West Tumwater Rock, Tumwater Canyon. This rock is located several miles west of Piton Tower, above the highway. Fred Beckey, Ed Cooper, and Don Claunch found some 40 feet of medium difficult tension climbing, in addition to some class 5 on the asc...
Sakar Sar, second ascent. Kunihiko Sato made a solo ascent of the 6,272m Sakar Sar via the southeast ridge. This remote peak, which lies on the Afghan border in the northern Batura Muztagh and is approached via the Chapursan and Sakarjerab Valleys...
Citizen of Two Worlds, by Mohammad Ata-Ullah, with a foreword by Lowell Thomas. New York: Harper & Brothers, 1960. 285 pages. Price $5.00.“Under the shadow of this grim mountain, East and West had not only met, but had fused into one.” So writ...
In the Bugaboo GroupEaton CromwellTHIS seldom-visited group is surely deserving of greater popularity. The climbing compares favorably with that of the minor European centers, and it is easy to reach; our camp being only a day and a half from Spil...
The North Face of Mount RobsonDan DavisWhen Pat Callis and I arrived at the Robson Coffee Shop on the morning of August 6, we were fortunate to have a beautifully clear view of the mountain, apparently the first for days, but we were disheartened ...
The Wall of ForgetfulnessLotus Flower Tower—Logan MountainsHarthon H. Bill“How sweet it were, hearing the downward streamWith half shut eyes ever to seemFalling asleep in a halfdream!To dream and dream like yonder amber lightWhich will not leave t...
NOEL EWART ODELL 1890–1987Striding up through the sun-scented evergreens toward Nanda Devi in 1936, I remember Odell exclaiming, “God! It’s good to be back.” It was twelve years since his great effort on Everest had been hailed by the mountaineeri...
Baintha Brakk, southeast ridge, attempt; Choktoi Spire, probable first ascent. In early June Paul McSorley and we arrived at a 4,400m base camp on the Choktoi Glacier, intent on climbing the southeast ridge of Baintha Brakk (a.k.a. The Ogre, 7,285...
AAC, Oregon Section. Jeff Alzner led the K2000 Expedition to the North Ridge of K2 in the summer. The climb was frustrated above 7350 meters by persistent bad weather and poor conditions. A succession of storms prevented the large team from making...
FALL ON ROCK, MISCOMMUNICATIONNevada, Red Rock Canyon NCA, The GalleryIn late November, this incident arose from belayer error and miscommunication. The climber’s belayer was deaf, while the climber could hear. They had some form of sign language ...
Kamet, southeast face, Samuri Direct. One of the outstanding climbs of the year was the first ascent of Kamet’s previously unattempted but much admired southeast face, by the Japanese couple Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi. They left advance base...
JOHN NORMAN COLLIE1859-1942Professor Collie, an Honorary Member of the American Alpine Club, was born on September 10th, 1859, and died early in December, 1942, at Sligachan, Skye. He was buried at Struan beside his old guide, John Mackenzie.Colli...
High Altitude Pulmonary EdemaNew horizonsby Robert B. Schoene, M.D., The University of WashingtonOver the last three decades, increased awareness and education have lessened the instances of high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) encountered by othe...
Jirishhanca. The members of our expedition were Felix Kuen, Werner Haim, Adi Sager and myself as leader, all climbing guides in the Austrian Army. We arrived by sea at Lima on May 7 and on the 18th drove by private bus to Chiquián. With 23 donkeys...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTION PULLEDOUT, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Cookie CliffOn May 26, Stephen Ross (32) was mortally injured in a fall while leading Beverly’s Tower, a one-pitch 5.10a route at Cookie Cliff.Bever...
Factory Butte, Clarification. I was a interpretive park ranger at Capitol Reef National Park from June, 1992, through October, 1994. During my time there, I set my sights on a prominent monolith called Factory Butte.Rumors among the locals were th...
Kongur East (7,300m ), ascent to 7,300m and proposed name for highpoint on east ridge of Kongur (7,719m). Kongur is the main summit of the Kun Lun range, in the southwestern part of China. It is a complex massif with a long span of elevations over...
The Magic PillarA pure alpine-style first ascent of the west ridge of Jannu in NepalSergey KofanovThe impossible is possible. There was a time when man thought that flying was impossible. There was a time when I thought it was impossible for two m...
The Rocky Mountains of the United StatesHoward PalmerALTHOUGH the Rocky Mountains constitute perhaps the most important topographical feature of the western United States, few people realize their true extent, or the vast congeries of peaks which ...
True ValueFinding beauty and danger on the first alpine-style ascent of Torre Egger and a new route on Cerro Fitz Roy, Patagonia.Tim O’NeillI blindly struggle to find a small foothold on life. Exposure looms like a vulture circling fresh road kill...