From July 12 to August 10 Wojciech Kurz, Pawel Wycislik, and I attempted a route on each of three big walls: Ketil, Nalumatorsoq, and Ulamertorssuaq. From a base camp beneath the west face of Ketil, we attempted the second overall and first free a...
CORNICE COLLAPSE, DESCENDING UNROPED Yukon Territory, Saint Elias Range, Mount LoganOn April 29,1986, a party of six was descending from 5200 meters on the East Ridge of Mount Logan. They had spent 18 days on the mountain and had climbed the peak....
Square Top Mountain 1990. Doug Colwell and I climbed an excellent new 17-pitch route (V, 5. 10d) on the east face of Square Top Mountain in September, 1990. We began by scrambling up a series of obvious ramps to an intersection with the main crack...
Les Batailles pour L’Himalaya, by Claire-Eliane Engel. 8 vo. ; vii + 157 pages, with 16 full-page illustrations, 3 outline maps, 2 diagrams and bibliography. Paris : Flammarion, 1936.This is an historical rather than a geographical approach to the...
Fairweather Attempt. Scots Dean James and Steve Deykin tried in May to climb the Carpé route, but could not complete the ascent.Rick Mossman, Yakutat District Ranger, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
Everest, Ascents in the Post-Monsoon. In addition to the summits by Kaji Sherpa and Tashi Tshering Sherpa (see above), Norichika Matsumoto led one of the few other teams who attempted Everest this season; his team failed to gain the summit via a r...
CB 46, CB 47 and CB 49. Toru Takahashi, Isao Ogane and I established Base Camp in the Kulti valley at 3600 meters on July 23. We then set up Camps I and II at 4250 and 5000 meters. On August 7 all three climbed CB 49 (Tila Ka Lahr; 5964 meters, 19...
Ama Dablam Attempt. Our commercial group consisted of Americans Dwain Stranahan and Craig Selsman and Britons Alan Lees and me. Since the Nepalese give more than one permit for the same route at the same time and since there is not much room for t...
Everest Correction. On page 227 of AAJ1991, the names of Ang Phurba and Nima Dorje were unfortunately omitted from those of Jean-Noel Roche’s party who reached the top.
Harvard Mountaineering Club. This past summer, the Club put three parties, 11 members of the Club, into the Alaska Range.Thayer Scudder organized and led the Harvard Brooks-Mather Expedition, making the first ascents of Mt. Brooks 11,900 feet, Mt....
Kangchenjunga, by John Tucker. 217 pages and 34 illustrations. Foreword by Sir John Hunt. London: Elek, 1955. Price, 21 s.John Tucker’s pleasant story of the reconnaissance of the southwest side of Kangchenjunga in 1954 will not become a classic, ...
A NOTE ON MOUNT OLYMPUS, CASCADESFollowing the publication in last year’s A.A.f. of the early climbing records of Mount Olympus my attention was called by Dr. J. M. Thorington to the fact that in the 1932 and 1940 A. A. C. booklets Belmore Browne ...
Marcus Baker, First Winter Ascent, Chugach Mountains. On February 6 Rob Bowen, Greg Durocher, Charlie Hammond and I started up the Matanuska Glacier for Marcus Baker. The first couple of days we were lost among moraine piles and crevasses on the l...
Killing Dragons: The Conquest of the Alps. Fergus Fleming. New York: Atlantic Monthly Press, 2000. 16 pages of black-and-white photos. 398 pages. $26.00.By one of those coincidences that must play havoc with publishers’ bottom line, these two book...
Devistan. Devistan (21,910 feet) was climbed from the Trisul Glacier by the whole of the Iwate Sangaku Kyokai party on May 24, including Shozo Watanabe, leader, Yoji Kudo, Kazuo Iwabuchi, Seiichi Sawada, Kazuo Domon, Yukio Kudo and Tomo Odanaka.Ic...
New Zealand Expedition to Quebrada Yanganuco, Cordillera Blanca. The inevitable problems of organization overcome, our party, John Tothill, Don Mackay, Jean and Michael Nelson, arrived in Huaraz on July 10. There we picked up our porters and hired...
New Hampshire, Mt. Clay—On about September 1, 1956 John Ochab (37) apparently slipped on wet rocks and fell to his death a few feet below the summit of Mt. Clay. He fell down the gully toward the Great Gulf on the east slope of Mt. Clay. Ochab was...
Kamchatka Volcanoes. One pleasant benefit from the improving relations between what was the USSR and the United States is that previously closed areas are becoming open for exploration and climbing. One of these is the Kamchatka peninsula with its...
Peaks in “Little Switzerland.” As far as I know, Roger Robinson, Ken Cook and I are the only climbers to have been in “Little Switzerland,” which lies within the big bend of the Kahiltna. On July 19 & 20 we climbed P 8130 (“The Royal Tower”)...
Quadrant Spire. The first ascent of this summit was made on July 26 by Hans Gmoser with Jo Kato, Skip Merler, and Roby Fierz. From Fairy Meadow the usual route was taken over all the summits of Quadrant and thence along the ridge running easterly ...