Cerro Torre. Carlos Buhler and I set up Base Camp in the forest below Cerro Torre at the beginning of December. The weather in October and early November had been phenomenal and already over 20 persons had summited in 1987. With only a month in Pa...
Crown Jewell, Throne and “Plunger”, Little Switzerland. In August, Rob Heineman and I spent four days on the Pika Glacier between bouts of heavy rain. On August 4 we warmed up with a climb of the south face of the Throne. The following day, Heinem...
California, Yosemite National Park. The body of David Roach (30), a park ranger who had been missing since last Friday (in August), was found at the bottom of the Cleaver, a knife-edged ridge in the eastern portion of the park. Roach had apparentl...
Fairweather, Carpé Ridge. On June 11, Mike Daniel and I reached the summit of Fairweather (4669 meters, 15,320 feet) via the Carpé Ridge, by which the first ascent was made in 1931 by Alan Carpé and Terris Moore. Although they described the route ...
Peaks in Himachal Pradesh. Snow Cone (6335 meters, 20,456 feet) was ascended by a six-member team from Calcutta. They set up Base Camp at 5000 meters on the Bara Shigri Glacier on August 22. Camp II was set up between P 20,078 and Snow Dome. On Au...
Ama Dablam Attempt. Our expedition was made up of Masashi Tatsuta, Mrs. Joshimi Tatsuta, Seisuke Kurokawa, Miss Harumi Ichimura, Miss Kyoko Horikawa and I as leader. After climbing Imjatse, we attempted the north ridge of Ama Dablam. Mr. and Mrs. ...
Nuptse, Southwest Ridge Attempt. Swede Magnus Lekman and three Sherpas tried a new approach to an unclimbed ridge on Nuptse, a southwest ridge to a south rib. They gave up on October 24 after only a week when they found strong winds and route diff...
Nanda Ghunti East. The Shinshu University Alpine Club Expedition was led by Kyoji Sugimoto. The other two members, Ichikawa and Furuzuka, climbed the East Peak (20,013 feet) on October 6.Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club
Connecticut, Sleeping Giant State Park—Mt. Carmel—On October 14, 1956 Robert W. French (22) was climbing on the Chin of The Sleeping Giant. He was considered by both the Yale Mountaineering Club and the Dartmouth Outing Club to be a strong, capabl...
Khan Tengri and Pik Pobedy. Our expedition was composed of Roger Payne, Iain Peter and Allen Fyffe from the UK and me from New Zealand. Our trip was arranged through the International Mountaineering Camp Khan Tengri based in Alma Ata. We were flow...
Pioneer Peak. Two new routes were made to this summit on August 3. The more elegant was done by George Bell and David Michael. An abrupt buttress rises to a point just east of the summit from the Stickle branch of the Granite Glacier. From Fairy M...
Vesper Peak, North Face. Two new routes on this face were climbed during 1970. Beginning high on the glacier, Mark Weigelt, Julie Brugger, John Bonneville, and Earl Hamilton went up a broken gully to a ledge belay. Four pitches were climbed to the...
Peaks near Ausangate, Cordillera Vilcanota. On June 30 Herman Plugge, Margreet Hogeweg, Pauline Willinge, Bert Vonk and I left the Hacienda Tinqui for the mountains and on July 2 Hogeweg and I climbed Campa I (17,996 feet) on the way to Base Camp ...
Dhaulagiri II, Postmonsoon Attempt. A second Japanese expedition, this one from Kyoto and led by Yasuo Onishi, attempted the same route climbed by the Nagoya expedition but failed. The highest point reached on a summit attempt was some 800 feet fr...
Mt. Vinson Area, Various Ascents. On January 3, Viki Groselj, Stane Klemenc, Rafko Vodisek (Slovenia) and Stipe Bozic, Josko Bojic (Croatia) arrived in the Patriot Hills Base Camp. On the same day, we took a one-hour flight to Base Camp at the foo...
Annapurna III Tragedy. Our Australian team was Colin Monteath, climbing leader, Jack Higgs, Steve Colman, Nick Reeves, Adrian Blake, John Chester, Steve McDowell, Geof Bartram, Stafford Morse, Faye Kerr, Dr. Brian Fearnley, Dr. Ken Bowes, Ray John...
Cuerno Norte, West Face, Nacimientos. On February 13, Andre Labarca, Claudio Retamal and Luis Ortiz (Chile) finished a new route on the west face of Cuerno Norte. Nacimientos (V 5.10 Al, 15 pitches) was climbed in 18 hours from Advanced Base Camp....
Mount Conness, North Ridge. The north ridge of Mount Conness (12,590 feet) is a mile long cleaver dropping vertically on the east to the Conness Glacier and falling away at 70° for thousands of feet on the west. Barry Hagen and I apparently comple...
Dhaulagiri. A five-man Japanese expedition led by Ken Kanazawa climbed Dhaulagiri by the standard northeast ridge. On October 17 Toichiro Mitani and Jun’ichi Tanaka got to the summit. They had three camps above Base Camp.Michael J. Cheney, Himalay...
Exotic Rock. Sam Lightner, Jr. Self-published. P.O. Box 591, Teton Village, WY, 83025. Color and black-and-white photos. 138 pages. $24.95.Comment: Though Lightner’s coverage of each area seems scanty, half the world is included: Hong Kong, Malays...