Shisha Pangma. New Zealanders Steve Bruce and Dick Price reached the summit of Shisha Pangma by the standard route on May 16, followed on May 20 by leader Mike Perry and Mark Whetu, who descended on skis. The latter is a Maori. A nine-man Austro-S...
Snow Creek Wall. Three routes were done on this relatively untouched wall during the past summer. The most interesting involved 700 feet of climbing, done in August on the south portion of the wall by Galen McBee and Ed Cooper. Over 50 pitons and ...
Bharat Kunta. A team from the Indo-Tibetan Border Police led by B.C. Kulbe climbed this peak in the Kedarnath massif. Kalyan Singh, Nima Dorje, Ang Phutar, Prithvi Prasad, Kunwar Singh and Tripan Singh reached the summit (21,580 feet) on September...
Huandoy Group, Attempted Traverse. It was reported that Brad Johnson and Bruce Normand attempted a traverse of all four Huandoy summits, succeeding on all but one. The pair first climbed the Northeast Face of Huandoy Sur from the Pisco high camp, ...
In 1997, I climbed four small, “new” towers in the Fisher Towers with various partners. In April, Jon Butler and I made the first ascents of two towers, Large Marge and The Projects, below the Titan Trail. In December, Jesse Harvey, Mike Baker a...
New Routes on the East Face of Longs Peak. Tex Bossier and I made several new routes on the east face of Longs Peak during June of 1963. The difficult Grey Pillar route begins 120 feet right of the Diagonal. The first two leads ascend a steep aid ...
Three generations of Americans on the Matterhorn. In A. A. J. ii, 511, 513, we recorded ascents of Monte Rosa and Matterhorn in 1881 by Henry White Warren, bishop of the Methodist Episcopal church, with Peter Knubel. Rev. Warren’s interest in moun...
Chiquito Dome. The route named “Archline,” as reported by Conrad van Bruggen and Fremont Bainbridge in A.A.J., 1981, page 174, had been previously climbed in 1974 by Ian Raistrick, Darien Hopkins and Hugh Woodland. They had placed no bolts and the...
Grandes Jorasses. On 6 August 1951, after four days of extraordinarily difficult climbing, in bad weather, A. Heckmair and H. Köllensperger completed the Cassin route on the N. face of the Grandes Jorasses. Guides and chasseurs, headed by Lionel T...
Fitz Roy. There was conflicting information on page 585 of A.A.J., 1978. At the top of the page we reported incorrectly that an Italian expedition had climbed the north buttress of Fitz Roy. Lower on the same page Vojslav Arko correctly stated tha...
Condoriri Group, Various Activity. Slovenes David Podgorelec and Aleš Kovac from the Kozjak Maribor Mountaineering Club spent a week at Condoriri in 1997. On June 28, they attempted Aguja Negra (5280m) and got to the breche on the eastern arête, w...
Torre Egger, Southwest Face. During February and March Italians Bruno Di Dora and Giuliano Giongio climbed the southwest face of Torre Egger. The face was objectively very dangerous because of falling ice and rockfall. The route had previously bee...
Hanuman Tibba and other Peaks, Kulu. The Jochi University expedition was led by Ryujiro Kanda and composed of Daikichi Nakamura, Kuniki Takeda, Koji Ishioka and Yoshihiko Iwasa. After leaving Manali on August 17, they crossed the Solang Pass on Au...
Broad Peak, Attempts and Tragedy. A number of climbers were reported to have reached Broad Peak’s foresummit this year, including Anatoli Boukreev, in 36 hours return from base camp, Ed Viesturs, Vekka Gustafsson (Finland), and an unspecified numb...
Cayesh and Chacraraju Ascents and Tragedy. From May 30 to June 2 Czechoslovaks Bretislav Husicka and Petr Hapala made an alpine-style new route of extreme difficulty on the right side of the west face of Cayesh. The climb was on ice and mixed terr...
The Andean Expedition of the Bavarian Friends of Nature (Naturfreunde) consisted of Herbert Ziegenhardt, Josef Knott, Dr. Ekkehart Otto, Peter Borutzki, Hans Bichlmeier, Peter Schleyer, Manfred Zimmer and me as leader. We were away from Germany fr...
Southern Summer in the Fitz Roy-Cerro Torre Region, 1988-9. Until now (January 26, 1989), there has been little news except for the accidents which have occurred. On November 4, a rubber boat capsized in the Río de las Vueltas below the Madsen ran...
Dhaulagiri South Face Attempt. Our 16-member team had 12 Poles, two Canadians and a Pole from both France and Australia. Our objective was the 4000-meter-high south face of Dhaulagiri. We established Base Camp at 3800 meters on September 16 and Ad...
Everest, New Zealand International Ascent. Our expedition was composed of New Zealanders Gary Ball, Peter Hillary and I as leader, Swedes Mickael Reuterswärd, Oscar Khilborg and Johan Lagne, Belgian Rudy Van Snik, American Karen Fellerhoff, Canadi...
Agrada, east face, Mirror for the Hero. In August our team established a new route on the 2,340m Agrada, Barguzinsky Ridge, Ulzykha River Canyon. Mirror for the Hero (566m, 6B) ascends the center of the east face. The route opened in a corner with...