Bugaboos, Various Ascents. On July 6, Todd Offenbacher, Jay Sell, Bob Schultz and Nils Davis arrived at the CMH Lodge. The four of us met Paul Bingham, a British friend of Todd’s living in Vancouver, who joined us for the first four days. The grou...
Alpamayo and Tayapampa. In the first part of our expedition we attempted unsuccessfully to climb Alpamayo using the classic approach route from the Quebrada Alpamayo. The condition of the north glacier was so bad because of the lack of snow, big c...
Mount Vulcan, Kluane Ranges, St. Elias Mountains. M. E. Alford and I made what we presume to be the first ascent of Mount Vulcan (c. 9300 feet; longitude 138°29', latitude 60° 51'), highest peak of the Kluane Ranges, comprised of the abrupt scarp ...
Chearoco west face, south and north summits. Rodolfo Grispo and I climbed the west face of Chearoco (6157 meters, 20,200 feet) in June. The face consisted of 55° frozen firn of excellent quality above a large icefall. We bivouacked at the base of ...
West Temple, Full Steam Ahead. Between Gettin’ More Western and Back Where It All Begins, this route climbs 13 new 60-meter pitches to join Back Where It All Begins for a final three pitches to the summit. It was soloed on January 10, 1999, by Amm...
Cerro Capurata, Northern Andes. A light party of the Club Andino de Chile, Sección Santiago, made the first ascent of this snow volcano (19,653 feet) on the Chilean-Bolivian border. Police Captain Pedro Rosendo and Ignacio Morlans reached the top ...
Chichiccapac and Other Peaks of the Cordillera Carabaya. We arrived at Base Camp on July 4. It had taken us five days to explore the country and to find a site for Base Camp and three days to move everything into the area. A few days were spent in...
Various Climbs in the Northern Cascades. This north buttress of Amphitheater Mountain lies just east of the middle finger buttress on the broad north face. On July 20, 1983, Mike Carville and I climbed it, following a line on the right side. Obvio...
Thunder Mountain, ski descent of west face. This 2,000' face is prominent on the flight to Kahiltna Base. On April 25 Andrew McLean and I gained the upper glacier by traversing in from the west above a steep narrow icefall. After skinning across t...
On April 20, a climber fell to his death while being lowered, due to the webbing on one of the anchor’s parting and not being properly clipped in to the equalizing anchor. In the case of the webbing, it was only masking tape that connected (and hi...
Gasherbrum V. A 12-man Japanese expedition, led by Ryuichi Babaguchi, made the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (24,020 feet), but also met with tragedy. Three members of the party reached the summit on August 1. The next day Babaguchi set out alone a...
Sequoia National Park. On the Memorial Day weekend, Herb Laeger and I added another classic route, Aspire, on the magnificent 1200-foot west face of the Fin, facing Castle Rock Spire. We started 150 feet up and right of a prominent pine growing at...
The Tusk, Juneau Icefields. Because of a time limit, our mini-expedition to the northwestern portion of the Icefields was hurried by helicopter to the upper Taku Glacier. Our objective was unclimbed Tusk (c. 6700 feet), which actually towers atop ...
FALL ON ROCKColorado, Mount PowellOn September 5, 1983, Donald Thomas (30) fell 60 meters to his death in a gully while trying to rescue his dog, according to Tim Cochran, a member of the Vail Mountain Rescue Group.Cochran said search parties bega...
Barnaj 11 South and Central Peaks. Japanese from Tokyo University led by Yoisho Kubora established Base Camp at 13,125 feet and Advanced Base Camp at 15,100 feet on the glacier of the Barnaj Nala. Above Camp I the route ascended an icefall and als...
Wall Street. One air mile west of Moab is a rapidly developing new crag area known as Wall Street. It is located approximately five miles from the intersection of U.S. 191 along State 279 (the Potash Road). Easy access and magnificent scenery alon...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Storm. Point. On 21 July, Randy Charter (25) and David Dornan (29) were climbing on Storm Point. Carter was leading what looked like a moderately difficult pitch on the south face. He started to layback up a ver...
Gasherbrum V, East Peak, 1978. Details, lacking in A.A.J., 1979, have appeared in Iwa To Yuki N° 69. The Japanese party led by Ryuichi Babagushi made the first ascent of the east peak (23,300 feet) of 24,020-foot Gasherbrum V. Base Camp and Camps ...
Gasherbrum II. It took 13 days to get from Dassu to our temporary Base Camp at 16,000 feet on the Abruzzi Glacier, including two rest days, one caused by heavy snowfall at Concordia. We arrived on May 14. We had started with 60 porters but arrived...
Schweizer Masken und Mas\enbräuche, by Karl Meuli. 163 pages, with 60 full-page illustrations and a frontispiece in color. Zurich: Atlantis-Verlag, 1943. Price, $4.50.Shakespeare’s Henry IV says that death is a mask. Among primitive peoples the be...