Book Reviews AAJ
Across the Olympic Mountains: The Press Expedition

Across the Olympic Mountains: The Press Expedition, 1889–90, by Robert L. Wood. Seattle, Washington: The Mountaineers and the University of Washington Press, 1967. 220 pages, 24 photographs, 9 maps. Price: $5.95.The central mountains of the Olympi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Sub-6000m Peaks (Karakoram and Hindu Raj), Attempts and Ascents of New Routes

Sub-6000m peaks (Karakoram and Hindu Raj), attempts and ascents of new routes. On June 5 the Korean Five Peaks Expedition set off from Seoul for the Karakoram and Hindu Kush. The seven-man expedition, led by Gi-seok Seo, set out to make ascents of...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest Attempt

Everest Attempt. Annie Beghin and Véronique Périllat had hoped to climb the South Col route on Everest as a two-woman expedition. Their high point of 8500 meters was reached on October 6.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, USSR, Pik Lenin, North Face on Skis

Pik Lenin, North Face on Skis. Italians R. Cason, B. Dall’Oro and O. Fomo climbed Pik Lenin (7134 meters, 23,406 feet) by its north face on skis, reaching the summit on July 29. They then descended on skis. They made five camps above their 12,000-...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Pumori

Pumori. The expedition of the Tohan Club was composed of Tadashi Mochizuki, Tadashi Mizuno, Tadashi Nakamura, Tatsuji Shigeno, Yoshinori Kanoh, Kazuo Yamamoto, Katsuichi Kataoka, Satoshi Kimrua, Kazufumi Nagura, Nabuo Shimosaka, Hiroo Imanishi, Et...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Lhotse South Face, More on Tomo ?esen's 1990 Ascents

Lhotse South Face, More on Tomo Cesen’s 1990 Ascent. When Scott Fischer and I returned to Kathmandu after climbing Lhotse in May 1990, we were interviewed by Liz Hawley and at that time we verified that Cesen had reached the summit of Lhotse. As I...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, Improper Ice Ax Technique, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Gilkey Tower

FALL ON SNOW - UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, IMPROPER ICE AX TECHNIQUEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Gilkey TowerOn August 9 about 1300, Chris Pazder (56) fell to his death while attempting to traverse from the South Teton to Cloudveil Dome. Pazder ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Chacraraju Este

Chacraraju Este. In mid July, Masael Alvial and I made two attempts on the Bouchard-Meunier route on Chacraraju Oeste. On the first attempt, we were stopped one pitch up by weather and bad ice. The second was stopped after three pitches when we fo...


Accident Reports ANAM
Off Route, Inadequate Clothing, Exposure, Wyoming, Grand Teton

OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, EXPOSUREWyoming, Grand TetonOn August 14, Douglas Cairns (36) and Daniel Cousins (30) decided to attempt the North Ridge after having failed to find their way to the Black Ice Couloir, their original objective. They...


Notes AAJ
Discounted Peak Royalties Continue

Discounted peak royalties continue. During 2007 the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism maintained a 50 percent reduction on royalty fees for peak permits, and in November the government announced that these discounts and other concessions would continue...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Moffit, Northwest Ridge, and Mount Hayes, East Ridge

Mount Moffit, Northwest Ridge, and Mount Hayes, East Ridge. Attempts on Mount Moffit (13,020’) were becoming annual events for Randy Waitman and I. When we flew onto the Trident Glacier he was making his third attempt on the northwest ridge and I ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock While Being Lowered, Inadequate Rope Length, No Hard Hat, Misperception, Idaho, City of Rocks

FALL ON ROCK WHILE BEING LOWERED, INADEQUATE ROPE LENGTH, NO HARD HAT, MISPERCEPTION Idaho, City of RocksThe following excerpts are from, an article written by Thomas Dewell, sent by a member—but without reference to the newspaper it appeared in.)...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Cho Oyu 

Cho Oyu. Our expedition of three Belgians and two Nepalis established Base Camp and Camps I and II at 5750, 6400 and 7000 meters on July 31, August 4 and 12. We made the first summit attempt on August 13 and the second on the 18th. The third was s...


Accident Reports ANAM
Colorado, Cussing Crack, Castle Rock, near Boulder

Colorado, Cussing Crack, Castle Rock, near Boulder-—On 9 August, Jeff Wheeler (14), Jerry Roach (14) and Ed Anderson (20) were climbing on Castle Rock. Wheeler was leading on a vertical wall near the top of Castle Rock, in Boulder Canyon. He was p...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Attempts on the Kinshofer Route, Diamir Flank

Nanga Parbat Attempts on the Kinshofer Route, Diamir Flank. Aside from the expeditions noted above, there were four expeditions that failed to reach the summit. Peter Long led a group of six Scots who did not get to the top. There were two unsucce...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall Into River, British Columbia, Jasper National Park, North Boundary Trail Hike

FALL INTO RIVERBritish Columbia, Jasper National Park, North Boundary Trail HikeD.H. and S.K. (from Germany) were hiking the north boundary trail of Jasper National Park. The summer had been extremely rainy and the rivers were all in flood. On Jul...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Cordillera de los Andes, Four-legged Climber on Aconcagua

Four-legged Climber on Aconcagua. A bizarre ascent was performed by a dog of unknown pedigree in Aconcagua. This “climber” joined a group of Europeans from Laguna Horcones. He then disappeared and later joined Austrian Armin Liedl in the Berlin Hu...


Notes AAJ
Early American Ascents

Early American Ascents. In the Führerbuch of Christian Aimer, which contains extensive records of Meta Claudia Brevoort and W. A. B. Coolidge through the period from 30 July 1868 to 1 August 1884, one finds the following additional notes:Christian...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Moab Area, Various Ascents

Moab Area, Various Ascents. Kevin Chase, Tom Gilje, and Tait Rees made the first ascent of the lone tower located on the north side of Heat Wave Buttress via the route Spitting Cobra (5.12 AO). This is located off State Highway 313, nine miles nor...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, No Hard Hat, Inexperience, Washington, Mt. Rainier

FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HAT, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mt. RainierOn August 19, 1980, Doug Perry (26) was hit on the head by a large rock at 11,500 feet while descending Disappointment Cleaver. His injury was serious and he required a helicopter evacu...