Kalanka and P 6187. We were four weeks in the Nanda Devi Sanctuary with Base Camp at the foot of the moraine of the Uttari Rishi Gal. The weather was changeable. From September 15 to 19, G. Martellotti, N. Kekus and I repeated the Japanese route o...
In late August Colorado climber and hand surgeon Ken Duncan and I made the first ascent of the southeast prow of Cloud Peak in the Cloud Peak Wilderness. After a rough 12-mile hike from the east, we camped between Sapphire and Diamond lakes. At da...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Outstandingly good weather during the summer of 1958 brought feverish activity to the mountains of the Pacific Northwest. Mount Fury’s west peak, the last unclimbed peak in the Picket range (see article in this Journal), w...
Crumble Tower, When Hairy Met Scary; and Half Dome, Irregular Route. On August 9 Graham Rowbotham (Canada) and I made the first ascent of the limestone tower immediately south of Waldorf Tower in the Remillard Group of the Selkirk Mountains. We cl...
Cerro Torre, Attempt. During the good-weather period in early January, Toni Ponholzer and a man named Franz (Austria) climbed to within four pitches of the northwest shoulder via a line Ponholzer had attempted previously on the east, northwest and...
Schweizerland, Pk. 3,200m, first ascent. An 11-member Indian expedition, led by former naval officer and Everest summiter Satyabrata Dam, arrived in Kulusuk on July 1. They were helicoptered, with two local ski guides, Leifur and Fritjon, reputedl...
PRE-EXISTING INJURYWashington, Mount BakerOn May 21, 1984, John Powell (34) was ice climbing as a member of the North Cascade Alpine School on the Coleman Glacier when he aggravated a previous back injury at the 1600 meter level. He was temporaril...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK (17), RAPPEL ERRORS (5), INADEQUATE BELAYS (5), INADEQUATE PROTECTION (5), PROTECTION PULLED (2), DISLODGED ROCKS (2)New York, ShawangunksThere were 24 accidents reported from the Shawangunks this year, of which 18 happened w...
Borup Fiord, Ellesmere Island, 1988. Although the primary aims of the expedition were scientific, there was mountaineering activity. Most peaks over 3000 feet in the area were climbed. Mount Leith (3822 feet; 80° 51' 30" N, 81° 36' 20" W) was clim...
Geologic History of the Yosemite Valley, by François E. Matthes. Washington, Government Printing Office, 1930. U. S. Geol. Survey Professional Paper 160. $1.10.This long-awaited monograph on the Yosemite Valley sets forth the evolution of the vall...
Broad Peak, Women’s Expedition. Anna Czerwinska* and Krystyna Palmowska* were the entire Polish women’s expedition to Broad Peak. These two set up Base Camp, Camp I and Camp II at 5000, 5800 and 6350 meters on May 24, 26 and June 1 with no porter ...
Colorado: (4) Rocky Mountain National Park, McHenry Peak (13,300 ft.) On 9 July 1950 a Y.M.C.A. camp counselor, George Cowles, 23, was struck by a falling rock and as a result experienced a 200-foot fall on jagged rocks near the summit of this pea...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 1, 1988, the four man Italian “Valmalenco Expedition” departed the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna to traverse over Kahiltna Pass in an attempt of the Wicker- sham Wall. On June 4 they proceede...
Masherbrum, Northwest Face. Our expedition consisted of Michael Larcher, Andreas Orgler, Hans Bärnthaler, Christoph Rimml, Thomas Burtscher and me as leader. After leaving Skardu on June 17 with 63 porters, we got to Base Camp on June 25 at 4300 m...
Lake District, Bariloche, Cerro Catedral. The granite spires around Refugio Frey in Cerro Catedral provide great rock climbing, with routes ranging from one to ten pitches in a beautiful alpine environment. Routes tend to be mixed, requiring an av...
Khan Tengri: A Russian expedition of last summer, under the leadership of a Mr. Pogrebezki succeeded in accomplishing the ascent of this peak, the highest summit of the Tien Shan, and confirmed the accuracy of Merzbacher’s determination of its alt...
Central Chile. On December 8, 1954, Jorge Chaparro and Raúl Vouriot made the first ascent of 13,616-foot El Paso.
Cloudveil Dome, “Nimbus,” Tetons. Steve Koch and I did a new five-pitch route on the northeast face of Cloudveil Dome, which we named “Nimbus.” The climb is a dark, wet chimney that really has no appeal except as an ice route. We have watched it c...
FALL ON ROCK, NO “SPOTTING” PROTECTIONBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Vowell GroupA large group from the ACC General Mountaineering Camp below the Vowell Glacier were bouldering at Tamarack Glen above the north margin of the glacier on July 2...
Nanda Devi. An eleven-man Indian expedition, organized by the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and under the leadership of Major Narendra D. Jayal, failed to climb Nanda Devi in July, 1957. They followed the route of the British-American Himalay...