Aspirant mountain guide Rolando Morales and ULAGM guide Beto Pinto, who has put up 20 new routes in the Cordillera Central, climbed the southeast face of Tunshu South. Morales and Pinto entered the Reserva Paisajística Nor Yauyos, southeast of L...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. Slovene climbers, Stane Belak and Marjan Kregar, were anxious to complete the route unsuccessfully attempted by them and two others in the autumn. Actually these two Yugoslavs in the pre-monsoon season of 1986 did not climb the...
Putha Hiunchuli. An eight-man joint Japanese-Nepalese expedition led by Kaneo Nakamura climbed Putha Hiunchuli by the south ridge to the south face, the standard route. On October 4 the summit was reached by Akira Mizutani, Yoshinori Nakajima, Pas...
Mount Everest, Kanshung Face. Mrs. Santosh Yadav led an Indian expedition that largely repeated the line up Everest’s east face pioneered by a small British-American-Canadian team (Anderson-Webster-Teare-Venables) in the spring of 1988. Kusang Dor...
Rimo I. Rimo I was first attempted by an Indo-British expedition in 1985 via the southwest spur (AAJ, 1986, pages 261-6, with photos). In 1986, an expedition with members from India, Australia, New Zealand, England and the United States attempted ...
Everest Climbed by Nepalese. A 24-man expedition of the Royal Nepalese Army was led by Lieutenant Colonel Chetra Bahadur Gurung. This was the first all-Nepalese expedition to succeed on Everest, making the 100th ascent of the mountain. Among the s...
Ullu-Tau (4,207m), north face, new route. In June 2003 a team of Czech climbers Bohuslav Vlcek, Jan Skalik, and Ondra Vespalec climbed a new route on the 1,400-meter high north face of Ullu-Tau (4,207m). Ullu-Tau is at the end of Adyr-Su Valley in...
Painted Mountains: Two Expeditions to Kashmir. Stephen Venables. Hodder & Stoughton, London, 1986. 239 pages, color photographs, route diagram, maps, bibliography. £12.95.For all the current celebration of the small, “alpine-style” expedition,...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLEDGeorgia, Tallulah Gorge State ParkJoshua Robertson (20), an avid rock climber, died of injuries from a fall on April 20. He was climbing with three others. Sources said the fall happened on P2 of Mescaline Daydream (...
Table IYearTotal Number of Reported AccidentsNumber of Deaths1947 15111948 28151949 1791950 3081951 1841952 35141953 25121954 3181955 275
FALLING ICE, WEATHER—UNSTABLE CONDITIONS, POOR BELAY POSITIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National ParkOn January 1,1993, Henry Browning (35) and David Pyatt (34) set off to climb Jaws II WI 4-5, a frozen waterfall route in the Windy Gulch area of Roc...
Ski Traverse. A remarkable traverse of the entire range on ski was made last year by L. Zwingelstein from Grenoble to Vorarlberg and back, practically the entire trip being made alone. The complete excursion took from February 1st to May 1st and i...
Everest Attempt and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Salvador Rivas, Dr. Malen Morales, Juan Salcedo, Carlos Salcedo, José Bienvenido, Manuel González, Rafael Gómez-Menor, Angel Ortiz, Bruno Pérez de Tudela and me as leader. We attempted th...
New Hampshire, Presidential Range—Mt. Madison—On June 2, Thomas H. Flint (21) apparently fell, struck his head and died of exposure on a descent of Mt. Madison. Flint, the most experienced, had been accompanied by Bert Perlmutter (21) and Edwin Sn...
FALL, CLIMBING ALONE—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. Gunther Schmidt (35) was a member of a five-person Australian expedition climbing the West Buttress route on Mount McKinley. All members of the party reached the summit on July 21, shortly after a Canadia...
Nuptse East I (7,804m), first ascent. Last autumn’s attempt on the southeast pillar of Nuptse East I was the third by Valeri Babanov of Russia. Babanov had made an unsuccessful solo attempt on this pillar in the autumn of 2002, and in the spring o...
Kohe Shkhawr. Our expedition was composed of Giacomo Bornancini, Francesco Cappellari, Elena Guabello, Luca Proto, Gabriele Masiero, Fiorenza Testa, Dr. Donatella Noventa, Franco Paccagnella, Francesco Pavanini, Paolo Targhetta, Pierluigi Penon, D...
Royal Throne, Little Switzerland. Mark Moderow and I climbed the south face of the Royal Throne (NCCS IV, F8), a climb of 15 pitches, over two days in August. The granite is somewhat broken but quite sound.Nichols H. Parker, Mountain Trip, Alaska
FALL ON ROCK—ROCK DISLODGED, CLIMBING UNROPED Alberta, Mount NeptuakOn August 10, a party of two were ascending the normal Northwest Ridge route on Mount Neptuak. The route is mostly loose 3rd and 4th Class, but is an exposed ridge on certain sect...
Upper Pare Chu Valley, Pks. 6,206 and 6,080m, first ascents; Dhhun, second ascent. Our expedition from the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club left Kaza (3,600m) in the Spiti River Valley on July 23. We trekked north up the Parilungbi Valley...