Nanda Ghunti East. The Shinshu University Alpine Club Expedition was led by Kyoji Sugimoto. The other two members, Ichikawa and Furuzuka, climbed the East Peak (20,013 feet) on October 6.Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club
Connecticut, Sleeping Giant State Park—Mt. Carmel—On October 14, 1956 Robert W. French (22) was climbing on the Chin of The Sleeping Giant. He was considered by both the Yale Mountaineering Club and the Dartmouth Outing Club to be a strong, capabl...
Khan Tengri and Pik Pobedy. Our expedition was composed of Roger Payne, Iain Peter and Allen Fyffe from the UK and me from New Zealand. Our trip was arranged through the International Mountaineering Camp Khan Tengri based in Alma Ata. We were flow...
Pioneer Peak. Two new routes were made to this summit on August 3. The more elegant was done by George Bell and David Michael. An abrupt buttress rises to a point just east of the summit from the Stickle branch of the Granite Glacier. From Fairy M...
Vesper Peak, North Face. Two new routes on this face were climbed during 1970. Beginning high on the glacier, Mark Weigelt, Julie Brugger, John Bonneville, and Earl Hamilton went up a broken gully to a ledge belay. Four pitches were climbed to the...
Peaks near Ausangate, Cordillera Vilcanota. On June 30 Herman Plugge, Margreet Hogeweg, Pauline Willinge, Bert Vonk and I left the Hacienda Tinqui for the mountains and on July 2 Hogeweg and I climbed Campa I (17,996 feet) on the way to Base Camp ...
Dhaulagiri II, Postmonsoon Attempt. A second Japanese expedition, this one from Kyoto and led by Yasuo Onishi, attempted the same route climbed by the Nagoya expedition but failed. The highest point reached on a summit attempt was some 800 feet fr...
Mt. Vinson Area, Various Ascents. On January 3, Viki Groselj, Stane Klemenc, Rafko Vodisek (Slovenia) and Stipe Bozic, Josko Bojic (Croatia) arrived in the Patriot Hills Base Camp. On the same day, we took a one-hour flight to Base Camp at the foo...
Annapurna III Tragedy. Our Australian team was Colin Monteath, climbing leader, Jack Higgs, Steve Colman, Nick Reeves, Adrian Blake, John Chester, Steve McDowell, Geof Bartram, Stafford Morse, Faye Kerr, Dr. Brian Fearnley, Dr. Ken Bowes, Ray John...
Cuerno Norte, West Face, Nacimientos. On February 13, Andre Labarca, Claudio Retamal and Luis Ortiz (Chile) finished a new route on the west face of Cuerno Norte. Nacimientos (V 5.10 Al, 15 pitches) was climbed in 18 hours from Advanced Base Camp....
Mount Conness, North Ridge. The north ridge of Mount Conness (12,590 feet) is a mile long cleaver dropping vertically on the east to the Conness Glacier and falling away at 70° for thousands of feet on the west. Barry Hagen and I apparently comple...
Dhaulagiri. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Ken Kanazawa climbed Dhaulagiri by the standard northeast ridge. On October 17 Toichiro Mitani and Jun’ichi Tanaka got to the summit. They had three camps above Base Camp.Michael J. Cheney, Himalay...
Exotic Rock. Sam Lightner, Jr. Self-published. P.O. Box 591, Teton Village, WY, 83025. Color and black-and-white photos. 138 pages. $24.95.Comment: Though Lightner’s coverage of each area seems scanty, half the world is included: Hong Kong, Malays...
Great Trango Tower, Korean Fantasy, Previously Unreported. From June 21-August 19, 1997, expedition members Sang-Jo Lee (leader), Youn-Jung Shin (f), Choi Seung-Chol and Hyung- Jin Kim established a variation to the Norwegian Buttress Route on the...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. Spaniards Josema Casimiro, Joaquín Goñi, Jorge Corominas and Mikel Otermin, led by Mari Abrego, failed to climb the southeast ridge of Lhotse Shar. From the time they established Base Camp in the last days of March, they were ...
Churen Himal West Attempt. A team of four Northern Irishmen attempted Churen Himal West by its southwest face. From Camp I, on May 4 leader Dawson Stelfox and Martin Manson reached the team’s high point of 21,500 feet while the other two members, ...
Elqui Valley and Los Corrales Valley, first ascents. In the upper Elqui Valley and on the Chilean-Argentinean border east of the town of Vicuna there seems to be a number of unclimbed mountains, all rising above very arid plains and valleys. The f...
Peak North of Mount Tyr. From July 14 to 19, Walter Obergolser, Reinhard Siller, Claus Obrist, Karl Hofer and I climbed a difficult new route of 17 pitches on the peak north of Mount Tyr (VI, 5.7 to 5.12a, A0). We ascended the north face of the bu...
Unnamed Peak (6248 m), first ascent. This peak lies southeast of Ramjak on the opposite side of the valley and was climbed for the first time on August 15 by Indians, Nitin Gandhi, Paresh Rathod, and Sudhir Raut. These three set up base camp at Ch...
Kamet Attempt and Abi Gamin, 1989. Ours was the first joint Indian-Netherlands expedition. We were Indians N.D. Sherpa, overall leader, Wangchuk Sherpa, Shiromanu Singh, Ramesh Chand Kapoor, Purmal Singh Dharmashaktu and Netherlanders Frans Tasela...