In 2003 Steffan Laetsch, Frank Polte, and Jens and Michael Richter from Germany attempted a new route on the south face of Apostelens Tommelfinger. After climbing 1,600m up to UIAA VIII- A2 45°, they were forced to give up at a point estimated to ...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCE British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Yoho National ParkOn December 28,1986, a climber was attempting to lead the first steep pitch on Massey Waterfall. He put in one ice screw part way up the pitch, a...
Chimney Rock, Selkirk Crest. On August 19, Ann Robertson and I made the first ascent of a new three-pitch route on the north side of Chimney Rock. The first lead was a superb 5.10c crack system that split the middle of an obvious prow just a few f...
“Ces Monts sublimes.” Les Ecrivains a la Montagne, by Claire- Eliane Engel and Charles Vallot. 8 vo. ; 304 pages, with bibliography, index and 8 illustrations by Samivel. Paris : Librairie Delagrave (15 Rue Soufflot), 1936.This volume is the secon...
Fairweather. Patrick Flanagan, Dan Stevenson and I started from the beach near Sea Otter Creek on May 1. We were heading for the west ridge of Fairweather from the Grand Plateau Glacier. We ferried two loads each to the snow in three days and bega...
Everest, South Col/Southeast Ridge, Speed Ascent. Speed ascents of Mount Everest have rarely been attempted. Now a well-known 35-year-old Sherpa named Kaji says he raced from Base Camp on the Nepalese side at 5350 meters to the South Col to the to...
Shigri Parbat Ascent and Tragedy. An 18-man expedition from the Indian Army Corps of Engineers was led by Major M.P. Yadev. They made the second ascent of Shigri Parbat (6526 meters, 21,410 feet). The only previous ascent was by a British team on ...
Kwangde Central Northeast Face. Alan Kearney’s full article on this ascent appears earlier in this volume.
Everest Photograph Corrections. The captions on the photographs appearing on pages 53 and 55 of AAJ1991 were not correct. Plate 14 was taken by Mike Browning. In the photo are Ang Jambu, Nima Tashi, Dana Coffield and Brent Manning. Plate 15 was ta...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. With a large group of enthusiastic freshmen, climbing activities have picked up considerably at Dartmouth. As usual a majority of new members are gleaned from the ranks of the thrice weekly climbing classes for which...
Kangchenjunga Challenge, by Paul Bauer. 202 pages and 12 illustrations. Foreword by Sir John Hunt. London: Kimber, 1955. Price, 18 s.Paul Bauer, one of the famous climbers of this century, here recounts the story of the Bavarian attempts to climb ...
A SURPRISING QUOTATION"There is an indefinite expectation of seeing something very strange, which however often it may be balked, never fails with me to recur on each successive attempt. Every one must know the feeling of triumph and pride which a...
Igikpak, Northeast Face and Upper East Ridge, Brooks Range. September 2 found me at 1:30 at 5200 feet below the glacial headwall of Igikpak’s east face with 85 feet of 7-mm rope, 4 carabiners, 2 nuts, 6 slings a geology hammer and a pocketful of c...
How the English Made the Alps. Jim Ring. London: John Murray, 2000. 16 pages of black- and-white photos. 298 pages. £19.99.
Trisul. A number of expeditions have climbed Trisul since the relaxation of the Inner Line restrictions. On May 17 Germans Martin Biock and Lothar Büttner reached the summit and skied back down. On May 20 they were followed by three climbers from ...
Austrian Expedition to the Cordillera Blanca. Under the leadership of Hannes Gasser, the Austrians entered the southern end of the Cordillera Blanca. Albert Zangerl came down with pneumonia and had to be evacuated to Lima. From a 16,750-foot camp,...
New Hampshire, Mt. Kearsarge—On May 13, 1956 James Moore (20) slipped on ice about a quarter of a mile from the summit of Mt. Kearsarge. He suffered a dislocated right shoulder. He was accompanied by three companions.Source: Newspaper clipping and...
Xuebao Ding, Sichuan. The first ascent of Xuebao Ding (5588 meters, 18,334 feet) was made by an expedition of the Himalayan Association of Japan led by Kunimitsu Sakai. After reaching Base Camp on August 5, they climbed the south ridge. On August ...
Mount Hunter, Southeast Spur of South Face. Our expedition was composed of Lincoln Stoller, William Nicholson,* David M. Sweet and me.* We succeeded in climbing about one-third of the ridge before acknowledging defeat. The decision to withdraw was...
Schoolboys in the Chinese Pamir. Our expedition from Aldenham School approached the Karakol Lakes in China via the Karakoram Highway from Rawalpindi in Pakistan. Although the hiring agreement was for 12 days, the camels deserted us at Atkash, abou...