Annapurna South, Winter Ascent. Nikolai Cherny, Valeri Lobankov, Akhamadulla Minihaev, Vladimir Shataev and I ascended the south face of Annapurna South (7219 meters, 23,685 feet) alpine-style in eleven days of continuous climbing to reach the sum...
Nevado Beato Josemaria, First Ascent. This unclimbed mountain was “discovered” by the Club Huayna Potosi of La Paz, Bolivia. They needed four expeditions over one and a half years to reach their goal. Finally they scouted the south face with great...
Switzerland and the English, by Arnold Lunn. 258 pages, with 16 pages of illustrations. London: Eyre and Spottiswoode, 1944. 15/-.Switzerland and the English has not hitherto been reviewed here, though it was published in England in 1944. Inevitab...
Escudo, South Face. Two new routes were put up in 1995. The first, Aguas Caliente (7a) was climbed by Sonya Brambti, and P. Vitali. The second route, Fuori Nei Cannoni, (7b+) was completed by S. Pedeferri and S. Pizzagalli. (GHM 1995-1996).
Kanchenjunga Ascent and Tragedy. We were Gilles Gaby, Michel Parmentier, Michel Pellé, Jean-Jacques Ricouard and I as leader. There are two approach routes to the Yalung side. We left Ilam and went through Sukepohari, Phidam, Gopetar, Tungrumba an...
FALLING ROCK – DISLODGED BY CLIMBER, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Little Twin OwlsOn August 7 at 1900, Bryan Pollack (36) was ascending the Descent Route (I, 5.2) on Little Twin Owls formation to place a top rope se...
Nepal and Tibet Himalaya, Various Ascents. In 1996, Anatoli Boukreev made the following ascents: May 10, Mount Everest, by the South Col route, working for the Mountain Madness expedition of Scott Fischer. May 17, Mount Lhotse, 8505 meters, solo a...
California, Yosemite National Park, Lower Yosemite Falls. On 31 August, Jack Berger, an expert gymnast, managed to climb a very difficult Chimney 80 feet up to the West (left) of Lower Yosemite Falls. The chimney led to open book and face climbing...
Hyndman Peak, Travis Michaelis Memorial Route. On May 14 Abe Dickerson and I climbed a very temporary ice route on the northeast face of Hyndman Peak in the Pioneer Range. We left a bivy at 10,400', below the northeast face, and climbed a 60° snow...
Ellesmere Island, Barbeau Peak and Various Ascents. In June, an expedition to Ellesmere Island made a rare ascent of Barbeau Peak, highest point in the Canadian Arctic, and cleared up some confusion concerning its location. The eight-man party was...
Thorndike Peaks, Ellesmere Island, North West Territories. This expedition, sponsored by the Explorers Club (Flag #200), operated during May in the Thorndike Peaks, south of the entrance to Makinson Inlet, on the east coast of Ellesmere Island. Th...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDSBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Stawamus ChiefJim Brennan (20) and Bruce Macdonald, both experienced climbers, were climbing Uncle Ben’s route (5.8, A3) on Stawamus Chief on August 1, 1983. They were nearing t...
West Mendenhall Tower, Great White Conqueror. In March, with the help of a Mugs Stump Award, my new friend Sam Magro and I went looking for steep ice and mixed lines on the north side of the Mendenhall Towers. After we arrived the weather fell apa...
FALL ON ICEAlberta, Kananaskis Country, 2-Low 4-ZeroOn December 3,1 took a leader fall. The fall was a result of a left-hand tool plant shearing off a substantial block of very brittle ice while I was placing the other tool. The left tool proceede...
Manaslu Tragedy. A heavy blow struck the Croatian Manaslu expedition from Yugoslavia led by Vinko Marevec when on April 24 Nejc (Jernej) Zaplotnik and Ante Bucan were killed in an avalanche of rock and ice. Their companion, Srecko Gregov was badly...
Mount McKinley, Northwest Face of the West Buttress. A full article on this climb appears earlier in this Journal.
Selected Poems on West Penwith and Reflections, by Arthur Westlake Andrews. Foreword by Geoffrey Winthrop Young. Vol. 1 (Vol. 2 in preparation). Tregerthen, St. Ives, Cornwall: published by the author, 1957. (Obtainable from John W. Saundry, Chape...
Annapurna II Attempt. This two-man Japanese team, Kunihiko Kondo and Kazuo Yamamoto, attempted the south face of Annapurna II with no fixed camps or Sherpas. They gave up on October 13 at 7500 meters because of the dangers of the route, which incl...
Colque Cruz I, I Am Dynamite; Peak Bethia, possible first ascent. On August 2 Alistair Gurney and I made the first ascent of the southwest face of Colque Cruz I (6,102m) in Peru’s remote Cordillera Vilcanota. Our route up the icy 650m face, I Am D...
Yarydag, New Route. Yarydag, located in the republic of Daghestan in the south of Russia, is part of a ten-kilometer by 15-kilometer plateau located on the border of Azerbaijan and Russia. It is about 250 kilometers from Makhachkala, the capital o...