Huantsán, East Ridge. August 8 saw the meeting of two separate expeditions at the foot of Huantsán. One group comprised 13 French, nine men and four women, and the other, three French, two Americans, an Australian and a Peruvian porter. Thus with ...
Washington—Mt. Stuart: Robert Grant (19) and Paul Brikoff (20) set out early on August 10, 1952 to climb Mt. Stuart (9,470 feet). The weather was clear at the start. They were climbing by the west ridge when a storm overtook them. It became cloudy...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Boulder CanyonOn February 9, Gary Wheeler (33) fell 15 meters and slid another 30 meters, landing at the base of a waterfall and against a tree.Wheeler had climbed the waterfall, tied a rope around a tree...
Labuche Kang. Labuche Kang lies between Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. The joint expedition of the Tibetan Mountaineering Association and the Himalayan Association of Japan was led by Cheng Tian Liang with deputy leader Ken’ichi Yamamori. There were ni...
Austvagoy, Alkoholvegen, Prohibition and Drink it Up. Four young Slovak climbers, Andrej Harsany (21), Jan Harsany (16), Peter Nes- ticky (20) and Marcel Zemko (19) visited the Lofoten Islands from June 19 to July 15. On June 29 they put up two ne...
El Capitan, New Route. It was reported that Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe and Lori Reddle put up a new A5 route on El Capitan in November. The route climbs 14 pitches from Lay Lady Lay Ledge to the rim. The route took 10 days and features a crux p...
East Peak of Ingalls Peak, Southeast Face. This ascent was made in the fall by Gene Prater, Don Anderson, and Jim Richardson. There was some class 5 climbing involved, and the total ascent required slightly over four hours.
Great Trango Tower, Northeast Buttress. The northeast buttress of the Great Trango Tower was successfully climbed by Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Doeli in 1984 but tragically they both died during the descent. Despite various tries, t...
Mrigthuni. An Indian group from Serampore climbed Mrigthuni (22,490 feet) on September 28. Nitai Roy, Sisir Ghosh, Swapan Sikdar, Rajani Rakshit, Ranjit Rit, Yadav Singh and Sher Singh reached the top.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Big Kangaroo, South Face. Although it is probably the largest face on Kangaroo Ridge, the south wall of its highest point is seldom seen by climbers since it is shielded by the crested towers of the south summit ridge. To reach the foot of the wal...
Miyar Valley, upper glacier exploration and short new routes. A four-strong party from England and Scotland (Graham Little, Jim Lowther, Kevin Kelly, and myself) visited the Miyar Valley in May. The area offers large granite walls in a mountain se...
P 6193, Bhagirathi Group, and Manda II Attempts. From August 20 to September 30, six Slovenes led by Marko Vrevc attempted two unclimbed faces in the Gangotri region. They split into two parties. Matjaž Jamnik and Miha Kajzelj tried to complete th...
Various Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca. Our group's objective was to visit two valleys: Quebrada Ishinca and Laguna Paron, the latter for a possible wall route on the Sphinx and the former for its numerous alpine faces. In Quebrada Ishinca, our ...
FALL ON SNOW, OFF ROUTE, INEXPERIENCEDWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle TetonOn May 30, 1992, a climber (20) and his partner were on the way down what they thought was the Southwest Couloir of the Middle Teton, at 1630 and fell about 800 ...
This Sculptured Earth (The Landscape of America), by John A. Shimer, New York: Columbia University Press, 1959. 248 pages, ills. Price $7.50. Beautifully legible type, and a continuity of description on the processes which produced our country’s w...
The Titan, The Wasteland. It was reported that Walt Shipley and Bill Lee nailed “what may be the Titan’s last natural line,” The Wasteland (A3+ 5.8), an 1,100-foot nine-pitch route that required roughly 35 bolts. It lies on the tower’s west face, ...
Devils Tower, The Sabre. Tex Bossier and I made this new route on the west face in six hours of difficult climbing. It lies between the McCarthy and Vulture routes. It follows a thin aid crack for 300 feet, with belays in slings, passes a roof on ...
Chain of Mont Blanc. A new hut with capacity of 100-150, for summer climbing and spring skiing, is to be built near the site of the present Grands Mulets, and a similar structure will also be placed at 2600 m. on the Trélatête Glacier. On August 1...
Rainbow Wall, Sauron ’s Eye and Emerald City. Brian McCray and I had eyed the most obvious feature of the Rainbow Wall, a huge arch in the center of the wall that expands up half the wall, for some time. Mike Ward had started a route on the right ...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE—Wyoming, The Tetons. David Jensen (age unknown) signed out at the Jenney Lake Ranger Station on July 4 to climb the North East Snowfields route of Mount Owen. He was unsuccessful, and near the top of the Run — Don t Wa...