Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Kashmir and Ladakh, White, Needle, Southeast Ridge, Nun-Kun Group, 1976

White Needle, Southeast Ridge, Nun-Kun Group, 1979. Ewa Hara- simowicz, Krystyna Niederle and Andrzej Pelc established Base Camp on the Sapath Glacier at 14,100 feet and Camp I at 18,375 feet. On October 30 and November 1, 1979 they scaled a new r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks

Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks. Layton Kor and I spent two days putting up five pitches on the Rainbow Wall, three of them free. The third has one bolt and later we freed this. Pitch 5 had some tricky nailing. We retreated to get more pins and bolts beca...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Mt. Shasta

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton. On 31 August, Denis W. Robinson (20) and three companions were climbing the Exum Ridge. Robinson was leading the “Friction Pitch.” As he reached for a handhold his shoulder dislocated. He was able t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan—Karakoram, P 7024, Sia Group

P 7024, Sia Group. Our expedition left Khapalu on May 29 and established Base Camp on the Kondus Glacier on June 3. Camp II was at 18,700 feet on the Sia La at 18,700 feet. P 7024 (23,048 feet) was some three miles north of the pass. Camps III and...


Book Reviews AAJ
Volkskunde der Schweiz

Volkskunde der Schweiz, by Richard Weiss. 436 pages, 10 plates and 314 other illustrations, with extensive notes and index. Erlenbach- Zürich: Eugen-Rentsch Verlag, 1946. Price, $7.20.If one does not possess the earlier work by D. Baud-Bovy, Peasa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Afghanistan, Bandaka

Bandaka. The Chuhoh University Expedition from Tokyo was led by Katsumasa Itakura; other members were Hiroshi Katayama, Kuniharu Ichikawa, Seiten Hirota, Keifu Odani and Yukinori Isobe. Ichikawa and Hirota made the sixth ascent of Bandaka (22,450 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Fitz Roy

Fitz Roy. An English expedition has climbed Fitz Roy by a new route, which ascended from the saddle between the French and American routes. After preparing the route in November, they lost 16 days to storm before climbing to the top on December 11...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Turkestan, Indian Mountain Division

Indian Mountain Division. Reports from Berne announce that two well-known Swiss officers will act as instructors for the Mountain Division of the Indian Army in Kashmir; also that the Deputy Chief of Staff of the Swiss Army has been invited to Ind...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Dakshin Southwest Face Solo

Annapurna Dakshin Southwest Face Solo. Italian Luca Tessarin climbed solo the 2000-meter-high southwest face of Annapurna Dakshin by a new route which was mostly 50° to 55° ice with two short vertical sections and 100 meters of UIAA Grade III to I...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, P 5600 and P 5100, Rizhun Gol, Hindu Raj

P 5600 and P 5100, Rizhun Gol, Hindu Raj. The Munich Chitral Expedition consisted of Walter and Barbel Pschorr, Wolfgang Dorn and Karl Landvogt. They were in the Ishporili Gol and the Rizhun Gol, a side valley of the Laspur valley. They climbed on...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Badham and P 3700

Badham and P 3700. On June 13, Christopher Hammel, Mark Makela and I were flown to 2800 meters on the upper Donjek Glacier between Mounts Badham and Donjek. After an acclimatization ski around Donjek and a two-day storm, we made a quick trip up th...


Book Reviews AAJ
Achtung Gams

Achtung Gams, by Walter Majer-Maschée. A picture-book for hunters and mountaineers. Small 4to., pp. 91, with 84 illustrations from photos by the author. Berlin: J. Neumann, 1939.Whatever evil befell humanity from the Austrian Anschluss, it was at ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Mt. Wilson

Colorado, Mt. Wilson—On July 3, 1955, Herbert Martin, unroped, was leading a climbing group on Mt. Wilson. At the time of the accident he was out of sight of the others, so it is not known whether he slipped or was struck by a rock. He fell about ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Eldorado Canyon

Colorado, Eldorado Canyon—On October 17, Darryl Christensen (19), Raymond Jacquot (20), Keith Hull (21), and George Cardon (22), attempted a climb known as Red Guard Wall in Eldorado Canyon, 10 miles southwest of Boulder, Colorado. They crossed th...


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error — Rope Ends Uneven, Fall on Rock, No Hard Hat, Arizona, Oak Flats

RAPPEL ERROR—ROPE ENDS UNEVEN, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HATArizona, Oak FlatsOn April 6, following a bouldering contest in the area, Paul (25) and his climbing partner (24) went for a climb about a half mile from the primary bouldering area, where th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Ladakh, Srikanta, North Ridge

Srikanta, North Ridge. It was reported that in September, 1997, an all-woman’s team from Uttarkashi climbed Srikanta (6133m), the western-most peak in the Gangotri, via the north ridge. Nari Dhami, Suman Kutiyal, Lata Joshi and Radha Rana summited...


Feature Article AAJ
Return to Siguniang A 72-Pitch New Route in China Concludes a Story of Obsession and Redemption

On September 28, 2008, at 4:35 p.m., Dylan Johnson and I summited Siguniang Shan. The journey had thrown many obstacles in our path, from lightning storms to knife-edged ridges, days without food and water, and sleepless nights. We climb...

| Published 2008 | Author Chad Kellogg


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Sarapo, West Face, 1980

Sarapo, West Face, 1980. Despite bad weather and poor snow conditions, Yves Astier, J.M. Boucansaud, Norbert Silvin and Baptiste Ouchick climbed the west face of Sarapo (6143 meters, 20,155 feet) by a 70° snow couloir on May 25 and 26, 1980. The c...


Accident Reports ANAM
Illness — British Columbia, Glacier National Park, Mount Uto

ILLNESSBritish Columbia, Glacier National Park, Mount UtoOn August 28, five climbers were on their way up the Southwest Ridge of Mount Uto, a 5.1 rock climb. One of the climbers, S.L. (F 45), developed sudden acute and severe right lower abdominal...


Feature Article AAJ
The Maximum Miracle Centre

The Maximum Miracle CentreIn Kenya’s Ndoto Mountains, it’s not the climbing you’ll be telling stories about, it’s the bush.Ben Winston"It's like a mini Yosemite,” John Barry had said. “There are loads of walls dotted around, probably between 500 ...