Other First Ascents, Canadian Rockies. The first ascent of the northeast ridge and face of Mount Colin, in Jasper Park, was made on July 20 by Don Linke, Pat Payne, and Eric Hopkins. A minor peak of Mount Termier, west of the main summit, about 90...
Tocllaraju and Ranrapalca. Carlos Buhler, Sharon Wood and I set up camp in the Quebrada Ishinca in early June. We made several acclimatization climbs, including Urus Oeste and Ishinca. We stayed away from the normal ridge climbs on other peaks in ...
Various ascents and ski descents. The name, bestowed in 1778 by the range’s discoverer, Captain James Cook, is itself a curiosity. The Fairweather Range experiences some of the world’s worst weather, including over 100 annual inches of precipitati...
FALLING ROCKUtah, Arches National ParkOn March 7, a large rockfall occurred during a technical rock rescue training session being conducted in the Park. Seventeen people were attending the training. The rock, estimated to be between 30 and 40 feet...
Tres Marias group and Chachacomani, Various Ascents. Britons Phil Amos and Adam Thomas spent three weeks in this area of the central Cordillera Real. The Tres Marias is a triple-peaked ridge east of the distinctive Chachacomani (6074m), a.k.a. “Ch...
Cerro Torre, First Female Ascent. Italians Maurizio Giordani and Rosanna Manfrini arrived in the early southern spring below Cerro Torre. Only ten days after their arrival the two completed the Maestri route on the peak, reaching the summit on Oct...
Everest Attempt. The French Military Expedition to Qomolangma (Mount Everest) was composed of 28 Frenchmen: General of Division Pierre Astorg, leader; two adjutants in charge of logistics, two physicians, cook, interpreter, journalist, radio-opera...
Poincenot, North Face, New Route. Dean Potter and I went to Patagonia in early January, 2001. Last season we’d had a summit frenzy in a brief weather spell, climbing fast routes to reach the summits of Saint Exupery and Innominata, both from the w...
Mount Brooks, South Summit, East Ridge. Scott Gill and I climbed the east ridge of Mount Brooks to the south summit on June 29. This is a new route. The climb consisted of endless hours of post-holing in soft, unconsolidated snow. The final 75 met...
California, Tahquitz Rock. On 17 August, D. H. Gilbert (33) and his wife were ascending a relatively easy 5-pitch climb that he had led at least six times before. He was about three moves into a moderate lieback, having placed a one-inch nylon sli...
From July 12 to August 10 Wojciech Kurz, Pawel Wycislik, and I attempted a route on each of three big walls: Ketil, Nalumatorsoq, and Ulamertorssuaq. From a base camp beneath the west face of Ketil, we attempted the second overall and first free a...
CORNICE COLLAPSE, DESCENDING UNROPED Yukon Territory, Saint Elias Range, Mount LoganOn April 29,1986, a party of six was descending from 5200 meters on the East Ridge of Mount Logan. They had spent 18 days on the mountain and had climbed the peak....
Square Top Mountain 1990. Doug Colwell and I climbed an excellent new 17-pitch route (V, 5. 10d) on the east face of Square Top Mountain in September, 1990. We began by scrambling up a series of obvious ramps to an intersection with the main crack...
Les Batailles pour L’Himalaya, by Claire-Eliane Engel. 8 vo. ; vii + 157 pages, with 16 full-page illustrations, 3 outline maps, 2 diagrams and bibliography. Paris : Flammarion, 1936.This is an historical rather than a geographical approach to the...
Fairweather Attempt. Scots Dean James and Steve Deykin tried in May to climb the Carpé route, but could not complete the ascent.Rick Mossman, Yakutat District Ranger, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
Everest, Ascents in the Post-Monsoon. In addition to the summits by Kaji Sherpa and Tashi Tshering Sherpa (see above), Norichika Matsumoto led one of the few other teams who attempted Everest this season; his team failed to gain the summit via a r...
CB 46, CB 47 and CB 49. Toru Takahashi, Isao Ogane and I established Base Camp in the Kulti valley at 3600 meters on July 23. We then set up Camps I and II at 4250 and 5000 meters. On August 7 all three climbed CB 49 (Tila Ka Lahr; 5964 meters, 19...
Ama Dablam Attempt. Our commercial group consisted of Americans Dwain Stranahan and Craig Selsman and Britons Alan Lees and me. Since the Nepalese give more than one permit for the same route at the same time and since there is not much room for t...
Everest Correction. On page 227 of AAJ1991, the names of Ang Phurba and Nima Dorje were unfortunately omitted from those of Jean-Noel Roche’s party who reached the top.
Harvard Mountaineering Club. This past summer, the Club put three parties, 11 members of the Club, into the Alaska Range.Thayer Scudder organized and led the Harvard Brooks-Mather Expedition, making the first ascents of Mt. Brooks 11,900 feet, Mt....