Peaks near Ausangate, Cordillera Vilcanota. On June 30 Herman Plugge, Margreet Hogeweg, Pauline Willinge, Bert Vonk and I left the Hacienda Tinqui for the mountains and on July 2 Hogeweg and I climbed Campa I (17,996 feet) on the way to Base Camp ...

Dhaulagiri II, Postmonsoon Attempt. A second Japanese expedition, this one from Kyoto and led by Yasuo Onishi, attempted the same route climbed by the Nagoya expedition but failed. The highest point reached on a summit attempt was some 800 feet fr...

Mt. Vinson Area, Various Ascents. On January 3, Viki Groselj, Stane Klemenc, Rafko Vodisek (Slovenia) and Stipe Bozic, Josko Bojic (Croatia) arrived in the Patriot Hills Base Camp. On the same day, we took a one-hour flight to Base Camp at the foo...

Annapurna III Tragedy. Our Australian team was Colin Monteath, climbing leader, Jack Higgs, Steve Colman, Nick Reeves, Adrian Blake, John Chester, Steve McDowell, Geof Bartram, Stafford Morse, Faye Kerr, Dr. Brian Fearnley, Dr. Ken Bowes, Ray John...

Cuerno Norte, West Face, Nacimientos. On February 13, Andre Labarca, Claudio Retamal and Luis Ortiz (Chile) finished a new route on the west face of Cuerno Norte. Nacimientos (V 5.10 Al, 15 pitches) was climbed in 18 hours from Advanced Base Camp....

Mount Conness, North Ridge. The north ridge of Mount Conness (12,590 feet) is a mile long cleaver dropping vertically on the east to the Conness Glacier and falling away at 70° for thousands of feet on the west. Barry Hagen and I apparently comple...

Dhaulagiri. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Ken Kanazawa climbed Dhaulagiri by the standard northeast ridge. On October 17 Toichiro Mitani and Jun’ichi Tanaka got to the summit. They had three camps above Base Camp.Michael J. Cheney, Himalay...

Exotic Rock. Sam Lightner, Jr. Self-published. P.O. Box 591, Teton Village, WY, 83025. Color and black-and-white photos. 138 pages. $24.95.Comment: Though Lightner’s coverage of each area seems scanty, half the world is included: Hong Kong, Malays...

Great Trango Tower, Korean Fantasy, Previously Unreported. From June 21-August 19, 1997, expedition members Sang-Jo Lee (leader), Youn-Jung Shin (f), Choi Seung-Chol and Hyung- Jin Kim established a variation to the Norwegian Buttress Route on the...

Lhotse Shar Attempt. Spaniards Josema Casimiro, Joaquín Goñi, Jorge Corominas and Mikel Otermin, led by Mari Abrego, failed to climb the southeast ridge of Lhotse Shar. From the time they established Base Camp in the last days of March, they were ...

Churen Himal West Attempt. A team of four Northern Irishmen attempted Churen Himal West by its southwest face. From Camp I, on May 4 leader Dawson Stelfox and Martin Manson reached the team’s high point of 21,500 feet while the other two members, ...

Elqui Valley and Los Corrales Valley, first ascents. In the upper Elqui Valley and on the Chilean-Argentinean border east of the town of Vicuna there seems to be a number of unclimbed mountains, all rising above very arid plains and valleys. The f...

Peak North of Mount Tyr. From July 14 to 19, Walter Obergolser, Reinhard Siller, Claus Obrist, Karl Hofer and I climbed a difficult new route of 17 pitches on the peak north of Mount Tyr (VI, 5.7 to 5.12a, A0). We ascended the north face of the bu...

Unnamed Peak (6248 m), first ascent. This peak lies southeast of Ramjak on the opposite side of the valley and was climbed for the first time on August 15 by Indians, Nitin Gandhi, Paresh Rathod, and Sudhir Raut. These three set up base camp at Ch...

Kamet Attempt and Abi Gamin, 1989. Ours was the first joint Indian-Netherlands expedition. We were Indians N.D. Sherpa, overall leader, Wangchuk Sherpa, Shiromanu Singh, Ramesh Chand Kapoor, Purmal Singh Dharmashaktu and Netherlanders Frans Tasela...

Zebak Area. Two other Polish expeditions were in the Zebak area. The Krakow Academic Alpine Club Expedition was led by Marian Bala. On July 27 S. Jaworski and M. Rusinow climbed Kohe Ratkhut (c. 19,160 feet; Wala-Zebak 217) and Rakhe Har, East and...

Aguja Guillaumet, All-Woman Ascent. In 1994, Argentines Marcela Antonucci and Patricia Malatesta made the first all-woman ascent of the Argentine route on the northwest spur of the Aguja Guillaumet, which was first climbed in 1965 by José Luis Fon...

P 4810, 1000 Years of Russian Christianity, Piramidalny and Other Peaks, Pamir Alai, Kirgizia. Tierry Schmitter, Matthijs van Hasselt, Hans Lanters and I climbed many peaks during our five-week stay in the Asan region. Together with our hosts from...

Redgarden Wall, Le Void, Eldorado Canyon. Le Void, a spectacular and long-standing aid climb, was done all-free late this August. The ascent involved substantial difficulties, most notably the previously freed 5.11 section and a leaning hand crack...

Kalanka, north face attempt. This 2,000-meter face has only a single route, climbed by a Czechoslovakian team using fixed ropes in 1977 during the mountain’s second ascent. Several teams have failed to climb the north buttress, a line in the middl...