Dhaulagiri, Pear Route. After many tries, the Pear Route on Dhaulagiri has finally been climbed. An 18-man Japanese expedition was led by Norio Sasaki. They established six camps, the highest at 26,100 feet. On October 18 Noboru Yamada, Kozu Komat...
LOSS OF CONTROL-VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS FALL ON SNOW, FATIGUEUtah, Mount Olympus, North FaceThe previous year we (Michael and Jane Feldhaus, 33 and 31), along with Paul (41) and Marion (36), had completed the same route on Mount...
Gams in ihrer Bergheimat, by Franz Graf Zedwitz. 8 vo., 73 pages, with 94 illustrations from photographs. Berlin-Lichterfeld: Hugo Bermiihler Verlag, 1939.One of the most expert German photographers and game observers has made a book of the chamoi...
Count Zero on HuntingtonClay Wadman, UnajfiliatedIn 1991, I SAT IN BASE CAMP with my friends Gordy Kito and Ritt Kellogg while Jay Smith and Paul Teare climbed the Phantom Wall. (See AAJ, 1992, pages 50-58.) We had been stormbound for ten days whe...
Travel and Mountaineering in the CaucasusWm. Osgood FieldIT is only within the last seventy years that foreigners have gone to the Caucasus to see the region, explore its valleys and climb its mountains. At first conditions of travel were very bad...
Colorado Climbing Notes, 1934The past climbing season in Colorado was even better than the memorable season of 1933, if we are to judge a season by the number of first ascents and new routes produced. Indeed, the past season records possibly eight...
Hooked on Traprock: Rock Climbing in Central Connecticut. Ken Nichols. Amereon House. Photos, cartoons. 504 pages. $27.95Comment: Ken’s talents as a guidebook writer are less famous than his exploits in the “bolting wars.” His descriptions are lim...
South Walsh, attempt. Our flight in was delayed for five days due to poor weather, and we left three days early due to the high probability of further poor flying conditions. Paul Geddes, Willa Haraysm, Dave McCormick, Ted Rosen, and I were on the...
AVALANCHEWashington, Mount ShuksanOn June 26, 1983, Peter Travis (19) and John Nelson (20) were killed when an avalanche on Price Glacier, on the north flank of Mount Shuksan, swept them down an avalanche chute and over a cliff.John Trombold, one ...
Mazamas. The Mazamas of Portland, Oregon had a most active year of mountaineering in 1961 under the direction of climbing chairman, Erwin Rieger. When a club adheres to a policy of well-organized, official climbs as do the Mazamas, there is necess...
P 5900, “Tekone Peak,” Tirich Mir Massif. Our expedition consisted of Mike Browning, Dana Coffield, Bruce and John Gordon, Ed Ramey and me as leader. On July 1 our expedition flew from Rawalpindi to Chitral and the next day took the three-hour jee...
Peak 4810, East Face, New Route. Alexander Pogorelov and Vitaly Polohov from Rostov-on-Don established a new route (6B, 1100m) on the east face of Peak 4810, fixing the initial pitches of the route from August 4-11, then climbing it from August 14...
Scholar Mountaineers, by Wilfrid Noyce. 164 pages, with 12 full- page illustrations and wood-engravings by R. Taylor. London: Dennis Dobson, 1950. Price, 12/6.What does the title Scholar Mountaineers lead one to expect? Maybe a series of essays ab...
Mt. Robson. Emperor Face, Haley-House. When I got the call, Joe Josephson was on the other end of the line. Joe and Barry Blanchard were looking for a third to join them on an attempt on the Emperor Face, and so began what we came to call “the ann...
Fifty Classic Climbs of North America, by Steve Roper and Allen Steck.San Francisco: Sierra Club Books, 1979. 324 pages, 189 photos.To those with a passion for active climbing or “armchair” participation, Fifty Classic Climbs may at first not seem...
The Reconnaissance of the Minya KonkaArthur B. Emmons, IIION the southeastern borders of Tibet, where the high plateau drops abruptly down into the fertile plains of Western China, lie several ranges of peaks which are generally looked upon as a c...
Nevado Quitaraju, south face. Brits Nick Bullock and Al Powell opened a new route on the great south wall of Nevado Quitaraju (6040m). This route is to the right of the Slovenian line (the only previous route on this wall). The first climbers expl...
GunnjØrns Fjeld, Watkins Mountains, East Greenland. This second phase of a joint Anglo-Danish project was concerned with exploration and scientific work in the Blosseville Coast area. The first phase in 1969 explored the inland icecaps and attempt...
Ján Smolen (Slovakia) and Ondra Beneš, Jiri Lautner, and Tomáš Sobotka (Czech Republic) established El Sendero De Los Indigenas (7c/UIAA 9), on the east face of Acopan Tepui from Jan 7—11. The 425m route has 11 pitches: 3, 7a, 7c, 7c, 7b, 6b, 6a, ...
Lhotse Shar. Lhotse Shar, the east peak of Lhotse, is difficult. Out of 20 expeditions attempting it from 1970 to 1988, only five have succeeded and seven climbers have fallen to their deaths on its slopes. A 16-man Swiss expedition of the Zermatt...