Zebak Area. Two other Polish expeditions were in the Zebak area. The Krakow Academic Alpine Club Expedition was led by Marian Bala. On July 27 S. Jaworski and M. Rusinow climbed Kohe Ratkhut (c. 19,160 feet; Wala-Zebak 217) and Rakhe Har, East and...
Aguja Guillaumet, All-Woman Ascent. In 1994, Argentines Marcela Antonucci and Patricia Malatesta made the first all-woman ascent of the Argentine route on the northwest spur of the Aguja Guillaumet, which was first climbed in 1965 by José Luis Fon...
P 4810, 1000 Years of Russian Christianity, Piramidalny and Other Peaks, Pamir Alai, Kirgizia. Tierry Schmitter, Matthijs van Hasselt, Hans Lanters and I climbed many peaks during our five-week stay in the Asan region. Together with our hosts from...
Redgarden Wall, Le Void, Eldorado Canyon. Le Void, a spectacular and long-standing aid climb, was done all-free late this August. The ascent involved substantial difficulties, most notably the previously freed 5.11 section and a leaning hand crack...
Kalanka, north face attempt. This 2,000-meter face has only a single route, climbed by a Czechoslovakian team using fixed ropes in 1977 during the mountain’s second ascent. Several teams have failed to climb the north buttress, a line in the middl...
Fluted Peak, Karcha Nala. K.V. Mohan led an expedition to this peak (6159 meters, 20,207 feet). Mohan reached the summit on August 20 with porters Moti and Vijay.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal
MICHAEL KOSHUTA1956-1990On this fall morning in Colorado, I get up to light the wood stove and fix a cup of coffee. I sit down to a view out the window of hillsides sprinkled with the colors of autumn, the pines and the newly whitened peaks. The h...
Howser Spire: New Routes. On 23 July 1946 F. D. Ayres, J. C. Oberlin, Edward Little and D. M. Woods climbed Howser Spire (10,950 ft.) by a new route. From a bivouac at the foot of the W. ridge of Pigeon Spire, they left at 5.30 a. m.; and they mad...
El Capitan, Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys. In August, Boulos Ayad, Tyson Hausdoerffer and I managed to establish an 11-pitch new route on the southeast face of El Capitan that we named Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys (VI 5.10 PDH). The route joins Atlan...
Beware the FutureRobert HoranIN THE EARLY 1980s, Boulder, Colorado area standards for free climbing began to rise. Now, well into the 80s, the standards have sky-rocketed. Once again, Boulder’s free climbers are among the country’s leaders of diff...
Cerro Almirante Nieto, West Face. Ben Webster (Canada) and Sergio Echevarría (Chile) climbed the west face of Cerro Almirante Nieto in November, 1996, in six hours without a rope. It was a hard hike on snow and rocks. They spent four days in base ...
HENRY IVES BALDWIN1896-1992Henry Baldwin was bom in Saranac Lake, N.Y. and brought up in the Adirondacks, where he was one of the founders of the Adirondack Mountain Club. He was one of the early enthusiastic skiers, learning and perfecting the te...
Climbing with a friend is great. Climbing with four friends even better. We inevitably come away tired from cranking and laughing. Jean-Baptiste Assier’s black belt in judo allowed us to enter nightclubs without worrying about our safet...
Little Switzerland, Various First Ascents. From June 20-July 10, Bill Gamble, Mark Davis, Chris Giles, and I established three new routes in the Little Switzerland area. Eat the Queen (V 5.9 A2+) on the Throne ascends a line through the prominent ...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT— HIKING BOOTS—AND NO HARD HATWest Virginia, River RocksOn April 20, Mark Williamson (25) had finished a day of climbing and had already changed from his climbing shoes to his hiking boots. He re...
Sir George Everest’s 200th BirthdayAudrey Salkeld, The Alpine ClubSIR GEORGE EVEREST was bom two hundred years ago. It is well known that in 1849 reports reached Everest’s successor as Superintendent of the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India, A...
Dobzebo, first ascent, via southwest ridge. When our team of four, comprising Alpine Club members Derek Buckle, Alasdair Scott, Martin Scott, and Bill Thurston, were searching for new climbing opportunities, we looked no farther than Tibet. Requir...
Climbing and Exploration in the Northern PurcellsROBERT C. WEST, JR. and PETER ROBINSON Spillimacheen and Carbonate RangesIn the summer of 1952, looking southeast into the Purcells from Mt. Sir Donald in the Selkirks, we noticed some attractive-lo...
FALL ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Sargents RidgeThe Mount Shasta area had a late winter start with very dry conditions on the mountain. The ridge routes, which are popula...
Peak 13,134', Ski Line. In late October I recruited Dave Ahrens to help me finish a project I started years ago, the north face of Peak 13,134' in the northern San Juans. The face can be clearly seen from Dallas Divide, and I had made several atte...