In late July, with help from American Alpine Club grants, Emily Stifler, Lorna Illingworth, and I helicoptered to the base of Mt. Proboscis in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, Northwest Territories. We spent 25 days in the area and flew o...

Climber’s Guide to the Teton Range. Leigh N. Ortenburger and Reynold G. Jackson. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1995. 414 pages, $39.00.There are guidebooks and then there are guidebooks. Some are samplers, leading you into a region and describing a f...

(21) California, Clark Range, Yosemite National Park. On 8 August Tom Opperman (21) left Tuolumne Meadows area, planning to hike to Merced Lake, then to climb Mt. Clark, traverse the east sides of Grey and Red Peaks, hike to Glacier Point, and ret...

Kangikitsoq Fjord, Tupilak Tower, Sandro e Vito; Lorenzo Peak, first ascent, Freedom Pillar route. “In the footsteps of Vikings” (Mark Richey, AAJ 2001) was the inspiration for our 2004 to trip in Greenland. In the first week of bad weather Sergio...

Northern Cordillera BlancaWilliam Katra, UnaffiliatedTHE three of us were in agreement. We had one of the most unorganized—but not disorganized—expeditions ever to attempt big things in the Andes. Frankly, we liked it that way, with a minimum of h...

The Ascent of Mt. SteeleWalter A. Wood, Jr.ABOUT 40 miles north of Mt. Logan, in Yukon Territory, lies a group of peaks which, while more publicized neighbors have been visited, climbed and studied, has remained comparatively neglected. Due to the...

FALL ON ROCK/SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Wind RiversThe following report was sent in by Mark Dale, who was also involved in searching for the victim in the previous report. Dale and his climbing partner, Jeff Hunt, cut their plann...

M.P.O. 1314, Edmonton, Alta., Dec. 9, 1943. Dear Dr. Thorington:I’ve just written to H. E. G. Tyndale, Editor of A. J., suggesting that as soon after the war as possible there should be a joint Anglo-American Expedition to Mt. Everest. This should...

Modern Yosemite ClimbingYvon ChouinardYosemite climbing is the least known and understood and yet one of the most important schools of rock climbing in the world today. Its philosophies, equipment and techniques have been developed almost independ...

Climbers and Hikers Guide to the World’s Mountains. Michael R. Kelsey, Kelsey Publishing Company (Springville, Utah), 679 pages, 318 maps. $17.95.I recall discussing with a climbing friend many years ago the relative merits of specialization versu...

P 12,606, Fairweather Range. On April 24 Bill Sumner, Mike Heath and I reached Base Camp at 6500 feet on the Fairweather Glacier, hoping to climb either Mount Salisbury (12,170 feet), P 12,606 or both. Continual bad weather pinned us down for the ...

SLIP ON ROCK, IMPROPER TECHNIQUE, IMPROPER INSTRUCTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HAT North Carolina, Table Rock(On September 20,1986, Elizabeth Crosscope [35] was climbing with two friends [35 and 32] in an area known as “The Devil’s Courthous...

TRIP/FALL ON SNOW–TWICE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST–FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierOn July 7 at 0720, John Lucia (31), a guide with Rainier Mountaineering Incorporated (RMI), was leading a rope team up the Ingraham Glacier...

The 1931 Mountaineering Season in Grand Teton National ParkThe popularity of the Tetons has reached a point where it is something of a problem to keep tab of all the ascents made each season, but through the zeal of the national park rangers stati...

All Japan Mount St. Elias Expedition, 1964Shiro Nishimae, Federation of All Japan Mountaineering UnionsWe Japanese have found with satisfaction that we can enjoy a big climb in Alaska with only four weeks of vacation, less than 500 kilograms of ge...

Island of the Blue Macaws and Sixteen Other Stories, by James Ramsey Ullman. 320 pages. Philadelphia and New York: J. B. Lippincott Co., 1953. Price, $3.50.This collection of seventeen stories, selected by the author from the 40 he has written sin...

This was the first full season of operations at ALE’s new camp on the south side of the Union Glacier. Situated in the southern Heritage Range, itself the southern section of the Ellsworth Mountains, the camp is much closer to a multitude of climb...

FALLING ROCKCalifornia, King’s Canyon, The HermitA group of four experienced climbers (Doug Mantle, Randy Danta, Tina Stough, Joe Stephens) were completing an extended peak climbing trip on The Hermit (3759 meters) in the Evolution area. On August...

Mount McKinley’s Pioneer RidgeSev Heiberg, Alpine Club of CanadaOne of the few easily accessible routes on Mount McKinley that remained unclimbed, Pioneer Ridge, leads up to the north peak from the northeast and separates the Muldrow Glacier from ...

FALL ON ROCK, LOWERING FAILURE–NO BELAY OR BACKUPNorth Carolina, Little Pinnacle, Pilot Mountain State ParkOn May 23, a group of 35 Boy Scouts of America leaders were participating in high-angle rescue training at Pilot Mountain State Park.Their a...