Ama Dablam Attempt. Our commercial group consisted of Americans Dwain Stranahan and Craig Selsman and Britons Alan Lees and me. Since the Nepalese give more than one permit for the same route at the same time and since there is not much room for t...
Everest Correction. On page 227 of AAJ1991, the names of Ang Phurba and Nima Dorje were unfortunately omitted from those of Jean-Noel Roche’s party who reached the top.
Harvard Mountaineering Club. This past summer, the Club put three parties, 11 members of the Club, into the Alaska Range.Thayer Scudder organized and led the Harvard Brooks-Mather Expedition, making the first ascents of Mt. Brooks 11,900 feet, Mt....
Kangchenjunga, by John Tucker. 217 pages and 34 illustrations. Foreword by Sir John Hunt. London: Elek, 1955. Price, 21 s.John Tucker’s pleasant story of the reconnaissance of the southwest side of Kangchenjunga in 1954 will not become a classic, ...
A NOTE ON MOUNT OLYMPUS, CASCADESFollowing the publication in last year’s A.A.f. of the early climbing records of Mount Olympus my attention was called by Dr. J. M. Thorington to the fact that in the 1932 and 1940 A. A. C. booklets Belmore Browne ...
Marcus Baker, First Winter Ascent, Chugach Mountains. On February 6 Rob Bowen, Greg Durocher, Charlie Hammond and I started up the Matanuska Glacier for Marcus Baker. The first couple of days we were lost among moraine piles and crevasses on the l...
Killing Dragons: The Conquest of the Alps. Fergus Fleming. New York: Atlantic Monthly Press, 2000. 16 pages of black-and-white photos. 398 pages. $26.00.By one of those coincidences that must play havoc with publishers’ bottom line, these two book...
Devistan. Devistan (21,910 feet) was climbed from the Trisul Glacier by the whole of the Iwate Sangaku Kyokai party on May 24, including Shozo Watanabe, leader, Yoji Kudo, Kazuo Iwabuchi, Seiichi Sawada, Kazuo Domon, Yukio Kudo and Tomo Odanaka.Ic...
New Zealand Expedition to Quebrada Yanganuco, Cordillera Blanca. The inevitable problems of organization overcome, our party, John Tothill, Don Mackay, Jean and Michael Nelson, arrived in Huaraz on July 10. There we picked up our porters and hired...
New Hampshire, Mt. Clay—On about September 1, 1956 John Ochab (37) apparently slipped on wet rocks and fell to his death a few feet below the summit of Mt. Clay. He fell down the gully toward the Great Gulf on the east slope of Mt. Clay. Ochab was...
Kamchatka Volcanoes. One pleasant benefit from the improving relations between what was the USSR and the United States is that previously closed areas are becoming open for exploration and climbing. One of these is the Kamchatka peninsula with its...
Peaks in “Little Switzerland.” As far as I know, Roger Robinson, Ken Cook and I are the only climbers to have been in “Little Switzerland,” which lies within the big bend of the Kahiltna. On July 19 & 20 we climbed P 8130 (“The Royal Tower”)...
Quadrant Spire. The first ascent of this summit was made on July 26 by Hans Gmoser with Jo Kato, Skip Merler, and Roby Fierz. From Fairy Meadow the usual route was taken over all the summits of Quadrant and thence along the ridge running easterly ...
Chogolisa Attempt. José Bermúdez, Jerry Lovatt, Grant Dixon, Robert Parker and I hoped to climb Chogolisa (7668 meters, 25,158 feet). Parker had to leave on August 1 because of illness. We wanted to make the second ascent of the 1986 British route...
Monte Sarmiento, West Peak. The twin peaks of Monte Sarmiento had been climbed only once before. Italian expeditions made both ascents, the first in 1956 (East Peak) and again in 1986 (West Peak). With the objective of new routes on both peaks, ou...
Snow Creek Wall, Outer Space. This winter ascent was completed on January 1 by Ron Burgner, Mark Weigelt, and me. We encountered 12 inches of snow plastered on ice over the whole 800-foot wall. Approximately two-fifths was fifth class climbing and...
Kingnait Fiord, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. On July 21 Daniel Cauthorn, Michael Friedman, Ben Dobbins and I1 left Pangnirtung in a 24-foot freighter canoe bound for the head of Kingnait Fiord, some 80 miles distant. We spent 35 days in th...
Cordillera Real and Sajama. The expedition I led was dispatched by the Alpine Club of the Tokyo University of Foreign Studies. The rest of the party consisted of two graduates, Kunio Suzuki and Masaki Aoki, two students, Takaya Takeshita and Tadas...
Condorsenga. Bruce Campbell-Watt, my wife Madeline and I spent six days camped near Mina Raura. Campbell-Watt and I climbed Yanku (16,897 feet) by the east ridge, Condorsenga (17,618 feet) via the east face after gaining the plateau between Condor...
The Brother and the Sisters, North Faces, Niut Range. After nearly a month of waiting for the usual “Indian Summer”, Fred Beckey, Bill Lahr, and I at last got our proposed traverse of the Niut Range underway. At ten A.M. on September 15, after bei...