Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, San Juan Mountains, Peak 13,134', Ski Line

Peak 13,134', Ski Line. In late October I recruited Dave Ahrens to help me finish a project I started years ago, the north face of Peak 13,134' in the northern San Juans. The face can be clearly seen from Dallas Divide, and I had made several atte...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Ladakh-Kashmir, Ski Traverse of Northern India from Srinagar to Manali

Ski Traverse of Northern India from Srinagar to Manali. From February 27 to March 30 Norwegians Odd Eliassen and Erik Boehlke and I made a 600-km journey on skis from Srinagar in Kashmir through Ladakh, Zanskar and Lahoul to Manali. Our commitment...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huarochirí, Various First Ascents

Cordillera Huarochirí, Various First Ascents. This range, known locally as the Cordillera Pariacacca, is located south of the mining town of La Oroya. Names for the range, such as Cordillera Central and Nevados de Cochas, that have been applied by...


Club Activities AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers

Iowa Mountaineers. Another active year, 1994 saw 4056 individuals participating in the club’s instructional courses and climbing outings. Many of the instructional courses were offered for University of Iowa academic credit. Membership of approxim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Remote Areas Summary

Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. The year 2002 was one of remarkable activity in the Coast Mountains, both in southwest British Columbia near Vancouver and in remoter areas. Most new-route activity in the “greater” Coast Mountains, as always...


Feature Article AAJ
Foraker's Southwest Ridge

THE massive southwest ridge of Foraker is a labyrinthine collection of ribs and buttresses which, with meandering nonchalance, rises out of several different glaciers headed in several different directions. The point of confluence for these subo...

| Keywords
| Published 1977 | Author Erik LeRoy


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Proboscis, Southeast Face, Original Route (and Variation), Free Ascent North America, Canada, Logan Mountains

In late July, with help from American Alpine Club grants, Emily Stifler, Lorna Illingworth, and I helicoptered to the base of Mt. Proboscis in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, Northwest Territories. We spent 25 days in the area and flew o...

| Published 2010 | Author Madaleine Sorkin, AAC


Book Reviews AAJ
Climber's Guide to the Teton Range

Climber’s Guide to the Teton Range. Leigh N. Ortenburger and Reynold G. Jackson. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1995. 414 pages, $39.00.There are guidebooks and then there are guidebooks. Some are samplers, leading you into a region and describing a f...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Clark Range, Yosemite National Park

(21) California, Clark Range, Yosemite National Park. On 8 August Tom Opperman (21) left Tuolumne Meadows area, planning to hike to Merced Lake, then to climb Mt. Clark, traverse the east sides of Grey and Red Peaks, hike to Glacier Point, and ret...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Kangikitsoq Fjord, Tupilak Tower, Sandro e Vito; Lorenzo Peak, First Ascent, Freedom Pillar Route

Kangikitsoq Fjord, Tupilak Tower, Sandro e Vito; Lorenzo Peak, first ascent, Freedom Pillar route. “In the footsteps of Vikings” (Mark Richey, AAJ 2001) was the inspiration for our 2004 to trip in Greenland. In the first week of bad weather Sergio...


Feature Article AAJ
Northern Cordillera Blanca

Northern Cordillera BlancaWilliam Katra, UnaffiliatedTHE three of us were in agreement. We had one of the most unorganized—but not disorganized—expeditions ever to attempt big things in the Andes. Frankly, we liked it that way, with a minimum of h...


Feature Article AAJ
The Ascent of Mt. Steele

The Ascent of Mt. SteeleWalter A. Wood, Jr.ABOUT 40 miles north of Mt. Logan, in Yukon Territory, lies a group of peaks which, while more publicized neighbors have been visited, climbed and studied, has remained comparatively neglected. Due to the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock/Snow, Climbing Unroped, Inexperience — Wyoming, Wind Rivers

FALL ON ROCK/SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Wind RiversThe following report was sent in by Mark Dale, who was also involved in searching for the victim in the previous report. Dale and his climbing partner, Jeff Hunt, cut their plann...


Notes AAJ
Correspondence

M.P.O. 1314, Edmonton, Alta., Dec. 9, 1943. Dear Dr. Thorington:I’ve just written to H. E. G. Tyndale, Editor of A. J., suggesting that as soon after the war as possible there should be a joint Anglo-American Expedition to Mt. Everest. This should...


Feature Article AAJ
Modern Yosemite Climbing

Modern Yosemite ClimbingYvon ChouinardYosemite climbing is the least known and understood and yet one of the most important schools of rock climbing in the world today. Its philosophies, equipment and techniques have been developed almost independ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Climbers and Hikers Guide to the World's Mountains

Climbers and Hikers Guide to the World’s Mountains. Michael R. Kelsey, Kelsey Publishing Company (Springville, Utah), 679 pages, 318 maps. $17.95.I recall discussing with a climbing friend many years ago the relative merits of specialization versu...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, P 12,606, Fairweather Range

P 12,606, Fairweather Range. On April 24 Bill Sumner, Mike Heath and I reached Base Camp at 6500 feet on the Fairweather Glacier, hoping to climb either Mount Salisbury (12,170 feet), P 12,606 or both. Continual bad weather pinned us down for the ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Rock, Improper Technique, Improper Instruction, Exceeding Abilities, No Hard Hat, North Carolina, Table Rock

SLIP ON ROCK, IMPROPER TECHNIQUE, IMPROPER INSTRUCTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HAT North Carolina, Table Rock(On September 20,1986, Elizabeth Crosscope [35] was climbing with two friends [35 and 32] in an area known as “The Devil’s Courthous...


Accident Reports ANAM
Trip/Fall on Snow—Twice, Unable to Self-arrest—Fall into Crevasse, Washington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham Glacier

TRIP/FALL ON SNOW–TWICE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST–FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierOn July 7 at 0720, John Lucia (31), a guide with Rainier Mountaineering Incorporated (RMI), was leading a rope team up the Ingraham Glacier...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, The 1931 Mountaineering Season in Grand Teton National Park

The 1931 Mountaineering Season in Grand Teton National ParkThe popularity of the Tetons has reached a point where it is something of a problem to keep tab of all the ascents made each season, but through the zeal of the national park rangers stati...