Asgard, East Face, Baffin Island. Ian Parsons and I repeated the 1972 route on the east face of Asgard. We climbed the 4000-foot face on July 16 to 18 in very variable weather. We were forced to bivouac in bad weather below the start of the face, ...

Illampu and Illimani, Cordillera Real. Active this year were Yugoslav, Mexican and Japanese expeditions as well as the "International Expedition,” which the writer accompanied to Illampu (20,873 feet), in an attempt to make its third ascent. Inter...

Torre de Cristal, South Face. The Japanese Saburo Mizobuchi, Tetsuo Nagashino and Moritaka Yoda climbed a fine new route on the Torre de Cristal (18,140 feet), reaching the summit on July 25, 1976. They fixed rope on the lower 800 feet of the sout...

Ape Lake, Monarch Icefield Area. From June 18 to July 8 Erin Corey, Anson “Ace” Moore, Eleen Baumann, and I made several new climbs in this area. From camps on the icefield we ascended Erehwon by the east ridge and Dagon’s south face on good rock....

Thunder Mountain, Attempt and Air Time. On May 12, Jim Donini and I flew into the Tokositna Glacier to attempt a route on the south side of Thunder Mountain. The climb, which splits two huge rock buttresses, is a 3,000-foot alpine gully capped wit...

Proceedings, symposia on Arctic Biology and Medicine: v. Nutritional Requirements for Survival in the Cold and at Altitude, Vaughan, Lucile A., Editor. Arctic Aero-medical Laboratory, Fort Wainwright, Alaska; 363 pages, 1965.This book contains the...

Hopkins Valley region summary. Exceeding the Aoraki Mt. Cook area for new routes, this accessible area continues to receive attention from a handful of motivated climbers. In the 2004 New Zealand Alpine Journal (NZAJ) Ross Cullen (guidebook author...

Mount Shuksan, North Rib. Mount Shuksan’s north rib located between the north face route and the northeast Price Glacier route was first climbed by John Holland, Steve Marts, Jerry Feucht, and me. The common approach for north face routes was used...

California, Yosemite National Park (2)— On the morning of August 25, William Amborn, an experienced rock climber, and James Ware (22) a climber of intermediate experience, set out to climb Sunnyside Bench. The climb is one of moderate difficulty a...

Appalachian Mountain Club. Much executive and staff planning work has been done during the past year toward meeting the great demands being placed on the public service facilities and services of the Appalachian Mountain Club. Our membership reach...

Eastern Ranges, Central Peru. This tract of country is especially ill-famed for grass and bush fires during the dry season. Visibility is so much reduced by the incessant smoke that I visited these mountains at another time of the year whenever po...

Grand Canyon, Clay Tank Castle, first ascent. Andy Martin, while searching topo maps for high points, discovered that the second highest butte in the Canyon was an unnamed, unclimbed redwall butte in the far west end of the Grand Canyon. He told m...

For the past two years fellow Diamond lover Eric Doub had been calling and sending topos of a possible 5.13 on the Diamond of Long’s Peak. He’d put considerable work into the project, which he’d named The Honeymoon is Over. He told me of clean, st...

Dhaulagiri I, Southeast Ridge. The extraordinarily difficult southeast ridge of Dhaulagiri, attempted unsuccessfully by the American party in 1973, was climbed by Japanese but at a high cost in lives. The 18-man party was led by Seiko Tanaka. On S...

Antarctica, Various Ascents. From December 3,1997 to January 19, 1998,I was in Antarctica, providing light service and ground support for scientific and recreational expeditions for Adventure Network International (ANI). During that time, I was in...

Foraker. Our expedition to Foraker via the west ridge consisted of Mark Dale, Juan Esteban Lira, John Mason and me. Foraker was first ascended in August 1934 by the west ridge with an approach via the Foraker Glacier. The second ascent of the west...

Yosemite Valley, Mama, Flying in the Mountains, Homeworld. On January 9 I experienced the most crushing and empowering day of my life, sitting by my mother’s side as she took her last breaths. One of the last things she said to me as we held each ...

Annapurna II Tragedy. A six-man Japanese expedition was attempting to climb the north face of Annapurna II. While descending on April 26 from 22,650-foot Camp IV, the leader Ikuo Tanabe slipped and fell some 50 feet, severely injuring himself. Alt...

Escudo, North Ridge, Previously Unreported. Ralph Thäusing and I climbed the North Ridge of Escudo in March, 1993. It had already been climbed by Jerry Gore and Andy Perkins three months before (see 1993 AAJ, p. 197); however, we didn’t know this....

Commissioner Buttress. Ranger Rock, or Manure Pile Buttress as it is more commonly known, is frequented for its fine low-angle face climbs such as After Six and Nutcracker Sweet. In March, Joe Faint and I climbed a steep buttress about 500 feet to...