Api, South Face and East Ridge. The Italian expedition to Api was composed of Alberto Bianchi, Rolando Canuti, Claudio Cavenago, Cesare Cesa Bianchi, Luigi Leccardi, Maurizio Maggi, Ivano Meschini, Marco Polo, Angelo Rocca, Giampiero Rodari, Vit...
Aguja Guillaumet and Other Peaks. In November a young group from Bariloche spent three weeks in the Pollone valley behind Fitz Roy. Mario González and Daniel Horecky made what was probably the sixth ascent of the Aguja Guillaumet. (Alfredo Rosasco...
Tuco, Raria and Pongos Groups, Cordillera Blanca. After ascending the Quebrada Pachacoto, near Catac, we arrived at the Quebrada Ingenio which divides the Tuco and Caullaraju groups on the south from the Raria and Pongos groups on the north. A wel...
The Führerbuch of Edward Feuz, Sr.[Through the courtesy of Edward Feuz, Jr., we have been privileged to examine the Führerbuch of his father, Edward Feuz, Sr. (1859-1944). The elder Feuz and Christian Häsler, Sr., were the first Swiss guides emplo...
“Sweet Jesus, man, this blows. I hate alpine climbing.” It had become our trip’s mantra. But short memory resulted in Scott DeCapio and I climbing three routes from the Tokositna Glacier, all in pure alpine style, of course. We climbed light, lead...
Mascara, East Face, Attempt, Cuerno Este and Cuerno Chico, New Routes. We were in Paine National Park from December 11-January 21. The aim of our stay with Robert Tanner (Germany) was to climb Cerro Mascara from the Bader Valley. The Welsh Camp, w...
East Tooth, East Face. The Three Teeth of Sawtooth Ridge offer an impressive view from the west, but from the east they are even sheerer and less recognizable. The east faces of the Middle Tooth and East Tooth merge into one imposing 700-foot wall...
Study of this report reveals an increase in the proportion of accidents involving climbers of little or no experience and without experienced companions. Of the 28 climbing accidents in 1948 on which data were available, 20 resulted directly from ...
Dhaulagiri, Pear Route. After many tries, the Pear Route on Dhaulagiri has finally been climbed. An 18-man Japanese expedition was led by Norio Sasaki. They established six camps, the highest at 26,100 feet. On October 18 Noboru Yamada, Kozu Komat...
LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS FALL ON SNOW, FATIGUEUtah, Mount Olympus, North FaceThe previous year we (Michael and Jane Feldhaus, 33 and 31), along with Paul (41) and Marion (36), had completed the same route on Mount...
Gams in ihrer Bergheimat, by Franz Graf Zedwitz. 8 vo., 73 pages, with 94 illustrations from photographs. Berlin-Lichterfeld: Hugo Bermiihler Verlag, 1939.One of the most expert German photographers and game observers has made a book of the chamoi...
Count Zero on HuntingtonClay Wadman, UnajfiliatedIn 1991, I SAT IN BASE CAMP with my friends Gordy Kito and Ritt Kellogg while Jay Smith and Paul Teare climbed the Phantom Wall. (See AAJ, 1992, pages 50-58.) We had been stormbound for ten days whe...
Travel and Mountaineering in the CaucasusWm. Osgood FieldIT is only within the last seventy years that foreigners have gone to the Caucasus to see the region, explore its valleys and climb its mountains. At first conditions of travel were very bad...
Colorado Climbing Notes, 1934The past climbing season in Colorado was even better than the memorable season of 1933, if we are to judge a season by the number of first ascents and new routes produced. Indeed, the past season records possibly eight...
Hooked on Traprock: Rock Climbing in Central Connecticut. Ken Nichols. Amereon House. Photos, cartoons. 504 pages. $27.95Comment: Ken’s talents as a guidebook writer are less famous than his exploits in the “bolting wars.” His descriptions are lim...
South Walsh, attempt. Our flight in was delayed for five days due to poor weather, and we left three days early due to the high probability of further poor flying conditions. Paul Geddes, Willa Haraysm, Dave McCormick, Ted Rosen, and I were on the...
AVALANCHEWashington, Mount ShuksanOn June 26, 1983, Peter Travis (19) and John Nelson (20) were killed when an avalanche on Price Glacier, on the north flank of Mount Shuksan, swept them down an avalanche chute and over a cliff.John Trombold, one ...
Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon had a most active year of mountaineering in 1961 under the direction of climbing chairman, Erwin Rieger. When a club adheres to a policy of well-organized, official climbs as do the Mazamas, there is necess...
P 5900, “Tekone Peak,” Tirich Mir Massif. Our expedition consisted of Mike Browning, Dana Coffield, Bruce and John Gordon, Ed Ramey and me as leader. On July 1 our expedition flew from Rawalpindi to Chitral and the next day took the three-hour jee...
Peak 4810, East Face, New Route. Alexander Pogorelov and Vitaly Polohov from Rostov-on-Don established a new route (6B, 1100m) on the east face of Peak 4810, fixing the initial pitches of the route from August 4-11, then climbing it from August 14...