STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, DARKNESS, WEATHERNevada, Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, White Rock SpringsLate on the morning of December 21, T. W. (13) andJ P. (18) began climbing Tunnel Vision (III, 5.7) on the A...
Everest, new fees and restrictions on climbers. International publicity about the Nangpa La shooting led some journalists to see it as a factor in the Chinese authorities’ decision to place restrictions on teams going to Everest in spring 2007. Bu...
Anthony's Peak, First Ascent. Chris Howarth, Ian Arnold, Dave Millman and Richard Baines established Advance Base at Karphoro on the Upper Biafo and Uzum Brakk North glaciers. Snow conditions were very lean and the weather unusually fine. After a ...
Winter Ascent of Mount Robson. During the first week of March, Fred Beckey, Alex Bertulis, Tom Stuart and I ascended Mount Robson in two independent groups. Alex and I climbed straight through the Berg Glacier to the base of the north face and int...
Taping for Hand and Fist Jam CracksAndrew Embick, M.D.ROCK SHOES provide comfort and protection for the climber’s feet as well as improving contact with the rock by their adhesion. A properly executed tape job similarly provides comfort for the ha...
Long’s Peak, The Diamond, Bright Star. Bright Star was first climbed by Ed Webster and named in honor of Lauren Husted. A variation was free climbed by Charlie Fowler and Scott Cosgrove, but they avoided the meat of the route. Cameron Tague and I ...
A Bugaboo AdventureFred BeckeyAS RALPH Widrig, Joe Hieb and I trudged to camp at timberline with heavy packs, the solid granite of the Bugaboo Spires looked inviting, for the poor rock we had encountered in the Rockies, excepting only on Mount Lou...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 3 January Leslie Buckland (35), leader, Duke Stock and Russell Hoyt were climbing in Huntington Ravine on Mt. Washington. Buckland had had a moderate amount of rock and ice climbing experience and had visited Mt. ...
Mount Crillon—Sixty-One Years AgoBradford Washburn(Mount Crillon lies on a peninsula immediately west of Glacier Bay in the Alaskan Panhandle. Its summit rises to 3879 meters or 12,727 feet, ten miles above the Pacific Ocean on the west and eleven...
The Fourth Pucahirca. As every serious student of the Andes knows, there are three Pucahircas. We, the members of the 1955 North American Andean Expedition, had read all the literature about them—two paragraphs. Except for a solo ascent by Erwin S...
Mt. Moran, South Buttress Houdini. In three days in October, Hans Johnstone and I fixed some protection and opened the beautiful corner system 15m right of South Buttress Right. The first two pitches are 5.11 classic corners with excellent protect...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDAlberta, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Mount BrockOn April 24, a helicopter spotted the body of C.N. (31) in rough terrain at 8,400 feet in a gully on Mount Brock in the spectacular Opal Range in Peter Lou...
The Cats Ears, Devils Thumb. The Cats Ears is a spectacular double tower mounted on the west face of the Devils Thumb. It was climbed in July by Paul Starr, Fred Douglas, and me from Vancouver, British Columbia. Our approach was from Petersburg by...
A.A.C., Southern California Section. With the increasing AAC membership in the Southern California area, there has been need for a local organization to tie the group together and to stir up a greater interest and participation in Club affairs. As...
Mountaineering summary and statistics.During the 2001 climbing season 42 mountaineering expeditions registered in Kluane National Park Reserve. A total of 163 persons spent 2,872 person-days in the Icefields. The weather was again typical of the S...
A Woman’s Reach, by Nea Morin. New York: Dodd, Meade and Co. Inc., 1968. 288 pages, 24 illustrations, 3 maps.This is an absorbing book, delightfully and humorously written and superbly illustrated with many of the author’s own photographs. It is h...
Zanskar I (Z I) and P 18,045. These previously unclimbed peaks near Nun and Kun were climbed by a 12-man Japanese team from Hokkaido University led by Michizumi Ouchi. On August 15 Dr. T. Kato and the liaison officer Mandip Soin climbed P 18,045 (...
Shadows—Half DomeJames BridwellCHARLIE ROW PULLED HIMSELF over to the belay station, clipped in and undid his rappel set-up. “You look fried,” I said as he moved around me into his portaledge. His normal good looks were drawn and grayed with insta...
California, Mt. Shasta. On 29 December, 1965, Les Wilson (34), John Crowley (20) and Fred Daenzer (20) left Berkeley, California, to attempt a climb of Mt. Shasta. In the course of the climb they became snowbound as the result of a violent storm f...
Torre Central del Paine— El Regalo de MwomaPaul Pritchard, EnglandTHIS IS THE STORY OF four friends, myself, Simon Yates, Noel Craine and Sean Smith and our new climb on the east face of the Central Tower of Paine.My ascender hits a fraction point...