Sierra Register Committee. To carry on the work started in 1987 (see AAJ, 1988, pages 137-8), Mark Hoffman and I between February and April met with Dave Brower, Dick Leonard, Jules Eichorn and Hervey Voge to discuss problems which threatened the ...
Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, and Broad Peak, Ascents. A strong 20-member Japanese Gunma Mountaineering Association team and an equally strong team of 12 Nepalese Sherpas scaled the three Pakistani 8000ers, Gasherbrum I and II and Broad Peak, one a...
Kichatna Spires, mystery routes. Widely reported, including to the AAJ, were that three presumably new ice/mixed/snow couloir routes were climbed somewhere in the Tatina Glacier area of the Kichatna Spires, by U.K. climbers Mike “Twid” Turner (lea...
K2, South-Southwest Ridge Attempt. A strong, rather massive French expedition nearly climbed K2 by its very difficult south-southwest ridge. The leader was Bernard Mellet, the deputy leader, Yannick Seigneur and the others were Maurice Barrard, Pi...
Mountain Paths, by H. E. G. Tyndale. Edited with an introduction by Arnold Lunn for “The New Alpine Library.” x + 208 pages, 15 illustrations. London: Eyre and Spottiswoode, 1948. Price 12/6. This book is the final record of more than four decades...
Waiparous River Valley, Cryophobia. In February 2001 Shawn Huisman and I completed the first ascent of Cryophobia (V M8+ WI5+), the name meaning “fear of ice,” located in the remote Waiparous River Valley near the Ghost. We began working on this p...
WILLIAM B. ROSS1938 - 1969William Ross, along with six companions, was killed in an ice avalanche on the southeast ridge of Dhaulagiri on April 28, 1969 He was an inspiring companion, a kind physician, and a promising climber.Bill was born August ...
A New Route on Devils Tower. On September 6th John Durrance brought a party of four to Devils Tower, Wyo., to attempt the climb made a year before by Wiessner and House, and on meeting the park superintendent, Mr. Newell M. Joyner, was told that t...
Baffin is a landscape of frozen fjords, exotic wildlife, massive big walls, and sea ice as far as the eye can see. I went to the island in early April and did not leave until the second week in June, having the experience of a lifetime along...
Two Expeditions in the Northern PurcellsPETER ROBINSONIn late August 1953 four friends and I completed a high-level traverse through a large unexplored section of the northern part of the Purcell Range of British Columbia.1 Unfortunately the weath...
Some of the remotest and wildest summits on earth are located in Alaska, and climbing them is a great adventure. Our goal was to reach, climb, and exit Taku D Peak, between the Taku and Matthes Glaciers in the middle of the Juneau Icefield, withou...
Dark Shadows Falling. Joe Simpson. The Mountaineers: Seattle, 1997. 27 color photos. 207 pages. $24.95.Joe Simpson’s Dark Shadows Falling is his third non-fiction work since his mega classic Touching the Void. This latest book probes what Simpson ...
Andavite/Chopiraju Central, Fight Club. In the summer we, both 21, spent several weeks in the Cordillera Blanca. During our first stay in the Cayesh Valley (climbing Maparaju, San Juan, and Andavite’s South Ridge) we got a good view of the south f...
The Norwegian Expedition to Tirich Mir. In 1949 two Norwegian climbers, Arne Randers Heen and I, made a reconnaissance of Tirich Mir. It was long since there had been a Norwegian expedition to the highest mountains in Asia. In October 1907 Rubenso...
The Mountaineers. Most of the formal climbing activity in The Mountaineers is centered on the climbing courses that the club has been conducting since the early 1930’s. A basic course is presented for those who have limited experience in the mount...
Annapurna South Face. An international climbing team with French sponsorship, L’Esprit d’Equipe, has been assembled for six expeditions to seven 8000-meter peaks for a three-year period, 1988 to 1990. Several of the climbers were previously member...
Cajavilca III, Southeast Face, and Contrahierbas, attempt. John Pearson and I accessed the glacial basin below the east faces of Nevados Contrahierbas and Cajavilca from the northeast, and I am pretty sure we were the first climbers to do so. It’s...
The Trekker’s Guide to the Himalaya and Karakoram. Hugh Swift. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1982. 342 pages, black and white photographs, maps, bibliography. $10.95.This book covers a large geographic area, so naturally the descriptions of in...
Sickle Moon Attempt, Kishtwar Himal. The five-man Tokyo Agricultural University Expedition, led by Hiroshi Yamamoto, had Sickle Moon (21,568 feet) as its objective. They were turned back by a rock peak with a 1650-foot blue-ice slope and returned ...
1951-051959-052006 2006USACAN.USA CAN.TerrainRock431052868Snow226835536Ice2541585River1430Unknown22100Ascent or DescentAscent285358773Descent219237135Unknown248131Other™700Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock340729060Slip on snow or ice97120719Fall...