Torre Central, Bonington-Whillans. This route was repeated alpine-style by the strong team of Carsten Birckhamn (German) and Andren McAuley (Australia), in December, 1995, after they had climbed the Torre del Norte two times by the Monzino Route. ...
First Year of the Yale Mountaineering Club. On 1 May 1947 the Yale Mountaineering Club became an official organization recognized by the University. During the rest of the academic year, the Club’s activities were limited in scope. Every week end,...
The Watchtower, Timex and Nightwatch. On August 15 Dick Saum, Steve Tucker and I climbed “Timex,” a fine free route on the imposing main face of this formation near the head of Tokopah Valley. High-quality climbing characterized the route with som...
Mt. Hooker, Year of the Horse. Hiring horses and taking the “long way in” from Dickenson Park, Jeff Maus, Kevin Dunkak and I spent 11 of 21 days scouting, fixing and climbing a 13-pitch route on the north face of Mt. Hooker. (This line shares grou...
Lasontay, 1982. On August 10, 1982 all members of an Italian expedition, D. De Nigro, A. Farina, C. Roberti, P., G., A. and M. Gatti, M. Barcelli, E. Moreschi, O. Brembilla, A. Perico and S. Gambirasio, reached the summit of Lasontay Oeste (5330 m...
South Chasm Wall, Burlgirl. In March Mike Shepherd and I had a vision of free climbing Bull Girl (5.11 A4). We thought we’d need a lot of time to clean and find a way to free the aid, so we spent two nights on the 2,000' climb. Three pitches up we...
Mummery Group, Canadian Rockies. A number of first ascents were made from the Alpine Club of Canada Camp. “Lorenzen” is really a long ridge with a number of broken towers. The two highest pinnacles at the west end of the ridge were climbed on July...
Ranrapalca, Southwest Face, and Other Climbs. A party from the Klub Wysokogórski Warszawa was led by Wlodzimierz Rudolf. Ryszard Kolakowski and Tomasz Kopys made the first ascent of the southwest face of Ranrapalca on June 29. In eight hours they ...
Upper Powell Glacier and Upper Barnard Glacier, various ascents and ski descents. Mike Meekins flew Dave Kinsella (Ireland), Wilfred Glanznig (Austria), Wolfgang Huber (Austria), and me into the upper Powell Glacier on the north side of the Chugac...
PULLED ROCK OFF–FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, EXCEEDING ABILITIESOregon, Smith Rock State Park, Misery Ridge MesaOn October 17, Brent Bishop (19) and his friend Jason (19) were scrambling the fourth class route to the top of the Misery Ridg...
Pico Gotico, West Face, New Route. On August 26-27, Erik and Grigota Monasterio established the highest pure rock route done in Bolivia. From a high camp at 5250 meters, one hour west-southwest of Laguna Glaciar (5038m) on the moraine directly bel...
San Lorenzo, East Ridge. Casimiro Ferrari, Danilo Valsecchi, Annibale Borghetti and Maurizio Villa made the sixth ascent of San Lorenzo and the second ascent of the east ridge in January. Their route was somewhat more directly on the ridge than th...
Siguniang, North Face Attempt. Our expedition spent three weeks in the small, isolated Siguniang Range in western Sichuan province during the post-monsoon season. The members of our trip included Jim Kanzler, Jim Donini, Kim Schmitz and me as clim...
Cerro Fitz Roy, Various Activity. The classic Franco-Argentine Route appears to have had just one ascent, by Philippe Wheelock and Brad McMillon (U.S.), with Markus Pucher (Austria), on December 2, 2000. El Corazon on Fitz Roy’s east face was atte...
Hunter, Southwest Ridge to South Summit. After encountering chest-deep snow on the Lowe-Kennedy route, Andy Jenson, Cory Brettmann, Dave Karl and I had Jim Okonek fly us to the south side of Mount Hunter. We had our eyes set on the southwest ridge...
California, Banner Peak. On 3 September Jared L. Wright (26) was killed when he fell as he attempted to climb the peak.Source: Newspaper clipping; Tom Jukes, Joseph T. Rodel — Forest Supervisor.
In 2003 Steffan Laetsch, Frank Polte, and Jens and Michael Richter from Germany attempted a new route on the south face of Apostelens Tommelfinger. After climbing 1,600m up to UIAA VIII- A2 45°, they were forced to give up at a point estimated to ...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCE British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Yoho National ParkOn December 28,1986, a climber was attempting to lead the first steep pitch on Massey Waterfall. He put in one ice screw part way up the pitch, a...
Chimney Rock, Selkirk Crest. On August 19, Ann Robertson and I made the first ascent of a new three-pitch route on the north side of Chimney Rock. The first lead was a superb 5.10c crack system that split the middle of an obvious prow just a few f...
“Ces Monts sublimes.” Les Ecrivains a la Montagne, by Claire- Eliane Engel and Charles Vallot. 8 vo. ; 304 pages, with bibliography, index and 8 illustrations by Samivel. Paris : Librairie Delagrave (15 Rue Soufflot), 1936.This volume is the secon...