PULLED ROCK OFF–FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, EXCEEDING ABILITIESOregon, Smith Rock State Park, Misery Ridge MesaOn October 17, Brent Bishop (19) and his friend Jason (19) were scrambling the fourth class route to the top of the Misery Ridg...
Pico Gotico, West Face, New Route. On August 26-27, Erik and Grigota Monasterio established the highest pure rock route done in Bolivia. From a high camp at 5250 meters, one hour west-southwest of Laguna Glaciar (5038m) on the moraine directly bel...
San Lorenzo, East Ridge. Casimiro Ferrari, Danilo Valsecchi, Annibale Borghetti and Maurizio Villa made the sixth ascent of San Lorenzo and the second ascent of the east ridge in January. Their route was somewhat more directly on the ridge than th...
Siguniang, North Face Attempt. Our expedition spent three weeks in the small, isolated Siguniang Range in western Sichuan province during the post-monsoon season. The members of our trip included Jim Kanzler, Jim Donini, Kim Schmitz and me as clim...
Cerro Fitz Roy, Various Activity. The classic Franco-Argentine Route appears to have had just one ascent, by Philippe Wheelock and Brad McMillon (U.S.), with Markus Pucher (Austria), on December 2, 2000. El Corazon on Fitz Roy’s east face was atte...
Hunter, Southwest Ridge to South Summit. After encountering chest-deep snow on the Lowe-Kennedy route, Andy Jenson, Cory Brettmann, Dave Karl and I had Jim Okonek fly us to the south side of Mount Hunter. We had our eyes set on the southwest ridge...
California, Banner Peak. On 3 September Jared L. Wright (26) was killed when he fell as he attempted to climb the peak.Source: Newspaper clipping; Tom Jukes, Joseph T. Rodel — Forest Supervisor.
In 2003 Steffan Laetsch, Frank Polte, and Jens and Michael Richter from Germany attempted a new route on the south face of Apostelens Tommelfinger. After climbing 1,600m up to UIAA VIII- A2 45°, they were forced to give up at a point estimated to ...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCE British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Yoho National ParkOn December 28,1986, a climber was attempting to lead the first steep pitch on Massey Waterfall. He put in one ice screw part way up the pitch, a...
Chimney Rock, Selkirk Crest. On August 19, Ann Robertson and I made the first ascent of a new three-pitch route on the north side of Chimney Rock. The first lead was a superb 5.10c crack system that split the middle of an obvious prow just a few f...
“Ces Monts sublimes.” Les Ecrivains a la Montagne, by Claire- Eliane Engel and Charles Vallot. 8 vo. ; 304 pages, with bibliography, index and 8 illustrations by Samivel. Paris : Librairie Delagrave (15 Rue Soufflot), 1936.This volume is the secon...
Fairweather. Patrick Flanagan, Dan Stevenson and I started from the beach near Sea Otter Creek on May 1. We were heading for the west ridge of Fairweather from the Grand Plateau Glacier. We ferried two loads each to the snow in three days and bega...
Everest, South Col/Southeast Ridge, Speed Ascent. Speed ascents of Mount Everest have rarely been attempted. Now a well-known 35-year-old Sherpa named Kaji says he raced from Base Camp on the Nepalese side at 5350 meters to the South Col to the to...
Shigri Parbat Ascent and Tragedy. An 18-man expedition from the Indian Army Corps of Engineers was led by Major M.P. Yadev. They made the second ascent of Shigri Parbat (6526 meters, 21,410 feet). The only previous ascent was by a British team on ...
Kwangde Central Northeast Face. Alan Kearney’s full article on this ascent appears earlier in this volume.
Everest Photograph Corrections. The captions on the photographs appearing on pages 53 and 55 of AAJ1991 were not correct. Plate 14 was taken by Mike Browning. In the photo are Ang Jambu, Nima Tashi, Dana Coffield and Brent Manning. Plate 15 was ta...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. With a large group of enthusiastic freshmen, climbing activities have picked up considerably at Dartmouth. As usual a majority of new members are gleaned from the ranks of the thrice weekly climbing classes for which...
Kangchenjunga Challenge, by Paul Bauer. 202 pages and 12 illustrations. Foreword by Sir John Hunt. London: Kimber, 1955. Price, 18 s.Paul Bauer, one of the famous climbers of this century, here recounts the story of the Bavarian attempts to climb ...
A SURPRISING QUOTATION"There is an indefinite expectation of seeing something very strange, which however often it may be balked, never fails with me to recur on each successive attempt. Every one must know the feeling of triumph and pride which a...
Igikpak, Northeast Face and Upper East Ridge, Brooks Range. September 2 found me at 1:30 at 5200 feet below the glacial headwall of Igikpak’s east face with 85 feet of 7-mm rope, 4 carabiners, 2 nuts, 6 slings a geology hammer and a pocketful of c...