AVALANCHEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount AthabascaOn August 30, 1980, Glen Parker (26), Dolores Parker (20), and Roy Walter (18) were ascending the normal route (north glacier, saddle, north ridge) on Mount Athabasca. They were roped together with...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION–BELAY ANCHOR, INADEQUATE BELAYBritish Columbia, Squamish, SickleTwo climbers were ascending a route called Sickle on the Apron on May 20. They were anchored to a conifer tree, about five to ten centimeters in di...
Cerro Heim Group Exploration and Ascent of Cerro Jani, Southern Patagonian Icecap. Our expedition was composed of Joe Browne, John Tincklepaugh, Alfredo Rikker, my brother Pedro and me. We explored the two possible routes of access to the Heim gro...
Nevado de las Virgenes, First Ascent, and Other Activity in La Choco Cota. Although previously reported as ascended, Nevado de las Virgenes, so christened by Theodor Herzog in 1911, remained unclimbed until June, when our Spanish expedition (Adolf...
Mount Sinyala. Mount Sinyala (5445 feet) was first climbed on April 11 by Mike Sherrick, Bill Amborn, Jim Wilkerson and me. Composed of Coconino sandstone and Kaibab limestone, the peak rises 1200 feet above the Sinyala Mesa on the south rim of th...
Routes on Fitz Roy. The following routes have been done on Fitz Roy:1. 1952, French (Terray et a1.), east face. M.A. Azema, The Conquest of FitzRoy, London: Andre Deutsch, 1957.2. 1965, Argentine (Fonrouge and Comesaña), supercouloir (supercana- l...
Peaks above Chhutidum Glacier. Michael H. Westmacott, his wife Sally, Dr. H. R. Thomlinson and I placed our Base Camp at the junction of the Kotgaz and Chhutidum glaciers on July 31. We had hoped to climb Lunkho West but from a reconnaissance camp...
Alaska Section. The slide shows in Anchorage have been a great way to bring our members and others together on a regular basis to network and find out what concerns the public has on climbing related issues. Eight of these popular shows were prese...
Streaked Wall, Lord Helmet. According to www.alpinist.com and confirmed by Brian McCray, he and Chad Umbel established Lord Helmet (9 pitches, VI 5.9 A4) over 11 days in May, spread over two trips. They drilled about 60 holes (including belay anch...
Swat Kobistan. A German expedition, Stefan Rausch, leader, Franz Grundner, Wolfgang Hasse, and Eugen Näf, climbed first in the Mankial and Siri Dara groups. They all climbed on July 7 the Central Peak (17,500 feet), a second ascent, and Mustagh (?...
Hanuman Tibba. This peak of 19,450 feet was climbed on October 5 by a ladies’ expedition led by M. C. Usha. The summit was reached by Miss Sobha Kapur, Miss Bharati Bannerji, Miss Sudha Talwar and Sherpa Lobsang. The expedition met bad weather all...
K2, South-Southeast Spur, Attempt. A seven-member Basque team led by Ramon Agirre (38) reached 7000 meters on the south-southeast spur but were turned back by too much snow and avalanches that came down from the Shoulder (8000 meters). While estab...
Staunings Alps, East Greenland. An expedition led by Toni Gobbi of twelve Italians climbed in the Staunings Alps. They arrived in the region in June. They climbed the following peaks, none of them first ascents: West Greenland Peak (8333 feet), Ke...
Huascarán Norte, North Face. After acclimatization climbs on Artesonraju and Alpamayo, Kurt Saurer and I on May 19 left the lake in the Llanganuco and walked up to the north face. We spent a bad night in a snowstorm without a tent. The next day we...
Huarancante, Cordillera Volcánica. On October 13 I climbed Huarancante (c. 17,725 feet) from the Arequipa-Chivay road via the north fork of the Río Sulluma and the southwest ridge, traversing to the northwest peak, which is the highest one.John Ri...
Pata de Indio and Cerro Agua Negra, Central Andes. The newly opened international pass of Agua Negra, connecting San Juan, Argentina with La Serena, Chile, has made for easier access to the mountains. Alfredo Ceballos and I walked from the hamlet ...
FALL ON ROCK, POOR POSITION—IMPROPER SPOTTINGColorado, Horsetooth ReservoirOn May 28, 1985, Paul Beiser and I (Joe Eyre, 28) were bouldering at Horsetooth Reservoir. I was spotting for Beiser when he fell from two to three meters above me. He land...
California, Yosemite National Park. On 17 October Karel Dohnal (26), was leading his first direct aid climb on the Camp Four Tree route. He had placed direct aid pitons to a position approximately 25 feet up the vertical wall. He then placed a dir...
LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FULL PACKAND STEEP SLOPEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn July 3, 1987, Piotr Jankowiak (35), of the four-man Polish Denali Expedition, fell almost 800 meters to his death while descending the Messner Couloir. Jankowiak ...
Bona and Churchill, Wrangell-St. Elias Mountains. A considerable number of people have been climbing in the Bona-Churchill group. Dave Custer believes that a total of 22 climbers in five separate parties attempted Bona in May and June, of whom som...