Chogolisa Attempt. José Bermúdez, Jerry Lovatt, Grant Dixon, Robert Parker and I hoped to climb Chogolisa (7668 meters, 25,158 feet). Parker had to leave on August 1 because of illness. We wanted to make the second ascent of the 1986 British route...
Monte Sarmiento, West Peak. The twin peaks of Monte Sarmiento had been climbed only once before. Italian expeditions made both ascents, the first in 1956 (East Peak) and again in 1986 (West Peak). With the objective of new routes on both peaks, ou...
Snow Creek Wall, Outer Space. This winter ascent was completed on January 1 by Ron Burgner, Mark Weigelt, and me. We encountered 12 inches of snow plastered on ice over the whole 800-foot wall. Approximately two-fifths was fifth class climbing and...
Kingnait Fiord, Cumberland Peninsula, Baffin Island. On July 21 Daniel Cauthorn, Michael Friedman, Ben Dobbins and I1 left Pangnirtung in a 24-foot freighter canoe bound for the head of Kingnait Fiord, some 80 miles distant. We spent 35 days in th...
Cordillera Real and Sajama. The expedition I led was dispatched by the Alpine Club of the Tokyo University of Foreign Studies. The rest of the party consisted of two graduates, Kunio Suzuki and Masaki Aoki, two students, Takaya Takeshita and Tadas...
Condorsenga. Bruce Campbell-Watt, my wife Madeline and I spent six days camped near Mina Raura. Campbell-Watt and I climbed Yanku (16,897 feet) by the east ridge, Condorsenga (17,618 feet) via the east face after gaining the plateau between Condor...
The Brother and the Sisters, North Faces, Niut Range. After nearly a month of waiting for the usual “Indian Summer”, Fred Beckey, Bill Lahr, and I at last got our proposed traverse of the Niut Range underway. At ten A.M. on September 15, after bei...
Mt. Huntington, East Face. Paul Roderick of TAT dropped off Alex Lowe and me on the WestFork of the Ruth Glacier under perfect skies. A high pressure had settled into the Alaska Range, and we were psyched to take full advantage of it. We unloaded ...
Where Four Worlds Meet, by Fosco Maraini. Translated by Peter Green. New York: Harcourt, Brace and World, Inc. 290 pages, 169 photos (28 color plates). Price: $12.50.In 1959, an Italian expedition made the first ascent of 24,170-foot Mount Saraghr...
Aoraki Mount Cook and Westland summary. There were a number of standout climbs at Aoraki Mt. Cook during the last year, with Allan Uren and Craig Jefferies’ ascent of the northeast face of Torres Peak (3,160m) being the most significant. Climbed i...
Picket Range, a South to North Traverse. In late summer Half Zantop and I approached this magnificent area from the south via Goodell Creek and the ridge east of Terror Creek, and then from Terror Basin went high over the south ridge of Degenhardt...
California, Joshua Tree Monument (I)—At approximately 3:30 p.m. on June 5, Sgt. Joseph Jones (22) slipped on water-slickened rock while hiking in Rattlesnake Canyon with his wife. He fell free for about 25 feet, landing in the base of a dry waterf...
Colorado College Mountain Club. The activities of the club, which is located at Colorado Springs, began 1962 with a January trip to the sandstone pinnacles of Monument Valley, Arizona. Seven members made the first ascent of the Caterpillar formati...
Salcantay, Cordillera Vilcabamba, and Huascarán Norte, Cordillera Blanca. The objectives of the Jubilee Expedition of the Sektion Bayerland of the German Alpine Club (DAY) were changed by the earthquake of May 31, which prevented our climbing on P...
The Desert, various activity. In 2003 Paul Ross and partners added 23 multipitch routes in the southwest desert, 18 of which were on the Eastern Reef Slabs of the San Rafael Swell. [Note: Only the longer routes are presented here, and route length...
Dhaulagiri II, East Ridge from the South. A 10-man Japanese expedition from Nagoya was led by Yoshio Ogawa. Following the route attempted by other Japanese in 1975, they successfully made the second ascent of the mountain (25,430 feet) by this new...
Antarctica, Various Ascents. The Norwegian pair of Patrick and Vika Gustaffson spent 17 days exploring the northern part of the Ellsworth mountains. They climbed four virgin peaks; they also climbed Mount Gardner via the original route, running ou...
Foraker East Face. To acclimatize, Jaroslav Jaško and I climbed Mount Crosson. From there, we planned our route, which was to the right of the Pink Panther route on the east face of Foraker. For the climb we took five days of food, a Salewa Sierra...
Balloon Dome, Into the Pit and Netherworld; “Cat Wall,” Heaven and Hell. For the longest time I’ve wanted to do a route on this dome, which lies a few miles upcanyon from the Fuller Buttes. It sits in the San Joaquin River’s canyon, dead center of...
Annapurna II Attempt. A Polish expedition led by Jerzy Michalski unsuccessfully attempted a new route, the west ridge from the south, on Annapurna II. They were delayed by the late arrival of their equipment in Nepal. They established four high ca...