The Obelisk, Dihedral Route. On the steep north face, right of the “Hands of Fate” route (A.A.J., 1977) is a prominent vertical left-facing comer system that starts about one-half pitch above the ground and leads to the summit. Rick Smith, Eve Lae...
Clifton H.W. Maloney 1938–2009Clifton H.W. Maloney, 71, an investment banker and a long-time member of the New York Section, perished at a high camp on Cho Oyu on September 25 after reaching the summit the day before. He thus became the oldest Ame...
Annapurna I, South Face, Attempt and Ascent. On the fifth anniversary of Ukrainian independence, the Ukrainian Federation of Alpinism organized the First National Expedition to the Himalayan peak Annapurna I (8091 m). The People’s Deputy of Ukrain...
The Will to Climb: Obsession and Commitment and the Quest to Climb Annapurna— the World’s Deadliest Peak. Ed Viesturs and David Roberts. Crown: 2011. 304 pages. Hardcover. $26.00.The Will to Climb sat in my book pile for a long time. The title tur...
New Colorado Ice Climbs, 1973-1975Michael Kennedy, Elk Mountain Climbing ClubTHERE was little interest in winter ice climbing in Colorado as an end in itself until fairly recently. Improvements in technique and equipment, and a general keenness to...
Trisul from the West. Ferdl Schneider and I started out from Ghat with three porters and our liaison officer and ascended the Nandakini valley for four-and-a-half days through endless forests. At Base Camp I became ill with pulmonary edema and we ...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION – KNOWN AVALANCHE HAZARDWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mount TeewinotOn May 23 at 1300, Jackson climber Phillip Jones arrived at the Jenny Lake Ranger Station to report that his climbing partner, Irene McManus, had be...
Higher than the Eagle Soars: A Path to Everest. Stephen Venables. London: Hutchinson, 2007. 370 pages. Hardcover. $49.95.Don’t be scared by the clunky title—Higher than the Eagle Soars manages to be both thrilling and introspective. It is a rare c...
SLIP ON SNOW, SKIING, INEXPERIENCEOregon, Mount HoodOn Saturday, April 24, 1982, after a group spent nine hours climbing and preparing to ski from the summit of Mount Hood, it took only a minute of skiing for most of the party to be placed in life...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. The Club’s official outings were limited to local practice climbs at nearby areas. Two week-end winter trips were held at Starved Rock State Park, near Ottawa, Illinois, where conditions were ideal for the formation of...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, SKIING UNROPEDAlaska, Mount McKinleyPeter Nadler (36), an experienced professional guide, was the leader of a seventeen member Swiss expedition on the West Buttress Route of Mount McKinley. On June 2, 1984, the group was flown ...
FALL ON ROCK–INAPPROPRIATE DESCENT TECHNIQUE, OFF ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Tenaya CanyonOn the morning of June 20, I, Graham (18), set out from Tenaya Lake for a solo cross-country day hike to Yosemite Valley v...
HAPE, ASCENDED TOO FAST, FAILURE TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONSAlaska, Mount McKinley, Cassin RidgeOn the evening of June 14 the “Princes of the Puff of Smoke” expedition arrived at base camp to start their ascent of the Cassin Ridge. When the team arrive...
Shivling West, Southeast Ridge. Jim Fotheringham and I arrived at Tapovan at 14,050 feet on September 4. The next week was spent establishing Advance Base at the foot of the east face of Kedarnath Dome and making forays to find the best route up t...
LEONARD A. KALAL1919-1996The embodiment of the spirit, the joy, all that is wonderful in mountaineering—that is the persona of Leonard Kalal, remembered by his many friends in the mountaineering community at the University of Colorado in Boulder.H...
Hatun Ulloc, Karma de Los Condores. On August 29 Wayne Crill and I completed a new route on the previously unclimbed 350m south face of Hatun Ulloc in the Quebrada Ishinca. Four large, impressive rock buttresses rise ominously from the forested sl...
Mount Hayes, North Ridge. On the second ascent of Mount Hayes’ north ridge miraculously everything went incredibly well. The weather was excellent, logistics worked out as planned, the route was difficult, but we did get to the summit. Joanne Grov...
The Juneau Icefield Research Program—1960. The Juneau Icefield Research Program continued its annual investigations in the Northern Boundary Range of Alaska during the months of July and August, 1960. Under the aegis of the Foundation for Glacier ...
The Cascade Range of Northern WashingtonHermann F. UlrichsTHE general conception of the Cascade Range is that of a series of broken-down, snow-covered volcanic cones fairly distantly spaced and surrounded and linked together by a simple chain of u...
Cuatro Dedos, Fingerlicious; Dotno Blanco, La Suerte Sangrienta. Chris Brazeau and I arrived in Patagonia on January 11,2007, and teamed with Crystal Davis-Robbins. Within a week we had climbed two new routes, on Aguja Cuatro Dedos and Domo Blanco...