Everest Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Salvador Rivas, Dr. Malen Morales, Juan Salcedo, Carlos Salcedo, José Bienvenido, Manuel González, Rafael Gómez-Menor, Angel Ortiz, Bruno Pérez de Tudela and me as leader. We attempted th...
New Hampshire, Presidential Range—Mt. Madison—On June 2, Thomas H. Flint (21) apparently fell, struck his head and died of exposure on a descent of Mt. Madison. Flint, the most experienced, had been accompanied by Bert Perlmutter (21) and Edwin Sn...
FALL, CLIMBING ALONE—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Gunther Schmidt (35) was a member of a five-person Australian expedition climbing the West Buttress route on Mount McKinley. All members of the party reached the summit on July 21, shortly after a Canadia...
Nuptse East I (7,804m), first ascent. Last autumn’s attempt on the southeast pillar of Nuptse East I was the third by Valeri Babanov of Russia. Babanov had made an unsuccessful solo attempt on this pillar in the autumn of 2002, and in the spring o...
Kohe Shkhawr. Our expedition was composed of Giacomo Bornancini, Francesco Cappellari, Elena Guabello, Luca Proto, Gabriele Masiero, Fiorenza Testa, Dr. Donatella Noventa, Franco Paccagnella, Francesco Pavanini, Paolo Targhetta, Pierluigi Penon, D...
Royal Throne, Little Switzerland. Mark Moderow and I climbed the south face of the Royal Throne (NCCS IV, F8), a climb of 15 pitches, over two days in August. The granite is somewhat broken but quite sound.Nichols H. Parker, Mountain Trip, Alaska
FALL ON ROCK—ROCK DISLODGED, CLIMBING UNROPED Alberta, Mount NeptuakOn August 10, a party of two were ascending the normal Northwest Ridge route on Mount Neptuak. The route is mostly loose 3rd and 4th Class, but is an exposed ridge on certain sect...
Upper Pare Chu Valley, Pks. 6,206 and 6,080m, first ascents; Dhhun, second ascent. Our expedition from the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club left Kaza (3,600m) in the Spiti River Valley on July 23. We trekked north up the Parilungbi Valley...
Annapurna South, Winter Ascent. Nikolai Cherny, Valeri Lobankov, Akhamadulla Minihaev, Vladimir Shataev and I ascended the south face of Annapurna South (7219 meters, 23,685 feet) alpine-style in eleven days of continuous climbing to reach the sum...
Nevado Beato Josemaria, First Ascent. This unclimbed mountain was “discovered” by the Club Huayna Potosi of La Paz, Bolivia. They needed four expeditions over one and a half years to reach their goal. Finally they scouted the south face with great...
Switzerland and the English, by Arnold Lunn. 258 pages, with 16 pages of illustrations. London: Eyre and Spottiswoode, 1944. 15/-.Switzerland and the English has not hitherto been reviewed here, though it was published in England in 1944. Inevitab...
Escudo, South Face. Two new routes were put up in 1995. The first, Aguas Caliente (7a) was climbed by Sonya Brambti, and P. Vitali. The second route, Fuori Nei Cannoni, (7b+) was completed by S. Pedeferri and S. Pizzagalli. (GHM 1995-1996).
Kanchenjunga Ascent and Tragedy. We were Gilles Gaby, Michel Parmentier, Michel Pellé, Jean-Jacques Ricouard and I as leader. There are two approach routes to the Yalung side. We left Ilam and went through Sukepohari, Phidam, Gopetar, Tungrumba an...
FALLING ROCK – DISLODGED BY CLIMBER, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Little Twin OwlsOn August 7 at 1900, Bryan Pollack (36) was ascending the Descent Route (I, 5.2) on Little Twin Owls formation to place a top rope se...
Nepal and Tibet Himalaya, Various Ascents. In 1996, Anatoli Boukreev made the following ascents: May 10, Mount Everest, by the South Col route, working for the Mountain Madness expedition of Scott Fischer. May 17, Mount Lhotse, 8505 meters, solo a...
California, Yosemite National Park, Lower Yosemite Falls. On 31 August, Jack Berger, an expert gymnast, managed to climb a very difficult Chimney 80 feet up to the West (left) of Lower Yosemite Falls. The chimney led to open book and face climbing...
Hyndman Peak, Travis Michaelis Memorial Route. On May 14 Abe Dickerson and I climbed a very temporary ice route on the northeast face of Hyndman Peak in the Pioneer Range. We left a bivy at 10,400', below the northeast face, and climbed a 60° snow...
Ellesmere Island, Barbeau Peak and Various Ascents. In June, an expedition to Ellesmere Island made a rare ascent of Barbeau Peak, highest point in the Canadian Arctic, and cleared up some confusion concerning its location. The eight-man party was...
Thorndike Peaks, Ellesmere Island, North West Territories. This expedition, sponsored by the Explorers Club (Flag #200), operated during May in the Thorndike Peaks, south of the entrance to Makinson Inlet, on the east coast of Ellesmere Island. Th...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Stawamus ChiefJim Brennan (20) and Bruce Macdonald, both experienced climbers, were climbing Uncle Ben’s route (5.8, A3) on Stawamus Chief on August 1, 1983. They were nearing t...