East Peak of Ingalls Peak, Southeast Face. This ascent was made in the fall by Gene Prater, Don Anderson, and Jim Richardson. There was some class 5 climbing involved, and the total ascent required slightly over four hours.
Great Trango Tower, Northeast Buttress. The northeast buttress of the Great Trango Tower was successfully climbed by Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Doeli in 1984 but tragically they both died during the descent. Despite various tries, t...
Mrigthuni. An Indian group from Serampore climbed Mrigthuni (22,490 feet) on September 28. Nitai Roy, Sisir Ghosh, Swapan Sikdar, Rajani Rakshit, Ranjit Rit, Yadav Singh and Sher Singh reached the top.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Big Kangaroo, South Face. Although it is probably the largest face on Kangaroo Ridge, the south wall of its highest point is seldom seen by climbers since it is shielded by the crested towers of the south summit ridge. To reach the foot of the wal...
Miyar Valley, upper glacier exploration and short new routes. A four-strong party from England and Scotland (Graham Little, Jim Lowther, Kevin Kelly, and myself) visited the Miyar Valley in May. The area offers large granite walls in a mountain se...
P 6193, Bhagirathi Group, and Manda II Attempts. From August 20 to September 30, six Slovenes led by Marko Vrevc attempted two unclimbed faces in the Gangotri region. They split into two parties. Matjaž Jamnik and Miha Kajzelj tried to complete th...
Various Ascents in the Cordillera Blanca. Our group's objective was to visit two valleys: Quebrada Ishinca and Laguna Paron, the latter for a possible wall route on the Sphinx and the former for its numerous alpine faces. In Quebrada Ishinca, our ...
FALL ON SNOW, OFF ROUTE, INEXPERIENCEDWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Middle TetonOn May 30, 1992, a climber (20) and his partner were on the way down what they thought was the Southwest Couloir of the Middle Teton, at 1630 and fell about 800 ...
This Sculptured Earth (The Landscape of America), by John A. Shimer, New York: Columbia University Press, 1959. 248 pages, ills. Price $7.50. Beautifully legible type, and a continuity of description on the processes which produced our country’s w...
The Titan, The Wasteland. It was reported that Walt Shipley and Bill Lee nailed “what may be the Titan’s last natural line,” The Wasteland (A3+ 5.8), an 1,100-foot nine-pitch route that required roughly 35 bolts. It lies on the tower’s west face, ...
Devils Tower, The Sabre. Tex Bossier and I made this new route on the west face in six hours of difficult climbing. It lies between the McCarthy and Vulture routes. It follows a thin aid crack for 300 feet, with belays in slings, passes a roof on ...
Chain of Mont Blanc. A new hut with capacity of 100-150, for summer climbing and spring skiing, is to be built near the site of the present Grands Mulets, and a similar structure will also be placed at 2600 m. on the Trélatête Glacier. On August 1...
Rainbow Wall, Sauron ’s Eye and Emerald City. Brian McCray and I had eyed the most obvious feature of the Rainbow Wall, a huge arch in the center of the wall that expands up half the wall, for some time. Mike Ward had started a route on the right ...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE—Wyoming, The Tetons. David Jensen (age unknown) signed out at the Jenney Lake Ranger Station on July 4 to climb the North East Snowfields route of Mount Owen. He was unsuccessful, and near the top of the Run — Don t Wa...
Udren Glacier. Alfons Hagn, leader, Franz Meiberger, Herbert Schmuck and Arne Stainer of the Lofer Section of the Austrian Alpine Club (Ö.A.V.) wanted to attempt P 6999 (22,963 feet) and the north peak of Istor-o-Nal (23,780 feet) from the souther...
Devils Thumb, Mount Burkett, Northeast Ridge and Other Peaks, Stikine Icefield. Dave Dahl, Bruce Tickell, Bill Zaumann and I spent three-and-a-half days in early July snow-shoeing up the Baird Glacier system from Thomas Bay to a previously placed ...
Nance Peak, Supercleavage. This peak, actually a dome, rises out of some of the most remote territory in Yosemite National Park. The 1500-foot south face is split by an enormous couloir leading straight to the summit. Tim Butler, Joe Kiskis and I ...
Bipeng Valley, Longgesali. On September 3-4 Saburo Mizobuchi, Keiichi Nagatomo, Naoki Ohuchi, and Tomohiro Sugai climbed a new route (400m, 13 pitches, IV AO) on Longgesali (a.k.a. Panyanjuhui, 5,420m). They also made unsuccessful attempts on the ...
McMillan Spire, North Face. This much talked-about face was finally-climbed on July 16 by Jerry Fuller and me on a three-day traverse of the Southern Picket Range. Our plan was to go light, with a minimum of food, cooking and equipment. We slept i...
Argentine-Chile boundary. The first ascent of Mt. Fitzroy (11,500 ft.) in Patagonia is reported to have been made in January 1952 by two French climbers, members of a party from the Section Lyon- naise of the Club Alpin Français. Fitzroy, a specta...