Three First Ascents, Cathedral Spires Kichatna Mountains. Scott Flavelle, John Arts and I, all from Vancouver, B.C., spent from June 29 to July 31 in the Cathedral Spires. Although we had the usual bad weather that this area is noted for, we made ...
Climbs on the Southwest Face of the Fremont-Sacajciwea Ridge, Wind River Range. On June 23 Jim M. McCarthy and I climbed the wishbone arête leading up to the summit south of Sacajawea. Looking up, we took the right-hand bone to start and climbed o...
Moose’s Tooth and Barrille. After flying in on June 1, Sallie Herr, Sharon Druck, William Hillegas, Peter Carter and I spent two weeks in the Ruth Amphitheater and Great Gorge. During the first week we witnessed extreme avalanche activity and much...
EXPOSURE AND EXHAUSTION, STRANDED IN BAD WEATHER— California, Mt. Shasta. Five climbers were hit by a sudden storm on the Whitney Glacier of Mt. Shasta on February 19, 1977. Exposure and exhaustion claimed the life of Geraldine (Dina) Lombard (45)...
Cordillera Crucero-Aricoma. The Spaniards Venancio López de Ceballos, his wife Andrea Puigdoménech and Jorge Pons climbed in the Cordillera Crucero-Aricoma, due north of Lake Titicaca. They made the following first ascents, which have been given p...
Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma, New Routes. Our expedition was composed of Italian Marco Bianchi, Portuguese João Garcia, Poles Piotr Pustelnik, Mariusz Sprutta, Zbigniew Terlikowski and me as leader. In September, the weather in the Himalaya remained ...
Five New Routes in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Layton Kor made a series of new routes, all of extreme difficulty and calling for much direct aid, on the 2000-foot walls of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. On the Painted Wall route, Kor and ...
Yale Mountaineering Club. In 1951 the Club continued its program of training in rock-climbing and ice-climbing techniques, supplemented by a course in first aid and mountain rescue. There were numerous week-end trips to the Shawangunks and New Eng...
Abasraju Attempt. Rob and Peter Gilbert from Dartmouth College returned to the Cordillera Blanca, hoping to climb Abasraju, which they had previously attempted. Once again, they climbed to within a few hundred feet of the summit, the second time f...
Rakhuy Group, Kwaja Muhammad Range. A group from Munich left Warsay with a pack train on July 3 for the Rakhuy group, where they set up Base Camp on the 13th. From July 15 to August 8 they climbed 17 peaks, of which 14 were over 5000 meters (16,40...
Quitaraju, Alpamayo, Chacraraju Este. After our climbing in the Cordillera Huayhuash (see that section), Bas Grenigt had recovered considerably and together on July 14 we climbed the north face of Quitaraju. On the 17th we ascended Alpamayo’s sout...
Central Howser Tower, West Face, Chocolate Fudge Brownie. In early August, Brian Webster and I slogged over to the backside of the Howser massif to add another route to the west face of Central Howser Tower. We missed out on the first ascent of th...
Yerupajá, Northwest Ridge. Dave Wilkinson and I visited the Cordillera Huayhuash and climbed the northwest ridge of Yerupajá (21,765 feet). We reached the summit on August 13, the climb having taken us two-and-a-half days. It took a further day-an...
Ape Lake Region, Coast Range. Our group gathered at Nimpo Lake on August 4 and in three shuttles in Dick Poet’s Cessna all eight of us were placed on the shores of Ape Lake. This used to be reached in six rough days of back-packing but was now acc...
Rock routes near Huayna Potosi, 1981. Yves Astier and Olivier Mandrènes climbed four rock routes in the Huayna Potosí region from June 30 to July 7, 1981. Two of the climbs were on the south side of Khala Cruz (5240 meters, 17,192 feet), sometimes...
Seven Castles Area, Under A Winter Sky. On January 5 I soloed a four-pitch route in the Seven Castles area north of Basalt. Under A Winter Sky (III 5.9X) climbs the main chimney system on the left side of the wall. It then breaks left to gain the ...
Cerro Tórtolas, Northern Andes. The twin tips of Cerro Tórtolas (20,243 and 20,744 feet) had been suspected by local mountaineers to be an Indian sanctuary; findings previous to 1960 had produced only rock constructions. On February 21, a group of...
Yugoslav Expedition to Cordillera Real, 1964. Under the leadership of Aleksander Blazina, Alojz Golob, Martin Mihelic, Alojz Steblaj, Franc Savenc and Dr. Ivo Valic left LaPaz on July 26, 1964 for the Huayna Potosí group. (For complete details wit...
Cathedral Rock, Northeast Buttress. On September 16, Paul Bellamy and I made what we believe is the first ascent of Cathedral Rock from the vertical east side. We climbed the 900-foot northeast buttress. From the meadows southeast of the peak we t...
Peak 12,380' (Kahiltna Queen*), South Face Couloir and Distant Lights. It’s maddening how many things can go wrong in this game of ours. The weather is a tough opponent, and gets the upper hand at some point. Snow is forever fickle. Personal fitne...