Mountaineering Club of Alaska. Our membership was approximately 260 in 1981. Activities included a monthly slide show of climbs and mountain travels in Alaska and around the world. The club also conducted classes in mountaineering and ice climbing...
Mount Vancouver, Northeast Ridge. The 1975 M.I.T. Outing Club Expedition assembled in mid-June at Haines Junction. We consisted of Cliff Cantor*, Bob Dangel, Paul Ledoux, Rob Milne*, Hal Murray, Bob Walker, John Yates and me as leader. We converse...
At the beginning of February 2009 Markus Stofer and I went to Naeroydalen in southwest Norway. On a visit in 1999 I had noticed big icefalls forming in the fjords close to Gudvangen (Aurland). These are probably some of the highest in the world, f...
The McCall Glacier Station, Brooks Range, AlaskaRobert W. MasonIntroduction . . .One of the many contributions of mountaineers to the scientific study of the conditions in which human beings live is the high altitude scientific station or observat...
Sinai, Jebel Safsafa (Willow Mountain), Holey Moses. Sinai, the land of the Bedouin, conjures a rich and evocative image of lyrical, shifting sands, flowing robes, and the long, loping strides of camels. It also offers many opportunities to open n...
Yale Mountaineering Club. The past year has been spent in providing instruction for new members in the various phases of rock climbing and snow and ice technique, and in enlarging and strengthening the Club’s safety program. A new system has been ...
Black and White is a great new route on solid rock typical of the remarkable Hand of Fatima. The first time we studied the line from the desert below, it was around mid-day and the temperature felt like 60°C. Our eyes followed the shadow of Kaga T...
LOST-WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTWashington, Mount Rainier, Muir snowfieldOn Sunday, September 16th at 6:00 p.m., Chris Stanko and Alex Mondau contacted a Park Ranger at Paradise and reported that their partner Phil Michael was overdue. The pair ...
Chinchey, Chaco. Our expedition, composed of Giacomo Casartelli, Luciano Gilardoni, Riccardo Soresini, Enrico Tettamanti, Marco Zappa and me as leader, climbed in the Quebrada Honda. Base Camp was on a lake at 14,600 feet. We placed Camp I up the ...
Nithi Gorge, Opium of the People. Alex Fiksman and I climbed a new route in the Nithi Gorge over two days in December. The initial goal was to climb the “prow” at the mouth of the gorge (which was climbed a few weeks later by a team from the UK—se...
RAPPEL ANCHOR INADEQUATE, NO RELAY, NO HARD HATWest Virginia, Cooper’s Rock State ForestOn Saturday, July 21, 1990, Dan Audley (31), Marty Donahue and six Boy Scouts stopped on their way home from Camp Mountaineer to do some rappelling. They were ...
High-Altitude Archeology and Andean Mountain GodsJohan ReinhardANTHROPOLOGISTS who climb normally must wait for free time to get into the mountains. Even when we study mountain peoples, such as the Sherpas of Nepal, the research rarely involves cl...
Hardeol and Tirsuli. A 43-member team from the Indian Border Security Force was led by S.C. Negi. On September 24, T.R. Angdoo, Jumma Khan, Jamuna Prasad, Naresh Singh and S.D. Thomas climbed over a 22,500-foot foresummit and reached the summit (7...
On Belay! The Life of Legendary Mountaineer Paul Petzoldt. Raye C. Ringholz. Mountaineers Books: Seattle, 1998. 272 pages. $24.95.Paul Petzoldt is a mountaineering icon who, at 91 years of age, represents a lifetime of achievement in exploration, ...
INADEQUATE BELAY, CLIMBER LOWERED OFF END OF ROPE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT — ROPE TOO SHORTColorado, Clear Creek Canyon, Highlander CragOn December 20, 2009, a 35-year-old man climbing with his girlfriend fell 20 to 25 feet. They were climbing in Cle...
A Century of Mountaineering. 1857-1957, by Arnold Lunn. London: George Allen & Unwin Ltd., 1957. 263 pages; 8 plates in color; 16 plates from photographs. Price 25 s.This handsome volume, uniform in size and style with “The Mountain World” ser...
Mount Foraker, Ski Descent of the Sultana Ridge. On May 28, Julie Faure, Jim Hopkins, and I assembled at Kahiltna Base Camp to attempt to climb Mounts Foraker and Crosson and descend both on freeheel skis. Montecucco and Hopkins warmed up with an ...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION California, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn May 16, 1992, while climbing the second pitch of “The Nose” route on El Capitan, Bruce Burns (37) fell about 60 feet while leading. He was injured, and was unconscious fo...
In one of the more remote valleys of that sub-arctic rain forest called the Canadian Rockies, there is a mountain wall which acts like a strong drug on the mind of the observer. So dark, sheer, and gloomy is the North Face of North Twin, like a ...
FALL ON SNOW, EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIA, HACE, FROSTBITE,INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn April 27,1994, Pauline Brandon (33) and Richard Tyler (28) began their climb of the West Buttress of Mount McKinley. On May 5, solo climber Trigger Twig enco...