Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped, Alberta, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Mount Brock

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDAlberta, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Mount BrockOn April 24, a helicopter spotted the body of C.N. (31) in rough terrain at 8,400 feet in a gully on Mount Brock in the spectacular Opal Range in Peter Lou...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, The Cats Ears, Devils Thumb

The Cats Ears, Devils Thumb. The Cats Ears is a spectacular double tower mounted on the west face of the Devils Thumb. It was climbed in July by Paul Starr, Fred Douglas, and me from Vancouver, British Columbia. Our approach was from Petersburg by...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Southern California Section

A.A.C., Southern California Section. With the increasing AAC membership in the Southern California area, there has been need for a local organization to tie the group together and to stir up a greater interest and participation in Club affairs. As...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, St. Elias Range, Kluane National Park Preserve, Mountaineering Summary and Statistics

Mountaineering summary and statistics.During the 2001 climbing season 42 mountaineering expeditions registered in Kluane National Park Reserve. A total of 163 persons spent 2,872 person-days in the Icefields. The weather was again typical of the S...


Book Reviews AAJ
A Woman's Reach

A Woman’s Reach, by Nea Morin. New York: Dodd, Meade and Co. Inc., 1968. 288 pages, 24 illustrations, 3 maps.This is an absorbing book, delightfully and humorously written and superbly illustrated with many of the author’s own photographs. It is h...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Kashmir and Ladakh, Zanskar I (Z I) and P 18,045

Zanskar I (Z I) and P 18,045. These previously unclimbed peaks near Nun and Kun were climbed by a 12-man Japanese team from Hokkaido University led by Michizumi Ouchi. On August 15 Dr. T. Kato and the liaison officer Mandip Soin climbed P 18,045 (...


Feature Article AAJ
Shadows—Half Dome

Shadows—Half DomeJames BridwellCHARLIE ROW PULLED HIMSELF over to the belay station, clipped in and undid his rappel set-up. “You look fried,” I said as he moved around me into his portaledge. His normal good looks were drawn and grayed with insta...


Accident Tables ANAM
Miscellaneous Information, Table III

California, Mt. Shasta. On 29 December, 1965, Les Wilson (34), John Crowley (20) and Fred Daenzer (20) left Berkeley, California, to attempt a climb of Mt. Shasta. In the course of the climb they became snowbound as the result of a violent storm f...


Feature Article AAJ
Torre Central del Paine — El Regalo de Mwoma

Torre Central del Paine— El Regalo de MwomaPaul Pritchard, EnglandTHIS IS THE STORY OF four friends, myself, Simon Yates, Noel Craine and Sean Smith and our new climb on the east face of the Central Tower of Paine.My ascender hits a fraction point...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Hallucinogen Wall, First Free Ascent Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, North Chasm View Wall

When Ben Lepesant asked if I’d be interested in climbing classic routes in the Black Canyon, I did some research and discovered that the Hallucinogen Wall hadn’t been freed. Then I remembered its history and the story about the ice axes, and it be...

| Published 2011 | Author Hansjörg Auer


In Memoriam AAJ
Frank N. Waterman, 1865-1948

FRANK N. WATERMAN 1865-1948By the death of Frank N. Waterman on 19 January 1948, the city of Summit, N. J., lost one of its most prominent and honored citizens, for he had been a resident there for almost half a century and during the early years ...


Book Reviews AAJ
High Mountains and Cold Seas

High Mountains and Cold Seas A Biography of H. W. Tilman, by J. R. L. Anderson. Seattle: The Mountaineers, 1980. 364 pages, illustrations, sketch maps. Price $20.00.Bill Tilman was the quintessential British explorer: tough and flexible as good le...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Since its organization in March 1947, the Sierra Nevada Section of the A.A.C. has held occasional meetings in the San Francisco Bay region. Recently, the increase of activity has created a need for regular quarterly ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Note on "First Ascent" of Istor-o-Nal, 1955

Note on “First Ascent”of Istor-o-Nal, 1955. Sr. Anglada states that, in order to reach the main summit, it was necessary to descend from the southwest ridge and strike southeast, descending some 100 meters to an intervening col en route. I suspect...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Skis, Unable to Self-Arrest, Inexperience, Wyoming, Tetons

FALL ON SKIS, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, TetonsMark Stewart (24), Jeff Zell (26) and William Bowman (32) had decided during the winter that they wanted to ski the east face of Teewinot. Zell said that he and Stewart worked togethe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Bandaka, 1966

Bandaka, 1966. Too late for inclusion in A.A.J., 1967 came word of an unsuccessful attempt on Bandaka. A group of students from Marseille, Vincent Bourges, P. Vidaillet, G. Dawson, F. Menniot and R. Lankester, failed about 500 feet from the summit...


Book Reviews AAJ
Kongur: China's Elusive Summit

Kongur: China’s Elusive Summit. Chris Bonington. Hodder and Stoughton, London, 1982. 224 pages, black and white and color photographs, maps, bibliography. £14.95In an age when mountaineering is concerned primarily with approaching old problems in ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri, Complete Southwest Buttress

Dhaulagiri, Complete Southwest Buttress. Our international expedition hoped to make the first complete ascent alpine-style of the southwest buttress of Dhaulagiri, attempted by French in 1978 and 1980 up to 7500 meters and by Czechoslovaks in 1985...


Feature Article AAJ
Mount Reliance: Coast Range

Mount Reliance: Coast RangeHenry S. Hall, Jr.AS long ago as 1864 Alfred Waddington gave names to a few features visible from the line of his projected road from Bute Inlet up the Homathko Valley through the Coast Range. One peak of about 10,500 ft...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, U.S., Washington, Cascades, Ascent of the West Face of the North Peak of Mount Index

Ascent of the west face of the North Peak of Mount Index. Easily accessible from the highway, scarcely 60 miles from Seattle, and towering above the town of Index, Washington, are the three peaks of Mt. Index. This spectacular little peak, one of ...