingham was not the d...
Downward Bound: A Mad Guide to Rock Climbing, by Warren “Batso Harding, with illustrations by Beryl “Beasto” Knath. Englewood Cliffs: Prentice Hall, 1975. 204 pages, numerous photos and drawings. Price $7.95.Climbing autobiographies have never bec...
Kyajo Ri (6,186m), southwest ridge, possible first solo ascent; Teningbo (5,839m), first known ascent, north face. Eight Czech and Slovak climbers, led by Martin Otta, visited the Kyajo Glacier. Our aim was to repeat the southwest ridge of Kyajo R...
FALL ON ICE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, PLACED NO PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, FATIGUE Oregon, Mount Hood, Leutholds CouloirOn June 3, 1994, a party of five was climbing Leutholds Couloir on the west side of Mount Hood. The group reached the “hour...
The East Peak of LaPerouse and Mount BerthaLarry Nielson, UnaffiliatedWORKING in the Fairweather Range for an exploration mining company gave Dusan Jagersky and me the perfect opportunity for some exciting climbs. We made a few minor ascents such ...
Mount Bryce, Center Peak, Northwest Face. Hale and Winner climbed this peak’s 3600-foot northwest face in August. Approach was made via the Saskatchewan and Castleguard Glaciers. Instead of descending to Bryce Creek, a traverse was made left from ...
On November 3-4 Cas van den Gevel and I climbed the south-southeast face of Singu Chuli. We reached the south ridge at 6,350m but found the crest above so heavily fluted and corniced that we deemed it too dangerous to continue to the summit.Our ba...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT, MISCOMMUNICATION Nevada, Juniper Canyon, Red RocksOn November 11, three climbers were ascending Olive Oil (5.7), a seven pitch route in Juniper Canyon and were on the ...
High Himalaya: Unknown Valleys. Harish Kapadia. Indus Publishing Co., New Delhi, 1993. 335 pages, 17 pen-and-ink drawings, 24 maps. $30.The mail has just arrived. Harish Kapadia has graciously sent me a copy of his new book. I am swamped with work...
The Kangchenjunga Adventure, by F. S. Smythe, Victor Gollancz, Ltd., London, England, 1930. 404 pp. and 48 plates. 16/s.This brilliant book by the author of Climbs and Ski-Runs is the story of what looked like a forlorn enterprise from the outset....
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry Spire (1)— On July 1, Fritz Ermarth (19) and Greg Engstrom (19) were ascending the Durrance Ridge. Weather and climbing conditions were excellent. At approximately 3:30 p.m. Ermarth began the lead on th...
Ausangate, South Subsummit. After acclimatization, on August 13 we climbed the moraine of the glacier which comes off the south face of Ausangate and then traversed west through difficult ice slabs to the foot of a sérac barrier which crosses the ...
UNKNOWN ILLNESS Alaska, Mt. McKinleyOn July 27 at 5 p.m., I was contacted by Cliff Hudson of Hudson Air Service, Talkeetna, reporting a sick Japanese climber at 16,000 feet on the West Rib of Mt. McKinley. Ranger Bob Gerhard, on patrol at 16,000 f...