EDWARD WARREN HARNDEN 1865 - 949Mountaineers are always indebted to those who, after exploring a region and discovering the enjoyment of it for themselves, take pains through their writing to induce others to follow after them and experience simil...

These two easy summits are located in the Ghujerab Muztagh, the range between the Shimshal and Ghujerab rivers [referred to as the Karun Koh group on the Miyamori Japanese maps—Ed.]. They lie close to the Boesam pass on the main route from Shimsha...

Arctic Wilderness, by Robert Marshall. Edited, with an introduction, by George Marshall. Foreword by A. Starker Leopold. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1956. xxvi, 171 pages; ills.; maps. Price $3.75.Here is truly a book of mountaineeri...

SEVERE WEATHER - FROSTBITE, HYPOTHERMIA, COMMUNICATION PROBLEMSWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierOn the evening of May 20, a report came into Camp Muir describing a bad scene in which a guided team of twelve (four guides and eight clients...

The SaberA pitch a day and bone-numbing cold define the first two routes on the north face of Gora Sablya, the biggest wall in the northern Urals) Russia.By Konstantin BeketovNowhere is the frontier of Europe more clearly expressed than in the eas...

DAVID ALSOP CARTER 1907-1988David Alsop Carter died in Pueblo, Colorado on February 9, 1988 of lung cancer. Bom on January 16, 1907 in Lansdowne, Pennsylvania, Dave developed a love of the outdoors early in life, spending the summers at the family...

Great Trango Tower, northwest face, completion of Ukrainian route (2003) and new variation to Azeem Ridge; Broad Peak, attempt. In the summer of 2007 the Krasnoyarsk Federation of Alpinism, with support of the administration of the Krasnoyarsk Reg...

Problems in the Geology of Mountains, by Joel E, Fisher, 8vo., 80 pages, with 41 illustrations (mostly photographs pasted in the text). New York: published privately, 1944.Many Alpinists perhaps do not realize that their wide and varied experience...

Mount Kennedy, North Ridge, First Ascent. In 1968, Todd Thompson, Joe Faint, Philip Koch, and David Seidman made the first ascent of the north ridge (56 pitches, Alaskan Grade VI 5.8 A3) of Mt. Kennedy (13,905 feet) from June 26 to July 29, reachi...

RAPPEL ANCHOR CAME OUT, FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount MoranRK (23) and JG (20) died of multiple injuries late Friday, September 17, or early Saturday, September 18, 1993, when they fell while climbing the South Buttress of ...

Missing in the Minarets: The Search for Walter A. Starr, Jr. William Alsup. Foreword by Glen Dawson. Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Association, 2001. 215 pages, numerous black-and- white photographs. $24.95. Note: All profits from the Yosemite ...

Dihedral PerspectivesLessons learned during my first decade of free climbing on El Capitan.Tommy CaldwellI really had no chance at being a dentist, lawyer, or anything generally considered respectable. In retrospect, becoming an adventure climber ...

The Mountain EnvironmentThe year in garbageby Brent Bishop and Chris NaumannIn the United States and around the globe, there is a growing awareness that climbers must take responsibility for their environmental impacts and even clean up after othe...

Niwu Valley, Chukporisum (6,359m), attempt. In September 2003 a team of four members traveled to the little-explored Nyainqentangla East range in Tibet. Situated 400km northeast of Lhasa, this range has seen little exploration or climbing to date ...

Freeing Zion's Thunderbird WallA big payoff for a long apprenticeship in sandstone climbing.Michael AndersonWhat could cause overworked grown men to piss away their valuable time bickering like old married couples? Why, the Internet, of course! Th...

Kangchenjunga Himal, Zemu Gap (5,861m), first documented ascent from the south. Reaching Zemu Gap from the south proved a long-standing mountaineering problem. The Gap (27°40'9?N, 88°12'53?E) lies on the high ridge extending east from the south su...

Cathedral Wall, Altar Boy. In mid-July Doug Snively and I made the first ascent of Altar Boy (III, 5.8) on the Cathedral Wall. It generally ascends the obvious open-book to the right of the Dalke Route. The climb yielded seven pitches of separatel...

CEREBRAL EDEMA, ALTITUDE SICKNESSAlaska, Mt. McKinleyOn June 1, Bruce Hickson (22), Tom Crouch (23), and George Gonzales (26), members of an Air Force training team which had climbed the West Buttress, were camped at 18,000 feet at Denali Pass wai...

Suitilla, Attempt. It was reported that a five-member team from Bombay attempted the “Peak of Needles,” unclimbed Suitilla (6373m), via the southwest face/southwest rib in 1997. The approach took nearly three times as long as normal (14 days) due ...

Kulu Pumori. Shib Shankar Das led an Indian expedition which climbed Kulu Pumori (6553 meters, 21,500 feet). This beautiful pyramid stands in the center of the Bara Shigri Glacier. On September 6, leader Sib Shankar Das, Dipen Samanta, Arupam Das,...