Volcano Llanin, Lake District. Two Italians, Enzio Mazzoldi and Giovanni Wiese made the first ascent of the formidable south face of the Volcán Llanin (12,388 feet) on the Chilean-Argentine border on February 19-21, 1955. The face had been previou...
Winter Traverse of Teewinot, Owen and the Grand Teton. From January 30 to February 2, Gary Wilmot, Greg Collins and I traversed these three peaks. Starting at three A.M., we climbed Teewinot by its southeast ridge and camped in a snow cave on East...
FALL ON SNOW/ICE, UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Purcell Mountains, Vowell GroupOn August 1, 1990, two climbers were descending snow and ice unroped, about 50 meters below the summit of Peak 9250 (north of Little Howser) when one of them slipped on loos...
Parbati Valley. Snow lay so deep last spring that the Yorkshire Himalayan Expedition on April 26 established its base camp only at Pulga. Thence they attempted to penetrate the upper Parbati, Tos, and Tichu valleys, but deep snow and bad weather t...
Manaslu Attempt. A six-man British team led by Mark Dixon attempted the southwest face of Manaslu. They gave up on October 20, after reaching 7000 meters.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavanta, India
Chacraraju, East Ridge Attempt. A Yugoslavian expedition of the Akademsko Planinsko Drustvo of Ljubljana was led by Aleksander Blazina. On July 4 Igor Golli died after falling 1300 feet down the south face of Chacraraju when he was pulled from his...
The Colorado Mountain Club. During 1983 The Colorado Mountain Club grew to over 7500 members, added a fourteenth Colorado group (Glenwood Springs), and conducted more than 2200 trips throughout Colorado. The club also conducted a number of outings...
Adi Kailash Range, first ascents and an attempt on Adi Kailash. A joint Indo-British expedition led by Martin Moran explored the Adi Kailash mountain range of Eastern Kumaon in Sept-Oct. No previous climbing had been recorded in this area, which l...
Panch Chuli II. A 24-man expedition of the Indian Army Kumaon and Naga Regiments was led by Lieutenant Suraj Bhan Dalai. In the post-monsoon, they climbed Panch Chuli II (6904 meters, 22,650 feet) from the east, which is said to be more difficult ...
Trango Monk, first ascent; Peak 4,700m (Garda Peak), first ascent, Karakoram Khush; Nameless Tower, Eternal Flame, alpine-style ascent; rock routes in valley. From August 2 through September 28, Klemen Mali, Miha Valic, and I, all from Slovenia, c...
Nampa South or Rokapi. In the pre-monsoon season we made an attempt on this unclimbed summit of 22,408 feet in the far northwest of Nepal. We were John Barron, Bob Junkison, Tom Leppert, Barry Smith and I. We chose the mountain for its remote posi...
Everest, Age Record and Himalayan Kingdoms Expedition. Our international post-monsoon Himalayan Kingdoms Expedition via the South Col was led by Britons Stephen Bell assisted by Roger Mear and Martin Barnicott. On October 7, Britons Bell, Ginette ...
SLIDE INTO STEAM VENTWashington, Mount RainierOn May 24th, a climbing guide (age unknown) near the summit of Mount Rainier slid into a steam vent and fell 15 to 20 feet. Climbers with her reported that she had injured ribs on her left side, was ex...
Latok V, first ascent; Latok II, south ridge, first alpine-style ascent. Doug Chabot, Mark Richey, and I arrived at base camp on the Baintha Lukpar Glacier on July 28, with the intent of climbing the west face of Latok III. We arrived at the end o...
Ridge West From Wind River Peak. Woody Stark and I in the first week of August traversed the ridge that extends west from Wind River Peak towards East Temple; it consists of six spires. The first spire right off the shoulder of Wind River Peak was...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESMissouri, Kansas City, Cliff DriveCliff Drive is a limestone crag near downtown Kansas City, Missouri. There are six to 12 routes of varying difficulty. I was climbing with friends on Oc...
AAC, New York Section. The new millennium began inauspiciously. Unseasonably warm weather in early January threatened to make our 15th Annual Winter Outing a total washout. Miraculously, a quick succession of winter storms changed all that, and by...
Kongur, Northwest Ridge. The expedition was composed of climbing leader Etsuro Yasuda, Tateshi Sudo, Hideo Muto, Junjiro Hori, Yukihiro Enomoto, Chiharu Yoshimura, Kazuhiro Nakato, Shogo Takahashi, Kouichi Tomoda, T. Shimuzu, Sadao Matsuda and me ...
Garmush. The Austrian Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Peter Baumgartner and comprised his wife Lilo, Karl Mahrer, Dr. Franz Österreicher and Rudi Brandstötter. They flew to Gilgit, took a jeep to Yashin and donkeys to Darkot and went with 22 port...
Alaska Alpine Club. In April a six-man party reached the summit of Mount Silvertip (9500 feet) at the eastern end of the Alaska Range after climbing a 100-foot pinnacle of rime ice at the top. We believe that this was the second complete ascent of...