Accident Tables ANAM
Table II

TABLE IIGeographical DistrictsAccidents1947-19541955Atlantic States—North 141South20 Central — 2 Colorado 324Utah 40Wyoming 193Montana & Idaho 61Arizona & Nevada 50California 234 Oregon 173Washin...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Unable to Self-Arrest, No Hard Hat, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak

FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, NO HARD HAT Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn February 3, 1993, at 1200, Carl Siegel (30) and Tim Cumbo (35) were descending the Cables (North Face) Route on Longs Peak after having successfu...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Italy, Alps, Grosse Zinne

Grosse Zinne. The north face of this forbidding pillar, one of the most impossible looking walls in the Dolomites, has at last succumbed to the “hardware” technique that in the Eastern Alps goes under the name of rock-climbing. A number of attempt...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Everest Attempt via the Japanese Couloir

Everest Attempt via the Japanese Couloir. An Italian expedition led by Giuseppe Pozzoli was unable to climb the north face of Everest. They got to 7000 meters in the Japanese Couloir on September 29.Elizabeth Hawley


Accident Reports ANAM
Georgia, Cliff in Vicinity of Camp Wahsega near Dahlonega

Georgia, Cliff in vicinity of Camp Wahsega near Dahlonega—On 23 November, Robert D. Bridger (21), a Ranger student participating in scheduled training fell to his death. He was riding down on a suspension traverse constructed of a one inch manila,...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall, Inadequate Equipment, Exposure—Alaska, Mt. McKinley

FALL, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXPOSURE.—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Joe Ebner (28), Richard Rose (41), Bill Joiner (25), and Larry Fanning (28) were members of a six-person expedition climbing Mount McKinley via the Pioneer Ridge Route. The party left Won...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Malahangur Asia, Nepal (Khumbu), Nuptse, North Face, The Crystal Snake

Nuptse, north face, The Crystal Snake. In terms of high-standard technical ascents at altitude the highlight of the season was the new route on the north face of Nuptse by Argentinean guides, Damian and Willie Benegas.The brothers made their first...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Istor-O-Nal North Attempt

Istor-O-Nal North Attempt. We had hoped to climb Istor-O-Nal North (7373 meters, 24,190 feet) by the Lapuch route. The members were Germans Kurt Bartenschlager, Gerhard Grassl, Eckard Kunze, Norbert Pfab, Austrians Erich Bosina, Adolf Deichstetter...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Russell Attempts, 1980 and 1981

Mount Russell Attempts, 1980 and 1981. In May 1980 Dave Pahlke and I attempted the northwest ridge of Mount Russell (11,670 feet). The route was too dangerous and was abandoned at about 9300 feet due to poor ice and constant exposure to avalanches...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded Due to Shoulder Dislocation, Alberta, Mount Louis

STRANDED DUE TO SHOULDER DISLOCATION Alberta, Mount LouisOn August 10, G.G. and G.B. were beginning the exit pitches on the summit tower of Mount Louis. They were attempting the classic Perren Variation (5.7). While starting to lead the first pitc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
India, Himachal Pradesh, Spiti, A Review of the Mountains Near the Head of the Pare Chu

A review of the mountains near the head of the Pare Chu. The Pare Chu lies northeast of the Spiti River, not far from the Indo-Tibet border. Since 1995 it has been easy for foreign mountaineers to gain access to the areas west of the Spiti River, ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Tilitso Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt

Tilitso Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt. Tilitso (7134 meters, 23,405 feet) was successfully climbed by three expeditions in the fall. All were by the northeast spur to the north ridge. Led by Hubert Fritzenwallner, a group of 9 Austrians complet...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Ancohuma, Various Ascents

Ancohuma, Various Ascents. The Joint Services Expedition to the Andes (JSE Andes ‘95) took place in Bolivia from April 25 to June 14, 1995. The expedition combined mountaineering in the Cordillera Real with physiological research and hang-gliding....


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Chilean Patagonia, Cuerno Norte, Caveman Route

Cuerno Norte, Caveman Route. In the French Valley, Americans Ted Bonetti and Steve Schneider made the second ascent of Caveman, a mostly free 1,500-foot climb on the northwest buttress of Cuerno Norte, confirming the excellent quality of the climb...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Nepal Himalayas, Various Ascents, and Elizabeth Hawley's Law of Economic Development

Nepal Himalaya, Various Ascents, and Elizabeth Hawley’s Law of Economic Development. This season saw more teams from southeast Asia than ever before, although they are not yet coming in large numbers. Over the years, as countries have become more ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu, South Face

Manaslu, South Face. An expedition of guides of the German Alpine Club (DAV) Mountain and Ski School had hoped to climb the unascended south ridge of Manaslu. They had Base Camp at 13,125 feet. They climbed a rock buttress to establish Camp I at 1...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, McKinley, Rapid Ascent

McKinley, Rapid Ascent. On June 4 late in the afternoon, Mugs Stump left the camp at 14,000 feet on the West Buttress of McKinley and crossed to the West Rib, which he descended to the northeast fork of the Kahiltna. He then climbed the Japanese C...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna IV Attempt

Annapurna IV Attempt. An expedition of three Swiss, two Germans and an Austrian, led by Austrian Harald Navé, got no higher than 5700 meters on the normal route, the northwest ridge and northwest face, of Annapurna IV. Heavy snowfall resulted in s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Mount Everest, Winter Attempt from Tibet

Mount Everest, Winter Attempt from Tibet. At the same time as Kazuyuki Takahashi was leading a successful winter ascent of Mount Everest from Nepal, his wife Michiko Imai Takahashi was leading an 18-member team from Tibet. Husband and wife had hop...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Bhutan, Chatarake and Kang Bum

Chatarake and Kang Bum. Bas Gresnigt and I made a climbing expedition to western Bhutan. Our first objective was a mountain that the Swiss trekking map of Bhutan calls Chatarake and is given as 6500 meters high. This is also called Djodrake by loc...