Sam Ford and Eglington Fiords, Baffin Island. No climbers had visited these mountains since 1950 when three Swiss and an American in three months climbed 15 new mountains. The only other previous ascents were of two mountains in 1934. The Ottawa S...
From September 6 to October 5 Lionel Albrieux, Sébastien Bohin, Didier Jourdain, Dimitry Munoz, Sébastien Ratel, and François Savary, from the Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne, made the first lengthwise crossing of the Cordillera Darwin. The ...
New altitude survey; Mt. Craddock, west face; Mt. Gardner, ascent; Mt. Tyree, attempt. As a continuation of previous GPS work on Mt. Shinn (2002), Livingston Island (2003), and the Vinson Massif (2004), another expedition from the Omega Foundation...
El Capitan, Muir Wall, Attempted Free Ascent. On April 15, Kurt Smith, Greg Epperson and I embarked on a ground-up free ascent of the Muir Wall. Our plan was to free-climb each pitch in redpoint or pinkpoint (gear left in place) style. We personal...
Ascent. Allen Steck, Steve Roper, and David Harris, editors. Golden, CO: The American Alpine Club Press, 1999. Large format, numerous color and black-and-white photographs. 314 pages. $24.95.Shortly after the New Year, the New York Times published...
New Routes on Familiar Canadian PeaksGeorgia EngelhardPRIOR to 1933 the traverse of Mt. Victoria had been made three times,1 in each case starting from Lake Louise, climbing North Peak, thence following the ridge over Main Peak to Abbot Pass. This...
MICHAEL WOODWARD HANE 1935–1971Participation in an expedition to the Cordillera Blanca had long captured Mike’s imagination. Early in 1971 I learned of his determination to go finally to Peru during the coming summer. Later, Gerry Roach told me th...
Das Buch von der Alp, by Giuseppe Zoppi. 8vo., pp. 176, with illustrations from pen-drawings by Hans Tomamichel. Einsiedeln: Benziger and Co., 1939.The author, now a professor at Zurich, was once a herd-boy on the alplands of Canton Ticino. He has...
Tang Kongma and DrohmoBuilding a bigger windowby Doug Scott, United KingdomTo climb new routes, alpine style, up high, it is necessary to have experience and strength. How quickly the pursuit is taken up depends on one’s window of opportunity. Ine...
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Long’s Peak (1)—On August 30, 1955. Rod Harris and Felix Hagerman set out to climb the east face ofLong’s Peak via Stettners ledges and the Window. The following is Hagerman’s account:“Stettners was in beaut...
Gasherbrum IV (7,980m), attempt at west face. Andrew Lindblade and Athol Whimp made two attempts on Gasherbrum IV. Their main aim was the second ascent of the celebrated 1985 Route on the 2,500m west face climbed by Voytek Kurtyka and Robert Schau...
EDWARD WARREN HARNDEN 1865 - 949Mountaineers are always indebted to those who, after exploring a region and discovering the enjoyment of it for themselves, take pains through their writing to induce others to follow after them and experience simil...
These two easy summits are located in the Ghujerab Muztagh, the range between the Shimshal and Ghujerab rivers [referred to as the Karun Koh group on the Miyamori Japanese maps—Ed.]. They lie close to the Boesam pass on the main route from Shimsha...
Arctic Wilderness, by Robert Marshall. Edited, with an introduction, by George Marshall. Foreword by A. Starker Leopold. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1956. xxvi, 171 pages; ills.; maps. Price $3.75.Here is truly a book of mountaineeri...
SEVERE WEATHER - FROSTBITE, HYPOTHERMIA, COMMUNICATION PROBLEMSWashington, Mount Rainier, Ingraham GlacierOn the evening of May 20, a report came into Camp Muir describing a bad scene in which a guided team of twelve (four guides and eight clients...
The SaberA pitch a day and bone-numbing cold define the first two routes on the north face of Gora Sablya, the biggest wall in the northern Urals) Russia.By Konstantin BeketovNowhere is the frontier of Europe more clearly expressed than in the eas...
DAVID ALSOP CARTER 1907-1988David Alsop Carter died in Pueblo, Colorado on February 9, 1988 of lung cancer. Bom on January 16, 1907 in Lansdowne, Pennsylvania, Dave developed a love of the outdoors early in life, spending the summers at the family...
Great Trango Tower, northwest face, completion of Ukrainian route (2003) and new variation to Azeem Ridge; Broad Peak, attempt. In the summer of 2007 the Krasnoyarsk Federation of Alpinism, with support of the administration of the Krasnoyarsk Reg...
Problems in the Geology of Mountains, by Joel E, Fisher, 8vo., 80 pages, with 41 illustrations (mostly photographs pasted in the text). New York: published privately, 1944.Many Alpinists perhaps do not realize that their wide and varied experience...
Mount Kennedy, North Ridge, First Ascent. In 1968, Todd Thompson, Joe Faint, Philip Koch, and David Seidman made the first ascent of the north ridge (56 pitches, Alaskan Grade VI 5.8 A3) of Mt. Kennedy (13,905 feet) from June 26 to July 29, reachi...