FALL ON ROCK, FAILED TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, NO HARD HATColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett PeakOn July 28, Frederick Sperry (28) was attempting to lead the second pitch of the Culp Bossier Route (III, 5.8) on Hallett P...

Makalu, West Face, Attempt, Ascent and Tragedy. A 30-member team that had as its goal an alpine style ascent of Makalu’s west face, with Makalu via Makalu La as an acclimatization climb, was arranged in Russia last spring. The essential part of th...

California, Mt. Shasta. On 21 August, William John Mihm, Jr. and Stephan Tillman were climbing Mt. Shasta on the North West slope with improper equipment. When they got to the 12,000-foot level they decided to start back. They were standing at the...

Goat Perch, Weekend Warrior. On June 5 Dave Hopper and I made the first ascent of Weekend Warrior (IV 5.8 Ml-2) on the Goat Perch, in the Sawtooth Mountains. The route followed the narrow, northeast-facing couloir between the Goat Perch and Eagle ...

Baffin Island, A Glimpse into the Future. Prolific big waller Mark Synnott has made three trips to Baffin Island, including last year’s (see above) on which he made an aerial reconnaissance of potential objectives. An overview of some of what the ...

Auyuittuq National Park, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. This was a busy climbing season. Nine mountaineering groups totaling 39 people from five countries visited the park for climbing or skiing. Mountain climbers comprised 9.4% of the park’...

FALL ON SNOWBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Powder MountainOn May 26, 1983, Scott Hagarty (21) was ski mountaineering with three friends on the Powder Mountain snowfield. He fell while skiing down a 30 degree corn snow slope. His ski bindings r...

Tana and Bremner glaciers, first ascents. On June 8 Paul Claus landed Mike Crafts, Phil Tatman, Ben Traxler, and me on the col between the Tana and Bremner glaciers. Paul had not landed before in this area, which is covered on the Bering Glacier q...

FALL ON ROCK, HAND-HOLD BROKE OFFAlberta, Banff National Park, Lake Minnewanka Valley, Devils Gap, MacadamiaOn July 31, a 30-year-old climber suffered serious injuries after falling 40 feet while leading Macadamia (5.9) near Devil’s Gap in Banff N...

Himalchuli Tragedy. A nine-man Japanese expedition, led by Hisatoshi Takabayashi, hoped to make a new route on Himalchuli, the south face to the west ridge. Shunji Nishida and two Sherpas reached 21,325 feet on the west face on September 30 where ...

McKinley South Face, New Route. Josef Rakoncaj and I came to Alaska at the end of April. We flew to the Kahiltna Glacier. We climbed slowly as high as Denali Pass on the West Buttress. After acclimatizing to the altitude and cold, on May 17, Rakon...

Landscapes of Alaska, by members of the U. S. Geological Survey, in cooperation with the National Park Service, U. S. Department of the Interior, edited by Howel Williams, 148 pages, 23 illustrations, 6 maps, 3 figures, glossary and index. Berkele...

On October 14, Dawa Lama Sherpa and I climbed the southwest face of Chulu West by a direttissima. From a camp at 4300 meters, we made a reconnaissance toward the glacier at the base of the face. We found the glacier full of séracs and open crevass...

San Braullo, West Glacier; Alccachaya, South Ridge; Quimsachata Este, Via de las Vizcachas. In July and August I led an Andes expedition group in the southern half of the Vilcanota. We traveled to the mountains via the city of Cuzco and the villag...

Mt. Shkhelda, Second West Peak, North Face, New Route. In the beginning of January, I started my new project, “Open Caucasus,” the goal of which is to promote an interest in the Caucasus region through a series of extreme first ascents from 2001 t...

Huayna Potosí, Probable New Route on the West Face, Cordillera Real. Martin Wolf and I camped at the foot of the west face of Huayna Potosí and on July 28 started at 5100 meters up a relatively objectively safe spur on the right side of the face. ...

Cerro Torre, Spiral Route. Since my first visit to Patagonia, in 1998, I dreamed of linking the Marsigny-Parkin to the Ferrari (Ragni di Lecco) to the top of Cerro Torre, which was first done by Kelly Cordes and Colin Haley. I never had the opport...

Mount Everest Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Joan Massons, Antoni Ricart, Nil Bohigas, Jordi Canals, Jordi Camprubí, Oscar Cadiach, Jo- sep María Durán, Lluís Gómez, Enric Lucas, Miquel Sánchez, Antoni Sors and me as leader. Our route was...

Aconcagua, 2002-2003 season overview. Aconcagua Park saw a record 5,519 people enter for trekking or climbing, 20 percent more than last year. This increase can be explained by the devaluation of the Argentine peso and by a series of improvements ...

Gorichen, Pachakshiri Range. A 12-man team from the Assam Regiment was led by Captains R.K. Bhardwaj and G.V.S. Prasad. Base Camp was set up at Merathang beyond Ghokarsomon on September 25. They established two high camps. On October 5, Captain Bh...