FALL ON SNOW – UNUSUAL SLIPWashington, Mount ShuksanOn May 23, one of two clients sustained an ankle injury when the guide (29) lost his footing on the descent of Mount Shuksan. He slid down a snow slope, and pulled the clients from their stance. ...
Latok I, north ridge, attempt; Tony Tower, Releasing Bad Energy. Damian and Willie Benegas were again on the Choktoi for an attempt on the north ridge of Latok I. They arrived in base camp on July 22 and found conditions on the face to be the best...
Pingora, Southeast Face Direct, Wind River Range. In August Angus Thuermer and I roped up at the base of a very prominent left-facing dihedral on the southeast face. We followed this corner for two pitches to a large ledge on the right. From its r...
FALL ON ROCK, CAUGHT FOOT ON EDGE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Idaho, City of RocksOn August 29, 1992, Tim Mooney (24) decided to “Pink Point” a route which his partner, Paul Hodges (24), had already led. At the last bolt clip in, which he failed to make,...
AAC, North Central Section. The North Central Section is continuing to try to “get its feet” on the ground after having an open chair position for several years. The Section Web site, with its climbers’ message board and announcements of upcoming ...
Aerjinshan, Kansu. Thirteen members of a joint Japanese-Chinese expedition led by Kenji Hirasawa made the first ascent of Aerjinshan (5798 meters, 19,023 feet) on August 19 including climbing leader Yoshio Maruyama. The next day, another two got t...
Maharbani Sar. In Lo Scarpone of December 1, 1975 an account appears telling of a first ascent made by two Italians, Roberto Ive and Elio Padovan; it is not clear to the editor just where they climbed. They traveled by jeep to Munsgol and trekked ...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Only one meeting was held by the Sierra Nevada section during 1959. On March 20 an enjoyable evening was spent at the Nilsson home, where Richard Houston presented a lively account of an expedition to the Bella Coola...
Steeple Spire, Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. In June Mike Graber, Alan Long, Al Bartlett, and I returned to the Kichatnas to attempt the east face of Kichatna Spire. Our efforts were frustrated by horrendous weather with storms pinning us ...
On the third day, August 1, of a nine-day solo trip I climbed a new route on the west face of Fremont Peak. The route followed the obvious and attractive crack system in the center of the face, and involved nine pitches. A small amount of aid was ...
Huntington, East Ridge, Rooster Comb, P 11,300, Dickey, Moose’s Tooth. Our team of ten from the Portland, Oregon area began skiing in on March 29 from Mile 279 on the Alaska Railroad. Our approach route was the Hidden River and Buckskin Glacier. W...
STRANDED, FALLING ROCK, INEXPERIENCE—California, Mt. Irvine. Thomas Cowie (23) and Geoff Nutting (23) were attempting a 5.7 route on the northeast face of Mt. Irvine on August 14. They were forced to retreat because the climbing was too difficult ...
Cordillera Carabaya, 1965. In the A.A.J., 1966, 15:1, p. 181 the description of the peaks climbed by the University of Keele Expedition was incomplete. The full story appears in Cambridge Mountaineering, 1966 pages 7 to 11. A map is included.
Cho Oyu from the North in the Pre-Monsoon Season. All ascents of Cho Oyu (8201 meters, 26,906 feet) were made by the first ascent route, first climbed by the Austrian Tichy in 1954. They were 7 Taiwanese led by Liang Ming-Pen, Summit reached on Ma...
A number of new climbs have been made in the Tetons during recent years, commonly very difficult rock climbs. These will be listed from south to north.Granite Canyon, Givler’s Arête. This route, the first prominent buttress on the south side of Gr...
The Saber. From Sky Pond in Loch Vale one views the slender ridge of the Petit Grepon and to the right and east of it rises a great red corner, 1000 feet high. Dean Moore and I made its first ascent on July 13 in five hours. After climbing unroped...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The Club’s summer activities in 1951 were centered in the leaders’ climbing school, held in the Hermit Range of the southern Selkirks. In addition, an H.M.C. expedition made three first ascents in the Windy Range of th...
Aguja Nevada I, Pirányide and Other Peaks Above the Quebrada Parón. We were thirteen: Kazimierz Malczyk, leader, Michal Chwistek, Michal Kulig, Andrzej Olszewski, Ryszard Pawlowski, Adam Pietras, Maciej Stobierski, Jerzy Wewióra, Stanislaw Wylezal...
Polish Wakhan Expedition, 1963. Under the leadership of Andrzej Wilczkowski, a group of Poles climbed in the Wakhan. On September 22, M. Gryczynski, B. Mac, A. Tikarski and Warteresiewicz made the third ascent of Kishmi Khan (c. 23,600 feet) and t...
Alpamayo, Southeast Face, 1979. In the first week of July, 1979 Dave Jenkins and I climbed up the glacier at the foot of the southeast face of Alpamayo. We found 500 feet of fixed rope near the base of the face left a month before by Yugoslavs, wh...