Bear’s Tooth, Wind River Range. In early September Reed Tindall and I hiked to near the head of the Downs Fork of Dinwoody Creek. After sitting out a day of heavy hail and thunder, we set out for the spectacular formation of Bear’s Tooth. Our rout...
HYPOTHERMIA, EXHAUSTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 29, 1982, at 1000, friends of Koji Sekine and Tsutomu Tagusari, two Japanese climbers, came to the Ranger Office and reported that they were overdue from...
Ptarmigan Peak, Western Chugach. In mid February, Tom Walters and I climbed the prominent north buttress of Ptarmigan Peak. The route ascends steep comers formed by massive blocks. With four 5th-class pitches on relatively sound rock, the climbing...
Gaurishankar Attempt. A Korean expedition led by Park Jong-Soo tried to climb Gaurishankar’s southwest ridge and over the south summit to the main summit. During their October climbing period, it snowed on three out of four days. The members final...
Hiunchuli, Southeast Face, Winter Ascent, 1986. Chris Watts and I departed a tea lodge at 10,800 feet on December 3, 1986 and toiled for five hours up steep grass slopes to set up camp on the moraine at 13,500 feet. True Camps I and II were placed...
San Valentin, First Winter Ascent. The correct altitude of San Valentin has not been determined with complete accuracy. It is given either as 4058 or 3876 meters (13,314 or 12,716 feet). It is surely the highest of the Patagonian Andes. The first ...
Mount Sill. On July 15 Woody Stark and I climbed Mount Sill by a new route that starts from Lake 11,672 in the Glacier Creek drainage. We started toward the glacier routes, but instead of turning left toward the glacier, we climbed the headwall se...
Mt. Kamet: An English expedition led by Mr. Frank S. Smythe successfully assaulted this Himalayan peak (25,447 feet) and effected two ascents of the world’s highest yet climbed summit. It was favored with good weather conditions and like several o...
REGIONAL SAFETY ACTIVITIESAppalachian Mountain Club—New York Chapter: Norton Smithe, chairman of the Rock Climbing Safety Committee, has forwarded a summary of their climbing code. A code of this sort would be useful to adopt generally and it is a...
Mount McKinley, Western Rim and. Cassin Route of South Face. Our group of eight divided evenly to climb these two routes. My brother Alan, Paul (Tut) Braithwaite and Paul Moores and I climbed the Cassin route while Don Whillans, Gordon (Binke) B...
Thalay Sagar Attempts. Difficult Thalay Sagar (6904 meters, 22,661 feet) was unsuccessfully attempted in 1989. Japanese Akira Kiuchi and a companion failed at 6200 meters on the west ridge in June. Also in June, Italian Placido Castaldi and two fr...
West Face of Mount Conness. Warren Harding and Herbert Swedlund made the first ascent of the west face of Mount Conness in the summer of 1959 in three and one-half days.
Mount Buckner, North Couloir. Steve Doty and I climbed the north couloir on November 14. This first ascent crossed a 60° bergschrund and then led up the prominent couloir which was 1400 feet of steep ice and hard snow.Van Brinkerhoff
Momhil Sar Attempt. Our expedition, which attempted to climb Momhil Sar (7342 meters, 24,088 feet) by the northeast ridge, was composed of Michael Wärthl, leader, Volker Kron, Uli Schneider, Heiner Dehn, Dr. Alexandra Rothkopf, and me. We left Pas...
Mount Teewinot, North Face Variation. This important face is nearly bisected by a large chimney-couloir which parallels the Emerson Chimney about 125 feet to the left (north and east). While routes on both sides of this prominent feature had been ...
Mulkila IV. On August 30, an Italian expedition led by Renzo Gemignani climbed Mulkila IV (6517 meters, 21,381 feet). The summit was reached by Fabrizio Molignoni and a Japanese sculptor Yoshiyuki Tawara, who lives and works in Carrara.
Great White Throne, North Face, Zion National Park. This new route, done by Danny Horton and me on April 23, 1977 in 14 hours, ascended 2200 feet from the road to the top of the hoodoos of the Great White Throne. The first 1000 feet were scramblin...
Temple of Sinawara, Datura, Zion Canyon, 1979. I soloed this route in September, 1979, 90% free, in 12 hours up and down with one fixed rope. It climbs up and through the chimney line to the right of the waterfall on the Temple of Sinawara. (NCCS ...
Mt. Kinesava, The Jolly Green Jam Crack. In early November, I climbed a new ten-pitch route, The Jolly Green Jam Crack (IV 5.10 Cl), on the southeast face of Mount Kinesava. The route ascends the face of a fairly distinct buttress about 200 feet t...
Palisades, Traverse of the Crest. In late July Gerry Adams and I completed the first traverse of the Palisade Crest. The Palisade, with many small glaciers and five peaks over 14,000 feet, is the most alpine region of the range. Atypical of the ra...