Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Baltoro Muztagh, Shipton Spire, Ship of Fools

Shipton Spire, Ship of Fools. Anders Lundquist, Mattias Jakobsson, Karl Ljung and I reached Base Camp on June 21. After organizing the equipment and admiring what is probably the most beautiful Base Camp in the Karakoram, we started ferrying equip...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Shartse Attempt and Tragedy

Shartse Attempt and Tragedy. Erick Bourdais, Jean-Marc Perrot and I had hoped to climb Shartse by its south col and ridge. We established Base Camp at the foot of Island Peak at 5300 meters on October 14 and Camp I at 5600 meters after crossing th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Assiniboine and Robson Variants

Assiniboine and Robson Variants. Slovenes Tomo Virk, Dr. Martina Zupan-cic, Tatjana Cerar and I did many ascents in the Canadian Rockies, Bugaboos and Squamish in September. On September 4, Virk and I climbed a new variant on the steep right side ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Los Gemelos, the Slash South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres Del Paine

Graham Zimmerman and I left camp at 10:45 a.m. on January 25,2010, just after it stopped raining and snowing. At 2:30 p.m. we stood at the base of the previously unclimbed east face of Cerro Los Gemelos, or the Twins. The first pitch was a 5.9R ...

| Published 2010 | Author Ian Nicholson, AAC


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Fall into Crevasse, Weather, Oregon, Mount Hood

FALL ON SNOW, FALL INTO CREVASSE, WEATHER Oregon, Mount HoodOn July 11, 1987, at 0400, Arthur Anderson (59), Elmer Parrott (40) and Robert Cooke (30) left Timberline Lodge to start their ascent to the summit of Mount Hood. Being the most experienc...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Late Start, Weather, Exposure, Probable Fall on Snow/Ice (Two), and Hypothermia (One), Oregon, Mount Hood, Cooper Spur

STRANDED, LATE START, WEATHER, EXPOSURE, PROBABLE FALL ON SNOW/ ICE (TWO), AND HYPOTHERMIA (ONE)Oregon, Mount Hood, Cooper SpurThis high profile accident used such technological search tools as airborne thermal imaging, unmanned drones, and cellph...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Churen Himal West Attempt

Churen Himal West Attempt. Korean Kim Byoung-Hoon and a companion wanted to climb Churen Himal West by the west ridge. Kim and a Sherpa reached Camp II at 19,500 feet on April 5 but the next day he gave up because of frequent avalanches and the ve...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Northern Andes, Cerro el Cóndor, Possible First Ascent and Other Ascents

Cerro El Cóndor, possible first ascent and other ascents. In February and March some friends and I climbed Antofalla, a 6,409m (GPS 6,470m) volcano approximately 80km southeast of Llullaillaco. On the summit we found a 8m x 6m platform made by Inc...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado: (1) Needle Mountains

Colorado: (1) Needle Mountains. On 2 September 1951 Dale Johnson, a 20-year-old Colorado University student from Colorado Springs, fell 55 feet while climbing with one companion, Harry Nance of Denver. Neither the cause of the accident nor the par...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, North West Territories, Proboscis, Logan Mountains

Proboscis, Logan Mountains. In August, Spaniards José María Codina and Joaquím Olmo climbed the southeast face of Proboscis. They fixed rope on the lower half of the 700-meter-high wall. Their route probably mostly followed the 1963 first-ascent r...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, "Sled Ride" Down Snow, Climbing Alone, Distraction, California, Mount Shasta

FALLING ROCK, “SLED RIDE” DOWN SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE,DISTRACTIONCalifornia, Mount ShastaI was on the second day of a planned four-day ascent of Green Butte Ridge (to include a night on top) of Mount Shasta on May 8, 1989. I was alone and about 3450...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) and Tragedy

Gashebrum I (Hidden Peak) and Tragedy. Every expedition set up its Base Camp on the Gasherbrum Glacier on the western side of the peak because the southern approaches from the Abruzzi Glacier were banned by the military in view of the Indo-Pakista...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fatigue, Exposure, Party Separated, Fall on Snow, AMS, Dehydration, Inadequate Clothing, Alaska, Mount McKinley

FATIGUE, EXPOSURE, PARTY SEPARATED, FALL ON SNOW, AMS, DEHYDRATION, INADEQUATE CLOTHINGAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 14, 1991, four members of the Korean Blue Fire Expedition left their high camp at 18,200 feet at Denali Pass on the West Buttress r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Batura

Batura. Our expedition led by Piotr Mlotecki set out from Aliabad on June 6. The approach took five days. Base Camp was established on a beautiful meadow below the moraine of the Batoqshi Glacier at 4000 meters. On June 12, Camp I was placed at 46...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Lahaul, Ramjak, Attempt

Ramjak, attempt. This is a challenging 6318m unclimbed mountain with a sharp icy summit. The peak is located near the Shingo La (ca 5100m), which is crossed on a popular trekking route from Himachal Pradesh to Zanskar. Prior to 2001 there had been...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Lampak II Attempt

Lampak II Attempt. An Indian expedition from Bombay, composed of leader Ajit C. Shelat, Raju Waldalkar, Ajay Tambe and Prashant Bhagdikar, explored the previously unvisited Kalla Bank (glacier), north of Nanda Devi. Two attempts were made on Lampa...


Book Reviews AAJ
Rock Climbing in Britain

Rock Climbing in Britain. David Jones. Collins Willow, London, 1984. 192 pages, black and white and color photographs, charts, diagrams, map, glossary. £20.00.If I were Mick Lovatt, I’d be happy. Mick was lucky enough to get two beautiful action p...


Book Reviews AAJ
A Climber's Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia

A Climber’s Guide to the Interior Ranges of British Columbia, by J. Monroe Thorington. Third edition, 12mo, xii + 225 pages. New York: American Alpine Club, 1955. Price, $3.00 ($2.25 to members).The new edition of this guidebook anticipates the 19...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afgan Frontier Area, Kohe Hevad

Kohe Hevad. Another Polish expedition from Posnan to the Ishmurch valley was led by Jerzy Marcinkowski. They climbed Kohe Anoshah (17,356 feet) on August 7 and Kohe Hevad (22,471 feet) on August 14. Neither was a first ascent. On August 9 A. Dobek...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna South Face Tragedy

Annapurna South Face Tragedy. One of France’s foremost climbers, Pierre Beghin, and I had hoped to climb a new, difficult route on the south face of Annapurna between the 1970 British route and the 1981 Japanese one. Starting on September 29, we f...