Bamba Dhura. An Indo-Tibetan Border Police team led by Assistant Commandant Mahendra Singh climbed Bamba Dhura (6334 meters, 20,780 feet) in early September. It is situated at the head of the Kalabaland Glacier in eastern Kumaon.Harish Kapadia, Hi...
Hardeol Tragedy. A joint Indian-New Zealand all-women expedition was made up of Mrs. Shashi Kanta, co-leader Meena Agarwal, Swapna Mitra, Sreela Kundu, Vidya Ramachandran and Nandini Pandya, Indians, and Mrs. Margaret Clark, co-leader, Faye Kerr, ...
Additional Information on Himalayan Kingdoms Expedition. Sixty-year-old Ramón Blanco had a brush with death during the descent when his supply of oxygen ran out as he was coming down the Hillary Step, not far below the summit. He passed out and wa...
Kongur Tiubie Attempt. An unsuccessful try on the central rib of the southwest face of Kongur Tiubie (7595 meters, 23,278 feet) was made by ten Japanese led by Suichi Torii. Bad weather stopped them at 6510 meters on the great ice wall above their...
Kampire Dior. Led by Keiji Enda, the Hiroshima Yamano-kai expedition climbed Kampire Dior (23,436 feet). After leaving Gilgit on May 10, they traveled through Imit, Bilhanz, Bohrt and Karambar to reach on May 23 Base Camp at 13,775 feet on the low...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The main club activities, the spring ski camp and the annual summer camp, proved highly successful. Ski camp was held at Mount Assiniboine from March 27 to April 5, with 34 people in attendance. All non-perishable food w...
Ancohuma, Casiri Este and Other Peaks of the Cordillera Real. The University College, Bangor Andean Expedition, which consisted of the late Michael Birchall, leader, Robert Hall, Robert Winfield and me, left Britain on April 28. On May 23 we estab...
Venus Needle. This very spectacular tower of crumbling sandstone is located 17 miles northwest of Fort Defiance, Arizona, just over the New Mexico line. In the chill of morning on November 7, Layton Kor and I crawled numbly out of our car and sort...
Princeton Mountaineering Club. The spring of 1951 found the Club preparing its first bulletin, climbing in the Shawangunks and looking forward to an active summer. During the summer members made first ascents in the Yukon and a number of climbing ...
Koh-i-Langar, Wakhan. An expedition of the Traunstein section of the Deutscher Alpenverein alone of the number who applied was given permission for this remote part of Afghanistan, which lies near the Russian, Chinese and Pakistani frontiers. The ...
Tsacra Grande Oeste, Tsacra Chico Norte, Rasac, Ninashanca, Yerupajá, Trapecio, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our group consisted of Frenchmen Nicolas Jaeger and photographer Philippe Charliat, Englishmen Brian Hall and me, and the Peruvian porter Alfonso...
Nevado de Atoroma, Jachacunocollo or Jacha Collo, Gigante Chico, Cordillera Quimsa Cruz, and Other Peaks. Our expedition was made up of Heiko Metz, the Bolivian Jorge Morato, my wife Ria and me. We drove from La Paz via Patacamayo, Panduro and Cax...
Otis Peak, various new routes. On the south face of Otis Peak, just west of the Otis Flower Tower, we climbed what we think are a number of new routes. If you see the area, you will understand why it is hard to identify specific formations—there a...
Cerro Tupungato, Central Andes. Ignacio Morlans and Pedro Rosende made an ascent on January 17 of Cerro Tupungato (21,490 feet) via its classical route (northwest slopes) with very low temperatures.
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK-TWO INCIDENTSColorado, Black Canyon of the GunnisonOn June 17, Zach Alberts (20) fell while leading a climb of the 5.10+ Cruise route. Alberts was climbing about 10 feet above his last piece of protection when he lost his foot...
Mount Nesselrode, Northern Boundary Range. In August the first ascent of Mount Nesselrode (8100 feet) was made by a party including Aylmer Thompson, A. Clough, John Schuff, Heidi Goodwin, Simon Waldram, Lock and Lance Miller and me.Maynard M. Miller
White Needle, Southeast Ridge, Nun-Kun Group, 1979. Ewa Hara- simowicz, Krystyna Niederle and Andrzej Pelc established Base Camp on the Sapath Glacier at 14,100 feet and Camp I at 18,375 feet. On October 30 and November 1, 1979 they scaled a new r...
Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks. Layton Kor and I spent two days putting up five pitches on the Rainbow Wall, three of them free. The third has one bolt and later we freed this. Pitch 5 had some tricky nailing. We retreated to get more pins and bolts beca...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton. On 31 August, Denis W. Robinson (20) and three companions were climbing the Exum Ridge. Robinson was leading the “Friction Pitch.” As he reached for a handhold his shoulder dislocated. He was able t...
P 7024, Sia Group. Our expedition left Khapalu on May 29 and established Base Camp on the Kondus Glacier on June 3. Camp II was at 18,700 feet on the Sia La at 18,700 feet. P 7024 (23,048 feet) was some three miles north of the pass. Camps III and...