Guide to the Wyoming Mountains and Wilderness Areas, by Orrin H. Bonney and Lorraine Bonney. Denver, Colorado: Sage Books, 1960. 389 pages; 99 ills.; 24 maps; index. Price $6.50.We owe a great debt to the Bonneys for preparing this long-needed gui...

Doric Column, The Big Nasty. It was reported that Bill Lee and Walt Shipley put up a new 600-foot route via the “obvious” line on the Doric Column’s southeast face. The Big Nasty (A4 5.9R) was climbed over three days in November; ten holes were dr...

Longs Peak, a new route on The Diamond. On August 14, Robert Boucher, his wife, a five-man support party and I strolled up to Chasm Lake on Longs Peak. After lunch, we climbed the North Chimney to Broadway, the great ledge at the base of the 1000-...

Mont Blanc. From the effects of the late John Barrymore (1882–1942), the American actor, we have secured his certificate of an ascent of Mont Blanc, made on September 1, 1921, in company with M. Myrtil Schwartz of Strasbourg, the guides Joseph Dem...

The Desert, Various Activity, Previously Unreported. Utah 95 passes through Comb Ridge, a dramatic, deep cut in the Navajo sandstone. In March, 1997, Mike Baker and Leslie Henderson put up Magic Man, a five-pitch, 250-foot 5.10+ route on the Praye...

FALLING ROCK—Wyoming, The Tetons. Paul Potters (25), Ivan Rezucha and William Parks were climbing the north face of the Grand Teton on the morning of July 11. Potters was leading approximately 150 feet above the bergschrund when he pulled off a l...

Trek up Ziwar Valley, Chitral. Our first expedition was organized as a reconnaissance for future trips by two senior high school teachers, Sadao Karibe and me. We arrived at Chitral by air on July 29, unfortunately without our unaccompanied baggag...

Whitechuck Mountain, Northeast Ridge. On July 14 Jim Cleary and I climbed this ridge on Whitechuck Mountain, east of Darrington. We approached the north side of the peak via Forest Service Road #3209, parking at the last switchback where an impass...

Bear Dome. Ian Raistrick and I climbed a prow on the west face of Bear Dome in August. The buttress is quite steep and imposing, and only the unglaciated nature of the rock lends plausibility to the climb. In fact, the route is quite easy, with th...

Shuangqiao Valley, Daogou West, first ascent. In late September Vaughn Thomas (Australia) and I made the first ascent of the granite peak of Daogou West (5,422m), via the south face. The weather was unstable during most of our stay, with the best ...

Lake Ann Buttress. One of the principal points of Shuksan Arm running between Austin Pass and Mount Shuksan, is the peak just northeast of Lake Ann. Its south face is a 1000-foot rock wall that offers some dubious route problems and has apparently...

Aconcagua. It was reported some months ago that an Argentine military mission had set up three huts on Aconcagua, at 4200 m., 6400 m. and 6700 m. The last, which is the highest in the world, is named for General Perón. In February 1952 it was repo...

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF PITON, CLIMBING ALONEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AlbertaTobin Sorenson (25) was attempting to climb the north face of Mount Alberta alone. He started on October 3, 1980; his last diary entry was 9:15 p.m. on October 4....

SLIP ON MIXED TERRAIN, RAPPEL ERROR, FATIGUE, DEHYDRATIONBritish Columbia, Tantalus Range, Mount DioneOn September 24, two experienced climbers were descending Mount Dione. They had completed the second ascent of the West Face, and spent the night...

Cerro Cubo, Southern Patagonian Icecap. Our expedition was composed of T. Kadota, Y. Onishi and me. We chartered a jeep at Punta Arenas and drove to Estancia Victorina on Lago Paine on January 14. After a week we made Base Camp at the tongue of th...

Sajama, Scientific Expedition. A scientific expedition to Sajama (6542m) saw a team of scientists drill two 120-meter by four-inch core samples in the summit to check out weather patterns during the last 30,000 years. The initial idea was to float...

First Ascent of Mount Queen Mary. Seattle Mountaineers St. Elias Range Expedition. A party of Seattle Mountaineers explored a previously unvisited region of the St. Elias Range between June 17 and July 3. Four different groups attempted climbs in ...

Cerro Torre Attempt. I was four weeks on the Cerro Torre in February, attempting the Maestri bolt-ladder route on the southeast buttress, a beautiful route. I got up to within 650 feet of the top but had to give up because of bad weather. It is we...

Qala Panja, Wakhan. A French expedition entered the Qala Panja valley, previously untouched by climbers. The glaciers descend to 10,000 feet from two glacial plateaus at 16,500 feet. The ice is particularly steep and broken for the first 1500 feet...

Oregon Section. Bob McGown, Section chair, was on four continents this year, so Richard Bence took over some of his duties. Bence also maintains the Oregon Section and Madrone Wall Web sites, www.ors.alpine.org and www.savemadrone.org. The Oregon ...