Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Alaska Range, Little Switzerland, Various First Ascents

Little Switzerland, Various First Ascents. From June 20-July 10, Bill Gamble, Mark Davis, Chris Giles, and I established three new routes in the Little Switzerland area. Eat the Queen (V 5.9 A2+) on the Throne ascends a line through the prominent ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Inadequate Equipment — Hiking Boots — and No Hard Hat, West Virginia, River Rocks

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT— HIKING BOOTS—AND NO HARD HATWest Virginia, River RocksOn April 20, Mark Williamson (25) had finished a day of climbing and had already changed from his climbing shoes to his hiking boots. He re...


Feature Article AAJ
Sir George Everest's 200th Birthday

Sir George Everest’s 200th BirthdayAudrey Salkeld, The Alpine ClubSIR GEORGE EVEREST was bom two hundred years ago. It is well known that in 1849 reports reached Everest’s successor as Superintendent of the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India, A...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Habuqung Shan, Dobzebo, First Ascent, Via Southwest Ridge

Dobzebo, first ascent, via southwest ridge. When our team of four, comprising Alpine Club members Derek Buckle, Alasdair Scott, Martin Scott, and Bill Thurston, were searching for new climbing opportunities, we looked no farther than Tibet. Requir...


Feature Article AAJ
Climbing and Exploration in the Northern Purcells

Climbing and Exploration in the Northern PurcellsROBERT C. WEST, JR. and PETER ROBINSON Spillimacheen and Carbonate RangesIn the summer of 1952, looking southeast into the Purcells from Mt. Sir Donald in the Selkirks, we noticed some attractive-lo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow—Unable to Self-Arrest, Climbing Alone and Unroped, Inadequate Equipment, California, Mount Shasta, Sargents Ridge

FALL ON SNOW-UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Sargents RidgeThe Mount Shasta area had a late winter start with very dry conditions on the mountain. The ridge routes, which are popula...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, San Juan Mountains, Peak 13,134', Ski Line

Peak 13,134', Ski Line. In late October I recruited Dave Ahrens to help me finish a project I started years ago, the north face of Peak 13,134' in the northern San Juans. The face can be clearly seen from Dallas Divide, and I had made several atte...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Ladakh-Kashmir, Ski Traverse of Northern India from Srinagar to Manali

Ski Traverse of Northern India from Srinagar to Manali. From February 27 to March 30 Norwegians Odd Eliassen and Erik Boehlke and I made a 600-km journey on skis from Srinagar in Kashmir through Ladakh, Zanskar and Lahoul to Manali. Our commitment...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huarochirí, Various First Ascents

Cordillera Huarochirí, Various First Ascents. This range, known locally as the Cordillera Pariacacca, is located south of the mining town of La Oroya. Names for the range, such as Cordillera Central and Nevados de Cochas, that have been applied by...


Club Activities AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers

Iowa Mountaineers. Another active year, 1994 saw 4056 individuals participating in the club’s instructional courses and climbing outings. Many of the instructional courses were offered for University of Iowa academic credit. Membership of approxim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Coast Mountains, Remote Areas Summary

Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. The year 2002 was one of remarkable activity in the Coast Mountains, both in southwest British Columbia near Vancouver and in remoter areas. Most new-route activity in the “greater” Coast Mountains, as always...


Feature Article AAJ
Foraker's Southwest Ridge

THE massive southwest ridge of Foraker is a labyrinthine collection of ribs and buttresses which, with meandering nonchalance, rises out of several different glaciers headed in several different directions. The point of confluence for these subo...

| Keywords
| Published 1977 | Author Erik LeRoy


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mt. Proboscis, Southeast Face, Original Route (and Variation), Free Ascent North America, Canada, Logan Mountains

In late July, with help from American Alpine Club grants, Emily Stifler, Lorna Illingworth, and I helicoptered to the base of Mt. Proboscis in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, Northwest Territories. We spent 25 days in the area and flew o...

| Published 2010 | Author Madaleine Sorkin, AAC


Book Reviews AAJ
Climber's Guide to the Teton Range

Climber’s Guide to the Teton Range. Leigh N. Ortenburger and Reynold G. Jackson. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1995. 414 pages, $39.00.There are guidebooks and then there are guidebooks. Some are samplers, leading you into a region and describing a f...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Clark Range, Yosemite National Park

(21) California, Clark Range, Yosemite National Park. On 8 August Tom Opperman (21) left Tuolumne Meadows area, planning to hike to Merced Lake, then to climb Mt. Clark, traverse the east sides of Grey and Red Peaks, hike to Glacier Point, and ret...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Cape Farewell Region, Kangikitsoq Fjord, Tupilak Tower, Sandro e Vito; Lorenzo Peak, First Ascent, Freedom Pillar Route

Kangikitsoq Fjord, Tupilak Tower, Sandro e Vito; Lorenzo Peak, first ascent, Freedom Pillar route. “In the footsteps of Vikings” (Mark Richey, AAJ 2001) was the inspiration for our 2004 to trip in Greenland. In the first week of bad weather Sergio...


Feature Article AAJ
Northern Cordillera Blanca

Northern Cordillera BlancaWilliam Katra, UnaffiliatedTHE three of us were in agreement. We had one of the most unorganized—but not disorganized—expeditions ever to attempt big things in the Andes. Frankly, we liked it that way, with a minimum of h...


Feature Article AAJ
The Ascent of Mt. Steele

The Ascent of Mt. SteeleWalter A. Wood, Jr.ABOUT 40 miles north of Mt. Logan, in Yukon Territory, lies a group of peaks which, while more publicized neighbors have been visited, climbed and studied, has remained comparatively neglected. Due to the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock/Snow, Climbing Unroped, Inexperience — Wyoming, Wind Rivers

FALL ON ROCK/SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Wind RiversThe following report was sent in by Mark Dale, who was also involved in searching for the victim in the previous report. Dale and his climbing partner, Jeff Hunt, cut their plann...


Notes AAJ
Correspondence

M.P.O. 1314, Edmonton, Alta., Dec. 9, 1943. Dear Dr. Thorington:I’ve just written to H. E. G. Tyndale, Editor of A. J., suggesting that as soon after the war as possible there should be a joint Anglo-American Expedition to Mt. Everest. This should...