Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine—Chilean Patagonia, Paine Towers, East Face of the Torre Sur and West Face of the Torre Norte

Paine Towers, East Face of the Torre Sur and West Face of the Torre Norte. After the arrival of Frenchman Vincent Sprungli and me at the foot of the Paine Towers on January 18, we started the very next day to take advantage of each period of calm ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Lightning, North Carolina, Hanging Rock State Park

LIGHTNINGNorth Carolina, Hanging Rock State ParkOn March 18, 1989, Staff Sargeant Lynn Tiegdan was struck and killed by lightning on Moore’s Wall. The storm occurred just after 1400. Tiegdan was part of a group of climbers who sought shelter in wh...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Kennedy and Hubbard

Kennedy and Hubbard. Americans Susan B. Clark, Emma Lipton and Ned Corkran climbed Mount Kennedy via the Cathedral Glacier between April 18 and May 7. Americans Bob Kandiko, Jack and Constance Bennet, Joseph Garcia and Karen Neubauer climbed both ...


Book Reviews AAJ
Der Weg zum Berg

Der Weg zum Berg, by Alfred Gräber. 8vo., pp. 191. Same publisher.Two new volumes maintain the excellent standard of publications issued by this energetic group of Munich booklovers. Stöger-Ostin has arranged a new edition of his interesting biogr...


Accident Reports ANAM
Wisconsin, Devil's Lake Practice Bluffs

Wisconsin, Devel’s Lake Practice Bluffs—On October 16, 1955, the weekly Sunday rock climb of the Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers was attended by nine climbers and four leaders. Four rope teams commenced climbing the quartzite buttresses of the east ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Handhold Failure, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Kid Goat Buttress, "Keelhaul Wall"

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, HANDHOLD FAILUREAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Kid Goat Buttress, “Keelhaul Wall”On July 24, Laura and Marty went to the Canadian Rockies for a climbing trip, hoping to do a few routes in the Bow Corridor. Starting ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Menlungtse Attempt

Menlungtse Attempt. Jim Wickwire, Jeff Duenwald, John Roskelley and I entered Tibet from Nepal, hoping to make the first ascent of the eastern and highest summit of Menlungtse (7181 meters, 23,560 feet). The lower western summit had been climbed b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Ladakh, Kedar Dome, East Face, The Sunrise Pillar

Kedar Dome, East Face, The Sunrise Pillar. It was reported that Polish climbers Janusz Golab and two friends repeated Martin Moran’s 1984 route The Sunrise Pillar on the east face of Kedar Dome. The team spent five days on the route before topping...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash, Ninashanca, Northwest Face and Seria Sur, West Face

Ninashanca, Northwest Face, and Seria Sur, West Face. A Polish expedition from Gliwice made a dozen ascents in the Cordillera Huay-huash. On June 30 Janusz Baranek and Andrzej Czok climbed the 1000-foot west face of Seria Sur (5230 meters, 17,159 ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Traverse, Speed

Grand Traverse, Speed. During the summer of 2000, after finding out that arthritis had settled into my hips for good, I suffered a counter-reaction that drove me to run everywhere I could think of and destroy more cartilage as a way to avenge the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Sierra Nevada, Stonehouse Buttress, Milky Way Chimney

Stonehouse Buttress, Milky Way Chimney. In May, 1980 Eve Laeger and I climbed this A3 Beckey route free. IV, 5.10+ .Herb Laeger, Unaffiliated


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Api and Nampa, New Routes, and Bobaye, First Ascent

Api and Nampa, New Routes, and Bobaye, First Ascent. A Slovenian team mounted an expedition to a remote mountain group in western Nepal during the post-monsoon season, establishing three new routes on still-unclimbed faces, including one virgin su...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, St. Elias, South Ridge Attempt

St. Elias, South Ridge Attempt. Willi Hersman, Ray Koleser, Suzy Noldan and I arrived in Yakutat on May 2 in pouring rain. The next day the weather cleared enough for Mike Ivers to fly us to Base Camp at 3500 feet on the southeast side of the Tynd...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche — British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount Robson

AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonOn August 25, 1982, the RCMP in Valemount was contacted by family members of two climbers who had failed to return to work on the expected date. They had expressed interest in climbing a numb...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, The Changing Cascades

The Changing Cascades. In August, Mike Mooney and I packed into the Mount Challenger area. We hoped to carry over Whatcom Pass and then traverse by glacier to Perfect Pass, leaving Whatcom Peak to the west. Next we would cross the Challenger Glaci...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Garhwal, Trisul Solo

Trisul Solo. Our Ladies’ Trisul Expedition, led by me, climbed Trisul by the normal route. On the approach, since the Dharansi Pass was snowbound, we ascended the lower Rishi Ganga route. We established Base Camp on June 4. For the first attempt, ...


Club Activities AAJ
Appalachian Mountain Club

Appalachian Mountain Club. During 1958, members of the Club were active in all the major mountain ranges, including the Himalaya. Club trips were run to Europe, Alaska, the Gaspé, and to many nearer destinations. A complete schedule of climbing tr...


Accident Reports ANAM
Exposure, Inadequte Equipment, Weather, Frostbite, Inexperience — Washington, Mount Rainier

EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHER, FROSTBITE, IN- EXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierOn June 17, 1984, at 0600 William Glenn (34) and Mark Dulapa (29) were dropped at White River Campground Wye to begin a climb of Liberty Ridge and descend t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, P 12,258, West Face, Wind River Range

P 12,258, West Face, Wind River Range. On August 17, Reid Dowdle and I completed what may be a new route on P 12,258, which is .7 of a mile north of Lizard Head and south of South Fork Lake. We started at the low point at the center of the face an...


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Loose Rock, Unroped British Columbia, Rocky Mountain, Mount Assiniboine

SLIP ON LOOSE ROCK, UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount AssiniboineIn August, 1990, two climbers were descending the northeast ridge of Mount Assiniboine after a successful ascent. Two rappels down the ridge, one of them (54) was trave...