Tana and Bremner glaciers, first ascents. On June 8 Paul Claus landed Mike Crafts, Phil Tatman, Ben Traxler, and me on the col between the Tana and Bremner glaciers. Paul had not landed before in this area, which is covered on the Bering Glacier q...
FALL ON ROCK, HAND-HOLD BROKE OFFAlberta, Banff National Park, Lake Minnewanka Valley, Devils Gap, MacadamiaOn July 31, a 30-year-old climber suffered serious injuries after falling 40 feet while leading Macadamia (5.9) near Devil’s Gap in Banff N...
Himalchuli Tragedy. A nine-man Japanese expedition, led by Hisatoshi Takabayashi, hoped to make a new route on Himalchuli, the south face to the west ridge. Shunji Nishida and two Sherpas reached 21,325 feet on the west face on September 30 where ...
McKinley South Face, New Route. Josef Rakoncaj and I came to Alaska at the end of April. We flew to the Kahiltna Glacier. We climbed slowly as high as Denali Pass on the West Buttress. After acclimatizing to the altitude and cold, on May 17, Rakon...
Landscapes of Alaska, by members of the U. S. Geological Survey, in cooperation with the National Park Service, U. S. Department of the Interior, edited by Howel Williams, 148 pages, 23 illustrations, 6 maps, 3 figures, glossary and index. Berkele...
On October 14, Dawa Lama Sherpa and I climbed the southwest face of Chulu West by a direttissima. From a camp at 4300 meters, we made a reconnaissance toward the glacier at the base of the face. We found the glacier full of séracs and open crevass...
San Braullo, West Glacier; Alccachaya, South Ridge; Quimsachata Este, Via de las Vizcachas. In July and August I led an Andes expedition group in the southern half of the Vilcanota. We traveled to the mountains via the city of Cuzco and the villag...
Mt. Shkhelda, Second West Peak, North Face, New Route. In the beginning of January, I started my new project, “Open Caucasus,” the goal of which is to promote an interest in the Caucasus region through a series of extreme first ascents from 2001 t...
Huayna Potosí, Probable New Route on the West Face, Cordillera Real. Martin Wolf and I camped at the foot of the west face of Huayna Potosí and on July 28 started at 5100 meters up a relatively objectively safe spur on the right side of the face. ...
Cerro Torre, Spiral Route. Since my first visit to Patagonia, in 1998, I dreamed of linking the Marsigny-Parkin to the Ferrari (Ragni di Lecco) to the top of Cerro Torre, which was first done by Kelly Cordes and Colin Haley. I never had the opport...
Mount Everest Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Joan Massons, Antoni Ricart, Nil Bohigas, Jordi Canals, Jordi Camprubí, Oscar Cadiach, Jo- sep María Durán, Lluís Gómez, Enric Lucas, Miquel Sánchez, Antoni Sors and me as leader. Our route was...
Aconcagua, 2002-2003 season overview. Aconcagua Park saw a record 5,519 people enter for trekking or climbing, 20 percent more than last year. This increase can be explained by the devaluation of the Argentine peso and by a series of improvements ...
Gorichen, Pachakshiri Range. A 12-man team from the Assam Regiment was led by Captains R.K. Bhardwaj and G.V.S. Prasad. Base Camp was set up at Merathang beyond Ghokarsomon on September 25. They established two high camps. On October 5, Captain Bh...
Herden Glocken, by Jürg Klages. 4to; text and 78 pages of photos by the author. Zürich: Rotapfel Verlag, 1952. Price Sw. Fr. 19.50.The author, with rucksack and camera, has crossed his mountain homeland of northeastern Switzerland, recording the s...
Huantsán, East Ridge. August 8 saw the meeting of two separate expeditions at the foot of Huantsán. One group comprised 13 French, nine men and four women, and the other, three French, two Americans, an Australian and a Peruvian porter. Thus with ...
Washington—Mt. Stuart: Robert Grant (19) and Paul Brikoff (20) set out early on August 10, 1952 to climb Mt. Stuart (9,470 feet). The weather was clear at the start. They were climbing by the west ridge when a storm overtook them. It became cloudy...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Boulder CanyonOn February 9, Gary Wheeler (33) fell 15 meters and slid another 30 meters, landing at the base of a waterfall and against a tree.Wheeler had climbed the waterfall, tied a rope around a tree...
Labuche Kang. Labuche Kang lies between Cho Oyu and Shishapangma. The joint expedition of the Tibetan Mountaineering Association and the Himalayan Association of Japan was led by Cheng Tian Liang with deputy leader Ken’ichi Yamamori. There were ni...
Austvagoy, Alkoholvegen, Prohibition and Drink it Up. Four young Slovak climbers, Andrej Harsany (21), Jan Harsany (16), Peter Nes- ticky (20) and Marcel Zemko (19) visited the Lofoten Islands from June 19 to July 15. On June 29 they put up two ne...
El Capitan, New Route. It was reported that Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe and Lori Reddle put up a new A5 route on El Capitan in November. The route climbs 14 pitches from Lay Lady Lay Ledge to the rim. The route took 10 days and features a crux p...