Cathedral Mountains, various first ascents. From June 28 to July 18 British climbers Lindsay Griffin, Geoff Hornby, Dave Wallis, and I visited the Cathedral Mountains, a small offshoot of peaks to the west of Mt. Russell. Heart Mountain is the mai...

Climbs in the Pamirs, 1967. Soviet climbers celebrated the 50th anniversary of the Russian Revolution by holding a mass climbing camp in the Pamirs. In all, 301 climbers from U.S.S.R., Austria, Yugoslavia, East Germany, Italy, Czechoslovakia, Hung...

Tenzing, After Everest: An Autobiography by Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, as told to Malcolm Barnes. London: George Allen and Unwin, 1977.Tenzing’s second autobiography is a worthy successor to Tiger of the Snows, his first autobiography, written with Ja...

Swiss Expedition. A Swiss party under the leadership of Lorenz Saladin and composed of, in addition to the leader, Hans Graf, Walter Frei and Otto Furrer made a successful trip to the Caucasus this past summer, effecting the first ascents of Skatt...

Salcantay, Southwest Face to the East Peak. The southwest face of Sal- cantay is some 5000 feet high and had before this year not been climbed, despite several previous attempts. Our team climbed a line on the right side of the face. It was of mix...

FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONEWyoming, TetonsOn May 31, 1983, Robert Eastham (28), a moderately experienced mountaineer, signed out to climb the Skillet Glacier route on Mount Moran on June 1, returning on June 2. Because of the danger of spring ava...

The Mountaineer’s Week-End Book, by Showell Styles. 408 pages, with decorations by Thomas Beck. The Week-End Series. London: Seeley Service, 1950. Price, 12/6.This grabbag for a rucksack is of course intended for British mountaineers, but it makes...

Mount Minto, Northern Victoria Land. Mount Minto (4163 meters, 13,658 feet) is the highest point in Northern Victoria Land. It had been unsuccessfully attempted several times. Our climbing party was made up of Lincoln Hall, Jonathan Chester, Lyle ...

FALL ON ROCK, EQUIPMENT FAILURENew York, ShawangunksOn April 13, 1985, a man (43) fell ten meters while leading Ken’s Crack (5.7). He had swaged his own wire on nut and it pulled when he fell. He sustained cuts and bruises. (Source: Tom Scheuer, S...

Anyemaqen, First Ascent by Japanese, 1981. Details previously lacking of the first ascent of Anyemaqen have appeared in Iwa To Yuki N° 88. An expedition of eleven men and two women was led by Yuzo Tada. From Base Camp at 14,750 feet east of the mo...

Chacraraju Oeste, south face. In the first week of August Steve Moffat (New Zealand) and I climbed what was most likely a new route (600m, WI5 5.9 mixed) just to the right of the 1982 Yugoslav route on the south face. This side of the mountain has...

French-Italian Alps: the Dent du Géant. On 18 August 1949 a party of four Americans was climbing this peak from the Rifugio Torino in Italy. They were paired in ropes of two each. At the time of the accident, J. Graham McNear (Chicago Mountaineeri...

Peaks near Petersburg, Coast Mountains. In early July Charlie Crocker and I made what we believe are the first ascents of five summits in the Coast Mountains to the southeast of LeConte Bay. From Petersburg, these peaks may be seen to the southeas...

Oregon, Mt. Hood. On 4 May Terry Simonich (26), Linda Simonich (26), Robert Patterson (32), Terry Riddell (26), Dave Skinner (27), and Pam Skinner (24), set out to climb the WyEast route. All of the party had previous climbing experience with the ...

In late January, Peruvians Beto Pinto, Steven Fuentes, Roger Lliuya, and Darío Yucra, students of CEAM (the official mountain guiding school of Peru), made camp at Lake Paccha (4,600m), below the southwest face of Nevado Vicunita (5,550m). They ...

Nomenclature in the Huayhuash. Since the Cordillera Huayhuash was first surveyed in 1927 by the American Geographic Society expedition, confusion over peak names and heights have surfaced. In cases where confusion over peak names exist the AAJ has...

Mount Tom White, Chugach Mountains. After eight leisurely days rafting down the Copper River from Chitina, we arrived at the terminus of the Miles Glacier. On June 18, after caching our river supplies, we six, Story Clark, Sarah Robey, Don White, ...

SLIP ON ICE AND SNOW, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount JoffreOn August 6, 1989, a party of three (early 20s) was climbing ice and snow on the north face of Mount Joffre. They were roped together, using ice screws ...

Possibly the earliest mountain fatality in the United States, was that of Elisha Mitchell in 1857. While exploring the mountains of North Carolina, he was killed by a fall from a precipice. It was in his honor that Mt. Mitchell (6,711 ft.) was nam...

AAC, South Central Section. The section held its annual meeting on October 27 in Houston at the Hilton Southwest Hotel. Past chairperson J. French Hill presided over the dinner and membership meeting, which were followed by a silent auction, slide...