Broad Peak, 1985. In A.A.J., 1986 on page 277, a portion of the account written by Sadao Tambe was omitted, telling of the second part of the expedition when six of their members climbed to the summit of Broad Peak. On August 12 one group bivouack...
On April 25, 1991, Klass Wierenga (27), Frank De Vos (26), Frank Kleinbekman, and Matthijs Wiggers of the Dutch Mount Foraker Expedition were climbing near the 8000 foot level on the 1974 Variation of the Southeast Ridge of Mount Foraker. At a poi...
Disteghil Sar Attempt and Ascent of One of the Madhil Sar Peaks. Kotaru Nakajima, Shinischi Kohara and I had permission to climb Disteghil Sar from the Malangutti Glacier. We placed Base Camp at 3600 meters on the Malangutti Glacier on June 6. Aft...
Baralacha Peak (6111 m), second ascent. This peak close to the Baralacha Pass received a second ascent on September 5 by three members from an Indian team led by Ms. Kalpana Mekherjee. The leader with Taponayan Ghosh and Partha Majumdar reached th...
Trisul Attempt. Charlie Winger, Laura Zaruba, Clay Hutchison, Kim Knox and I attempted to climb the west face of Trisul. Our high point was reached on September 30 when Hutchison and I established Camp IV at 6700 meters at the end of technical dif...
Rock Climbing in France: Locations and Descriptions of 279 Crags. Jean-Pierre Bouvier. Diadem Books, London, 1984. 72 pages, maps. £4.95.My grandmother (and probably yours too) always said, “There’s a place for everything and everything in its pla...
Schweizer Trachtenbuch, by Louise Witzig. 8vo., 280 pages with 60 plates from color photos and 200 illustrations (sketches and photos) in black and white. Zürich: Schweizerische Trachtenvereinigung, 1954. Price, Sw. fr. 38.The four-volume Volkstra...
Mandaras Valley and Zebak Area. An expedition of the Klub Tatrzanski PTTK Krakow, led by Jerzy Wala, climbed first in the Mandaras valley. They made the following ascents: M 3b (19,417 feet; a mile northwest of M 5) on August 10 by A. Gorski, E. B...
Annapurna IV, Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt. There were three successful ascents of Annapurna IV (7525 meters, 24,688 feet) and one unsuccessful one, all by the northwest ridge. An expedition of six South Koreans under the leadership of Goo Hwa...
Two expeditions are known to have climbed 7,492m Noshaq by the “normal route” up the west ridge. Summiting on August 4 were Tim Wood and local guide Aziz Beg, Wood becoming the first Australian to climb the mountain. A third member, Tony Simms, st...
Aguja Guillaumet, West Face and Northeast Buttress, 1993. My father Erich Gatt and I arrived in Patagonia in mid February, 1993 and were greeted by friends who had been there for two months and had been unable to reach a single summit because of b...
New Mexico, Shiprock—The accident occurred on 29 May at approximately 6 P.M. on the west face of Shiprock on a pitch commonly known as the “head- wall” about 25 feet from the “notch”. A descent to the ground was in progress after a second ascent o...
CLIMBING UNROPED—Washington, Copper Mountain. Harry Christiansen (24) and David Wells and Rick Ohlund were free climbing on the northwest side of Copper Mountain within Mt. Rainier National Park. Christiansen was standing on a rock ledge while his...
STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, FEARColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, Wind TowerOn September 10, two young men (20, 21) and a young woman (22) climbed up about 250 feet on the East Face of Wind Tower and became stranded when they...
Khan Tengri, Tien Shan, First Winter Ascent. The most notable event of the 1991-2 winter season in the high Asian mountains was the first winter ascent of the marble pyramid Khan Tengri (6995 or 7010 meters, 22,950 or 22,999 feet). One of the worl...
Wisteria Tower, Autumn Sonata, Palisades. In August, Chip Salaun and I climbed Autumn Sonata (III, 5.10). The route ascends the central crack system of the Wisteria Tower, the next prominent buttress 100 feet downhill from the Great Chimney Buttre...
CEREBRAL EDEMA, EXHAUSTION, BAD WEATHERAlaska, Mt. McKinleyOn the morning of June 22, while at 14,000 feet on the West Buttress, Charles Prentice (33) complained of headache. His group carried a load to 16,500 and Prentice did as well as the other...
Shigri Parbat. A British expedition led by Adrian Lagnado climbed Shigri Parbat (6526 meters, 21,410 feet) on the Lahul-Spiti divide. They approached via the Bara Shigri Glacier. On September 13, Lagnado, Paul Hart and Bob Newbry reached the summi...
South Tower, Various Ascents. Jorge Casanova K., Dario Arancibia and Andres Babarca made a one-punch ascent of the Aste route (1250 meters, 5.10+ A1) in 32 hours from the Japanese camp to the summit, alpine-style, on December 30, 1996. We climbed ...
Princeton Outing Club. The recently established Princeton Outing Club, though interested primarily in skiing, includes a small group of members who have taken to rock climbing under thesupervision of Weir Stewart, William Douglas and Bruce Hall, w...