AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION – KNOWN AVALANCHE HAZARDWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount TeewinotOn May 23 at 1300, Jackson climber Phillip Jones arrived at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station to report that his climbing partner, Irene McManus, had be...
Higher than the Eagle Soars: A Path to Everest. Stephen Venables. London: Hutchinson, 2007. 370 pages. Hardcover. $49.95.Don’t be scared by the clunky title—Higher than the Eagle Soars manages to be both thrilling and introspective. It is a rare c...
SLIP ON SNOW, SKIING, INEXPERIENCEOregon, Mount HoodOn Saturday, April 24, 1982, after a group spent nine hours climbing and preparing to ski from the summit of Mount Hood, it took only a minute of skiing for most of the party to be placed in life...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. The Club’s official outings were limited to local practice climbs at nearby areas. Two week-end winter trips were held at Starved Rock State Park, near Ottawa, Illinois, where conditions were ideal for the formation of...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, SKIING UNROPEDAlaska, Mount McKinleyPeter Nadler (36), an experienced professional guide, was the leader of a seventeen member Swiss expedition on the West Buttress Route of Mount McKinley. On June 2, 1984, the group was flown ...
FALL ON ROCK–INAPPROPRIATE DESCENT TECHNIQUE, OFF ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Tenaya CanyonOn the morning of June 20, I, Graham (18), set out from Tenaya Lake for a solo cross-country day hike to Yosemite Valley v...
HAPE, ASCENDED TOO FAST, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONSAlaska, Mount McKinley, Cassin RidgeOn the evening of June 14 the “Princes of the Puff of Smoke” expedition arrived at base camp to start their ascent of the Cassin Ridge. When the team arrive...
Shivling West, Southeast Ridge. Jim Fotheringham and I arrived at Tapovan at 14,050 feet on September 4. The next week was spent establishing Advance Base at the foot of the east face of Kedarnath Dome and making forays to find the best route up t...
LEONARD A. KALAL1919-1996The embodiment of the spirit, the joy, all that is wonderful in mountaineering—that is the persona of Leonard Kalal, remembered by his many friends in the mountaineering community at the University of Colorado in Boulder.H...
Hatun Ulloc, Karma de Los Condores. On August 29 Wayne Crill and I completed a new route on the previously unclimbed 350m south face of Hatun Ulloc in the Quebrada Ishinca. Four large, impressive rock buttresses rise ominously from the forested sl...
Mount Hayes, North Ridge. On the second ascent of Mount Hayes’ north ridge miraculously everything went incredibly well. The weather was excellent, logistics worked out as planned, the route was difficult, but we did get to the summit. Joanne Grov...
The Juneau Icefield Research Program—1960. The Juneau Icefield Research Program continued its annual investigations in the Northern Boundary Range of Alaska during the months of July and August, 1960. Under the aegis of the Foundation for Glacier ...
The Cascade Range of Northern WashingtonHermann F. UlrichsTHE general conception of the Cascade Range is that of a series of broken-down, snow-covered volcanic cones fairly distantly spaced and surrounded and linked together by a simple chain of u...
Cuatro Dedos, Fingerlicious; Dotno Blanco, La Suerte Sangrienta. Chris Brazeau and I arrived in Patagonia on January 11,2007, and teamed with Crystal Davis-Robbins. Within a week we had climbed two new routes, on Aguja Cuatro Dedos and Domo Blanco...
Mountaineering Club of Alaska. Our membership was approximately 260 in 1981. Activities included a monthly slide show of climbs and mountain travels in Alaska and around the world. The club also conducted classes in mountaineering and ice climbing...
Mount Vancouver, Northeast Ridge. The 1975 M.I.T. Outing Club Expedition assembled in mid-June at Haines Junction. We consisted of Cliff Cantor*, Bob Dangel, Paul Ledoux, Rob Milne*, Hal Murray, Bob Walker, John Yates and me as leader. We converse...
At the beginning of February 2009 Markus Stofer and I went to Naeroydalen in southwest Norway. On a visit in 1999 I had noticed big icefalls forming in the fjords close to Gudvangen (Aurland). These are probably some of the highest in the world, f...
The McCall Glacier Station, Brooks Range, AlaskaRobert W. MasonIntroduction . . .One of the many contributions of mountaineers to the scientific study of the conditions in which human beings live is the high altitude scientific station or observat...
Sinai, Jebel Safsafa (Willow Mountain), Holey Moses. Sinai, the land of the Bedouin, conjures a rich and evocative image of lyrical, shifting sands, flowing robes, and the long, loping strides of camels. It also offers many opportunities to open n...
Yale Mountaineering Club. The past year has been spent in providing instruction for new members in the various phases of rock climbing and snow and ice technique, and in enlarging and strengthening the Club’s safety program. A new system has been ...