Accident Reports ANAM
Falls on Rock, New York, Shawangunks

FALLS ON ROCKNew York, ShawangunksOf the 26 accidents which occurred from falls in this climbing area, most occurred to leaders. The three which happened to following climbers did not result in serious injury, but one could have, in that the young...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Rope under Leg, Fatigue, Oregon, Smith Rock State Park, Five Gallon Buckets

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ROPE UNDER LEG, FATIGUEOregon, Smith Rock State Park, Five Gallon BucketsOn October 29, Matt Amling (21) of Portland traveled to Smith Rock State Park with his climbing class from a Willamette Valley Community College. The c...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri II Attempt

Dhaulagiri II Attempt. A French expedition of four had hoped to make a ski descent of Dhaulagiri II. They say they were actually on the northwest ridge, although they approached from the south and east. Leader Benoît Chamoux and Georges Sichap rea...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Northern Andes, Citta di Rieti, First Ascent

Citta di Rieti, first ascent. In January 2002 Italians Eliano Pessa and Arnaldo Milesmi, with Argentinean Patricio Cardù (Argentinean Federico Aguero Varela was the expedition’s chief but did not summit), made a first ascent of a virgin mountain n...


Accident Reports ANAM
Utah: Zion National Park

Utah: Zion National Park. A concessioner employee was killed in a fall over a cliff on Deer Trap Mountain. He and two other companions were returning from a trip in the back country during which they tried to scale the canyon cliffs.Source of info...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Petrie and Peaks at the Headwaters of Ovington Creek, Hart Ranges

Petrie and Peaks at the Headwaters of Ovington Creek, Hart Ranges. From August 1 to 8, the British Columbia Mountaineering Club organized a climbing camp in the Hart Ranges of British Columbia’s northern Rocky Mountains. Eleven climbers were helic...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Free-Solo, Exceeding Abilities, California, Joshua Tree National Monument

FALL ON ROCK, FREE-SOLO, EXCEEDING ABILITIES California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn February 20, 1989, a friend and I (33) made a one day trip to Joshua Tree. After leading three climbs rated 5.9 or better, I led the roof of “Hobbit Roof.” Af...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Broad Peak, 1985

Broad Peak, 1985. In A.A.J., 1986 on page 277, a portion of the account written by Sadao Tambe was omitted, telling of the second part of the expedition when six of their members climbed to the summit of Broad Peak. On August 12 one group bivouack...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Alaska, Mt. Foraker

On April 25, 1991, Klass Wierenga (27), Frank De Vos (26), Frank Kleinbekman, and Matthijs Wiggers of the Dutch Mount Foraker Expedition were climbing near the 8000 foot level on the 1974 Variation of the Southeast Ridge of Mount Foraker. At a poi...

| Published N/A


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Disteghil Sar Attempt and Ascent of One of the Madhil Sar Peaks

Disteghil Sar Attempt and Ascent of One of the Madhil Sar Peaks. Kotaru Nakajima, Shinischi Kohara and I had permission to climb Disteghil Sar from the Malangutti Glacier. We placed Base Camp at 3600 meters on the Malangutti Glacier on June 6. Aft...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Lahaul, Baralacha Peak (6111m), Second Ascent

Baralacha Peak (6111 m), second ascent. This peak close to the Baralacha Pass received a second ascent on September 5 by three members from an Indian team led by Ms. Kalpana Mekherjee. The leader with Taponayan Ghosh and Partha Majumdar reached th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Trisul Attempt

Trisul Attempt. Charlie Winger, Laura Zaruba, Clay Hutchison, Kim Knox and I attempted to climb the west face of Trisul. Our high point was reached on September 30 when Hutchison and I established Camp IV at 6700 meters at the end of technical dif...


Book Reviews AAJ
Rock Climbing in France: Locations and Descriptions of 279 Crags

Rock Climbing in France: Locations and Descriptions of 279 Crags. Jean-Pierre Bouvier. Diadem Books, London, 1984. 72 pages, maps. £4.95.My grandmother (and probably yours too) always said, “There’s a place for everything and everything in its pla...


Book Reviews AAJ
Schweizer Trachtenbuch

Schweizer Trachtenbuch, by Louise Witzig. 8vo., 280 pages with 60 plates from color photos and 200 illustrations (sketches and photos) in black and white. Zürich: Schweizerische Trachtenvereinigung, 1954. Price, Sw. fr. 38.The four-volume Volkstra...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afgan Frontier Area, Mandaras Valley and Zebak Area

Mandaras Valley and Zebak Area. An expedition of the Klub Tatrzanski PTTK Krakow, led by Jerzy Wala, climbed first in the Mandaras valley. They made the following ascents: M 3b (19,417 feet; a mile northwest of M 5) on August 10 by A. Gorski, E. B...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna IV, Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt

Annapurna IV, Post-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt. There were three successful ascents of Annapurna IV (7525 meters, 24,688 feet) and one unsuccessful one, all by the northwest ridge. An expedition of six South Koreans under the leadership of Goo Hwa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Introduction/Overview Asia, Afghanistan, Hindu Kush

Two expeditions are known to have climbed 7,492m Noshaq by the “normal route” up the west ridge. Summiting on August 4 were Tim Wood and local guide Aziz Beg, Wood becoming the first Australian to climb the mountain. A third member, Tony Simms, st...

| Published N/A


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina-Chilean Patagonia, Aguja Guillaumet, West Face and Northeast Buttress, 1993

Aguja Guillaumet, West Face and Northeast Buttress, 1993. My father Erich Gatt and I arrived in Patagonia in mid February, 1993 and were greeted by friends who had been there for two months and had been unable to reach a single summit because of b...


Accident Reports ANAM
New Mexico, Shiprock

New Mexico, Shiprock—The accident occurred on 29 May at approximately 6 P.M. on the west face of Shiprock on a pitch commonly known as the “head- wall” about 25 feet from the “notch”. A descent to the ground was in progress after a second ascent o...


Accident Reports ANAM
Climbing Unroped—Washington, Copper Mountain

CLIMBING UNROPED—Washington, Copper Mountain. Harry Christiansen (24) and David Wells and Rick Ohlund were free climbing on the northwest side of Copper Mountain within Mt. Rainier National Park. Christiansen was standing on a rock ledge while his...