Modern Yosemite ClimbingYvon ChouinardYosemite climbing is the least known and understood and yet one of the most important schools of rock climbing in the world today. Its philosophies, equipment and techniques have been developed almost independ...

Climbers and Hikers Guide to the World’s Mountains. Michael R. Kelsey, Kelsey Publishing Company (Springville, Utah), 679 pages, 318 maps. $17.95.I recall discussing with a climbing friend many years ago the relative merits of specialization versu...

P 12,606, Fairweather Range. On April 24 Bill Sumner, Mike Heath and I reached Base Camp at 6500 feet on the Fairweather Glacier, hoping to climb either Mount Salisbury (12,170 feet), P 12,606 or both. Continual bad weather pinned us down for the ...

SLIP ON ROCK, IMPROPER TECHNIQUE, IMPROPER INSTRUCTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, NO HARD HAT North Carolina, Table Rock(On September 20,1986, Elizabeth Crosscope [35] was climbing with two friends [35 and 32] in an area known as “The Devil’s Courthous...

TRIP/FALL ON SNOW–TWICE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST–FALL INTO CREVASSEWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierOn July 7 at 0720, John Lucia (31), a guide with Rainier Mountaineering Incorporated (RMI), was leading a rope team up the Ingraham Glacier...

The 1931 Mountaineering Season in Grand Teton National ParkThe popularity of the Tetons has reached a point where it is something of a problem to keep tab of all the ascents made each season, but through the zeal of the national park rangers stati...

All Japan Mount St. Elias Expedition, 1964Shiro Nishimae, Federation of All Japan Mountaineering UnionsWe Japanese have found with satisfaction that we can enjoy a big climb in Alaska with only four weeks of vacation, less than 500 kilograms of ge...

Island of the Blue Macaws and Sixteen Other Stories, by James Ramsey Ullman. 320 pages. Philadelphia and New York: J. B. Lippincott Co., 1953. Price, $3.50.This collection of seventeen stories, selected by the author from the 40 he has written sin...

This was the first full season of operations at ALE’s new camp on the south side of the Union Glacier. Situated in the southern Heritage Range, itself the southern section of the Ellsworth Mountains, the camp is much closer to a multitude of climb...

FALLING ROCKCalifornia, King’s Canyon, The HermitA group of four experienced climbers (Doug Mantle, Randy Danta, Tina Stough, Joe Stephens) were completing an extended peak climbing trip on The Hermit (3759 meters) in the Evolution area. On August...

Mount McKinley’s Pioneer RidgeSev Heiberg, Alpine Club of CanadaOne of the few easily accessible routes on Mount McKinley that remained unclimbed, Pioneer Ridge, leads up to the north peak from the northeast and separates the Muldrow Glacier from ...

FALL ON ROCK, LOWERING FAILURE–NO BELAY OR BACKUPNorth Carolina, Little Pinnacle, Pilot Mountain State ParkOn May 23, a group of 35 Boy Scouts of America leaders were participating in high-angle rescue training at Pilot Mountain State Park.Their a...

Mount Temple's North FaceBrian GreenwoodWHEN I tried to climb Temple a couple of weeks after first arriving in Canada, I bogged down on the apparently unending scree of the ordinary route from Sentinel Pass. A few years later I finally climbed Tem...

Mount Everest, North-Northeast Ridge Attempt. After six months of hectic planning, our 18-person team flew to China with permission for the north- northeast ridge of Everest. We were a mixed bunch of English and Scots with a Swiss and an Austrian:...

In February Krzysztof Wielicki, Jacek Fluder, Wlodzimierz Szczesny, and I, after traveling for 80 hours from Poland, set up base camp in the remote glacier valley of the Cordillera Darwin, Tierra del Fuego. It was a beautiful place, by the shore o...

Harvard Mountaineering Club. In keeping with a general rise in interest in mountaineering, 1955 was the most active year in club history. Undergraduate, graduate, and alumni members were active in major expeditions to all parts of the world.The mo...

Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-70U.S.A.1959-70CAN.1971U.S.A.CAN.TerrainRock 912626812Snow 481634117River 4000Unknown1200Ascent or DescentAscent 677735921Descent 63248478Unknown 89630Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock49535417Failu...

The Traverse of the Grandes JorassesGeraldine I. Fitz-GeraldTHE climbers of this trip comprised myself, with the guides Alfred Couttet and Anatole Bozon, of Chamonix. We left the cosy Cabane de Leschaux at 3.10 A.M. on August 31st, 1930. The night...

P 5886. On April 29, Canadian Barry Blanchard and I ascended the unclimbed west face of P 5886 (19,312 feet), which lies on the southwest ridge of Nuptse, northeast of Kongma Tse. We placed Base Camp at 4940 meters just west of the Kongma La and C...

Yerupajá—The Amazon FaceChristopher A. G. JonesSOMETIMES I am asleep when reading, other times my mind is in neutral. I had read the article before, but only now did it register. "The fantastic northeast face, perhaps the finest challenge in all P...