Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Nanda Ghunti East

Nanda Ghunti East. The Shinshu University Alpine Club Expedition was led by Kyoji Sugimoto. The other two members, Ichikawa and Furuzuka, climbed the East Peak (20,013 feet) on October 6.Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club


Accident Reports ANAM
Connecticut, Sleeping Giant State Park — Mt. Carmel

Connecticut, Sleeping Giant State Park—Mt. Carmel—On October 14, 1956 Robert W. French (22) was climbing on the Chin of The Sleeping Giant. He was considered by both the Yale Mountaineering Club and the Dartmouth Outing Club to be a strong, capabl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Former USSR, Khan Tengri and Pik Pobedy

Khan Tengri and Pik Pobedy. Our expedition was composed of Roger Payne, Iain Peter and Allen Fyffe from the UK and me from New Zealand. Our trip was arranged through the International Mountaineering Camp Khan Tengri based in Alma Ata. We were flow...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Selkirks, Pioneer Peak

Pioneer Peak. Two new routes were made to this summit on August 3. The more elegant was done by George Bell and David Michael. An abrupt buttress rises to a point just east of the summit from the Stickle branch of the Granite Glacier. From Fairy M...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington - Cascade Mountains, Vesper Peak, North Face

Vesper Peak, North Face. Two new routes on this face were climbed during 1970. Beginning high on the glacier, Mark Weigelt, Julie Brugger, John Bonneville, and Earl Hamilton went up a broken gully to a ledge belay. Four pitches were climbed to the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Peaks near Ausangate, Cordillera Vilcanota

Peaks near Ausangate, Cordillera Vilcanota. On June 30 Herman Plugge, Margreet Hogeweg, Pauline Willinge, Bert Vonk and I left the Hacienda Tinqui for the mountains and on July 2 Hogeweg and I climbed Campa I (17,996 feet) on the way to Base Camp ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri II, Postmonsoon Attempt

Dhaulagiri II, Postmonsoon Attempt. A second Japanese expedition, this one from Kyoto and led by Yasuo Onishi, attempted the same route climbed by the Nagoya expedition but failed. The highest point reached on a summit attempt was some 800 feet fr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Ellsworth Mountains, Mt. Vinson Area, Various Ascents

Mt. Vinson Area, Various Ascents. On January 3, Viki Groselj, Stane Klemenc, Rafko Vodisek (Slovenia) and Stipe Bozic, Josko Bojic (Croatia) arrived in the Patriot Hills Base Camp. On the same day, we took a one-hour flight to Base Camp at the foo...


Accident Reports AAJ
Annapurna III Tragedy

Annapurna III Tragedy. Our Australian team was Colin Monteath, climbing leader, Jack Higgs, Steve Colman, Nick Reeves, Adrian Blake, John Chester, Steve McDowell, Geof Bartram, Stafford Morse, Faye Kerr, Dr. Brian Fearnley, Dr. Ken Bowes, Ray John...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, Cuerno Norte, West Face, Nacimientos

Cuerno Norte, West Face, Nacimientos. On February 13, Andre Labarca, Claudio Retamal and Luis Ortiz (Chile) finished a new route on the west face of Cuerno Norte. Nacimientos (V 5.10 Al, 15 pitches) was climbed in 18 hours from Advanced Base Camp....


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Yosemite, Mount Conness, North Ridge

Mount Conness, North Ridge. The north ridge of Mount Conness (12,590 feet) is a mile long cleaver dropping vertically on the east to the Conness Glacier and falling away at 70° for thousands of feet on the west. Barry Hagen and I apparently comple...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri

Dhaulagiri. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Ken Kanazawa climbed Dhaulagiri by the standard northeast ridge. On October 17 Toichiro Mitani and Jun’ichi Tanaka got to the summit. They had three camps above Base Camp.Michael J. Cheney, Himalay...


Book Reviews AAJ
Exotic Rock

Exotic Rock. Sam Lightner, Jr. Self-published. P.O. Box 591, Teton Village, WY, 83025. Color and black-and-white photos. 138 pages. $24.95.Comment: Though Lightner’s coverage of each area seems scanty, half the world is included: Hong Kong, Malays...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Great Trango Tower, Korean Fantasy, Previously Unreported

Great Trango Tower, Korean Fantasy, Previously Unreported. From June 21-August 19, 1997, expedition members Sang-Jo Lee (leader), Youn-Jung Shin (f), Choi Seung-Chol and Hyung- Jin Kim established a variation to the Norwegian Buttress Route on the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse Shar Attempt

Lhotse Shar Attempt. Spaniards Josema Casimiro, Joaquín Goñi, Jorge Corominas and Mikel Otermin, led by Mari Abrego, failed to climb the southeast ridge of Lhotse Shar. From the time they established Base Camp in the last days of March, they were ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Churen Himal West Attempt

Churen Himal West Attempt. A team of four Northern Irishmen attempted Churen Himal West by its southwest face. From Camp I, on May 4 leader Dawson Stelfox and Martin Manson reached the team’s high point of 21,500 feet while the other two members, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Andes, Elqui Valley and Los Corrales Valley, First Ascents

Elqui Valley and Los Corrales Valley, first ascents. In the upper Elqui Valley and on the Chilean-Argentinean border east of the town of Vicuna there seems to be a number of unclimbed mountains, all rising above very arid plains and valleys. The f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Peak North of Mount Tyr

Peak North of Mount Tyr. From July 14 to 19, Walter Obergolser, Reinhard Siller, Claus Obrist, Karl Hofer and I climbed a difficult new route of 17 pitches on the peak north of Mount Tyr (VI, 5.7 to 5.12a, A0). We ascended the north face of the bu...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Lahaul, Unnamed Peak (6248 m), First Ascent

Unnamed Peak (6248 m), first ascent. This peak lies southeast of Ramjak on the opposite side of the valley and was climbed for the first time on August 15 by Indians, Nitin Gandhi, Paresh Rathod, and Sudhir Raut. These three set up base camp at Ch...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Kamet Attempt and Abi Gamin, 1989

Kamet Attempt and Abi Gamin, 1989. Ours was the first joint Indian-Netherlands expedition. We were Indians N.D. Sherpa, overall leader, Wangchuk Sherpa, Shiromanu Singh, Ramesh Chand Kapoor, Purmal Singh Dharmashaktu and Netherlanders Frans Tasela...