Kumbhakarna (Jannu). Our team was made up of Elizabeth Julliard, Marion Gaillard, Gérard Auger, Jean-Robert Grasso, Mario Paffumi, Frédéric Vallet, Michel Vincent and me. We trekked for eleven days from Shidua to Ghunsa. After the storm, which lef...
Eiger: Wall of Death. Arthur Roth. W.W. Norton, New York, 1982. 350 pages, black-and-white photographs. $15.95.According to the jacket cover, this book of the complete story of the assaults on the Eiger will easily become the most popular climbing...
Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-661959-661967TerrainU.S.A.CAN.U.S.A.CAN.Rock58228521Snow32426533River3000Unknown0210Ascent or DescentAscent 44330481Descent 41222523Unknown 54460Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock33414271Failure of ...
HAPSThe Arctic Institute High Altitude Physiology Study on Mount LoganCharles S. Houston, M.D.THE small group of scientists who met in New York that fall day in 1966 were intrigued by the invitation “To talk about the feasibility of establishing a...
Annapurna IV, North Ridge Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Curt Hewitt, Bob Wilson, Craig John, Ken Bures, Jean Ellis, Al Chambard, Richard Wright, Charles Peck, Dan Holle, LaVerne Woods, Jeff Shropshire, Paul Slota, Jan Cover, Bill Thompso...
What went on before the German Himalayan Expedition 1964 was the same as with other expeditions: high hopes, intense expectations, obstacles, disappointments. It finally seemed in the summer of 1963 that our objective, route of approach and person...
The Ultimate Mountains, by Thomas Weir. 98 pages, 76 photographs, and 4 sketch maps. London: Cassell & Co., Ltd., 1953.Thomas Weir was a member of the Scottish Mountaineering Expedition to Garhwal in 1950 and this brief book is his record of i...
On Saturday, November 10, Peter Noble (44) and I, Scott Berry (37), set out to climb the Southeast Buttress (five or six pitches, 5.6) to the summit of Cathedral Peak (10,911 feet). I had been bagging peaks and leading trad routes up to 5.9 fo...
The Torres del Brujo area is situated in the Chilean Andes, south of Santiago, in the massif of Cerro Portillo (4,850m). The starting point is the small town San Fernando, located in the province Region VI, 150km from the capital. From San Fernand...
Peak 11,793, Twenty Lakes Wall. Above a magnificent unnamed lake east of Mount Roberts, this face lies to the north, an interesting wall but quite overshadowed by Roberts. Eric Bjørnstad made the first ascent on July 6, using a series of short wal...
The Great Couloir on EverestJames WickwireWITH THE DECISION of the People’s Republic of China in 1979 to open its autonomous regions, including Tibet, to non-Chinese mountaineers, new opportunities to climb Mount Everest were presented. A few mont...
Ten to RememberA thousand climbs couldn’t capture the richness of our last century.So here are 10 to get us started.While editing the stories that follow I had to start deleting the word “inspire”—it just came up too often. In fact, the I-word app...
Changwatang and Nalakankar, First Ascents, and Exploration of the Chandi, Nalakankar and Takphu Himal. We were granted climbing permission for Nalakankar, but ours was the first expedition to the peak since 1963. Why? In the revised Climbing Regul...
Climbing in the Cordillera Blanca. Netherlanders M.A. Bonhomme, M.A. Briet, K.E.J. Dijk, P. Dekker, R. Staaftjes, J.K. Richert, H. Tollenaar and A.C.A. van Helbergen climbed the south (higher) summit of Alpamayo by the north ridge and over the nor...
Ski traverse, five first and two second ascents. We should have been in Tibet. That’s what we’d planned. But after the riots in Lhasa, it was no surprise to find our permit withdrawn and, soon after, the borders closed. We realized that only Kyrgy...
MOHAMMAD AKRAM 1929-1959(It is appropriate to include this obituary since Captain Akram was being proposed for membership.—Editor.)When the 1958 American Karakoram Expedition requested the Pakistan Army to assign two mountaineers as members of the...
ERNANI FAÈ1911-1983Ernani Faè was born in May 1911 in Belluno, Italy. From Belluno, the beautiful capital of the Dolomites, it is easy to reach the valleys and famous peaks. Thus, Ernani Faè, as a teenager, started to climb together with friends. ...
Dhaulagiri. A very competent Swiss expedition of the Akademischer Alpen Club Zürich failed to reach the summit of Dhaulagiri (26,795 feet) in Nepal. The group under the leadership of Bernhard Lauterberg consisted of Dr. Ruedi Pfisterer, André Roch...
For Almaty (Kazakhstan) climbers, the Zailiskiy Alatau in the northern Tien Shan is our most accessible mountain range and the foundation of our mountaineering. Even though roads reach 3,000m, climbing routes can be long and difficult; they allow ...
1951-06USA1959-04CAN.2007USA2007CAN.TerrainRock437852875Snow230435532Ice2591587River1430Unknown22100Ascent or DescentAscent292658768Descent222737146Unknown249130OtherNB-700Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock346729055Slip on snow or ice99020720Fall...