Cordillera Carabaya, 1965. In the A.A.J., 1966, 15:1, p. 181 the description of the peaks climbed by the University of Keele Expedition was incomplete. The full story appears in Cambridge Mountaineering, 1966 pages 7 to 11. A map is included.
Cho Oyu from the North in the Pre-Monsoon Season. All ascents of Cho Oyu (8201 meters, 26,906 feet) were made by the first ascent route, first climbed by the Austrian Tichy in 1954. They were 7 Taiwanese led by Liang Ming-Pen, Summit reached on Ma...
A number of new climbs have been made in the Tetons during recent years, commonly very difficult rock climbs. These will be listed from south to north.Granite Canyon, Givler’s Arête. This route, the first prominent buttress on the south side of Gr...
The Saber. From Sky Pond in Loch Vale one views the slender ridge of the Petit Grepon and to the right and east of it rises a great red corner, 1000 feet high. Dean Moore and I made its first ascent on July 13 in five hours. After climbing unroped...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The Club’s summer activities in 1951 were centered in the leaders’ climbing school, held in the Hermit Range of the southern Selkirks. In addition, an H.M.C. expedition made three first ascents in the Windy Range of th...
Aguja Nevada I, Pirányide and Other Peaks Above the Quebrada Parón. We were thirteen: Kazimierz Malczyk, leader, Michal Chwistek, Michal Kulig, Andrzej Olszewski, Ryszard Pawlowski, Adam Pietras, Maciej Stobierski, Jerzy Wewióra, Stanislaw Wylezal...
Polish Wakhan Expedition, 1963. Under the leadership of Andrzej Wilczkowski, a group of Poles climbed in the Wakhan. On September 22, M. Gryczynski, B. Mac, A. Tikarski and Warteresiewicz made the third ascent of Kishmi Khan (c. 23,600 feet) and t...
Alpamayo, Southeast Face, 1979. In the first week of July, 1979 Dave Jenkins and I climbed up the glacier at the foot of the southeast face of Alpamayo. We found 500 feet of fixed rope near the base of the face left a month before by Yugoslavs, wh...
Bugaboos, Various Ascents. On July 6, Todd Offenbacher, Jay Sell, Bob Schultz and Nils Davis arrived at the CMH Lodge. The four of us met Paul Bingham, a British friend of Todd’s living in Vancouver, who joined us for the first four days. The grou...
Alpamayo and Tayapampa. In the first part of our expedition we attempted unsuccessfully to climb Alpamayo using the classic approach route from the Quebrada Alpamayo. The condition of the north glacier was so bad because of the lack of snow, big c...
Mount Vulcan, Kluane Ranges, St. Elias Mountains. M. E. Alford and I made what we presume to be the first ascent of Mount Vulcan (c. 9300 feet; longitude 138°29', latitude 60° 51'), highest peak of the Kluane Ranges, comprised of the abrupt scarp ...
Chearoco west face, south and north summits. Rodolfo Grispo and I climbed the west face of Chearoco (6157 meters, 20,200 feet) in June. The face consisted of 55° frozen firn of excellent quality above a large icefall. We bivouacked at the base of ...
West Temple, Full Steam Ahead. Between Gettin’ More Western and Back Where It All Begins, this route climbs 13 new 60-meter pitches to join Back Where It All Begins for a final three pitches to the summit. It was soloed on January 10, 1999, by Amm...
Cerro Capurata, Northern Andes. A light party of the Club Andino de Chile, Sección Santiago, made the first ascent of this snow volcano (19,653 feet) on the Chilean-Bolivian border. Police Captain Pedro Rosendo and Ignacio Morlans reached the top ...
Chichiccapac and Other Peaks of the Cordillera Carabaya. We arrived at Base Camp on July 4. It had taken us five days to explore the country and to find a site for Base Camp and three days to move everything into the area. A few days were spent in...
Various Climbs in the Northern Cascades. This north buttress of Amphitheater Mountain lies just east of the middle finger buttress on the broad north face. On July 20, 1983, Mike Carville and I climbed it, following a line on the right side. Obvio...
Thunder Mountain, ski descent of west face. This 2,000' face is prominent on the flight to Kahiltna Base. On April 25 Andrew McLean and I gained the upper glacier by traversing in from the west above a steep narrow icefall. After skinning across t...
On April 20, a climber fell to his death while being lowered, due to the webbing on one of the anchor’s parting and not being properly clipped in to the equalizing anchor. In the case of the webbing, it was only masking tape that connected (and hi...
Gasherbrum V. A 12-man Japanese expedition, led by Ryuichi Babaguchi, made the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (24,020 feet), but also met with tragedy. Three members of the party reached the summit on August 1. The next day Babaguchi set out alone a...
Sequoia National Park. On the Memorial Day weekend, Herb Laeger and I added another classic route, Aspire, on the magnificent 1200-foot west face of the Fin, facing Castle Rock Spire. We started 150 feet up and right of a prominent pine growing at...