UNKNOWN ILLNESS Alaska, Mt. McKinleyOn July 27 at 5 p.m., I was contacted by Cliff Hudson of Hudson Air Service, Talkeetna, reporting a sick Japanese climber at 16,000 feet on the West Rib of Mt. McKinley. Ranger Bob Gerhard, on patrol at 16,000 f...
Gothic Arches Buttress, Brazos River Box Canyon. The virtually unknown box canyon of the Brazos River in northern New Mexico is one of the most spectacular gorges in all of North America. The east-facing wall of the canyon rises 2200 feet above th...
STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, DARKNESS, WEATHERCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Royal ArchesOn May 28, Kevin Calvert (18) and Kacee Fujinami (19) were benighted while descending Royal Arches. They were able to complete the descent early...
The Ascent of Mt. St. Agnes(Alaska, 1938)Bradford WashburnTOWERING in a broad arc about the deep fjords of Prince William Sound stand the Chugach Mountains, magnificent western ramparts of the St. Elias Range. Although three of its peaks rise to h...
Mountaineering in AntarcticaDee Molenaar, Robert A. Wharton, Jr., John SchuttALTHOUGH 98% of its surface is covered by ice, the Antarctic continent contains numerous mountain ranges that have been mapped both aerially and from the ground. The adve...
The North Face of Lone EagleROBERT M. ORMESLONE EAGLE PEAK, formerly called Lindbergh, lies in the head of a valley above Monarch Lake, near Granby, Colo. It is a curiosity among mountains, for though unquestionably one of the most imposing peaks ...
Everest’s Northeast Ridge Motomo Ohmiya, Sangaku Doshikai Club, Japan and Valeri Khrishchaty, Kazakhstan*On MAY 17, 1982, BRITISH CLIMB - ers Joe Tasker and Pete Boardman disappeared high on the northeast ridge of Mount Everest. They were last sig...
El Gigante, Yawira Batú. During the first days of May, Cecilia Buil (Spain) and Carlos Garcia (Mexico) made the second ascent of El Gigante in Chihuahua, Mexico. Their initial plan was to attempt a first ascent in the canyon of La Sinforosa, locat...
Api, South Face and East Ridge. The Italian expedition to Api was composed of Alberto Bianchi, Rolando Canuti, Claudio Cavenago, Cesare Cesa Bianchi, Luigi Leccardi, Maurizio Maggi, Ivano Meschini, Marco Polo, Angelo Rocca, Giampiero Rodari, Vit...
Aguja Guillaumet and Other Peaks. In November a young group from Bariloche spent three weeks in the Pollone valley behind Fitz Roy. Mario González and Daniel Horecky made what was probably the sixth ascent of the Aguja Guillaumet. (Alfredo Rosasco...
Tuco, Raria and Pongos Groups, Cordillera Blanca. After ascending the Quebrada Pachacoto, near Catac, we arrived at the Quebrada Ingenio which divides the Tuco and Caullaraju groups on the south from the Raria and Pongos groups on the north. A wel...
The Führerbuch of Edward Feuz, Sr.[Through the courtesy of Edward Feuz, Jr., we have been privileged to examine the Führerbuch of his father, Edward Feuz, Sr. (1859-1944). The elder Feuz and Christian Häsler, Sr., were the first Swiss guides emplo...
“Sweet Jesus, man, this blows. I hate alpine climbing.” It had become our trip’s mantra. But short memory resulted in Scott DeCapio and I climbing three routes from the Tokositna Glacier, all in pure alpine style, of course. We climbed light, lead...
Mascara, East Face, Attempt, Cuerno Este and Cuerno Chico, New Routes. We were in Paine National Park from December 11-January 21. The aim of our stay with Robert Tanner (Germany) was to climb Cerro Mascara from the Bader Valley. The Welsh Camp, w...
East Tooth, East Face. The Three Teeth of Sawtooth Ridge offer an impressive view from the west, but from the east they are even sheerer and less recognizable. The east faces of the Middle Tooth and East Tooth merge into one imposing 700-foot wall...
Study of this report reveals an increase in the proportion of accidents involving climbers of little or no experience and without experienced companions. Of the 28 climbing accidents in 1948 on which data were available, 20 resulted directly from ...
Dhaulagiri, Pear Route. After many tries, the Pear Route on Dhaulagiri has finally been climbed. An 18-man Japanese expedition was led by Norio Sasaki. They established six camps, the highest at 26,100 feet. On October 18 Noboru Yamada, Kozu Komat...
LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS FALL ON SNOW, FATIGUEUtah, Mount Olympus, North FaceThe previous year we (Michael and Jane Feldhaus, 33 and 31), along with Paul (41) and Marion (36), had completed the same route on Mount...
Gams in ihrer Bergheimat, by Franz Graf Zedwitz. 8 vo., 73 pages, with 94 illustrations from photographs. Berlin-Lichterfeld: Hugo Bermiihler Verlag, 1939.One of the most expert German photographers and game observers has made a book of the chamoi...
Count Zero on HuntingtonClay Wadman, UnajfiliatedIn 1991, I SAT IN BASE CAMP with my friends Gordy Kito and Ritt Kellogg while Jay Smith and Paul Teare climbed the Phantom Wall. (See AAJ, 1992, pages 50-58.) We had been stormbound for ten days whe...