Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Mt. Robson. Emperor Face, Haley-House

Mt. Robson. Emperor Face, Haley-House. When I got the call, Joe Josephson was on the other end of the line. Joe and Barry Blanchard were looking for a third to join them on an attempt on the Emperor Face, and so began what we came to call “the ann...


Book Reviews AAJ
Fifty Classic Climbs of North America

Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, by Steve Roper and Allen Steck.San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1979. 324 pages, 189 photos.To those with a passion for active climbing or “armchair” participation, Fifty Classic Climbs may at first not seem...


Feature Article AAJ
The Reconnaissance of the Minya Konka

The Reconnaissance of the Minya KonkaArthur B. Emmons, IIION the southeastern borders of Tibet, where the high plateau drops abruptly down into the fertile plains of Western China, lie several ranges of peaks which are generally looked upon as a c...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Quitaraju, South Face

Nevado Quitaraju, south face. Brits Nick Bullock and Al Powell opened a new route on the great south wall of Nevado Quitaraju (6040m). This route is to the right of the Slovenian line (the only previous route on this wall). The first climbers expl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Gunnjørns Fjeld, Watkins Mountains, East Greenland

GunnjØrns Fjeld, Watkins Mountains, East Greenland. This second phase of a joint Anglo-Danish project was concerned with exploration and scientific work in the Blosseville Coast area. The first phase in 1969 explored the inland icecaps and attempt...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Acopan Tepui, El Sendero de los Indigenas South America, Venezuela

Ján Smolen (Slovakia) and Ondra Beneš, Jiri Lautner, and Tomáš Sobotka (Czech Republic) established El Sendero De Los Indigenas (7c/UIAA 9), on the east face of Acopan Tepui from Jan 7—11. The 425m route has 11 pitches: 3, 7a, 7c, 7c, 7b, 6b, 6a, ...

| Published N/A | Author Vlado Linek


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse Shar

Lhotse Shar. Lhotse Shar, the east peak of Lhotse, is difficult. Out of 20 expeditions attempting it from 1970 to 1988, only five have succeeded and seven climbers have fallen to their deaths on its slopes. A 16-man Swiss expedition of the Zermatt...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Failure to Follow Instincts—Not to Climb That Day, California, Yosemite National Park, Low Profile Dome

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTINCTS-NOT TO CLIMB THAT DAYCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Low Profile DomeAt 1630 on September 8, Ranger Mike Yost received a call at the Tuolumne Meadows Ranger Station regarding an injured climber at the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley

As always, we are very grateful to the Editorial Board and to those friends without whose unstinting assistance this section could not have been compiled. It is impossible to mention all who have helped who are not members of the Editorial Board. ...


Editorials And Prefaces ANAM
Forty-Third Annual Report of the Safety Committees of The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada

This is the forty-third issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the twelfth that has been done jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: First, an apology. In last year’s report of a fatal accident o...


Accident Reports ANAM
Sudden Death on Summit, Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

SUDDEN DEATH ON SUMMITAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressThis Alpine Ascents International climbing expedition flew into the base camp of Mount McKinley on June 20th with two guides and six clients, one of whom was James P. Nasti (51), a first t...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mt. McKinley: The Pioneer Climbs

Mt. McKinley: The Pioneer Climbs, by Terris Moore. College, Alaska. University of Alaska Press, 1967. Distributed by University of Washington Press. 202 pages, many photographs, 8 maps. Price $6.95. Mount McKinley is superlative in several respect...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Hindu Kush, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Koh-e-Urgund Attempt, Koh-e-Awal

Koh-e-Urgund Attempt, Koh-e-Awal. Unfortunately our undertaking turned out sadly. Two of my companions, Werner Bergmann and Horst Kaltow disappeared on August 30 near Camp II on Koh-e-Urgund, presumably buried in an avalanche. Before that, I had f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina and Chile, Northern Patagonia, Chile, Cochamó, Valle Cochamó, Overview and Various Ascents

Valle Cochamó, overview and various ascents. At pitch 13 on the white granite of the 1,000m Trinidad wall, Argentine Esequiel Manoni and I were interrupted by a condor’s 2m wing span slicing the air, as the curious bird swept by our position. Belo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Putha Hiunchuli

Putha Hiunchuli. Our expedition consisted of Jung Sang-Kun, Yoon Dae-Hyo, Kim Kyung-Nam, Kang Young-Ki and me as leader. We approached via Nodanda and Beni and got to Base Camp at 4200 meters on March 20. We climbed the south ridge and south face....


Notes AAJ
The Seven Summits

The Seven Summits. Americans have been in the lead in climbing the highest points of all the continents. Now, Dolly Lefever has been added to the list as the third woman and the first American woman. In the past, there has been a question as to wh...


Feature Article AAJ
The Murchisons Revisited

The Murchisons RevisitedGeorgia EngelhardIN 1938, when Eaton Cromwell, the writer and Edward Feuz made the first ascent of the S. and N. Murchison Towers,1 we viewed with interest the three other virgin peaks of the district, and decided that at s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Central Patagonia, Cerro Largo, First Ascent, Northeast Ridge; Cerros Hyades, Turret, and Escuela, First Winter Ascents

Cerro Largo, first ascent, northeast ridge; Cerros Hyades, Turret, and Escuela, first winter ascents. After making the first winter crossing of the Northern Patagonia Ice Cap in July 2006, we wanted to climb mountains on the northeast side of the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Commonwealth of Independent States, Kyrgyzstan, Chon-Turasu Valley, Attempt on Koroleva and Ascent of Molodezhnyi

Chon-Turasu Valley, attempt on Koroleva and ascent of Molodezhnyi. In August I climbed with Graham Holden in the Chon-Turasu Valley of the Western Kokshaal-Too. We reached our 3300m base camp by Ural Truck in a problem- free three-day drive from B...


Club Activities AAJ
Mountaineering Club of Alaska

Mountaineering Club of Alaska. The year 1971 was a successful yet heartbreaking one for the club. Disaster struck three of our most active members: Dr. Grace Hoeman, Hans Van der Laan, and Buddy Jai- dinger. Grace and Hans were killed on April 12 ...