Fitz Roy. An English expedition has climbed Fitz Roy by a new route, which ascended from the saddle between the French and American routes. After preparing the route in November, they lost 16 days to storm before climbing to the top on December 11...
Indian Mountain Division. Reports from Berne announce that two well-known Swiss officers will act as instructors for the Mountain Division of the Indian Army in Kashmir; also that the Deputy Chief of Staff of the Swiss Army has been invited to Ind...
Annapurna Dakshin Southwest Face Solo. Italian Luca Tessarin climbed solo the 2000-meter-high southwest face of Annapurna Dakshin by a new route which was mostly 50° to 55° ice with two short vertical sections and 100 meters of UIAA Grade III to I...
P 5600 and P 5100, Rizhun Gol, Hindu Raj. The Munich Chitral Expedition consisted of Walter and Barbel Pschorr, Wolfgang Dorn and Karl Landvogt. They were in the Ishporili Gol and the Rizhun Gol, a side valley of the Laspur valley. They climbed on...
Badham and P 3700. On June 13, Christopher Hammel, Mark Makela and I were flown to 2800 meters on the upper Donjek Glacier between Mounts Badham and Donjek. After an acclimatization ski around Donjek and a two-day storm, we made a quick trip up th...
Achtung Gams, by Walter Majer-Maschée. A picture-book for hunters and mountaineers. Small 4to., pp. 91, with 84 illustrations from photos by the author. Berlin: J. Neumann, 1939.Whatever evil befell humanity from the Austrian Anschluss, it was at ...
Colorado, Mt. Wilson—On July 3, 1955, Herbert Martin, unroped, was leading a climbing group on Mt. Wilson. At the time of the accident he was out of sight of the others, so it is not known whether he slipped or was struck by a rock. He fell about ...
Colorado, Eldorado Canyon—On October 17, Darryl Christensen (19), Raymond Jacquot (20), Keith Hull (21), and George Cardon (22), attempted a climb known as Red Guard Wall in Eldorado Canyon, 10 miles southwest of Boulder, Colorado. They crossed th...
RAPPEL ERROR—ROPE ENDS UNEVEN, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATArizona, Oak FlatsOn April 6, following a bouldering contest in the area, Paul (25) and his climbing partner (24) went for a climb about a half mile from the primary bouldering area, where th...
Srikanta, North Ridge. It was reported that in September, 1997, an all-woman’s team from Uttarkashi climbed Srikanta (6133m), the western-most peak in the Gangotri, via the north ridge. Nari Dhami, Suman Kutiyal, Lata Joshi and Radha Rana summited...
On September 28, 2008, at 4:35 p.m., Dylan Johnson and I summited Siguniang Shan. The journey had thrown many obstacles in our path, from lightning storms to knife-edged ridges, days without food and water, and sleepless nights. We climb...
Sarapo, West Face, 1980. Despite bad weather and poor snow conditions, Yves Astier, J.M. Boucansaud, Norbert Silvin and Baptiste Ouchick climbed the west face of Sarapo (6143 meters, 20,155 feet) by a 70° snow couloir on May 25 and 26, 1980. The c...
ILLNESSBritish Columbia, Glacier National Park, Mount UtoOn August 28, five climbers were on their way up the Southwest Ridge of Mount Uto, a 5.1 rock climb. One of the climbers, S.L. (F 45), developed sudden acute and severe right lower abdominal...
The Maximum Miracle CentreIn Kenya’s Ndoto Mountains, it’s not the climbing you’ll be telling stories about, it’s the bush.Ben Winston"It's like a mini Yosemite,” John Barry had said. “There are loads of walls dotted around, probably between 500 ...
The Obelisk, Dihedral Route. On the steep north face, right of the “Hands of Fate” route (A.A.J., 1977) is a prominent vertical left-facing comer system that starts about one-half pitch above the ground and leads to the summit. Rick Smith, Eve Lae...
Clifton H.W. Maloney 1938–2009Clifton H.W. Maloney, 71, an investment banker and a long-time member of the New York Section, perished at a high camp on Cho Oyu on September 25 after reaching the summit the day before. He thus became the oldest Ame...
Annapurna I, South Face, Attempt and Ascent. On the fifth anniversary of Ukrainian independence, the Ukrainian Federation of Alpinism organized the First National Expedition to the Himalayan peak Annapurna I (8091 m). The People’s Deputy of Ukrain...
The Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna— the World’s Deadliest Peak. Ed Viesturs and David Roberts. Crown: 2011. 304 pages. Hardcover. $26.00.The Will to Climb sat in my book pile for a long time. The title tur...
New Colorado Ice Climbs, 1973-1975Michael Kennedy, Elk Mountain Climbing ClubTHERE was little interest in winter ice climbing in Colorado as an end in itself until fairly recently. Improvements in technique and equipment, and a general keenness to...
Trisul from the West. Ferdl Schneider and I started out from Ghat with three porters and our liaison officer and ascended the Nandakini valley for four-and-a-half days through endless forests. At Base Camp I became ill with pulmonary edema and we ...