Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Guillaumet

Guillaumet. Shawn Tierney and I climbed the Fonrouge route on the northwest buttress of Guillaumet on January 1 and 2, 1994. We rate the 15-pitch climb as Grade IV or V, 5.9, A2.Perry Norris, Pacific Crest Outward Bound School


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Mt. Baden-Powell

California, Mt. Baden-Powell—On Jan. 9, Richard Skultin (29) and Alice Kuhn (27) were descending Mt. Baden-Powell after completing the ascent. The wind was strong and icy. On the descent they started across a steep slope—the footing was bad and tr...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall/Slip on Snow, Unroped, Inexperience—Washington, Mt. Olympus

FALL /SLIP ON SNOW, UNROPED, INEXPERIENCE—Washington, Mt. Olympus. On March 21, 1976, Kris Robertson, Mike Kalvelage, Bill Hansen and I left the Hoh River road on a scheduled six day attempt on Mt. Olympus. We camped the first night just below the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inexperience, Overcrowded Route, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett Peak

FALLING ROCK, INEXPERIENCE, OVERCROWDED ROUTEColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett PeakOn September 4, Labor Day, Tom(40) and Ed (42) had planned to climb Culp-Bossier on Hallet Peak. We got a late start as we got to the base of the clim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, CIS—Kirgizia, Tien Shan and Pik Pobedy Attempt

Tien Shan and Pik Pobedy Attempt. Our trekking group was allowed to travel from Kirgizstan over the Turugart Pass to Kashgar and the Mustagh Ata Base Camp, a route which has been cut off for decades. We were struck by the contrast between the gree...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Blob Rock, Limits of Power

Blob Rock, Limits of Power, Boulder Canyon. One of the more prominent routes that Rick Accomazzo and I put up in the Boulder area was Limits of Power. This is a strenuous 5.12 line right of Decade Dance and Ageing Time on Blob Rock. The first pitc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, P 5680, Pyramid Peak and P 5988, Parvati Valley, Kulu

P 5680, Pyramid Peak and P 5988, Parvati Valley, Kulu. A 5-man British expedition led by Oliver Shergold climbed several interesting peaks in the southern Parvati area. On September 16, Martin Jackson and Martin Shelley climbed P 5680 (18,635 feet...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Chilean Patagonia, South Tower and El Escudo, Attempts

South Tower and El Escudo, Attempts. A group of at least six Swiss (names unknown) attempted new routes on the east side of the South Tower and the right side of the main (lower) face on Escudo. Both failed to summit after 40 days of trying. They ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru-Cordillera Blanca, Milpocraju, West Face, Tsurup, Southwest Face, and Pisco Oeste, South Face

Milpocraju, West Face, Tsurup, Southwest Face, and Pisco Oeste, South Face. Our expedition was to make a filmed ascent of a major peak in the Cordillera Blanca. The film will be presented for the Mick Burke Award, 1985. We established Base Camp on...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Torre

Cerro Torre. Carlos Buhler and I set up Base Camp in the forest below Cerro Torre at the beginning of December. The weather in October and early November had been phenomenal and already over 20 persons had summited in 1987. With only a month in Pa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
United States, Alaska, Crown Jewell, Throne and "Plunger," Little Switzerland

Crown Jewell, Throne and “Plunger”, Little Switzerland. In August, Rob Heineman and I spent four days on the Pika Glacier between bouts of heavy rain. On August 4 we warmed up with a climb of the south face of the Throne. The following day, Heinem...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Yosemite National Park

California, Yosemite National Park. The body of David Roach (30), a park ranger who had been missing since last Friday (in August), was found at the bottom of the Cleaver, a knife-edged ridge in the eastern portion of the park. Roach had apparentl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Fairweather Carpé Ridge

Fairweather, Carpé Ridge. On June 11, Mike Daniel and I reached the summit of Fairweather (4669 meters, 15,320 feet) via the Carpé Ridge, by which the first ascent was made in 1931 by Alan Carpé and Terris Moore. Although they described the route ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Peaks

Peaks in Himachal Pradesh. Snow Cone (6335 meters, 20,456 feet) was ascended by a six-member team from Calcutta. They set up Base Camp at 5000 meters on the Bara Shigri Glacier on August 22. Camp II was set up between P 20,078 and Snow Dome. On Au...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam Attempt

Ama Dablam Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Masashi Tatsuta, Mrs. Joshimi Tatsuta, Seisuke Kurokawa, Miss Harumi Ichimura, Miss Kyoko Horikawa and I as leader. After climbing Imjatse, we attempted the north ridge of Ama Dablam. Mr. and Mrs. ...


Club Activities AAJ
The Mountaineers

Nuptse, Southwest Ridge Attempt. Swede Magnus Lekman and three Sherpas tried a new approach to an unclimbed ridge on Nuptse, a southwest ridge to a south rib. They gave up on October 24 after only a week when they found strong winds and route diff...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Nanda Ghunti East

Nanda Ghunti East. The Shinshu University Alpine Club Expedition was led by Kyoji Sugimoto. The other two members, Ichikawa and Furuzuka, climbed the East Peak (20,013 feet) on October 6.Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club


Accident Reports ANAM
Connecticut, Sleeping Giant State Park — Mt. Carmel

Connecticut, Sleeping Giant State Park—Mt. Carmel—On October 14, 1956 Robert W. French (22) was climbing on the Chin of The Sleeping Giant. He was considered by both the Yale Mountaineering Club and the Dartmouth Outing Club to be a strong, capabl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Former USSR, Khan Tengri and Pik Pobedy

Khan Tengri and Pik Pobedy. Our expedition was composed of Roger Payne, Iain Peter and Allen Fyffe from the UK and me from New Zealand. Our trip was arranged through the International Mountaineering Camp Khan Tengri based in Alma Ata. We were flow...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Selkirks, Pioneer Peak

Pioneer Peak. Two new routes were made to this summit on August 3. The more elegant was done by George Bell and David Michael. An abrupt buttress rises to a point just east of the summit from the Stickle branch of the Granite Glacier. From Fairy M...